After some conversation with Diesel-Lover and others on this forum I thought I would try to start a thread concerning breakdowns on the road. We try to prevent this by good maintenance and driving reasonably but it can still happen. As I observed in a previous post, on a roughly 350 mile northbound drive on I-75 I saw 4 class A MH broken down. All were southbound.
If we should have a breakdown and would post the following information on this thread it could be a resource and reminder for others.
RV particulars:
Driveline (Engine, Transmission):
Miles:
Year:
Break Down Description: (You can add any description of the problem here that you think would help others in understanding the situation and problem.)
Symptoms:
Effect:
Cause:
Outcome:
This is the type of information that is recorded in the aircraft industry and other maintenance activities to track failure trends. It will take a while before we see a lot of value in this. If it continues for a time and sufficient data is available, I will analyze the data and put it into a form that I can send by email to any interested parties. I would suspect that an initial report could be done in about three months or when we have about 100 to 150 cases.
What do you think?
* This post was last edited 02/07/08 04:35pm by an administrator/moderator *
"No one can guarantee success, only effort."
Bob & Fran
2005 Coachmen Sportscoach Elite 40 ft DP
2012 Chevy Malibu
Ready Brute Tow Bar
Ready Brake Tow Brake
FMCA F324606
Most gas engine breaksowns are overheating including vporlock or electrical.
Biggest cause for breakdown is flat tires.
Richard and Babs and a Bob Tail Cat
97 Beaver Patriot 40 Kitchen Slide
330 HP Member FMCA, BAC, Good Sam, CAT RV Club
Toad 2012 Dodge Durango RT AWD Hemi
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): 325 C8.3, Alison md3060
Miles: 58,000
Year: 1998
Break Down Description:
Symptoms: No air
Effect: cant drive
Cause: Governor
Outcome: Replaced governor
I had the rig loaded up wife in her seat with the wiener dogs opened the gates started the motor up and the air pressure wouldnt come up. Walked in circles for a minute and thought hey Ill call my friend Louie; hes a diesel mechanic and only works a block from my house. Called him up told him my problem and he says Ill be there in 5 minutes. Well Louie showed up looked at the motor and diagnosed my problem to be the governor. He said here take off these three air lines and these two nuts and Ill be back in 5 minutes. He came back in 5 minutes and handed me a part and said here put this where you took the other one off, wait for the air to come up to 120 p.s.i. and adjust the pressure with the screw in the back. I did and it worked fine.
* This post was edited 07/28/05 08:00am by denarmstrng *
1998 Holiday Rambler Imperial 40 WDS
Dennis and Jelly and 2 red headed Mini-Rottweilers aka Wiener Dogs
I hope my luck continues, because we make two trips 'cross country per year.
Thanks
JohnnyT
2004 40DS02 Travel Supreme ISL 400
Jeep Grand Cherokee
M&G Brake & Break Away
Blue Ox Aventa LX Tow bar
Last August when we were north bound on I-39 somewhere between Bloomington, Ill. and Rockford, Ill. I went over a bump in the road caused by road construction.
All of a sudden my coach had no power. No electrical, no transmission, no engine, no nothing. I managed to coast to the side of the road and their we sat. When I turned my ignitions switch, to attempt to start the coach, nothing happened. I waited a few minutes and tried again and it started only to stop running again. I then went and looked into the battery compartment to see if maybe a battery had came loose and was shorting out against something but they were okay.
I then went back and attempted to start the coach and it started right up. It kept running so we headed out and made it back to Stevens Point, Wisconsin without further incident.
I took the coach up to my dealer who looked the coach over from front to back but they couldn't find a thing wrong with it. So, somewhere in my coach I have a problem waiting to jump out and bite me and there's nothing I can do to prevent it. Scary ain't it.
Lil Truckr
'08 GMC 4X4 2500HD
'08 Cougar 28' Fiver.
Perfect for me, the wife and our three cats.
Those who are too smart to engage in politics are punished by being governed by those who are dumber. ~Plato!
Note to Lil Trucker:
From the description of you post it sounds like a loose wire on the hot side to the ignition switch. The bump caused it to break connection and after some fiddeling with things contact was made again. Try checking all screws and especially the plugs that connect the harnesses together. Good luck.
Bill & CJ
'99 CC Allure
Enjoying it while we can!
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): 8.2 Detroit
Miles: 80k
Year: 90
Break Down Description: Shut off for lunch & wouldn't start
Symptoms: Runs good but wouldn't start
Effect:
Cause: Fuel solenoid contacts not making
Outcome: Replaced fuel solenoid, it turns out that the contacts in the solenoid can be cleaned and the solenoid re-used. it takes a 1/4" allen wrench to remove it, and it is found on the side of the governor.
* This post was last edited 12/11/03 12:49am by big dave *
Dave & Rose C
90 Safari Ivory 34' DP
04 Saturn VUE V6
First New Year's Day 1999 in the Lower Keys went to start and air had gotten into fuel delivery system when we tried to start in campground. Service done Jan 2 through RV Road Help Sign and Drive
Two Front tire catastrofic tire failures:
First North of Tampa 32000 miles on tire no spare and ruined Al Rim. Olsen Truck Tire whom we had purchased six tires from refused to do road service because we did not have corporate account. Olin Mott Tires brought tire and found rim and were very helpful. Tire maker was very generous in adjustment and damages caused to coach. Was (not a Michelin tire) and Olson Firestone are never getting any more of our business (think now Service Plus or something like that now) Olin Mott has and will continue to get our business.
Second Tire East of Jacksoville, wheel was usuable but scared again no new tire dealer was as nice as Olin Mott, Tampa and FHP called provider who required cash and sold us a used square tire for $100 plus service. After promising to refund tire cost if I left it at a new tire dealer and after writing the FHP (a month later) he sent me a money order and a thankyou note expressing thanks for me getting the FHP to remind him to send me a refund. Again the tire maker (who we cannot name because we agreed not to tell the name as part of settlement) stood up and took care of the damages.
Sorry not in specific order requested but I do not care what grade you give me.
Make Fleetwood Bounder
Yr. 87
Symptoms: wouldn't start sometimes.
effect: just wouldn't start
cause: relay under the dog house
outcome: replaced relay starts fine.
John and Nancy Bradley
87 Bounder 34'(ANGEL)
John and Nancy Bradley
87 Bounder 34'(ANGEL)
If you find several days that I do not chime in, it is because I am on business travel and sometimes do not have internet access if I am traveling international.
Ford 460(trans-unsure)
29000 +/-
96 Alegro Bus
Bob/Marlene and Crystal(Golden Retriever)and sometimes Grandkids....
37' Alllego Bay
dirts for racing/asphalt's for getting there
Ken & Jo Ann 1997 Monaco Windsor
FMCA 188386, 1995 Nissan Pick-up toad
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): Cummins 8.3 TI 250HP, 6 spd Allison MD3060
Miles:58000
Year:2003
Break Down Description: Catastrophic failure of left front wheel bearing while doing 65 mph, 300 miles after I had paid a F. L. dealer to repack them both sides
Symptoms: Felt like a blow out and that I was riding on the rim
Effect: came very close to losing control
Cause: some ?@$*^!! idiot not doing the job correctly
Outcome: Had to have spindle, hub, bearings replaced. Keep both hands on the wheel now at all times, except when stopped. I will now provide service centers with manufacturer's service info (procedures, torques, etc) when having work this done. I will get service facility to write exactly what they did, so I will have documentation.
Vehicle still very new, near Palmdale, CA.
Hit a DIP in the road, after which the front end bottomed.
An 8-inch arm had come loose from the anti-dive air valve.
Held on by a flimsy grommet; happened 3 more times over 2 years, but I recognized it each time immediately. East to put back on, inboard of the right front wheel.
Same trip, the fuel gauge went to "0" in the middle of that desert, 100+ degrees. Kept on truckin'. Started the genset, which ran longer than a minute, telling me the fuel tank/quantity was OK.
Next engine start fuel read OK, one air tank read low.
It was a CADC or something like that---other indications were low oil pressure. Always something different, till I got to Freightliner.
They overnighted one in, no charge. Happened again a year later.
Again, overnighted and replaced at no charge.
2003 Imperial, 400 Cummins ISL; '96 Town & Country. Full-timer and loving it.
RV particulars: Sportscoach lll
Driveline Chevy 454 turbo 400
Miles:75,000
Year:1986
Break Down Description: Engine Fire
Symptoms: Engine Temp Gauge went to zero, about 15 miles from Menomee,MI about 10 miles from town heard "whoossing sound" then when we entered town and stopped at first traffic lite, front of coach was covered up with Smoke & Steam
Effect: Engine fire burned wires and vacuum lines on top of engine, carb damaged.Replaced hose section, added water to radiator and drove to a city owned CG.
Cause: Heater return hose at engine block ruptured and sprayed a fine mist of engine coolant onto top of engine. Fire started when we stopped at traffic lite. Until that point coolant had vaporized with airflow, but with no airflow when stopped exhaust manifold heat ignited anti-freeze.
Outcome: Replaced all hoses & lines on top of engine , replaced carburator, replaced several electrical comnnectors, replaced charcoal canister (fire travelled down hose and blew out bottom of canister) Replaced # 6 & 8 spark plug wires. Insurance job, but we spent 11 days in MI waiting fire inspector and Chevy Dealer to fix it.
Strudle
86 Sportscoach lll
Bilsteins
Safe T Plus
Bridgestones
Driveline Cummins 275 Allison 6-spd
Miles: 37000
Year:1999 Coachmen Sportscoach
Break Down Description: Driving west on I-10, 150 miles from Houston. Engine overheating. Coolant level fine. Slowed to 60 m.p.h. and stopped dash a/c. Made it to California to a Cummins dealer. Split exhaust manifold. Turbo shot. Hole in turbo exhaust pipe. Engine side of radiator blocked with gunk because Freightliiner does not install the road exhaust tube to prevent oil blow-by after moving the radiator to the rear of the engine. Total cost to me: $4300 out-of-pocket. Story gets better as I am headed home (Florida). Bottom line: $7300 from me, zero from extended warranty or Cummins.
Symptoms: Overheating
Effect:
Cause:
Outcome
Retired SMCM(MDV) USN 30 years
3 'Nam Tours
As of 11/04 Full-Timing with:
2003 Gulfstream Friendship, Quad slide
1 lovely wife
and 1 sassy Bichon
JDelauter@aol.com
This is the second thing that I am hoping we can do with this thread if it goes well. If we can start to collect enough data that we can see trends, then my future plans are to contact the manufacturer(s) concerned and share the data with them. Hopefully, they can make sometimes small changes that will prevent further recurrance and maybe we will find some cheap fixes for those of us who have units now. I have already been successful in one instance with one manufacturer. All that was required was the changing of how some wiring was connected, no additional cost to the manufacturer other than changing some drawings and an assembly instruction.
This gives me something to do that is productive as I try to wind down my consulting business (not computers or related to the RV business) and have more time available. I have started setting up a database but that is not easy if I want to be able to search out specific problems later.
Please keep the information coming.
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): Cummins 5.9, Allison 4 spd
Miles:58,000
Year:1993
Break Down Description: (You can add any description of the problem here that you think would help others in understanding the situation and problem.)
Symptoms: Engine wouldn't start after overnight stay
Effect: No start condition
Cause: Mis-adjusted shift linkage
Outcome: started normally when shifter moved to neutral position. Readjusted linkage after reaching destination. Problem solved.
wile e
Test pilot for Acme products
'93 Southwind DP, Oshkosh Chassis
5.9 190 hp Cummins, 4 spd Allison
Driveline: GM 8.1L W/4L80E Transmission
Miles: 16K+
Year: 2002
Breakdown description: Stopped at rest area on I90 near Bule Earth, Mn to eat lunch. When we were ready to leave the MH would not start.
Symptom: With key turned to start position nothing would happen.
Effect: Had MH towed to authorized WorkHorse service center in Truman, Mn.
Cause: Ignition switch had melted, no other problem found.
Outcome: Ignition switch replaced, continued on trip.
2002 Winnebago Brave 30W 8.1L
TOADS: 2004 Jeep Liberty, 2010 Toyota Corolla
Brazels Ultra Power Mod(CAI,ECM,Aero Turbine Mufflers,Plugs & Wires)
Rear Trac Bar,Safe-T-Plus,UltraTrac Bellcrank
Park Brake Upgrade Kit
Good Sam Lifetime Member
FMCA F277504
RV particulars:
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): Cummins 5.9, Allison 4 spd
Miles:58,000
Year:1993
Break Down Description: (You can add any description of the problem here that you think would help others in understanding the situation and problem.)
Symptoms: Engine wouldn't start after overnight stay
Effect: No start condition
Cause: Mis-adjusted shift linkage
Outcome: started normally when shifter moved to neutral position. Readjusted linkage after reaching destination. Problem solved.
wile e
I have exact same setup('93)/Cummins 5.9/Allison 4-spd) and ran into the exact same problem. This had happened while I was tying up the island at busy gas station. I was losing popularity quick! Luckily, I had experienced this problem before with a beat up Oldsmobile in high school and knew what the problem was. It was still un-nerving.
I now push the stick into FIRMLY into Park so that the neutral saftey switch doesn't prevent the engine from starting.
'93 Itasca Suncrusier diesel towing a '05 Honda CR-V.
Bob, Pam(DW), Bridget(DD) and Christine(DD)
See you at most of the Penn State tailgates
Symptom: MH hard to start, starter solenoid would click but starter would not turn engine over. Sounded like a low battery. After 3 to 5 clicks engine would turn over and start. Decided to wait until it completely quit before I had it fixed. Lasted all the way from somewhere in Indiana to Oregon. I pulled into the driveway to unload, then backed out in the street, turned around to back into the drive so I could dump the holding tanks. Finished with that and started to move the MH again and nothing happened.
Effect: Called WorkHorse again. They sent a tow truck and had it towed to Valley RV, just outside McMinnville, Or.
Cause: Melted ign sw again. This time they also found that the neutral safety sw was bad, causing the ign sw to get hot.
Outcome: Ign sw and neutral safety sw replaced. Hope this is the end of this problem.
Horst
Almost everything in life is negotiable!
Horst and Hertha
WB8YRY
68/68 years young
2003 Phaeton 38GH
Toad: '03 4x4 Chevy TrailBlazer
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): Cummins 5.9, Allison 5 spd
Miles: 16,993
Year: 2001
Break Down Description: (You can add any description of the problem here that you think would help others in understanding the situation and problem.)
Symptoms: Engine wouldn't start after refueling. Dash lights work, key switch works, starter motor nothing (no sound, no turn, nothing). Batteries fully charged, everything else working normally.
Effect: Engine will not start, towed to Frieghtliner...
Cause: Bad starter motor
Outcome: Starter replaced, now starts normally. Problem solved!!
George & Laraine
Nashua, NH
2002 Journey DP, Freightliner Chassis, Cat 330
2003 Jeep Liberty
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): Chevy 8.1L, Allison 1000
Miles: 20,155
Year: 2002
Break Down Description: (You can add any description of the problem here that you think would help others in understanding the situation and problem.)
Symptoms: RV began pulling to the right. We could smell what we thought was a burning electrical odor. When the brakes were applied, the MH pulled sharply to the left
Effect: We pulled off of the road at the earliest opportunity and called our road service (Coach-net) We advised not to drive further. (We were told later, that a wheel fire has resulted from similar incidence.)
Cause: Poorly designed brakes system. This Bosch ZOTS system, manufactured prior to October 2001, was used by many MH chassis manufacturers. I understand that an International chassis with this system was used on some school buses.
Outcome: Although only the brakes on one wheel locked up, the calipers, slides, and pads were replaced on all wheels. New pin kits were used. The right-front rotor was replaced.
Here is a link to a discussion of a National Highway Transportation Safety Administration investigation of these brakes.
Workhorse brake problems and NHSTA
Tom
2008 Journey 37H
2006 CR-V toad
Have you seen the RV.Net Blogs? You can subscribe at Blog.RV.Net
outhwind 32-KDriveline (Engine, Transmission):454-4bbl
Miles:48000
Year:1989
Break Down Description: (You can add any description of the problem here that you think would help others in understanding the situation and problem.)
Symptoms: engine popping and backfireing under load,( going uphill)
Effect: a pulsation feel in the coach and a popping sound while driving up some grades. Cause:never really found out. I did change all the plugs & wires, cap,rotor,ignition control module
Outcome:This did work for a while but the problem came back after about 2 to 3,000 miles. Also I did replace burned out #8 plug wire twice during this problem time frame. Traded in the coach with 52,000 miles
2001 suncrusier, 32-v, Ford V10, 4 Koni FSD, dinning slide, No leaks, 1 wife, 1 westie, life is good! 03 malibu toad sometimes, roadmaster brake pro,roadmaster Blackhawk all terrain tow bar!
Driveline (Engine, Transmission):Triton V-10, 4 speed with OD
Miles:7580
Year:2001. Break Down Description: (You can add any description of the problem here that you think would help others in understanding the situation and problem.)
Symptoms:In heavy rain the engine would misfire and the check engine light came on. I pulled over 3 times under bridges and drained the breather element and filter, full of water.
Effect
ater ingestion through the air intake Cause
oorly designed air intake system. Ford TSB (tecnicle service bulletin) Outcome:Took her to the ford delership and they installed a plastic shroud around the air intake opening, no charge. They also checked out the air sensor and said it was OK. My check engine light rests itself after 3 engine cycles. Cold start, reach operation temp, shut down,cool down, do again.
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): W22 w/ Alison 8.1
Miles: 8,000
Year: 2003
Break Down Description: Key will not turn in ignition, unable to shift gears while parked
Symptoms: Cannot turn key - cannot move vehicle
Effect: Total lock up of steering wheel and ignition
Cause: loose fuse
Outcome: After being towed 200 miles, fuse was reseated and all worked fine after that.
I pulled into a gas station and turned off the engine to fill the tank with gas. When I went to restart the engine, the key would not move. The gearshift lever was locked solid. The steering wheel was locked solid. Was under Warranty by Workhorse so called for repairs. They towed me 200 miles (back from where I had come from) to nearest W repair facility. Spent the night at the repair facility and next morning repairman came out and checked fuses under the hood AND under the dash by left foot. One fuse was loose (in box by foot). Pushed it in and everything worked perfectly. Resumed trip with no problems.
Very expensive fuse....tow bill alone was $1500....paid by Workhorse.
Shadow
Shadow
2003 Cedar Creek 5th wheel 36RLTS
Miss Ellie's RV Park -resident manager
Miles: 36,000
Year: 1994 Pace Arrow
Symptoms: Lost all power
Effect: Would run at idle only, just able to pull to side of road
since we were going up a long hill
Cause: Throddlecable broke
Outcome: Was towed to a campground in Bullhead City, AR. It was
Saturday and nothing open so waited until Monday, went to
Napa. They found one and had it the next morning. I
installed the cable and was back on the road by 11am.
Jim
2003 Beaver Monterey 40
Cummins 350 ISC
2005 Saturn Vue
Blue Ox
Brake Buddy
King Dome IN Motion
DVR
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): Ford 460, E40D transmission
Miles: 32,000
Year: 1994
Break Down Description: (2002) Engine stalled on warm day at St. Charles, MO
Symptoms: engine popping and backfiring, no power.
Effect: Engine hot and stalled - symptom was like vapor lock.
Outcome: Let engine cool. Engine then started and made it to RV park (Sundermier). Stayed a few days, checked all fluids, changed fuel filter on frame rail. Continued trip. Would run ok as long as we were at highway speeds. Would stall sometimes when pulling off to fuel. Managed to get home a week later after a stop in Wyoming. We had the thermostat changed there, but no help. I had ordered a full Banks system before leaving for trip. During subsequent installation, found radiator plastic tank seal broken. Replaced radiator. Also, several exhaust manifold bolts broken, causing excessive heat in the engine area. Probably causing vapor lock problems. Replaced one head with broken manifold flange, had all valves replaced on both heads, water pump, hoses, fan clutch, etc. Changed all fluids to synthetic, added B & M extra capacity transmission pan and transmission temperature gauge. No problems in 2003 traveling over 8500 miles. Preventative maintenance before 2004 trip: Replace in-tank fuel pump known for early failure.
2009 Tiffin 43QBP Allegro Bus
RoadMaster Sterling Tow Bar
US Gear UTB
Ford Explorer Sport Toad
"Pisqually" the attack kitty
Driveline (454 GM w/ 4L80E 4-speed
Miles: 16,000
Year: 1997
Break Down Description: Would not start after stopping to dump.
Symptoms: Turned Key to start but nothing
Effect: Setting at the dump station blocking traffic. Was able to start engine with aux battery switch. Drove home.
Cause: corrosion on battery cable connector
Outcome: Had battery checked at auto-store for capacity. Checked
okay, cleaned battery cables and posts real good. No problem since.
Bob Bowers
Transmission 3000 six speed
RV 1994 Monaco Dynasty
Was driving on Highway 54 in Oklahoma, by Guyman. It was raining, and all of a sudden thought I had a blow out in the rear tire. Lost all air pressure and steering. What had happened was the sewer hose which was in a PV pipe. The rear cap came out, and the hose wrapped around the drive line. It cut all air hoses, and hydraulic lines. The road hardly any shoulder. Of course, all air bags lost air, emegency brake came on. Called Monaco, they said it was road hazard, ha. Anyway was towed into Guyman, and was three days getting back on the road. Have since moved sewer hose. If anyone has a sewer hose back there move it. Larry
1. 260 Cummins 5.9 engine Spartan Summit Chassis
Allison five speed
10100 miles
2001 Travel Supreme
Sympton: temp gauge starting increasing when we were leaving early one morning from traveling in the mountains. Engine shut down. Re-started and same thing happened. Finally started third time and with a highway patrol escort got one mile to safe place to park before shut off again. Saturday late we finally got a tow truck recomeded by Cummins and towed us 30 miles across mountain to Spartan Chassis Approved repair facility. A word of caution here, be sure the tow company has a vehicle that tows motor homes!
Cause: It took Repair shop one month to determine it was a broken serpintine belt! They replaced it and Cummins recomended we take to their facility and have checked out and they determined it was from a defective idler which they replaced. I carry a spare serpintine belt now.
2. Same motor home with 21,350 miles.
Sympton: While taking pleasure ride with mother in law we smelled diesel fuel. We were near an exit and pulled over. Looked underneath and diesel fuel gusshing out. Shut engine off and tried to locat a Cummins or Spartan Repair shop late on Sunday. You guessed it , no luck and cell phone about to go dead. Luck had it we located a RV technican that services the busses for Clemson University.
Cause. One of the fuel lines had worked loose and was almost impossiable to get to. Finally got tightend enough to get to his shop and spend most of eveining trying to fix. Fixed to where we could get on highway. Called Cummins first thing next day and took to their faciliy where they did a through job tighting all lines and steam cleaning engine. You should have smelt the diesel. Everything fine now.
Tried to keep these descriptions to the minimum, just the high lights of the story and to advise if you have a problem withCummins/Spartan look for Cummins first because my experience with Spartans auth repair facility have not been good.
Nathan & Becky Smith
2014 Allegro Open Road 31SA
2008 Saturn
Cat. 3126
Allison
22,000 miles
Alternator needle started going "down"
After awhile, engine was running, but shifting was getting erratic
Cause was a failing Leece Neville alternator
Freightliner dealer in Waco Tx. got us in immediately, diagnosed the problem, & ordered the new alternator. It came air freight, & we were on our way late the next day. Freightliner & Leece Neville declined to cover cost as "it is out of warranty".It was because of the age, by about 4 months, but still only 22,000 miles.
My second was the familiar "zipper" blow out on the Michelin tire. It happened on an interstate, cool temps, not even close to overload, at about 25,000 miles.
Tony & Cam
1999 Tradewinds 7371
2001 Cherokee
Driveline: GM 8.1 4L80E transmission
Miles: 8,000
Year: 2001
Break Down Description: Cruise Control shutting itself off
Symptoms: Slow down.
Effect: Just like you press the brake or turn off the Cruise switch.
Outcome: Problem was a manufacturer defect. Something to do with a resistance wire in the harness to the brake lights. The Cruise Control was sensing this as the brake lights coming on so would shut itself off. Took two tries at the dealer and calls to Workhorse to take care of a fix.
Cummins 5.9 Allison 5 sp
National Carribean - Spartan Chassis
Mileage 18,000
Electronics
Left home (One mile) start getting electrical fault code which clears
Decide to stop by Cummins Mid- South since it is on my route.
Fault code comes and goes during 60 mile drive.
Finally three miles from Cummins, code stays on and power drops to 50 percent. Limp into Cummins.
They run pc on system finding faulty Crank Shaft Position Sensor.
Replaced and on road in couple of hours, also replaced oil sending unit.
Mileage 24,000
Trip West
Fuel system
Leaving Yellowstone - noticed engine cranked longer than normal.
Engine cranked longer on each of three successive stops
Could not find reason but have had a history of loosing fuel pressure.
Make it to son's in Washington and shut off before going to his rv hookup. Decide to move to hookup. Engine cranked but would not fire, test of fuel pressure was very low at injectors but within specs at fuel pump. Unit was towed (another learning exprience)to Eagle Freightliner where some water was pumped from fuel tank (thought to be the cause)Actual cause was a faulty VP 44 fuel injector pump which Cummins replaced. No other serious problems at 32,000 miles.
Whaler
* This post was edited 12/17/03 05:30pm by Whaler *
Ford 460
In-tank fuel pump failure [common happening with Fords]
Fix: Ford dealer wanted to empty fuel and drop tank [about $500]. Thinking this will happen again sooner or later, I ordered them to install an inline aftermarket pump in the fuel line close to the tank and mount it on the frame rail. Works fine. Sucks fuel thru bad pump in tank and sends on to the high pressure pump.
8.3 Cummins 325 HP
Gillig chassis
King Controls cuise failure
replaced 2 boards before discovering reason. The boards have a stepper motor with a cable wind-up pulley. The pulley on each board came loose on the shaft because the two throttle return springs were way too strong.
bought new springs with proper tension at hardware store. No more problems. Don't know who to blame, CC, Cummins or Gillig.
Another time
Lost power but engine would still idle. When opening throttle, black smoke poured out of the exhaust.
Pacbrake was stuck closed. Let it cool about 15 mins., unstuck and went on with pbrake turned off.
adjusted butterfly stop screw 1/2 turn out to keep butterfly from closing so tightly. No more problem.
One more time
Noise coming from rear while descending a long grade. Sounded like maybe a u-joint failing and got louder and louder.
Hose from pacbrake solenoid was routed too close to the exhaust manifold and burnt thru resulting in lost air. Compressor couldn't keep up and the air suspension was allowing the coach to lower itself down onto the tires. Right rear outside tire was rubbing first and got worse as we went.
Turned off pacbrake and pressure came back up. Replace hose at next campground. Took old one to hose place and had new one made
Note: Due to invalid formatting, all formatting has been ignored.
Same motorhome was backing into a tight spot when we heard a "POW" and the front end dropped down. Later found there was no stop on the steering which allowed the wheel to turn far enough that the wheel weight popped the air bag. Even though it was out of warranty Spartan paid for everything including installing a stop so it couldn't happen again.
2004 Dodge Ram 2500 Diesel
2004 Challenger 32TKB 5th wheel with 3 slides.
If every malfunction is fair game, I will share a few horror stories with you.
Lets try this, if the malfunction was drive train related or one that could have caused a breakdown then post it. I guess that I had not thought it through that completely.
The idea is to cover those things that are chassis/drive train/suspension related that could cause a motorhomer problems on the road and interrupt a trip. Hope to make it a knowledge base for all of us.
DSDP 38'
Driveline 3124 CAT
300 HP Alison 3060
Mileage: 63000
Breakdown description: Pulling into a rest stop, shut engine off. About 40 minutes later, while pulling out of rest stop, pouring the coals to the MH to get out into traffice,lost all power, big back fire. Check engine light came on and a couple more lights came on for an instant. Then power came back, but it was scary out there. If I take off slow, it's okay, but dangerous.
Outcome: Primary fuel filter fuel line that goes to engine has very soft rubber - it goes over the engine computer on its way to the engine. Power cables coming from battery compartment go over the fuel line and smashes it almost flat. Solution: Rerouted fuel line - so far, so good.
al
1. On May 1, 2001, day of delivery, at 1500 miles, we were headed home to Austin from Buda, Texas (dealer's location.) Both a warning light and stop light came on on the dash. We exited onto service road and took a chance of stopping the rig. We had our cell phone (we are never without it on the road) and called the service manager. He said to turn off the ignition and turn it back on. We did, and the stop light went away but the warning light stayed on. On his advice, we drove to our home and then called to tell him that we made it safely,. He sent a tow truck (first truck could not do the job - stinger too short so another tow truck had to be called.)
Rig towed to Freightliner Deisel, who said the oil sensor had to be replaced.
In latter part of May, about 3,000 miles. we left Austin for Lubbock, Texas, The warning light came on within 50 miles. The only effect this had was that the cruise control would not stay set. When we could stop, we turned the ignition off, then restarted the engine, and the cruise wold set again.
When we got to Lubbock, we took it to the Freightliner Deisel there, and it was diagnosed with "low voltage" , but I could not talk to a service person about what remedy was taken. We left Lubbock for Arlington, Texas, and again within 25-50 miles the warning light came back on. We drove to Arlington, then back to Austin. We returned the rig to the dealer and it was driven by tthe dealer to the Cummins facility in San Antonio. It stayed there two weeks, while Cummins, Monaco, and Roadmaster collaborated about the problem and a fix. We got it back and everything was ok. Just recently Monaco told us that the original alterrnator had to be replaced.,
2. January , 2002, north of Phoenix on way to Las Vegas, the ÅBS light came on. We stopped and called Monaco, and were told that it was ok to driive. We drove to Las Vegas, then to Yuma, Arizona, then back to Austin. Freightline Diesel replaced the brake sensor on the right rear wheel.
3, September 2003. Tried to start engine, but would not start (even crank).
Mobile mechanic replaced starter.
4. Returning from Camping World in New Braunfels, Texas, the ABS light came on., Upon returning home, I checked and found the sensor for the right rear wheel danging loose from its receptacle. It was charred and badly burned. I found out later that there is an unannounced recall on the entire braking system for 2000 Holiday Rambler Ambassadors. Try the National Highway Transportation Safety Agencies webssite and you will find that this recall was issued in October, 2002. Apparently Monaco and Bosch Brakes dispute who is responsible.
3. November 2003. 27,000 miles. Returning from trip to Ames, Iowa, alternator light came on faintly, tachometer needle was erratic instead of steady, cruise resume function operated intermittently and idle adjustment switch stopped working.
Freightliner diesel replaced alternator, after conferring with Monaco to get the right one. At this time, we were told that the altelrnator replacement in San Antonio was the wrong altermator. After the recent replacement, everything works except the tach. It does not work at all. Monaco faxed a schematic to Freightliner, but the mechanic first said it was too fine detail to read, but later said it showed two big wires and two small wires from alternator, but that there are really three small wires, and that the charge system will not work unless all are connected..
I sent a letteer to Monaco and asked what to do next.
The most serious situation is the unannounced recall on the brakes. Monaco has agreed to reimburse the cost of the second replacement of the ABS sensor, even though the rig is not under warranty. We do have an extended warramty, but not with Monaco.
Complete ignition failure....
Result: Ignition Switch and burnt wires @ 11911 mi.
Spongey brake pedal....
Result: Air in Brake lines bled @ 11911 mi.
Brake Pedal to the floor....
Result: Master cylinder bad @ 12000 mi.
Floor heater will not shut off while driving....12000 mi.
Result: Undetermined as of yet, Not a Workhorse problem and have to take it another service facility. Repaired myself.
Remedy: Replace 3 position control switch on dash.
New problem found: 12-28-03
Front end sway (leaning away in turns)....12400 mi.
Result: Nuts and bolts missing from swaybar mount as well as crossmember plate loose.
Remedy: Replaced Missing Hardware myself.
* This post was edited 12/29/03 11:25am by pete's retreat *
2002 Itasca Sunrise 30W
8.1 Vortec. P32 Workhorse. 1963 el lobo toad
Break Down Description: Low gear only. Would not shift up.
Symptoms:
Effect:
Cause: Nylon governor drive gear on TH400 trans had teeth worn off. After second occurance used a brake cyl hone in bore of trans case to prevent apparent binding of governor.
Outcome: No reoccurances.
RV particulars: P30
Break Down description: Low power, some intake popping, flames and loud bangs out exhaust. Kept getting worse. Finally stopped running.
Cause: Spark looked a little too orange, so replaced HEI coil. Ran like new. Coil had been replaced by previous owner with an apparent no-name part.
NOTE: Any incorrect spelling is intentional to prevent those annoying popups.
84 Barth 30Tag powered by HT502/Thorley/Weiand etc, Gear Vendors OD.
Siamese Calvin and Airedale Hobbes, 4WD Toyota toad
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): WH P30 8.1 Vortec 4 spd
Miles: 26,000
Year: 2001
Break Down Description:
Symptoms: No start after fueling. No dash electrics either
Effect:Nothing happened when the key was turned - no chassis electric came on
Cause:Ignition switch someplace on the floor or in the dog house.
Outcome:Fully warranteed - 23000 miles and under two years. towed at WH expense to WH service center outside of Columbus OH. They spent 2.5 days tracing the electric system replacing parts as they went. final tally was $1,500 bill to WH and we had to drive the Tow'd from Columbus to Rochester and back - better than sitting in a dingy motel witing for answers. Have not had any reoccurance in subsequent 3,000 miles.
Paul
Trucking down the road in our 2012 Phaeton 36QSH on Freightliner Chassis with a Cummins 380 pushing it. 2011 Cherry Red Jeep Wrangler Rubicon with US Gear Unified Tow Brake System. Check out my blog
FMCA 352081 SKP# 99526
Problem:
Bearing failures on tag axle.
1st failure occurred at approximately 10,500 miles. Left tag axle wheel bearing failed while driving down interstate 10 at approximately 72 mph.
After installing new bearings, had the right side tag axle wheel removed and repacked.
2nd failure occurred at approximately 19,000 miles. Right tag axle wheel bearing failed.
Exact cause was not determined, however, after weighing just the tag axle it was found to be approximately 1 ton over design weight.
After removing as much "stuff" as possible, the tag axle was still over weight by almost the same amount.
Remedy: Traded
vance
2007 Coachman Encore
330 HP Mercedes
Honda CRV toad
"If you see our children, PLEASE don't tell them where we are"
Chasis: Chev P30
Driveline (Engine, Transmission):454 3spd
Miles:45k
Year:1985
Break Down Description: Just bought it and drove her home. The folowing day It would start and just quit within a few seconds.
Symptoms
tart...quit, start...quit.Effect: No Trip!
Cause: Rear(2nd of two fuel pumps) had no power.
Fix: Wired in parallel with front pump.
Outcome: Runs great.
Scott & Linda
Heritage 2000(L.Y. RELENTLESS)
Honda EU2000i
Matrix Solar Panels
Cobra inverter - 2000c/4000s
Co-Pilots; Patches(RV Cat), April(Top dog)& 2 Turtle Doves
Palm Beach Pontoon Boat
FMCA 348582
Good Sams
Driveline Ford 460
Miles:10K
Year:1992
Break Down Description: On my way to fill fuel tank, 1/2 mile from home. Loss of oil pressure caused by loss of oil.
Symptoms: Running rough as lifters are not getting oil.
Effect: Stopped
Cause: Oil cooler came apart
Fix: Walked home and got my car and tools. Bypassed the oil cooler and added more oil. Replaced the cooler later ($220.00 from Ford)
Outcome: Problem Solved, I thought.
Year:1992
Break Down Description: Driving west on I-20 in East Texas. Suddenly I can't see anything behind me because of the smoke coming from the motorhome. Pulled over instantly and prepared to bail out of the burning coach. No fire! Oil cooler was leaking, spraying a mist of oil back over the manifold causing a smoke screen you wouldn'believe.
Cause: Oil cooler came apart, again.
Fix: Had tools and coveralls aboard. After the system cooled, I bypassed the oil cooler once again and added only a quart of oil. Replaced the cooler later ($50.00 from J. C. Whitney)
Outcome: Problem Solved.
Year:2001
Break Down Description: No breakdown, but losing large amounts of transmission fluid.
Cause: Transmission Oil cooler came apart. This is identical to the oil cooler.
Fix: Replaced the cooler . ($50.00 from J. C. Whitney)
Outcome: Problem Solved
Paul & Helen
2002 Winnebago Journey DL
1999 Jeep Cherokee toad
Yellow Lab, Jodie, Chocolate Lab, Coco
, and Lab/Golden mix, Sandy.FMCA 98905
http://ptempesta.blogspot.com
2002 HR Vacationer 36DBD, W22 Chassis, 9000 miles and going since I just recently retired.
Breakdown: While traveling from Las Vegas toward Yellowstone in August, in weather that was extremely hot, 114 degrees and had been so for several days. Stopped in St. George, Utah and filled up with gas. It's mid-day and very hot. Started up the grade from St. George toward Cedar City and had a significant amount of gas blowing out from under the coach. Local fire department responded since the temperatures were so extreme. In the end, several locals lectured me about not ever filling my gas tank to the top in such weather conditions. Don't know if that's what happened for sure or not, but had to wait in Cedar City for 3 days, until the local Chevrolet (workhorse rep.) could check all the lines and the gas tank. Supposedly found no significant problems, just tighted up all the lines, including of course the return line. Wrong or right, I haven't filled the tank to the brim since this incident and it hasn't repeated itself. Thank goodness, lots of gas and high temperatures are scarey.
Codytyler
2002 HR Vacationer, 36DBD, W22, 2006 PT Cruiser GT Convertible Toad
2007 GMC 3500 dually ext. cab 4X4 LBZ
Duramax / Allison
Fire Red
1997 Triple E Topaz 27' Bunkhouse TT
81 Citation 25' "Tail dragger" "Under construction"
"Workin' man's rig"
Bob's Trucks
Check Out My Rebuild Project
Project Feedback
RV particulars: 2000 Country Coach 40'
Driveline Cummins ISC 330, Allison 4000
Miles:11,000
Break Down Description: Engine Quit
Symptoms: Everything stopped, all gauges went to zero, no warning lights, power steering, all indications of ignition key being turned off.
Effect: Fortunately we were on a private road to our church parking lot. We were going only about 10MPH so we pulled over without incident. Could have been dicey anywhere else.
Cause: This was the first time we had driven the MH with cats on board. Being new to this environment, the cats hid in the bedroom closet and only came out when things were quiet. When I started up the engine and started moving, they stayed in the closet until we went over the first speed bump on the road to our church. This, along with clothes falling on them and cans crashing out of the pantry, caused them to race to the front of the MH and away from the noise. One cat, an 18 lb Main Coon, had previously discovered a safe place under the dash to hide to which she made a beeline. In the confusion and turmoil of the speed bump, neither of us knew she had gone there, but in her dash to safety, she pulled the wire harness away from the ignition switch.
Outcome: After checking out the chassis battery and other electrical connections that might have been ignition related, the absence of any wires attached to the ignition switch was discovered. Reconnecting the harness fixed the problem. After an additional search, cat was found hiding in the vacant area behind passenger side dash panel.
Solution: 1) Safety wired harness to ignition switch, 2) cardboarded and duct taped underside of dash to prevent cat entry, 3) put cats in cage in dingy when underway.
Postscript: As cats became accustomed to travel, they now ride in the motorhome, unsupervised on the bed, most of the time sleeping while underway. The engine now seems to have a calming effect.
Oh yeah, and I now drive very slowly over speed bunps.
3126 Cat 330HP, Allison3000
Freightliner XC Chassis
Breakdown details: In Dec 2000 AC Compressor replaced under warranty at 10,000 miles. In November 2001 at 18,000 miles temp gauge showed serious overheating about 25 miles east of Billings,Montana. Limped along for a few miles and then checked engine to discover that serpentine belt was broken. First Emergency Road Service arrived two hours later with closest replacement belt he could find and advised that the real problem was seized AC compressor that was run by the same belt and caused fraying and breakage. Three hours later towed to Freightliner in Billings and waited over weekend plus Monday for new Compressor to come in from Reno. Compressor and belt replaced and everything fine after that.
2003 DSDP 4004 triple slide
350 ISC, Spartan, Allison3000
2002 Honda CRV
Engine: Cummins 350, Allison
Miles: 40,000
Year: 1997
Break Down Description: (You can add any description of the problem here that you think would help others in understanding the situation and problem.)
Symptoms: Loss of air pressure
Effect: Had to stop before brakes locked up
Cause: Air dryer seal
Outcome: Good Sam Road Service dispatched diesel mechanic who bypassed air dryer to continue trip. Replaced seals when we got home. Told that this is a maintenance item.
Lesson: Put the air dryer on your annual maintenance list.
B & B
Yellow Labs: Rusty & ZBar
Monaco Dynasty DP
2000 Itasca Horizon DP 36'
300 Cat
6 speed Allison
towing 4dr. 4wd Tracker
Heading west over the Bighorns in Wyoming from Yellowstone through Cody. Long pull to top of pass and the engine starts overheating. Pull over to check coolant and it is fine and full. Engine cools down within normal range almost immediately. In the next 8-12 miles had to pull over to cool 5-6 times.
Figured the altitude and toad causing the heating. Not further problems until some long hills in South Dakota when the temp indicator went up but no warning buzzer.
No further problems until August coming out of Alabama and heat went up. Same thing in NC crossing mountain and buzzere went off. Engine cooled down very quickly.
This coach had made a trip from Georgia to Las Vegas the previous year with no problems at all.
Resolution:
RV.net member PM'd after hearing of the problem and said he thought the radiator was partially blocked. Trip to a quarter carwash and a handfull of change and a tremendous amount of dirt and oily crud washed out of the radiator. Turns out Freightliner left the puke pipe from the crankcase breaker too short and it dumps the oily smoke and fumes on the radiator core. Dust and road debris collects on that and causes air flow restriction.
Cost: frayed nerves for a few hours and about 4 dollars and 20 minutes with high pressure spray and degreaser.
horsedoc
2008 Damon Essence
2003 Honda Element
Blue Ox tow
Driveline (Engine, Transmission)
at 330hp, Allison 6Miles: 4,000
Year:2003 New just picked up at /Monaco/Safari Service Ctr, Wildwood,FL
Break Down Description: (You can add any description of the problem here that you think would help others in understanding the situation and problem.)
Symptoms: Poor acceleration
Effect: Front wheels hot, noticed by a Wal-Mart truck driver
Cause: Brakes dragging
Outcome: Safari replaced all components on front axle at n/c
03 Safari Cheetah. I bought it to use it and I do.
RV particulars:2003 Safari Cheetah 38' double slide
Driveline (Engine, Transmission)
Miles: 12,000
Year:2003
Break Down Description: (You can add any description of the problem here that you think would help others in understanding the situation and problem.)
Symptoms: Poor acceleration intermittedly, problems with cruise control engaging
Effect: None really but familiar with problem from previous incident. Could obviously have been serious
Cause: Brakes dragging
Outcome: Safari replaced all components on both axles at n/c thru a Barlow Freightliner in Little Rock. Barlow was excellent. Safari had a big problems in getting the right parts there and wasted at least a week of our time and caused us several hundred dollars in travel expenses that we have not sought restituion for yet
Driveline (Engine, Transmission)
at 330hp, Allison 6 spdMiles: 14,000
Year:2003 Break Down Description: (You can add any description of the problem here that you think would help others in understanding the situation and problem.)
Symptoms: Chassis batteries dead after unit sits for a couple of days even if connected to shore power
Effect: Engine needed boost
Cause: Safari had wired several components including fridge into the chassis battery
Outcome: My tech said was told that was deliberate ! I would not have the foggiest reason why they would do this. Safari advised tech to add an Echo charger to keep the chassis batteries up at my expense. Would not authorize tech to change wiring said I could come to FL Service center and they would do it. I know it sounds like bs but I swear it is true. I was having fridge problems and just happened to notice the fridge was off (I leave it on always as I use the coach 4 or 5 days out of 7) I hit on and nothing. I went to start the coach and the chassis battery was dead. Back to the panel the house batteries were full (I have and auto-start generator). Used the transfer switch to get engine started went back and hit the fridge on button again and Voila it came on as did the old light bulb. Btw had already replaced one set of chassis batteries under warranty
Driveline (Engine, Transmission)
at 330hp, Allison 6Miles: 10,000
Year:2003
Break Down Description: (You can add any description of the problem here that you think would help others in understanding the situation and problem.)
Symptoms: Less than expected power and mileage (previously had 300 hp Cat)
Effect: Mileage was approx 7mpg had gotten 10 + with previous unit
Cause: Hole in hose from turbo to engine
Outcome: Safari paid Cat for fix as hose was routed improperly causing it to rub thru. Didn't offer to pay for the wasted juice though
Note: Due to invalid formatting, all formatting has been ignored.
RV: 1999 Pace Arrow Vision
Toad: 2002 Saturn L200
Brake System: VIP-TOW Brake
Towing: RoadMaster Towing Base plates
Tow Bar: RoadMaster Falcon 2
RV particulars: Itasca Suncruiser DP
Driveline 190hp 5.9L Cummins, Allison 4
Miles: 91,000
Year: 1993
Break Down Description: Electrical Malfunction
Symptoms: Blindness at 65mph
Effect: Driving lights cycling on and off (mostly OFF) while on a highway at night. Brights would work only if I held the stalk in the flash-to-pass position.
Cause: Corrosion inside the Headlamp Switch was breaking the connection.
Outcome: Purchased a new Headlamp switch for $14. Installation was easy.
RV particulars: Itasca Suncruiser DP
Driveline 190hp 5.9L Cummins, Allison 4
Miles: 91,000
Year: 1993
Break Down Description: Hydraulic leak from HWH stabilizer hose.
Symptoms: Greasy tires and a messy driveway.
Effect: Fluid was dripping onto the front tire from the controller above.
Cause: The hose was leaking near the controller box.
Outcome: Called HWH (they are very helpful) and they determined that tightening wouldnt help since the leak was where the rubber meets the fitting. I removed the hose and brought it to the local hydraulic hose shop. It took them ten minutes to repair the hose with a new fitting. I reinstalled it without purging the system. The HWH stabilizer system will self-purge any air in the lines. Cost was only $5.
RV particulars:
Driveline F-53, ford 460
Miles: 20000
Year: 1997
Break Down Description: while on vacation in the summer, when I would slow down to 55-50 to pull off the highway, the engine would quit. Outside temp 100+.
Symptoms: Difficult to start or if it did would not be enough power to move. After several hours of cool down, rig ran great until the next time I slowed down.
Effect:
Cause: Thought is was vapor lock like in the old days with carbs only this is FI. Turned out to be bad fuel pump in tank
Outcome:Under extended warranty, had dealer replace fuel pump and problem went away. Cost was $850.00 see comment below
Talked to several others and they had the same problem and the only cure was to replace the fuel pump. there is someone, don't remember his name at the moment, who came up with a way to install an external fuel pump instead of replacing the one inside or to use the external in conjunction with the one inside. His repair is a good one and he also has pictures with a complete description on how to install it.
Ed/Jan
Smile! and have a nice day.
USMC Retired '87, Retired again ,2010
97 36' Georgie Boy Cruise Air
Amateur Radio W6EDD
99 Nisson Frontier Tow
Retired Again March '10
5 month cross country trip. What a beautiful country we have. (10-23-10)
miles: 36000
Yr: 1998
Breakdown: Engine wouldn't start
Symptoms: Starter turned but no starting
effect: no engine running
Cause: faulty fuel shut off solenoid
Outcome: replaced solenoid two different times as they were faulty but under warranty.
Richard
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): Cat 300, Allison 3000
Miles: 10414
Year: 2002
Break Down Description: Unable to start after changing fuel filter
Symptoms: Low power going up steep grade in New Mexico
Effect: Maximum speed was about 40 mph going up hill, rough engine at full throttle.
Cause: Dirty fuel filter
Outcome: Per the owners manual, change fuel filter every 15,000 miles. I carry a spare so I consulted the CAT owners manual and it said to NEVER fill the fuel filter with fuel when you only have one 3-micron in-line filter to prevent contamination and early injector pump failure. Engine would not stay running after I changed the filter per the manual. Towed 75 miles to Caterpillar repair center (thanks Good SAMS ERS). Per the senior service technician, "you must fill the filter with fuel or it won't start." DAH! $200.00 to purge air with portable hand pump.
Since I don't have a hand prime pump, or a fuel filter fill plug, I found that I can insert a 3/4 inch NPT pipe plug in the center of the filter and then fill it with fuel. This filters all fuel so there is no contamination. I now carry a spare filter, pipe plug and about 1/2 gallon of fuel in case this ever happens again.
I suspect I may have had algae in the fuel tank since it had the same fuel in the tank for several months (I bought it new off the lot late in 2002, build date was 2/2002). I now add biocide to the fuel if it is going to set for any length of time (wish dealer did). I only fill at Flying-J or Loves.
Larry
Edited to add year and model of MH
* This post was edited 01/14/04 11:20am by Larry&Linda *
Larry and Linda
2002 Ultrasport 3126E Cat-300
Toad - 2003 Limited Edition Jeep Liberty 4X4
Blue OX Aventa II Tow Bar
Unified Tow Brake by US Gear
FMCA #F333931
Driveline: 8.1 Vortec, Allison 5-speed.
Miles: 3,138 total miles.
Year: 2003
Breakdown description: Motorhome broke down 01 Aug,2003 on return side of its maiden voyage to Loveland, Co. With no prior warning, the engine light came on and lcd display indicated "0" oil pressure. We were eastbound on I-90 1/2 mile from the Sherburn, Minn. exit. we immediately exited and pulled into a parking lot just as the lifters began to clatter. We unhooked the toad, called Coach-net Road service, and waited for tow truck to arrive. We had to leave MH at Mel Carlson Chevrolet in Truman, Minn. (600 mi from home) to be repaired, because it was going to take 3 weeks to get parts. Returned on 24 Aug and drove our repaired Coach home.
Symptoms: Engine light illuminated, "0" oil pressure indicated on computer readout.
Effect: Motor home had to be towed approx 20 miles to authorized repair shop. Left motor home behind and waited 3 weeks for parts procurement/repairs.
Cause: Broken oil pump drive shaft.
Outcome: Parts replaced: oil pump, oil pumpshaft(broken), pumpshaft-to-cam coversion gear,(gear scored), camshaft(wear marks on gear teeth), all the solid lifters (matched to camshaft), and gaskets. Towing covered by Easy Care, All repairs covered by Workhorse Warranty. Still waiting for expenses re-imbursement checks from from both Easy Care and Workhorse. Received calls from both of them today that checks are being processed and that I should have them next week. Although this was a traumatic experience at times, It had a positive outcome for us. Warranty covered repairs, We are going to be reimbursed for most, not all our out-of-pocket expenses. Mel Carlson Chevrolet provided excellent service, left the motorhome spic and span inside and out. They and our RV Dealer (Hilltop RV and Superstore of Escanaba, MI) contacted us almost daily with status and progress updates. They handled allof the coordination and interface with Workhorse and Coachmen. When we got it back home, we had some other issues Hilltop had us bring it in and they started work on it. We never got it back because they made us "a deal we couldn't refuse"! But that's another adventure! (See Signature below).
SAM & BARB
Mona (The "Princess" Siamese Mix)
2004 Itasca Suncruiser 35U
Toad: 2004 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon or 2002 Bonneville
They replaced wires and some other parts and I was on my way with more power than I had all first part of the year.
Last summer was heading in to Silverton,Colo. and the heat gauge went clear over to hot as far as it could go. I Quickly moved to a off the road spot and checked the engine the raditor was almost cool enough to lay my hand on it. The motor did not smell hot so I turned it off and the heat gauge returned to cool real fast,after checking the oil and water and transmission every thing seemed to be fine I started on up the road about 5 miles down the road the heat gauge again went over to hot.Again I stopped and checked every thing out. all OK. On my return trip I found a Chevrolet dealer and they put it on the computer, found that the heat sensor in the block was bad. Put in a new one and about $75.00 I was back on the road. Guage has not showed hot since.
* This post was edited 01/06/04 11:45am by egh33 *
RV particulars: 1988 Fleetwood Limited
Driveline (Ford 460 Engine (yes, it has a CARB), C6 Transmission) on a John Deere chassis
Miles: less than 50,000
Break Down Description: Quick Trip - New Orleans to San Diego (HA!) Fill-up the gas tank on the way out of Louisiana (OK, I was trying to save a bit of change and use the cheap stuff at a station right outside of the refinery) Hot to Trot!
Symptoms: Got about 300 miles into texas and started to loose power
Effect: Slowing down and even dying on the highway - kept going by pumping the floor pedal several times - over and over to get to the next town - Late in the evening (8PM). Crawled into a repair shop just closing for the night - explained I needed to get to SD quick. Mechanic listened to my sad tale and said 'If you are here in the morning I'll fix it and charge you plenty - but if you want to go across the street to the parts store and get a fuel filter and put it in yourself, you can be on your way in less than an hour'.
Cause: Fuel Starvation due to gunk cloging the primary fuel filter at the tank - most likely from the cheap fuel
Outcome: He was right - but back then I looked sort of hopeless and asked 'Fuel filter - where it is and what does it look like'? Now, I have all the owner, technical and parts manuals for the chassis, drive train and coach. And the tools to fix most minor problems if they arise. Fuel Filters? Two in the kit - plus spare belts (4 different-no two alike), and about 60 lbs of other spares I hope I never have to use - but have used several times!! There are many things I can not (or due to my ignorance or intelligence will not) do, but it pains me to pay big bucks to do the simple / minor things.
1997 Rexhall Rolls Air - mid-entry DP w/cummins c8.3
Look for the Mardi Gras 'Gators
Laissez le bon temps roulez - Let the good times roll !!
Click to see the Best View of our rig - That's ME, Going Away!!
post it when you have the time thanks,i have heard so much about the intank pump going out on the f53 460,,want to have on on hand ,i have a 1992 f53
Traveling on interstate, got light wiffs of diesel fuel, decided that noone was close enough for us to smell their fuel, pulled onto ramp east end or Yuma to do a walk around, got to the back & had fuel spraying onto pavement, ran for the ignition key.
Opened the engine compartment, had wet fuel everywhere (luckly not on the exaust manifold), cranked the engine & got the fuel spray from the side of the secondary fuel filter. The almost new filted had developed a 1/2 inch split in the side of the filter. Used toad to find a NAPA store, I had the filter receipt for a change, they replaced filter as warantee & allowed me to return to their store & hose off coach compartment & toad.
An earler problem was engine overheating: I ended up with a recored oversized radiator & the experience of removing the radiator, after cooler, transmission cooler package four times. I also had an auxilary radiator fabricated & sized to fit behind the front grill along with the airconditioning condenser. I connected the auxiliary radiator to the heater hose with an inline heater hose valve that can be opened from the cockpit. When I put water through the auxiliary radiator the engine temp. will drop 15 degrees within seconds. The front radiator is getting fresh air plus I wired the front airconditioning fans so that I can turn them on if more air is needed.
I did all of the labor & designing myself. I can now have my radiator/cooler assembly out of my coach in 4 hours. The dollar cost to me was $530. The low cost was because the radiator shop made mistakes that forced me to do 3 of the four removals. The local RV dealer wanted $875 to just R&R the radiator without any repairs.
1989 chief
Driveline (Engine, Transmission):Ford V-10, 4R100
Miles: 22000
Year: 1999
Break Down Description: Severe Vibration
Symptoms: Vibration which appeared to be in the front end. Ford TSB about wheels not self centering, holes in wheels larger than hubs.
Effect: Caused a severe vibration usually between 25MPH and 65MPH. I could feel it in the steering wheel and because I had knowledge of the TSB, I assumed it was the wheels/tires on the front. Had front end alignment and all tires rebalanced. No change. Next trip had front wheels manually centered. No change. Front tires were cupping irregularily, rotated tires per Ford and Goodyear specifications, no change. Put airbags on the front, no change. After 22,000 miles took the motorhome to dealer. Took it for a test drive with the shop manager. (NOTE: I have been the only driver) After he walked around the M/H while in motion, he drove and had me walk around the coach. Vibration was extremely severe over the rear axle.
Cause: 3 of the rear axle bearings shot. Replaced all the wheel bearings in the rear end
Outcome: Vibration non existant now. (NOTE: I was only able to test drive the M/H for about 40 miles before I put it up for the winter, but so far so good.)
Apparently the vibration had traveled up the driveline to the transmission and then to the steering box. Lesson learned, don't assume anything and check everything. Luckily Most of the attempted repairs and the major repairs covered by warranty, after about $4000 worth of repairs, I am only out about $400.
Bill & Susie
Annie the Pommie & Randy our cat
1999 Hurricane 34' w/slide, v-10
1998 Jeep Wrangler Sport
Teal Turtle Tea Tours and Travelling Taxi
Driveline (Engine 330 Cat, Transmission Allison 3060):
Miles:40,000
Year:
Break Down Description: (engine quit)
Symptoms: I was driving west on I 12, when the engine started surging. I pulled into a rest area and all the alarms and warning lights started flashing and the engine quit.
Effect: Engine would not restart, oil was all over the toad and dripping from the mudflap on the rear of the coach
Cause:A high pressure oil line failed. Apparently this oil line affects the operation of the injectors.
Outcome: Called Allstate RV Road service, was towed to Big Wheel garage in Hammond, LA. The oil line had dry rotted and was replaced. I will pickup the coach this moning. (A Cat Certified facility is not the same as a Cat Authorized Service facility. No warranty help.)
Rich FMCA F314671
2000 Holiday Rambler Endeavor 38 CDD
Cat 330 h.p. 2003 Jeep Liberty
Aventa II, Apollo brake
Driveline (454, 3speed tran):
Miles: 63k
Year: 1985
Symptoms: Freeway driving, engine backfires, dies
Effect: no go, need tow
Cause: 1st time found the coil and rotor had disentagrated, replaced coil, modulator, cap, wires
Outcome: ran for a bit, did it again
Symptoms: Freeway driving, engine backfires, dies
Effect: no go, need tow
Cause: This was the 2nd time this happened, still electrical. Turned out oil was getting up into the bottom? sensor on the distributor, replace distributator, coil
Outcome: ran good
Steve & Dora
05 32s Fleetwood Terra, Workhorse
Two kids
Dog, Duke a Cocker mix
Cats Jester and Sassy
However, I think it should include ANY breakdown - for example mine occurred while I was at home. I bought a '90 Winnebago 36 RQ with tag axles on ebay and drove it back to OKC from phoenix - it performed flawlessly until I got it home. Then it kept konking out - like it wasn't getting gas - checked all the obvious things like filters, etc. and finally decided it had to be the fuel pump. I called the local dealers and they said it would be about $800 to drop the tank and replace the pump. I thought, man, I screwed up on this purchase but crawled under the big beast again to look at the tank (desperate thoughts of doing it myself). WAIT - there was the fuel pump on the outside. I reached up to touch it and the positive wire to it fell apart in my hands. 3' of wire and a connector and it has run VERY well for about 12,000 miles....
Richard Weeter
tjtheoneway
MY BROTHER IN LAW AND I REMOVED THE EX BRAKE AND WORKED IT FREE AND IT STARTED WORKING AGAIN. THE FUEL LEAK WAS FIXED AFTER LIMPING INTO BEND, ORE. ON A SUNDAY. AFTER BEING UNABLE TO GET A MECHANIC TILL MONDAY, I CRAWLED UNDER THE UNIT WHILE BROTHER IN LAW STARTED IT AND DETERMINED IT WAS THE DIESEL RETURN LINE FROM THE INJECTOR PUMP TO THE TANK THAT WAS LEAKING. SOMEBODY HAD APPARENTLY CHANGED THE RUBBER HOSE PART OF IT AND TIED IT TO THE METAL CONNECTORS ON THE POWER STEERING LINE AND THIS RUBBED A HOLE IN IT. I WAS VERY HAPPY TO BE ABLE TO FIND THE PROBLEM AND FIX IT, WITH NEW HOSE AND CLAMPS FOR $5.30.
BIGCAJN
Same thing happened to me "almost Identical" . Corroded fuse to lift pump. "No Lift Pump - No Diesel".
2002 Coachmen Cross Country
Dodge Caravan Toad
Remco
Brake Buddy
Navigator (Best Friend)Wife 39years
Pilot (Ask Me)
The bottom line is..the wire powering that radiator fan was broken. We didn't overheat seriously until we were on highway 385 going up two lane switch-back roads through Custer National Park on our way up to Mt. Rushmore. It was incredibly difficult to find a place to pull over..and a very dangerous tow off the mountain.
Moral is...make sure EVERY component and accessory is demonstrated in working order when you take delivery of a new or used coach..even if that accessory may not be necessary at the time.
Currently driving an '86 Newell we thoroughly enjoy..no breakdowns in the last 2-3 years. But thanks to an alert mechanic who noticed by u-joint was about shot just before a 4,000 mile trip.
Freightliner XC Chassis
Allison 3000mh
275 Cummins ISB
Right front Bilstein shock shaft stripped threads on shaft to lower mount. Loud noise on any right side of coach front on any imperfection in road -- occurred W of Whitehorse, YT Canada. Solution, weld shaft to lower mount and replace both under warranty when return to US.
Hammus
Bob and Sue in Texas
2001 Bounder DP 37K Cummins 275 ISB
Jeep Liberty
W5TX Amateur Call
My first thought was that the alternator went out, so I pulled it and my weak battery from the M/H, disconnected the tow and proceded into town to look for a NAPA dealer which I found. I asked them to check out my alternator which they said was bad. Not having one there I left my battery to be recharged and went pick-up an alternator at another NAPA store.
Back at the M/H I reinstalled the battery and the Rebuilt Alternator, started the engine and wola, the battery wasn't charging. Drove the m/h with the newely charged battery to the NAPA store to get there before they closed, pulled alternator and had them check out the rebuilt unit. They said it too was bad! Asked him to check out another unit in his store and he said that it also checked out bad! Evidently he didn't know what he was doing with the tester. Asked him for the nearest Chevy dealer address and went there to have my system checked out.
The Chevy service shop had closed for the day. Spent the night in an adjacent parking lot. The next morning I asked the service tech to check out my charging system, he too said that the rebuilt alternator was bad, he order me a New Delco unit. I removed the rebuilt unit to return it to NAPA for credit and installed my old unit back in. Well after a few hours the New Delco unit came in, wrong size, he reordered another unit (2 hr wait).
In the mean time I looked in my Chevy shop manuals I keep in the M/H and it said to check the Alternator fuse, well I could not find any fuse labled Alternator, I continued to check all fuse( A Bunch) and found the "Instrument panel" fuse Blown, replaced it, started the engine and the old alternator was working fine, told the tech and he said he would cancel the order for the new alternator because he said if the old unit works it would be a waste of money to replace it. He also said that there would not be any charges! Maybe because I found my own problem?
Funny how they all said that the alternators were bad! Makes you wonder about the knowledge of the service techs out there.
I guess if it would have been earlier in the day I would have found the blown fuse sooner.
The moral of the story is to always check all the fuses first.
Jim
Jim,Sr., Jean & Charlie Boy (K9) Ray 88 - 25'HR AlumaFrame, 460/C6, Looking for a new Dinghy, DirecTV, XM, 6-210amp GC, Separator, Link-10, PD9280/Wiz, ProSine 1800, PowerPoles, VZW Internet, Smith & Wilson
JamesRaySr@gmail.com
Glendale, AZ
Itasca 35U
Workhorse W22
Driveline (Vortec 8.1 L, Allison 5 Spd):
Miles: 3817.5 at time of breakdown
Year: 2004
Break Down Description: Yellow "Check Engine Light", and "Reduced Enging Power" message on dash --- should read" NO ENGINE POWER"!!!
Symptoms:
Absolutely not enough power to do more than roll to a stop. Engine was clattering - shut it off and called Workhorse - they arranged for a tow. It was Dec 23 in the afternoon so we were ruined as far as rthe vacation went - dealer couldn't look at rig until the 27th. Towed us to a KOA where we spent Christmas.
Cause: Diagnosed as a loose plug on the throttle position sensor
Outcome: They checked it with the computer after reinstalling the plug and said it was fine - worked all the way from Charleston to Florida ----------- then crapped out again!! Next dealer spent 7 1/2 hours diagnosing the problem and came up with the idea that the throttle position sensor was bad and needed to be replaced - of course they didn't have one and it was going to take 5 - 7 days to get!!!!! It took SEVEN. I am still fuming that parts would take that long - someone is yanking my chain but the rig now runs well - all the way home to Pennsylvania with out any engine problems other than the fact that it must be running rich - less than 7mpg and only pullng a 700 pound motorcycle trailer - I got over 7.5 pulling my Ford Explorer to Michigan over Interstate 80 in Pennsylvania. Oh well - have to wait and see what my local dealer says - just got home yesterday...
C. L. Smith Itasca 35U
Spartan Chassic Cummins 260 ISB
Allison 5 speed
1. 2 rear blow-outs , had spares
2. Engine fire.
Cause; 2/0 copper to gen-set shorted out between gen-set and frame.
3 Engine; Started engine after 28 days of nonuse. Service engine light
came on with audible alarm, 1min. later red blinking engine light came
on,30 seconds later engine shut off.
Coolant level sensor was to blame, because plastic type sight bulb in
overflow tank from radiator cracked and allowed coolant to spray out
untill 2 gal. tank was empty. Unplugged sensor to restore engine power. Replaced plastic with metal plug. Added coolant in 2 gal. tank
to bring everything back to normal.
2001 Travel Supreme 36' DP - "Smoky's Den"
2001 Automatic PT Cruiser, Blue Ox tow and break system and Remco trans. pump.
I always carry an AutoXray ODB1&2 scanner with me along with a factory shop manual. The scanner will tell me pretty much exactly what is wrong. I may not be able to fix the problem on the roadside, but I can be sure what the problem is so I won't be ripped off by the repair shop.
* This post was last edited 02/04/04 11:57am by an administrator/moderator *
2001 Dutch Star 13500 miles 330 Caterpillar Diesel, Allison 3160 6 speed transmission 40' coach. Problem(s) started with noise from rear of coach , hard steering, loss of hydraulic fluid. ended with overheating,hard steering, low oil pressure, engine oil all over rear of coach, and being TOWED.Part of the hydraulic pump, which is driven off air pump, sheared off causing a total hydraulic failure, and the fittings on the power steering unit on the front axle were leaking. It would not leak at idle or sitting. Prior to total failure Called Freightliner several times and Freightliner service centers and described in detail symptoms, drop in oil pressure, increase engine temp, hard steering, and was told it was O.K. to 'limp' into a service center. Of course this started Friday nite and the service centers reasonably close to me where not open on weekends. As the warranty, 3 years 150,000 miles, expired June of 2003 Freighliner nor Caterpillar claimed any liabilty. Newmar has been NO help.
* This post was edited 02/05/04 08:52pm by trvlr *
Harvey Ellis
2001 Dutch Star 4093
Gainesville, Ga.
'on the road again'
Well, about a mile from the CG the engine started to die and I knew the voltage was getting too low to sustain it. I just barely managed to pull over to the side of the freeway and called Good Sam Emergency Service. While waiting for the service to arrive I had a brilliant idea. I got out my jumper cables and connected the coach battery directly to the start battery (very carefully, of course). This arrangement gave me enough power to make it to the CG (the Good Sam driver followed me to be sure I would make it). The next day, my mechanic came to the CG and installed a new alternator.
I was grateful that the breakdown happened when and where it did. I could have been out in the desert somewhere and would have had to be towed to an unknown repair shop for service. I much prefer my personal mechanic
Mr. Ed (fulltiming since 1987)
2007 Hitchhiker II LS Model 29.5 LKTG
2007 Dodge Ram 3500/6.7 CTD/QC/4X4/SB/SRW/6-speed man/Big Horn edition
The only good part of the tow was our MH was home in the driveway after the tow. It cost $45.00 for the repair. I guess you life and learn
Ocman
Cummins M-11 (450HP)/ Allison HD4060 (6-spd WT)
60,000 miles
1998
Breakdown: THREE in One Month!
Symptoms...
1) The day after taking delivery, drove 450 miles and engine began bucking and stalling and finally slowed to 10 mph and quit.
2) Drove 450 miles and engine would not restart after stop.
3) Drove 450 miles and engine began bucking. Engine would not restart after stop.
Effect...
Unable to get engine to operate normally.
Cause...
It was assumed to be dirty/clogged fuel filters. After changing filters (both primary and secondary) twice to no avail, on third failure, fuel pressure checked across Winn/Racor secondary fuel filter system and 25inHg restriction noted (almost a total vacuum). Bypassed third party fuel filter and engine has operated fine since.
Outcome...
Winn/Racor fuel filter system is third party system and as such, will not be repaired by Cummins. Cummins maintains that primary fuel filter (FS-1000) is sufficient and additional filter system unnecessary. Removed Winn/Racor system and disassembled. No obstructions found.
Driveline (Engine, Transmission)
ngineMiles:75,000
Year:1992 dodge D250
Break Down Description: (You can add any description of the problem here that you think would help others in understanding the situation and problem.)
Symptoms
ngine quit on freewayEffect
ead had to coast ot shoulderCause:fuel shut off valve malfunction
Outcome replace fuel shutoff valve
odge d250 5th wheelDriveline rear end
Miles:125,000
Year:1992
Symptoms:growling noise while making right turn
Effect:towed to repair facility
Cause
ear end gears brokenOutcome /replace rear-end
odge d250Driveline front end
Miles:150,000
Year:1992
Symptoms: growling noise at right front tire
Effect: difficult steering
Cause: wheel bearing disentigrated
Outcome replace complete right wheel assembly including brake
Driveline ford v10
Miles:36,000
Year:2002
Break Down Description: (You can add any description of the problem here that you think would help others in understanding the situation and problem.)
Symptoms: heard something dragging
Effect: pulled over at nearest wide place
Cause: safte-t-plus bracked broken
Outcome removed entire assembly and continued on trip. when I got home returned to purchace place, they repkaced bracket and reinstalled unit (no charge) As you can see from previous posts that the dodge d250 and 5th wheel trailer were sold for MH
Driveline Workhorse 8.1 Vortec, Allison 1000
Miles:14000
Year:2002
Break Down Description: Brakes freezing up,burning brake pads. Rt front at 8000 miles, RT rear at 8500 miles, L front at 12000 miles, L rear at 14000 miles.
(Symptoms
oach pulls to one side, strong burning smell, wheel covers too hot to touch.Effect:Towed to nearest Workhorse facility, Loss of use of coach for about 1 month total.
Cause: No plausible explanation from Workhorse.
Outcome: All brakes finally replaced, pads, calipers, rotors.
Coach is still in shop waitin for parts for the last event
Driveline (454 Chevy P30 chassis:
Miles:64k
Year:1985
Break Down Description: (You can add any description of the problem here that you think would help others in understanding the situation and problem.)
Symptoms: Driving along, by Salton Sea in California all lights go out, no lights no signals. Engine still running
Effect: Can't see to drive, spent rest of night on the side of the road, then drive to town
Cause: Fusible link by starter
Outcome: Get link replaced and problem solved.
Problem - Transmission over heat.
Bought the MH from my parents last year. While driving through the UP of Mich I saw a lot of smoke coming from under the coach. Checked it out and found that transmission fluid was running from a relief in the front pump and dripping onto the exhaust. Fluid was very low. Kept adding tillcould get into a town where I could have it checked out. Also notices that the temp gauge was showing below normal operting temp and the cooler was cool to the touch. (This transmission had been replaced about 2 years prior following a catastrophic failure of the original.) When I got to the transmission service company they dropped the pan and only found very burnt fluid, no metal to speak of. I asked the to back flush the cooler lines, they got a big load of junk out. Everything worked great afterwards. Temp gauge acted normal and trannie gave us no more trouble.
My assumption is that the service company replaceing the transmission DID NOT flush the cooler during replacement causeing a bad overheat and excess pressure condition when under heavy load such as uphill pulling a car on a dolly.
Something to think about when getting major service.
The fuse was a 20 amp automotive type.
I think it blew that morning when I tried to start the generator, I don't remember the sequence that took place to blow the fuse, but it never happened again yet!
At first I was concerned as to what blew the fuse, then I remimered that something happened that morning.
I now have the fuse labled in case it happens again.
Thanks
Jim T
RV particulars:
Driveline
Miles: Approx. 67000
Year: 1985 HR Alumalite
Symptoms: Died suddenly while on freeway as if ingition was turned off.
Effect: Tried to restart but it wouldn't until after a few minutes. After it started, traveled another 10-15 miles and the same thing happened. This went on for the entire 110 mile trip (one way).
Got to a auto parts store and they said it's the coil. Replaced it and it still failed.
Cause: Turned out to be the ignition controller which was mounted on the firewall. A thermal problem was causing it to short.
Outcome: Replaced and never had the problem again.
Albert, Mary, & Chelsie
The Little Engine That Could
1997 Dodge Ram 1500 5.9 V8 4x4
Surf
1993 Bayliner Ciera 2655 26ft Cabin Cruiser
Turf
2003 Nomad 190LT TT
2002 Fleetwood Expedition 34M, 300 Cummins w/Allison 6sp. The chassis, engine, trans...Outstanding. Fleetwood...very iffy quality control, but good concepts.
The best way to avoid breakdowns... new tires every 5 to 6 years regardless of mileage!!!
UPDATE:
Coach wouldn't start two days ago. Temp had been in single digits again, but slightly above freezing.... snow still standing.
1) Had noticed considerable sucking sound and "beer canning" sound of fuel tank when re-fueling, but wrote it off as just normal for non-vented tank. (I just bought this coach, so had no history to compare it to)
2) Drained Fuel/Water Filter (FS1000) and had long sucking sound before fuel drained. (Very little water)
3) Started engine, but it quit after running about 15 seconds. Would not start thereafter. Spent over 3 hrs trying to troubleshoot until batteries drained and had to call tow service.
4) Cummins service found fuel tank vent plugged. Vent line (1/2" hose) runs down below compartment (Curbside) where it is vulnerable to road debris, water, snow, etc. Engine started and no other problems found.
5) Theory was that the vacuum formed in fuel tank from plugged vent allowed air to be drawn into fuel filter when petcock opened to drain water. This allowed all the fuel in the line to be sucked back into the fuel tank, leaving the line full of air. Unable to prime the engine (Winn/Racor electronic air purge was bypassed due to suspect in former problems) so the engine would not start, and batteries ran down in unsuccessful attempt to draw fuel.
Monaco tech service says they have very few reports of this causing problem to other Navigator owners and continue to use this same venting on current models. They offered no solution, and have made no re-design of venting system. Comment was made that the fuel vent line was more than likely plugged when delivered by dealer and has been the cause for all four breakdowns.
Cummins technician suggests removing fuel cap before draining FS1000 in the future, and if difficulty starting engine, especially if vacuum present at fuel cap.
I re-installed Winn/Racor system (after having disassembled unit entirely and establishing the fact that there was no obstruction to fuel flow). Air purged using electronic panel (fuel line opened for this procedure) and engine started with no problem.
From now on, any vacuum found when removing fuel cap will be investigated.
NOTE: For owners of older model coaches with Winn/Racor fuel filter system requiring Racor 200200 30-micron filter, this filter is obsolete and supplies are almost (if not) gone. An upgrade kit is available to replace this with another filter/water separator bowl that is readily available. You can specify an aluminum or plastic see-thru bowl. The spin-on filter can be separated from the bowl and replaced at a much lower cost than the 200200, so the recovery of the upgrade kit cost is quick.
2001 Pinnacle 36'
2000 Honda CRV
1 Pappilon Maddie
SMI brake system
1998 Dolphin 36ft Chevy 454.
Towed twice, Both times were fuel pump problems. The large Chevy Truck dealer failed to keep up with Service Bulletins and a small town car dealer instantly knew what was wrong. The in tank electric Fuel Pump assembly needed to be replaced due to a connector that was too small and overheated causing a poor connection. The large dealer kept changing the Pump only and the plug was located 10 inches away at the top of the tank.
1999 DS DP ,Freightliner, Cat 300.
After getting fuel and getting back on I95 in Georga, I lost power steering and then the Check engine light came on. Pulled off and found that all of the PS fluid (Dextron III) had been lost. Fluid was all over the ground and the front of my toad. Cleaned it up a little and called Freightliner for help. The tech. said that there was a recall for the PS fluid filter. The system would develop pressure spikes from the side radiator fan cutting on and off. These pressure spikes caused the filter gasket to blow out. Freightliner suggested that we bypass the filter assembly until they sent me a kit to repair the problem. We found a hose shop that had a fitting that we used to bypass the Filter base.
The repair kit was a capture air tank that allowed the pressure spikes a place to dissipate the energy.
Freightliner did not use the PS fluid filter in my new 2002 DS motor home, may less is better.
Jeff
Full timing and loving it for 5 years.
Driveline (Cummins 6C 8.3 300hp Turbo Diesel: Allison MD3060 6-speed WT):
Miles: 15,714 and at 32,662
Year: Sept 1998 and Jan 2001
Break Down Description: Three episodes of discovering that 12volt system was not functioning. The first experience was a Newbie "Duh", and turned out to be the doorway 12v disconnect switch being bumped (and switched off) while unloading after a trip. The two noted above were a result of equipment failure.
Symptoms: All 12v electrical inoperative.
Effect: house lights, thermostat, appliances, etc., without power
Cause: failure of continuous duty solenoid located in main automotive panel.
Outcome: first failure replace under regular warranty, 2d occurrence covered under extended warranty and fixed using an upgraded heavy duty solenoid. Work was done by my RV dealer.
Randy
98 Monaco Windsor 34'
06 Saturn Vue V6
Vehicle: 94 Ford F250 7.5L E4OD Trans
Actual Problem: 16.00 vehicle speed sensor
Ford has these vehicle speed sensors on many of the electronic trans trucks and if the vehicle has no idea what speed it is going because the vehicle speed sensor is out to lunch, the transmission has no idea what speed it is going, when to shift or even what gear to be in.
Symptoms: I thought for sure the Tranny was gone. Vehicle wanted to start in Drive gear or even 2nd and not shift or extremely hard shifts.
It is worth every penny of 16.00 to purchase this little plastic part and throw in your glove box for that one rainy day. I have a new one in my glove box right now. Don't leave home without it.
Joe
Tow Rig: 94Ford F250 4x4,7.5L 460,Sterling 1 ton rear,4:10's,Gear Vendors U/O drive, complete E40D upgrade with manual presure riser,Banks power pack, MSD ignition,Tornado throttle body spacer,4core radiator, B&M engine oil cooler behind a 96 bumper, MG 220 Alternator,K&N AF,Dbl stack plate 30k GVW trans cooler, B&M 3.2qt. trans pan (22qts AMS OIL), full guage cluster, Advanced 2qt diff cover (5qts Redline),Bilsteins, 5k airbags, 10ply Toyo's. Yes, it will pull a house down!
TT: 2003 Arctic Fox 26XFKS
Honda Rancher 3504x4 ATV x2
Suzuki LTA50 ATV
Driveline (Engine 300HP Cummins ISB, Transmission Allison 6spd, Freightliner XC chassis, Damon Ultrasport 2002):
Miles:approx. 5000
Year:2002
Break Down Description:
Symptoms: red "stop engine" light display on dash.
Effect:No physical symptoms with driveability of vehicle (all gages showed o.k.)
Cause
ngine oil pressure sensor failure, causing signal to be sent to engine ECM indicating low oil pressure. Problem apparently due to rear-engine vehicles running warmer.Outcome
roblem known to Cummins Engine. Vehicle towed to Cummins dealership for replacement of sensor and wire harness, and recalibration of ECM software.
Just for your information, the sensor that supplies the information to the dash is not the same sensor that goes to the ECM. I did not realize this till I had a problem with my sensor that goes to the dash guage.
RV particulars:Georgie Boy Cruise Air
Driveline (Engine, Transmission)
Miles:22,000
Year:1994
Break Down Description: (You can add any description of the problem here that you think would help others in understanding the situation and problem.)
Symptoms
Effect
Cause:unconfirmed catastrophic failure
Outcome:New ring and pinion, new LH axle, hub, brake caliper and pads.
Pat and Cassie Hayes
2004 Ultrasport with Subaru Toad!
Sarah, Cami, Hailey and Sam
RV particulars:2001 Gulf Stream Sun Sport
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): Cummins / Allison
Miles:17,000
Year:2001
Break Down Description: (You can add any description of the problem here that you think would help others in understanding the situation and problem.)
Symptoms:Nice odor of raw diesel
Effect:numbing
Cause:loose fuel fitting at injector pump
Outcome
* 1972 Winnebago D22, on Dodge M400 chassis, 413 engine, 727 tranny.
* 90,000 total miles.
* 1972 RV. It happened in 2002, the RV was 30 years old.
Break Down Description: Driving along at 55 mph on the last day of a 3 week 4000 mile vacation, the engine lost oil pressure completely, and though it was running nicely, we shut it down as soon as we saw the gauge reading. It may have been zero for many miles.
Symptom: There had been a very slight valve ticking noise for the last 40k miles, since we got it 11 years earlier. Im used to a little tappet noise in old mopar engines.
Effect: Anxiety. Engine water temp and all other gauges normal. Motor sounded fine, no plume of smoke, no oil trail behind us.
Cause: A bent pushrod finally wore in two from rubbing against the head casting, the pieces dropped away, and the cam lobe pitched the lifter up out of the bore. This opened up the oil gallery, so lots of flow but zero pressure reading on both of my oil p. gauges.
Outcome: We got it towed the 200 miles home - $700. First time-ever tow.
Post Mortem: The bent pushrod pieces and lifter were in the cam valley. None of the pieces got in the way of anything else. I replaced the pushrods, and while I was at it, the engine bearings, timing chain, front and rear main seals, and other things easy to reach with the radiator out. I also replaced the valve cover gaskets, and painted the top of the now clean engine. The old bearings showed no sign of adverse wear beyond what you would expect at 90,000 miles. I spent about $800 on parts, and about 2 months of pleasant weekend free time.
I have had several other "events' that could have been breakdowns but I was able to fix them while we were stopped for sightseeing, eating, or cammping: fuel filter clogging, finicky headlight switch, vapor lock - solved that with heat shielding, vent cover broke off, broken throttle cable, kink in shifter cable, ign points needing replacement, etc.
72 Winnebago D22T
For a $2.00 part in your tool bag this might save some time. We had a left rear air bag failure. After being on the phone with HR (no help) we were painfully aware that we were 80 miles from anyone to fix our problem. When we called around local no one wanted to even work on a "Roadmaster" chassis. We were quoted 1 to 2 weeks.
After climbing under the motorhome for a couple of hours learning what did what, I determined that the air bags were good but the "air switch" that tells the air to fill or let the air our was bad. You are not supposed to run this chassis with a bag down, especially the rear because of the drive line.
I went to a tractor supply place, (any auto parts or Walmart will have them) and bought a female air chuck like you use on a air hose. The air bags have a "T" at each wheel well because they split the air going into the two bags. When you take the "T" loose it leaves a 1/4" male fitting that screws right in to the air chuck. Take a hose an air it up to be level when the other bags are up. It got me 80 miles to the service center, I could have finished the trip. The motorhome was under warranty but they would not tow it.
The biggest problem was, it was Friday and we got to the service center after hours and they were closed on Saturday, diagnois was on Monday, part was flown in on Tues.
RV particulars:2002 Holiday Rambler
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): Cummins / Allison
Miles:15,000
Year:2002
Break Down Description:
Symptoms: Motorhome leaning bad to one side.
Effect:
Cause: Bad air level switch
2002 Blue Holiday Rambler Endeavor.
Our Toad is a Beetle 2001 Blue.
Full time by 2005 is the goal.
Alaska this summer, let's go!
WB4IEJ is my ham call, what's yours?
Cumming said "there are a lot of bad sensors on the 330 hp" I had them do the 15K on the engine and the lights never came on
RV particulars
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): Cummins / Allison
Miles:15,000
Year:2002
Break Down Description:
Symptoms
Effect
Cause: Bad sensors or water in computer sensor
Would like to suggest to add only one thing and that is cost of a given repair. (Note that some costs have been reported, and yes to those who are going to write in with the following cliche which we have all heard since grade school "If you have to ask about cost, then you should not be trying to be kool like us big, rich guys.")
This would provide some cost-effectiveness data for RV's. Is it better to have a RV that takes a number of small repairs of a few bucks or one that chews $7000 dollars a wack and out of service during your vacation and still has some small repairs. Cost data would tell us that.
Admittedly, at this point, processing all the current data without cost will be very difficult and time consuming, considering that much of it is coming in other than in the requested format. But the non-standard reports are still valuable.
Driveline (Engine, Transmission)
ummins ISB, AllisonMiles:approx 10,000
Year:1999
Break Down Description: (You can add any description of the problem here that you think would help others in understanding the situation and problem.)
Symptoms: Overheating light kept coming on
Effect: I had to slow way down to about 30 mph to keep it off
Cause
ad water pumpOutcome:I was told by Cummins to drive it slowly to Amarillo (about 100 miles away). They replaced water pump and no further problems. They said they had a bad batch of water pumps on this year model rig.
Alan - Driver
Janella - Support
2004 Monaco Diplomat 40' 3 slides
2001 Hyundai Santa Fe
First One:
RV particulars: 2003 NRV Tradewinds LTC
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): Cummins 350 turbo ISC, Allison 6000
Miles: 650
Year: 2003
Break Down Description: Loss of power @ 7,500 ft. elevation.. First trip (shakedown)
Symptoms: Heard a loud bang (like something fell on the floor) just after starting first thing in the morning. Idle RPM ok! No engine warning indicator lights on, humm?
Effect: After putting in gear and driving away slowly (residential area) it felt like the engine was a little weak. Upon pulling onto major street and asking for power only got about 20%. Engine could barely muster 800 RPM while in Drive but 2000 if in Neutral? Drove about a mile then limped back to house to call Cummins.
Cause: The air intake hose between the cold air box and the turbo had come apart because the clamp was not tightened properly. Loss of turbo pressure! Thats what we thought it might be but no boost gage to verify. Unfortunately the separation was where you couldnt easily see it.
NO boost pressure to turbo ---- NO power! Especially at that elevation in the mountains!
Outcome: Cummins was very responsive and arranged to flat bed tow the coach to nearest service center (50 miles). There they made a quick diagnosis and fix. Guilty party was Freightliner, who had installed the air hose and cold box to engine and they didnt hesitate to pick up the tab for the whole mishap.
Jack
RV particulars: 2003 NRV Tradewinds LTC
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): Cummins 350 turbo ISC, Allison 6000
Miles: 3750
Year: 2004
Break Down Description: Loss of power (slow engine shut down) while driving up grade on freeway.
Symptoms: Warning buzzer sounded on dash, followed by check engine indicator light, then red shut down engine indicator light, about 15 seconds later low oil pressure indicator light. Also during this two-minute bells & whistles drill the oil pressure, as indicated on gage, slowly receded to zero.
Effect: Engine was put into automatic shut down mode do to loss in oil pressure.
Cause: Defective oil pressure switch
Outcome: Thanks to cell phone, Cummins was very responsive and had a roadside service tech to me in two hours. Upon arrival the Tech confirmed our phone diagnosis and installed new oil pressure switch and then reprogrammed the ECM to see the new style pressure switch. And yes, the new switch is different and supposedly much less sophisticated and trouble prone than the original. Of coarse, No Chargeall under warrantee!
In spite of the inconvenience I was very happy with the Cummins response to my breakdown, being back underway in less that three hours of calling their 800 emergency number. Also, for what it may be worth; on the QT, I was told this is a common problem with the older ISC engines. I would estimate that my engine was manufactured in early 2002. If you have one, you may want to check it out or upgrade at next service. The Tech also upgraded my ECM software from the original version 11 to version 16 (the latest) but I havent noticed any difference in operation or performance.
Jack
Motorhome:
2001 Tiffin Zephyr, 60,000 miles
450HP Cummins ISM
Allison 6000 Trans.
On a trip to Texas last month, a trucker came alongside and motioned to listen on the CB. I did and he told me I had fluid coming out the rear vent. I stopped and found the Freightliner plastic reservoir had a split in it and the antifreeze was boiling out. Not much of a problem. Got to Freightliner in Amarillo, (opened 24hrs) and had that replaced. Cost 175.00. Left in the morning towards Wichita Falls only to have it overheat again. Called ahead to Freightliner in WF and was informed that my fan switch was defective and the Charge Air Cooler (commonly known as an Intercooler for the turbo)had a crack in it. I went on my way as they had to order the parts anyhow and as long as I kept the MH below 65 and no hills, (none in Texas anyhow) I had no problem. Theycalled when the parts came in and on the way back to AZ I stopped and they installed both parts. I thought I was covered by the CSP insurance from Goodsam, but found out it does not cover the Charge Air Cooler. Nowhere in the contract does it say that however. Anyhow at a cost of another $3000.00 I had it fixed and so far all is well. I had lost power as well due to the split in the Charge air cooler. About 20% or so.
I do not believe the insurance cost for breakdowns if worth it especially on a less than 5 year MH.
Problem: Overheating
On the way back from Florida. (Jacksonville)
Pulled into a rest area, temp gauge went up, spraying fluid all over the place.
'92 Overland Diesel Pusher, Allison Trans, Cummings Diesel.
Great Rig....
Anyway, got stopped, and couldn't do anything that night. Next morn, (Sat.) contacted Cummings and they were great. I replaced the water pump, and attempted to head home. Next thing I know I had no gauges, wipers or dash lights.
Cummins allowed us to stay with them and even connect to a lighthouse and water and sewer. Great people at Cummins.
Contacted Freightliner, had to wait for four days to get in, (something about not taking reservations..yah right..) when they looked at the rig, they confirmed what I had said and without fixing anything they hand me a bill for almost 300.00 I explained that they fixed nothing waould be paid accordingly. They took the rig back in and with my elect. diagram, and some extra relays of mine finished the job. They still tried to get me to pay a bill of over 600.00.
I called their customer service and the bill was reduced to 268.00.
I still paid to much, but I'm learning to choose my battles.
Not a good experience, but still a learning one. We are home now, and I plan on doing some major over hauling of the elect. system set-up. Clean up the grounds and try to get a better understanding of it all.
But we plan on heading out again later this fall, (Oct through May)
We'll keep everyone posted.
Benzy
Benzy
1 1995 sun voyager,Spartan chassis,cummings 210
power solinoid. starter soleinoid
2 99 tradewinds.freightliner,cat 300
I had coach serviced at freightliner of columbia for recall and bad fuel gauge under warranty. they also replaced the chassis batteres under warranty? the very next trip shortly after leaving home the coach shut down and would not start,found battery cable loose, on this same trip ran out of fuel with gauge showing 1/4 tank.
3 pulled in at a grocery store and lost all air pressure. found where a coupling in air line had come apart.
4 blowout inside rear curb side, after limping to tire repair shop and paying $240 to have a used tire installed the coach would not start. shorted starter solenoid and drove the coach home. found that the transmisson neutral sense relay was mounted in compartment behind this tire. the blast from the blowout knocked the relay loose from the socket it was mounted in.
5 when leaving to take coach to trade it in the air conditioner compressor locked up. removed compressor and replaced belt with a shorter belt and took it to tampa.
I now have A new Beaver Santiam just waiting to see what happens now!
2004 quad slide Beaver
2002 F150
1995 Jeep Cherokee
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): 5.9L 300 Cummins/Allison 6Spd
Miles:19.875
Year:03
Break Down Description: (You can add any description of the problem here that you think would help others in understanding the situation and problem.)
Symptoms:Not running right and missing part of time Thought I had water in fuel, changed fuel filter twice over next several days.
How I knew it was pump was to turn switch on with fuel filter loose and not fuel pumping into filter.
Effect
evere jerking and missing when on throttle hardCause: Bad pick up fuel pump.
Outcome
ummins replaced pump, runs great now.
Driveline: Cummins 275ISB, Allison MD3060 6sp
Miles: 13000
Year: Nov 2003
Breakdown Info:
Symptons: Loud Bang when starting up grade from a stop.
Effect: Fwd motion ceased and rearward motion began.
Cause: Universal Joint failed, driveshaft dropped to ground.
Coach had been serviced by selling dealer 30 days/3000miles prior. There was no evidence of grease in failing universal joint. Selling dealer picked up repair cost of $977. Had to wait for 5 days for parts, including Thanksgiving. I now grease driveshaft myself! Is required every 6000 miles.
2001 Allegro Bay DP, Banks Stinger Installed
2007 Wrangler X Unlimited 4WD, Blue Ox Aventa II
Problem/No running lights
Where/ I 95 Sothbound/ Richmond VA
Which meant I couldn't run at night
I took the light switch out, which controls the running lights, which by the way was after I checked all fuses. On the back of the dimmer swith I took a paper clip and crossed jump two connections to give me running lights. I know that's a no no, but you have to do whatever it takes when you're out there. I did keep a very close eye on it and it was find until I got home and found the real problem. Which was a blown fuse I overlooked under the hood. They have two fueses under there both marked number six for running lights, I didn't know that at the time.
98,000 miles
Engine cranked but would not start
Defective engine shutdown solenoid
We had just finished refueling at a Flying J in Indianapolis and still parked at the pump. When I hit the starter the engine cranked but would not start. A diesel mechanic told me once that one thing to check was the shutdown solenoid. My wife turned the ignition on and it did not move. An employee at Flying J reached in and held the solenoid closed while I engaged the starter and it started so that was the problem. We took a bungee and hooked one end to the solenoid linkage, ran it down under the frame and hooked the other end to another point to hold the solenoid closed. We started the engine and drove 1,000 miles back home. Of course, to shut the engine down we had to release the bungee then hook it up again to start the engine. Our son located a new solenoid on Ebay for a fraction of the cost of one in Indianapolis so we had it installed when we returned home and saved quite a few bucks as well as wasting a lot of time hanging around a strange repair shop.
i49traveler
Broken down again. After normal days drive I shut down in parking lot to shop and pick up dinner. Decided to stay over and went to start theengine to relocate to a more level spot. Starter engaged but would not crank the engine.
Towed to GMC dealer on Friday, still waiting for diagnoses on Monday 3/29 at kids house, 200 miles from MH and 500 miles from home.
The difference from last year is we had power in the ignition system and were able to release the parking brakes.
Miles: 32000
RV: 2000 Kountry Star
Symptoms: Yellow Engine Light came on while driving uphill.
Effect: Kept losing Coolant
Cause: Cracked engine block.
Outcome: Cummins replaced block under warranty. Have gone about 4000 miles since repaired with no problems.
2000 Newmar Kountry Star DP
5.9L Cummins
Cliff, Lois, and 2 wolf hybrids
Dee Hood
Dee: You were message #159 concerning breakdown information, and there is no reference to which message you were responding to. You can use the "quote" feature to assist in this area. I have had "King Control" (cruise control unit) problems with my Monaco in the past, and would have an interest in cases like yours. Thanks
I pulled over to the side and stopped. Pushing the buttons did nothing to change the display. Being new to this rig, I didn't know what was going on. The engine was still running and it would move forward in given fuel. I switched off the engine to see if the trans would reset. Big mistake. The engine would not crank.
Called Foretravel tech support and they walked me through a lenghtly check, but it appeared to be the ECU. Required being towed to nearest Allison shop where they confirm ECU failure.
Allison does not rebuild this unit or take your old unit for core charge. The base unit is $2,000.00 plus $820.00 to program said unit.
Equipment Description:
1993 Foretravel GV
Cummins 8.3 (105000 Miles)
Allison MH3060 6 Sp
Side Note: Do not shut off engine if this happens. The engine will have to be jump started so unit can be towed with drive shaft attached.
mvanmeter
The ignition switch was the culprit again. This switch on the Workhorse Chassis is located on the steering column just above the floor. This is the sencond failure in less than 9,000 miles.
A residual from the first tow, last year, was a munged up drive shaft bolt (I think that is a technical term). This time the tow truck operator was unable to undo one of the four bolts and bent the cap to remove the shaft. Parts and labor came to $160 for the drive shaft, another $550 for the diagnosis and replacement of the switch and a fuse. Thank you very much Workhorse! They paid for everything and there are still 30 days on the warranty and 1200 miles!
Goliath is in the process of being traded for a 2004 Soutwind 36E.
Still not real comfortable on the road.
Featherdog
96 Itasca
Freightliner chasis, Cummins engine 300 hp ISB 5.9L, Allison transmission 3000H, 900 miles
Leaving Flying J after refueling and crossing overpass when a loud "clunk" was heard from the rear followed by a deceleration type of effect. Nothing noted under vehicle. Drove to another gas station on other side of overpass. All sensors and guages normal, transmission check normal. Took another short test drive. Same noise followed by rubbing/soft grinding kind of noise. Eventually towed to Freightliner. They will check it out on Monday (due to Easter). Initial inspection appears to be driver's side dual wheel trying to run off axle! Will post follow-up. Refer to longer story under separate Class A post.
edit: Drove MH home on 4/22/04 with everything fixed. Freightliner had to replace the whole left rear end. No explanation on cause. My take, after talking with several people, the two nuts holding the wheel on were either not torqued correctly or just came loose.
* This post was edited 04/24/04 06:07am by Buckeye Bounder *
Driveline: Cummins ISC 330 w/Allison 6 Speed
Miles: 39000
Year: 2001
Breakdown Description: Cruising North on I-95 in Virginia when I lost power steering and a little later engine temp. began to rise. We limped into gas station where hydrolic fluid was ok as was drive belts. Called Spartan who advises hydrolic punp failure or contaminated fluid. Got to campground with aid of roadside assistance and repaired by roadside mechanic in only 5 days.
Symptoms: Sudden failure of power steering with extreem difficulty steering and higher than normal engine temp.
Effect: noted above
Cause: Sheered splines on drive shaft of hydrolic pump which mounts on rear othe air compressor which had a bad bearing.
Outcome: Replaced hydraulic pump, air compressor and related filters and fluids.
'01 Newmar Dutch Star DP
'02 4X4 Jeep Liberty
Retired New Fulltimers
Livin' It and Lovin' It
* This post was edited 04/21/04 06:28pm by WanttotravelDears *
WanttotravelDears[/b] 1996 Winnebago Adventurer 34RQ 460 with Banks system 2006 Chev Colorado crew cab w/Blue Ox tow bar Cassie and Zoe (the bosses)Maltese:);)
Note: Due to invalid formatting, all formatting has been ignored.
A while back I had the same experience in my car. It would die and not start. After about 15 minutes it would start and run fine. about 3 weeks later it repeated. Nothing was showing up. The garage finally told me next time it happens to call the. They came right out and found the cranking sensor was going bad. i didn't even know there was such a thing as a cranking sensor. May not be your problem but its worth a shot.
Don
Don / Sharon Smith
8th year fulltiming
1 high school sweetheart bride of 51 yrs. Sharon
1 long haired mini dauchound...Jake
1997 Beaver Patriot DP
2004 Jeep Rubicon
http://s168.photobucket.com/albums/u189/smithster_photos/
RV particulars: 26' Revcon 250DT
Driveline: Olds 455 gas engine, front wheel drive
Miles: 79,800
Year: 1974
Break Down Description: Coming home from Salt Lake City (mountains of northern Utah, I-15 north)
Symptoms: Sputtering backfiring and stalling when climbing hill Effect: spent 30 minutes fixing it
Cause: plugged fuel filter
Outcome: changed the fuel filter(I always carry a spare) at the next available rest stop, made it home just fine.
Tom Parsons
1974 Revcon 250DT
455 Olds(front wheel drive)
"Engineered Elegance"
2. 43000 miles
3. 1996
4. Symptoms:
After driving over 550 miles from PA to N Carolina, the unit started to act sluggish when starting at a stop light. The light turned green, hit the gas.......hesitation......finally start out and go..
We were 10 miles from the campground.! ! ! Got to the campground, checked in and drove back to the site. Stopped on the road, dropped the toad, and started to back into the site.... Wouldn't move!! Got out looked at things.. saw smoke from oil on the exhaust pipe.. Checked the tranny oil....LOW... Added 3 quarts... Then it would move back into the site.. Got into the site... Shut down and called my
warranty people to set up the repair.
CAUSE: Unknown: I bought the unit used with 43000 miles on it.
Outcome:
Good sam club arranged the tow for the unit at the end of the week.
The Warranty people (National Warranty of Fla INC) worked with the tranny garage (AMMCO- Yeah but it's nationwide)... After the 5 days I moved us to a Beach side motel
with a rental car (while the R/V was towed away) and waited for the R/V to return fixed.
IT DID ! But darn, we had to spend another 4 - 5 day at the beach waiting for AMMCO to get finished.
National Warranty and Good Sam are worth their weight in gold.!!!
Outcome:
The unit (96 Mountain Aire F53 Ford / Tag axle) Works well now..
Failure Mode Analysis:
I put a transmission temp gauge on it to keep track of the temp..
-Add additional trans cooler if needed.
Thinking of a Banks or other Transcommand type module..
-Better shift and clutch wear control.
Change fluids every other year (6 to 8 M miles)
pen
96 Mountain Aire
3757
F-53
Blew heater hose going to rear heater.
Symptom:temp gauge rise, no heat from front heater.
Fix: bypassed heater and filled with water from fresh water tank. If your coach does not have any place where you can hook up your fresh water hose to one of the faucets, you can by an adaptor from any waterbed store. Replaced rear heater hoses once I arived home. (This happened at night, many trucks wizzed by me a couple feet from my head while under coach, not a good feeling.)
Had water pump start leaking
Symptom: temp gauge rise, no heat from heater
Fix: used leak stop until I got to my destination and then replaced.
Blew front heater hose. You'd think I would have replaced all my heater hose from before...
Fix: Bypassed until got to my destination and replaced front hoses
Radiator started leaking
Symptom: Temp gauge rise, no heat from heater (this is starting to get old real fast)
Fix: Copper powder Stop leak. Replaced radiator once I arived home.
Lost brakes
Symptom: Noticed excesive pedal travel when slowing down for cops. So thinking something may not be right, I gave myself plenty of extra stoping distance when I slowed to get off freeway. Hit an open stretch of road with no traffic and did a full test of brakes, I basically had none, I could slow down better by downshifting. Drove real slow to destination.
Fix: Replaced leaking master break cylinder.
I always keep stop leak, oil, antifreaze, trans oil and lots of tools with me at all times.
Coach has ~80K mi GM 454 w/475 trans - Custom FWD drivetrain.
* This post was edited 04/18/04 10:26pm by Daveinet *
Dave
The Flying Fortress
FMCA F298817
'83 Revcon Prince 31' FWD
502 w/Howell/GM 16197427 ECM/Edelbrock MPFI,Thorley's & Magnaflows,
4L85E 4 speed, KoniFSD,
6% grade = wanna drag?
MISC photos
Revconeers Forum
RV particulars:
Driveline Engine Ford 460, Transmission Auto OD
Miles:49,000
Year:91
Break Down Description: Gradual loss of power to the point of not running.
Symptoms: After coming down out of the Smoky Mtns, the 460 began losing power and in only a few miles, just refused to run.
Effect: Coasted to side of road. Would start and run for just a moment, then die. Would immediately die if put in gear.
Cause: Plugged Catalytic Converter
Outcome: Local mechanic changed the fuel filter. Didn't work. A passerby wanted to tear into the distributer. I wouldn't let him. He grumbled and went on his way. Towed to Knoxville. RV Roadhelp was very helpful. Towed us to their lot, leveled us and agreed to tow us to a garage when someone opened on Monday. Later that night towed us to a private garage that agreed to meet us about midnight to work on the unit. The guy spent 3 or 4 hours changing the plugs which I knew I didn't need. I finally suggested disconnecting the exhaust, since it sounded like it couldn't breathe. He did and it ran fine. Had him secure the exhaust open and drove home (10 hours) sounding like a Nascar racer. He charged me $250 to replace the plugs. I get robbed a lot. After getting home, Ford replaced the CC under warranty along with several sensors. Was less than 300 miles from being out of warranty.
Jerry and Katie
More than 20 great years motorhoming and still loving it...
2004 DSDP 3810 (more than I needed...less than I wanted)
2004 Trailblazer (too heavy but well worth dragging)
Driveline (Engine, Transmission):Ford 460 fuel injected, 4 speed
Miles:60K
Year:1991
Break Down Description: Eastbound on I-10 just approaching Blythe, CA doing 60 mph in cruise control. There were several load noises including a tremendous bang on the bottom of the motor home. The engine revved briefly then kicked out of cruise and started coasting down. Application of the gas revved the engine but had no other effect. Coasted off to the side of the road.
Symptoms: No drive power
Effect: Can't go.
Cause: Broken drive shaft, differential destroyed, etc.
Outcome:Vehicle is being repaired in Indio. The most likely scenario according to the shop is that a bearing locked up the axle and destroyed the differential which in turn broke the drive shaft. Incidental damage, inside left rear tire (brand new Michellen), broken generator gas line, one bashed in basement compartment, stepladder in said compartment. Fortunately the compartment and the ladder kept the end of the broken drive shaft from whipping up through the floor of the motor home and possibly damaging us.
* This post was edited 04/20/04 08:05pm by degoldmn *
Dave, Sunny, and the Furpersons
1995 Safari Serengeti 40DP and
1991 Sportscoach M340-Ford (lookin' to sell)
1989 Volvo 740GLE Wagon (toad)
Engine quit south of Ocala, backfired and coasted to the side of the road. Towed to Clearmont, Fl., dealer found bad ign. coil.
Motor home 1997 Winebago 34 ft. Adventurer, Ford 460 mileage 36000
1st zipper break in left front tire Michelin tire south of Live Oak, Fl. Called Good Sam towing service, installed new tire.
2nd Zipper break in Michelin tire inner right rear, tore up around the wheel well and the fender liner, cost $1600.00 to repair, insurance covered it, Michelin denied any problems but did replace the tire if I signed a release.
3rd Zipper break in Michelin tire on inner left rear, tore up around tire and the wheel well and fender liner. Done with Michelin tires, took them off as soon as I got home. These tires were only a little over two years old when I replaced them, they had abot 10,000 miles on them. I always checked the air pressure for 80lb each and every time I took it out. The tires were built in late 2001 and they were LT236/85R16 load range E XPS Rib.
2004 Gulf Stream 36 ft Sun Voyager triple slide
Workhorse W22 8.1
2004 Saturn VUE w/stowmaster towbar
Two Ole Pharts & One Little CocaPoo named Cuddles
My problem has been reported a few times, once preceding this.
RV particulars: Allegro 33'
Driveline: 454, 3 speed
Miles: 51,000
Year: 1990
Symptoms: Backfire
Effect: Shutdown
Cause: Coil Module
Outcome: Works ok to date
We were eastbound I-70 just into St Louis.
Frank & Nancy
Allegro w/big tanks
01' Satrun LW200 TOAD
Roadmaster Sterling
Brake Buddy w/Breakaway and Remote
DRIVELINE: Ford 460 and ford trans
MILES: approx 40,000
YEAR: 95/96
BREAKDOWN PARTICULARS: after driving approx 200 miles fm home, stopped for fuel on the Maine tpk, and saw a large puddle of pink fluid on the ground under the unit.. trans fluid.. large puddle leaking from somewhere around the bellhousing...
SYMPTOMS: leaking trans fluid at gas stop..
EFFECT: Unknown - i called a wrecker and got towed back home (to my dealer) $900 paid for by dealer - unit was used and still under 30 day warranty)
CAUSE: well, the dealer pulled the tranny and sent it to a transmission shop, and they could find nothing wrong... all speculated the wrong type of trans fluid had been added at the last transmission service - this tranny is apparently fussy about the specific type of trans fluid you put in.. (sorry i dont remember the particulars)
OUTCOME: sold the rv at wholesale - i was souered on the whole rv thing and stayed away until this past november when i bought a new winne journey... with extended warranty..
bob c
riverside ri
DRIVELINE: Ford 460 w/ford transmission
MILES: approx 41000
YEAR: 95/96
BREAKDOWN DESC: While heading out of town for my next RV Vacation to Bristol TN (nascar races, etc)
SYMPTOMS:i got approx 45 miles from home and heard a thump thump - EFFECT: the unit started to shake rattle and roll all over - i thought the cabinets were gonna fall off the wall..
CAUSE - turns out one of the belts let go in one of the brand new perelli tires (when i bought the unit approx 2-3 months earlier, there were 2 tires needing replacement, the deal with the dealer was he would replace those, and i would pay for(with good discount) the other 4... of course specified tires of proper size, load range, etc..
the vehicle was not overloaded, 4 adults, cloths and food for week, full tank of fuel, app 1/2 tank of water, pulling a pontiac sunfire on a dolly...
(ps this was the second tire to go in a week - the first one went as i was leaving the dealer who had just attached the electronics for the dolly - 1/4 tank of fuel, no water, no food clothes or passengers..
this is when i got rid of the MH... 2 incedents in 2 trips a month or so apart, each ruining a long planned vacation..
bob casale
riverside, ri
The other things can be prevented somewhat, like old fuel, or plumbing problems. Proper fuel additives like Stabil, before storage, or whatever to prolong gas life ( or diesel life ), and proper draining / winterizing of fresh water components. Ruins your day in a hurry to discover a leak in the pipes from freezing. :-)
TJ Class A
Driveline (8.1L Vortec, Allison Transmission):
Miles: 3600
Year: 2003
Break Down Description: Leaving a dealership after some warranty work; 1 mile away from delaership, two miles from the RV park where we were staying.
Symptoms: Loud noise between pilot and co-pilot seats, no other indication of a problem.
Effect: Serpentine belt is frayed, and has (2) 7" gouges (belt is onlt about 1/4 wide in areas)
Cause: We believe something was left on the engine at the dealership and it fell into the belt, causing damage.
Outcome: Need to have the belt replaced (May 5th). It will be towed (as per Workhorse) to another repair facility which is approximately 35 miles away.
Yes, this can be annoying. Especially when you are a fulltimer. We had unrelated warranty work performed at a dealership close to the RV park where we are staying until June. One of the repairs was verifying a recall with hydraulic hoses too close to the engine. About a mile from the dealership, we heard a loud bang right between the seats. No loss of power, and everything else seemed OK. Drove back to the park (about two miles), and the next day, while crawling under the coach, I saw the damage to the serpentine belt. We called Workhorse, and they recommended not driving it. The belt is still intact.
2003 Southwind 36B
2003 Ford Focus (the little red toad)
A darling wife and two cats!
Quando omni flunkus moritati (when all else fails, play dead)
Marty & Peg & 2 cats
2005 Tiffin Phaeton 40QDH/350HP Cat/MH3000
2009 Ford F150 4x4/Brake Buddy
2011 Harley Softail Heritage/Rampage Motorcycle Lift
Full-Timing-10 years and counting!
Looking for a purpose in life, try Habitat for Humanity RV-Care-A-Vanners!
The problem with the Torque converter going out was caused by my own stupidity. I usually drop down in gears when coming to a stop sign to allow the engine to help in braking. When I left the stop sign I accelerated OK in 2nd gear, but skipped a couple and went to neutral and stepped on the accelerator. The engine raced up to some ungodly rpm and in a panic I immediately dropped the tranny into DRIVE which blew the converter. Moral of the story don't rev diesel engine in neutral and then engage transmission.
Jim P
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): F-450 Ford (8?ltr)
Miles:9,000
Year:2004
Break Down Description: Strange smell, brakes pull right, loss of power steering
Symptoms:Nice odor of raw diesel
Effect:Loss of function in brakes and power steering
Cause
uptured power steering hoseOutcome: Repaired by ford dealer after 2 days waiting.
Noticed strange metallic smell and wen stopped for traffic light vehicle pulled hard to the right. Stopped in Home Depot parking lot and called Coach Net who contacted tow truck. Driver insisted to tow from the rear. Delivered to dealer after closing. Next day dealer found the power steering hoses were routed against a bracket and rubbed hole in hoses. Parts delivered the next afternoon. All repair covered under warranty. Now tires are wearing incorrectly and are bowed out at bottom since towing. Tow company insists not caused by tow from rear. I insisted there was a problem when reported to dealer. Dealer and tow driver refused to correct. Problem and story to be continued.
i'm broken down in tucumcari new mexico with a broken hydraulic fan motor. i'm in a 1993 monaco dynasty with a 250hp cummins 8.3L engine. coming out of texas last night i got a high engine light and had her towed to tucumcari new mexico. the hydraulic fan does not engage fully causing her to heat up. any body have any ideas of a fix or where i can get this part out here. I'm stranded and the truck stop is trying to find this part. any help would be greatly appreciated. I'm along way from home. I've my no cell coverage out here.
I'm in the hampton hotel room 105
1-505-461-1111
thanks
Robert
Ryan & Jenny
1995 32' monaco dynasty
Problem: when going up a small are larg incline, MH feels like it's gonna breakdown, jerks, hesitates, etc., then goes ok. This problem on manifests itself when at operating temperature.
Solutuion: Coil bad. breaks down when hot. Replace coil and not problems.
1998 Holiday Rambler Vacationer 32 Ft.
Tom, Kathy and Sydney
milge it happened. I learned alot that day about my Allegro and the cat.
I have a '93 Imperial with a Ford 460. I have had similar problems to what Lil Truckr described. I think that I found the problem, (at least part of it) on mine is the knife switch on the negative side of the battery.
I was driving down the road and lost power, the horn honked and then the engine died. I suspected the switch, jumped out and moved it, never opened it though. As soon as I touched the switch, I had power again.
Im not sure if this is normal,I have only owned my RV since October, but with mine, when the switch is closed, the horn honks. That was my indicator that I had lost battery power.
Mike & Theresa
'93 Holiday Rambler Imperial 35
Driveline: 454 V-8
Miles: 173,000
Year: 1989
Break Down Description: Snapped left steering linkage
Symptoms: Left front wheel wildly flopping left and right, will not track with right front wheel.
Effect: Bucking like a bronc, inability to steer, wildly veering any direction it wants to.
Cause: Indiana Potholes
Outcome: 2 day wait while replacement parts arrive from St. Louis.
2 weeks ago, I-44 soutbound, Troy Indiana, happened on a truckstop off-ramp.
ET1(SS) Galen Young, USN Submarine Service - retired
1989 Fleetwood Southwind 30'6", 454 V8
full-timing in Maine
Ya gotta love MH's with a jaquzzi
330 Cat, Allison 6Speed
Miles:4,000
Year:2003
Break Down Description: Loss of electrical power.
Effect:Loss of transmission shifting and all gauges
Outcome: Repaired by Freightliner Lancaster, Pa
Was on my first long distance trip with my 1st RV from NJ to Reno Air Races, left NJ at 0 dark 30 and got to Harrisburg, Pa and noticed my alt gauge well below normal, and then immediately got the alt light on the dash, pulled off at next exit got to the toll booth and the trans wouldn't shiftdown out of 6th. Rolled out from the booth in 6th, and added pedal very, very slowly until I could find a place to park. Stopped there and called freightliner Harrisburg, they said it would take a couple of days till they could get to it, they reccomnded I call Freightliner Lancaster, Pa (40 miles away). Lancaster said they could deal with it on second shift after 5pm. It was 2 pm now. I started the Gennie and thought to try to put a charge on the batteries, so I would have shifting, and low and behold, I found out an RV secret (at least to me) that the engine would run fine with the Gennie on as well as shift. Drove the 40 miles with my Gennie on and got there about 3pm. The Freightliner folks finally got to my Rig about 7:30pm and replaced a bad alternator and were done by 11pm. They let me park for the night in their lot and took off at 6am.
It has beeen working fine ever since.
Alas, I have no signature, Sigh
2003 Discovery 38U
2004 Z-71 Suburban
Aventa II, and Blue Ox Base Plates
Brake Buddy
330 Cat, Allison 6Speed
Miles:6,000
Year:2003
Break Down Description: Loss of Port side Rear inner tire.
Effect:Need to replace tire.
Outcome: Repaired by TA Truckstop Albuquerque, NM
Being a new RV'er, I failed to check my tire pressures as I should have, the Port side outer must have been low pressure, causing the innner to wear prematurely, after the tire wore down to the belt, the outer then started to handle the gaff wearing down to half tread as well.
Spent the night in WalMart (Saturday) and went to TA in the AM. I had TA remove the fronts and use them to replace the rears and bought two new fronts.
You live and learn, I now check my tires like a fiend every chance I get. Every morning, every fuel stop and every other chance I get.
I am even thinking of getting a tire pressure monitoring system.
330 Cat, Allison 6Speed
Miles:10,000
Year:2003
Break Down Description: Loss of all instruments
Effect:No idea whats going on with engine, speed, fuel.
Outcome: Repaired??? by Freightliner, Lakewood, NJ
I was on a trip to Myrtle Beach, South Carolina via Lurray Caverns Va, stopped for fuel on 95 just over the border into NC, after fueling, started the engine and pulled out and then realized my fuel gauge was at E, the saw that all my gauges were pegged at zero. I knew I had a full tank of fuel, and I use a Garmin GPS which gave me a speed, so I continued on my trip and when I was going north of DC on 95, the instruments came on again, only to die again a few hundred miles later.
Brought it to Freightliner and they said that the wire plugs worked loose from the EDC, they tighten them (supposedly) and the dash was back.
Put the rig up for the winter and took it out for a trip to Fla in April, got all set (CHECKED THE TIRES) drove about 50 miles and say goodbye to the dash again. So off I go, no dash.. I got to my brothers in Florida and played with the suspect connections and viola, we have dash again. On the way home, I stop at Lazy Days, stay for a day looking (drooling) over other RV's,no problems (off course). Head home and get to just north of DC( I think this area is part of the Bermuda Triangle), and it's toodle-loo to the dash again. Back to Freightliner and once more they clean the contacts and use dielectric grease on the connectors. I picked it up today, and we shall see what we shall see. If it craps out again, I will make an appt with Freightliner, Gaffney, SC to be looked at.
RV particulars:
Driveline: 454 V-8
Miles: 173,000
Year: 1989
Break Down Description: Snapped left steering linkage
Symptoms: Left front wheel wildly flopping left and right, will not track with right front wheel.
Effect: Bucking like a bronc, inability to steer, wildly veering any direction it wants to.
Cause: Indiana Potholes
Outcome: 2 day wait while replacement parts arrive from St. Louis.
2 weeks ago, I-44 soutbound, Troy Indiana, happened on a truckstop off-ramp.
There is no I-44 in Indiana...
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): Workhorse 8.1 liter, GM 4 speed
Miles: 23000
Year: 2001
Break Down Description: (You can add any description of the problem here that you think would help others in understanding the situation and problem.)
Symptoms: No ignition
Effect: No spark, no start. Checked battery connections and it started right up.
Cause: Defective ignition switch
Outcome: Replaced switch
Bill K
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): Workhorse 8.1 liter w/Gm 4 speed
Miles: 21000
Year: 2001
Break Down Description: (You can add any description of the problem here that you think would help others in understanding the situation and problem.)
Symptoms: Vibration, shuddering, noises
Effect: Able to drive by continually adding ATF until reaching service center
Cause: Leaking ATF at emergency brake system
Outcome: Placed on lift, tightened connections, OK since
RC Crown ImperialDriveline (460, C6):
Year:91
March 00
Miles:100000
Symptoms:No Power under load, let foot off gas and it would pickup
Speed.
Effect:30 mph
Cause:Fuel Pump
Outcome
March 00 Thats right, 1 week later
Miles:101000
Symptoms:No Power under load, let foot off gas and it would pickup
Speed.
Effect:30 mph
Cause:Fuel Pump
Outcome
April 02 2 years later
Miles:106000
Symptoms:No Power under load, let foot off gas and it would pickup
Speed.
Effect:30 mph
Cause:Filter on Fuel Pump
Outcome
Filter on pump had brown tinge. Unable to shine flashlight through mesh. Unable to buy just the filter from Ford. I cleaned it with gas and blew it with air untill it was clean. Reinstalled pump and tank. Cost $100
Run great ever since.
MIke
91 Holiday Rambler Imperial 37
F460 G-hog
Toad: 2up Toyota
Northern Illinois
Our Travels and Tips Blog
Friday 14 2004 leaving on a 10 day trip. Got 10 miles from home and the check trans light came on and the trans started shifting up and down. Had it towed to Gibbs international to look at trans. One of the worst places I have ever been they were rude, talked to me like I was dirt. For the rest of my life I will spit when I drive by the place. They kept the RV for 4 days when I drove over to see what was going on and was told they couldn't find the problem. I arranged to have the RV towed to Cal Cummings. They are always great to deal with. They had the rig repaired in 2 hours.
Turned out to be the plug under the excelerater peddle. Gibbs ruined my vacation if I would have gone to Cummings I would have been on the road in 3 or 4 hours.
Jim & Ann and our two Corgi's Scooter & Polly
2005 Winnebago Voyage 35A
Workhorse Vortec & Allison
Honda CRV Tow Car
JimReling@sbcglobal.net
Now comes the fun... sit down and enjoy the story.
Second trip out, going to Lake Havasu of all places.
About 25 miles from home driving along nice n smooth, the coach started smoking alot from behind, other cars were honking at us, so I pulled over and stopped. Looked underneath, only to find my transmission spilling out fluid everywhere. I had fluid all over my boat and everything. First I thought the the pump went out, but after having my whole rig towed to a trans shop in Lancaster CA, it turned out to be the cooler lines came loose for some reason and were leaking bigtime...I had to install a brass fitting and a short section of hi-pressure hose to fix the problem. Strange thing is both lines started leaking at the same time, for no reason. 4 quarts of fluid and 3 hours later, I am back on the road.
Next - I am not done yet. Same trip.
We get about 2 hours from Havasu, climbing up a slight grade towing my 22ft. boat. The engine suddenly loses all power, popping, banging, finally coming to a stop along the side of I-40. Outside temp. is about 101 at this time in the afternoon. This time I was really baffled. I thought the fuel pump went, or timing chain, or...After trouble shooting one thing at a time and repeatedly failing to get the engine started again, it turned out that the coil in the HEI ignition got smoked. Not sure why this happened. Well, it turns out I had every replacement part with me except that coil. Good thing we had cell phones...I called my good friend who lives in Havasu to get me a coil, and he drove 2 hours to bring me a coil. Oh yeah, we sat on the side of the road for about 4 1/2 hours by now, generator on, AC on, kid playing PS-2. Finally my friend shows up around 9:30pm with new coil and 12 pack of beer, I install the new coil, engine starts right up, I slam a beer and I am again back on the road. We finally ended up getting to our camp spot at 11:45pm that nite. I originally left for the trip at 6am in the morning (which should have been a 5 hours max. drive).
Now... 2 trips later
The coil burns out again. This time, on the famous Grapevine hill here in SoCal, again towing my boat. This time I buy another coil and it has this extra little metal "ground" pc. that goes inside the distributor cap and functions as the ground for the ignition... I didn't have this little thing in there before, not sure why it was not there. Some experienced GM guys told me that that ground terminal is needed as a ground for the whole ignition system, or the coil could (or will) short out. Make sure you have this metal ground pc. in your HEI ignition. It goes in the center of the tach and 12v terminals and the coil itself sits on top of and grounds against it via 4 screws. On your ignition harness connector that plugs into the cap, there's 3 wires. One for tach, one for 12v and the center black is for ground.
I've been on 9 more trips since all this, and have not had another problem...
Rich Schultz
PUREROCK MOTORSPORTS
2002 KTM 520sx, 2005 Yamaha WR250, 2004 Yamaha YZ85
2003 Ski Supreme Tournament Boat w/Mercruiser 350MPI
2001 Holiday Rambler Vacationer 35ft. double slideouts Ford chassis
Custom 16 x 8.5 enclosed toy hauler
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): Bounder, Chevy chassis
Miles: 35,000
Year: 1996
Break Down Description: (You can add any description of the problem here that you think would help others in understanding the situation and problem.)
Symptoms: Thump,thump,thump
Effect: Stopped
Cause: Flat on rear outer dual
Outcome: All new rear tires
Carol and Morgan Sabbar
Ken and Jeff, the teenagers
1996 Bounder 34P Here it is by Bryce Canyon:
My web site: http://www.sabbarpublications.com
THOMAS
The same problem happened to my2004 Bounder 1 month ago. I finally traded it in for a diesel MH. I swear not to buy work horse engine again.
Make: Pace Arrow
Year: 1984 (on February-built, '84 chassis)
Symptoms: Noise like AC compressor engagement, on and off while driving.
Effect: Starters burning up (4 in 6 weeks)in 1999, and mechanics couldn't find the reason.
Cause: Chevrolet decided to replace their ignition/starter in-line solenoid with a small relay with points. Mechanics weren't aware of a switching device existing, so didn't look for it. It was mounted to the engine, curb-side front, hidden behind wires and hose bundles. In frustration and determination, I read through my Chev Motorhome Chassis Service Manual (glad I ordered it on Motorhome Magazine's recommendations years ago) and discovered the bulletin where Chevrolet decided to go back to the old (Ford type) solenoid in March of '84, 2 weeks after mine was built. The little relay's points carbon up over time thus shortening the point gap so that a bump in the road could close the ignition circuit to the starter, thus engaging it while the engine was already running, and overheating the starter's motor, burning it up. I was aware of the noise when the starter engaged on the road but thought it was an odd AC compressor sound or something, although I couldn't zero in on it 'cause it only happened while we were moving and I couldn't get under the rig to look.
Outcome: I located the relay, removed it and broke it open. Sure enough, the point on one side had carboned up so much the gap between it and the opposing point was a third of what it should have been. I could've cleaned it and put it back, but eventually it would have left me stranded again. So I replaced it with the solenoid originally used in Chev motorhome chassis', and in the process cleaned up and improved some of the wiring (soldered & sealed connections, and better bundling & routing). Ne'r a problem since.
1/2 Canadian
1984 Pace Arrow traded for
2006 Beaver Monterey
1997 Ford Explorer Limited 4X4
Flyfishing in my blood
Good Sam Life Member 1334373, 29 yrs. RVing
Family Motorcoach Member F384437, Beaver Ambassador Club, CAT Engine Owner's Club
4 speed Allison and 8.2 L Detroit
Freightliner terrific about overnighting a new EDC both times to a Freightliner service center.
No charge, just inconvenience.
* This post was edited 05/30/04 01:26pm by waltbens *
17,500 miles
2001
Brought coach used in NC and drove back to CA in 6 days with no problems. Had coach serviced by recommended Newmar dealer, transmission service, oil & filter change (specified 6000 mile service, radiator checked and stabilizer added. Took off with bride of 45 years for our first big trip. Up to Vegas and the the canyon area. On way to Bryce had two back fires when using exhaust brake. Called Cummings in Saint George and was told probably a sensor but sounded like engine was fine, just don't use exhaust brake. Which I didn't. Looked for peak torque and governor rpm in manual and on engine and couldn't find it for gearing down specs. Heading down 95 toward Monument Valley I blew out the Turbo. 75 miles out of Blanding, no cell phone service, no people, very little traffic, no place to pull over. After 2 miles found a dirt road. Drove to Blanding and back to motorhome and met tow truck and back to Blanding where all places to eat were closed. Motorhome now in Grand Junction, CO and I'm in CA 850 miles away. Thank God for Good Sam they handled the towing great. Personally I think the back fires affected the turbo. Wife is talking about For Sale signs. Just kidding we had a great time except for 3 days.
Xoffset
460 Ford
E40 Transmission
Would Not start
We were coming back from RV camping in NC, left Whittier NC @ 0800. No problems other than rain and hauling our two motorcycles in an open trailer in the rain (that will be corrected before we go again). Ran over normal road debris (retreads, sticks). Stop in Welcome Center in Ga, shut down the coach for rest stop. Got back in and turn the key and it would not start. All lights work everything came on but it would click but nor start. Call Sam's ERS, this is Memorial Day, someone showed within an hour. Tried to jump it off this did not help. Meanwhile my wife called the RV center where we bought the pre-owned coach and the service dept was open. She told the service mgr what had happened. He said the starter is stuck, have your husband tap it with a hammer as you try and start it, then bring it in the next and they will ck it out. So I crawled up the coach, and there was the wire from the solenoid to the starter hanging, not attached to the starter. I had my wife turn on the coach, I touched the starter, she started up and we only lost two hours. When we got home I made a permanent fix to the wire and tie wrapped everything up. Not to bad for our first breakdown, had the Gen running and made coffee while we waited.
05 KSDP 3910 330 Cummins, Spartan Chassis
Nick&Sheila Club "Same 2 member for 31 years"
Fulltiming in Jacksonville, Fl
good luck
Winnebago View on Sprinter 3500 chassis. No toad. Now up to two Standard Poodles who sit in the front seats when we are parked...It's alright, they both have licences.
Ford 460
7,200 miles
Transmission would not shift out of lower gears. Called Ford, they had the mh towed on flatbed truck to Ford dealership 100 miles away.
Problem: Sensor between speedometer and transmission had lost fluid.
Replaced sensor: Problem solved.
Cost to Ford: $2200...
Brooksie
'03 Winnebago Brave 34D
2 dogs and one great cat
After fueling, the bus would not start. Bus finally did start, but the ignition switch was smoking from an electrical fire.
Cause: there was a bare wire near the alternator that caused a spark to jump to the top of the fuel solinoid. This caused the solinoid to burn up and the ignition switch.
Until I could get home, removed fuel solinoid and removed the center from the solinoid. This allowed the engine to start. To turn off the engine, I had to remove the fuel solinoid and push a screw driver into the hole to shut off the fuel to the engine.
I couldn't find an ignition switch and used 2 on-off switches to rig a way to start the engine.
Rod
This coach was a 5.9 Cummins on a Freighliner and you could crawl under the engine where the primary fuel filter was equpped with a small plastic plunger on the bottom of the filter that you pressed to release accumulated water from the fuel line. Its a nasty job because their is no way to keep the fuel from running down your arm, but it worked! Fired the engine back up, no warning light, drove the remaining 2,000 mile trip without a hitch.
Always, ALWAYS, keep fresh (truckstop) diesel in the tank, and when experiencing rapidly cooling, damp, weather conditions don't run the fuel down past half empty. I had fresh fuel, but more air than fuel in the tank produced condensation that caused big problems.
Dave & Robin
Extended Travelers
2012 Dodge 3500, Cummins H.O.,Club Cab
Long Bed, Laramie Long Horn
Max Tow, 4:10 rear end
2013 DRV Tradition, 385 RSS,Full Body Paint,Trail Aire Tri Glide, & Center Point air ride
Miles:80K
Year: 84
Symptoms: Loss of power
Effect: Flooding
Cause: Crud in float valve
Outcome: Carb full of black kitty litter.
100 miles earlier, I had put in some Red Line fuel system cleaner, which was well recommended. It apparently did its job well, and loosened up a lot of crud in the fuel system. A piece of crud apparently jammed the float valve, resulting in flooding, and loss of power. When I removed the air cleaner top, the carb was completely awash with gasoline. There were puddles of gas sizzling in the pockets on top of the intake manifold. I did th usual rapping of the float area with a screwdriver handle with no effect. Slipping a hacksaw blade in the slot between the primary and secondary barrels allowed me to work the float up and down to allow the crud to pass, and the flooding stopped. HA! Success.
But the motor ran rough and unevenly.
Removing the top of the carb revealed the float bowl to be half full of what appeared to be black kitty litter, evidently charcoal from the emissions canister. I am guessing that the gasoline overflow into the canister caused some charcoal granules to float back up the vent tube due to a failed check valve in the canister. I removed the carb, disassembled it and blew it out with a couple cans of spray cleaner. All hoses going to and from the charcoal canister were plugged with available screwdriver tips and bolts to continue the trip.
I should add that my genset runs better than it ever has since I added the Red Line fuel system cleaner.
* This post was edited 06/13/04 03:20am by bill h *
I'll follow up tomorrow.
Well, tomorrow came and is almost gone. They never did get to us today. So, they put us back in "our spot" and said tomorrow looks much better. They are very polite.
It is now Thursday night.
After pulling apart the emergency brake assembly, it has been diagnosed as a bad switch. It is acting very erractically now. The tech took it out for a 10 mile test drive after he pulled apart the emergency brake assembly, and for the first 8 miles it was fine. As we slowed to a stop, it went off again. This time playing with the emergency brake handle made it go away. Next we drove with the wire off the switch...no problem. Once we re-connected it, the problem came back. All other brake systems check out fine, and Workhorse is overnighting a new switch. I have to say these folks are extremely polite. Each night they make sure we have electric and plenty of water. They have also offered their dump station when we finally do get on the road. Maybe tomorrow.
OK...it is now Sunday, June 20th. Happy fathers day. We left the fine folks at Sonnys on Friday afternoon. We drove about 120 miles with no issues. Stayed two nights at South of the Border on I95, then headed out this morning. Got about 140 miles and the brake light/alarm went off again. Touched the emergency brake pedal...stopped. 10 minutes later, back on. Touched pedal, stopped. Eventually even moving the pedal did not help. Drove to a park in Skippers, VA and called Workhorse. They will see where we can get in tomorrow. So, here we sit...and we thought we had it fixed.
Ok, it is now Tuesday night. Workhorse sent us to a truck repair facility (a Workhorse sponsored repair facility) in Rocky Mount, NC. It was 60 miles the wrong direction, and instead of being towed (Workhorse really wanted to tow us) we drove....with the chime going off all the time. I did not know I could have silenced it by pressing the trip button. Anyway, two days at the repair facility and it could not be diagnosed. We did find out that if it was truly a brake failure, we would not only get the light, but also a buzzer (not a chime) and a dash message. This is telling us that the parking brake is still applied...it is not. We also know the emergency brake swith works because when it is disengaged, the slides/jacks will not operate. We simply have an errant alarm. It has been determined it is safe to drive, we can silence the alarm, and now have an appointment at a Workhorse repair facility in Central Square, NY on Monday, June 28th. Hopefully I can post a solution then.
Oh, and the kicker....we stopped for fuel just past the NC/VA line, applied the brake, shut off engine, filled up, started engine, released brake...light is now off. Don't you hate intermittent problems?
Well, it is now 7/1/2004. We had the problem come back as we hit WV, and had it all the way to Clay, NY. Well, the light was on but we now know how to silence the chime. We had an appointment in Central Square, NY for Monday, June 28th. As luck would have it, when we went to leave for our appointment, we released the brake, and all is fine. We even drove it an extra 20 miles (took the long way to the repair shop) only it would not fail. They looked at it for about two hours, but could not find a thing. They are going to order pressure switches, but unless it happens again (I'm sure it will, only not whiles we are in this area...with my luck anyway) there is not much they can do. There are no codes from the computer. So, unless it happens while we take the coach to the dump station every two weeks (until we leave July 19th), we will just have to wait and see. Workhorse is still aware of it, and has been VERY cooperative.
Marty and Peg
* This post was last edited 07/01/04 07:36pm by an administrator/moderator *
We bought the RV in a hurry as we had a family emergency back east and had just sold our house.
The previous owner was so darned nice and the RV has features that were ahead of their time. So we bought it.
He told us that there are 2 little switches 'right here on the dash' and this is how to use them: "When you are going up a steep hill, if you start bogging down, flip this one to switch over to the auxiliary fuel tank which has a shorter fuel line. If that doesn't work, here is another switch..flip it to turn on the electric fuel pump. That pump is located under the steps. Works every time." And sitting in his yard, he showed my husband how it would work.
Well we were in the Valley in California; had to bring the RV on a winding narrow road up a mountain to where we were staying.
So we hit the first hill, the engine bogged down, my husband hit the first switch, nothing...hit the second switch and the engine stalled totally and wouldn't start again.
It was 8 at night, 2 lane road and some California Forestry Dept. firefighters stopped near us and diverted traffic around us. Then the Highway Patrol came and called a tow truck. We asked if anyone could just push us over to the other side of the road to a big pull off so we could decide what to do. The CHP did that.
We called our son and he came to where we were (a few hours had passed) and he said maybe using those switches didn't work as the guy said, maybe doing the '2 switch thing' had caused a vapor lock in the 108* heat and it would now start. It did. We made it to our son's house safely.
What we learned when the guys checked out the motor home was that the engine uses a mechanical gas pump which is on the engine in front. The auxiliary gas tank is actually under the bed in the rear of the coach further away than the main tank, and there is no fuel pump under the steps. That is where the solenoid for the switch from one tank to the other is placed.
The electric pump is in the back as well and was dead and had been for awhile, and is hooked to the main tank anyway. The auxiliary tank is used only for the generator. So when he used the second switch nothing happened and the engine stalled.
After the electric fuel pump was replaced, we had no problem going up hills, as using it boosts the gas flow when needed. We keep an extra pump 'just in case.' The guys also replaced the original parts and fluids, belts and hoses etc.
There were so many inconsistencies in what that guy told us, we realized later he didn't know much about the RV at all. And we knew less at the time. We know much more now and it is all written down now as well.
To end the story on a good note, we have lived in the RV for nearly a year, we have put 12,000 miles on it. The coach is set up well and has the features we like so we are happy with it.
Miles:n/a
Year:1988
Break Down Description
eaded north from San Diego at beginning of mountain pass. Wind blowing hard, gusting at 60MPH Symptoms: First heard a flapping sound like the awning had broken loose. Pulled over when we could get off highway. Nearly Christmas. Effect: Roof on driver's side lifted by the wind gusts, ripped up as far back as bathroom, destroying trim at top of shower and giving me and husband more grey hair. Got to San Bernardino where CamperWorld told us they don't do insurance work. A small RV repair shop owner told us the following:
Cause: Suncrest known to have this problem. Later after removing the strip which covers the screws it was revealed that only one of each 4-5 screws was actually in place. If you own a Suncrest, you might want to check this.
Outcome: Couldn't have it fixed before Xmas.. so husband put 7 screws in a line neatly into top part of roof overhang to hold it down (it is a 1988..who will notice a few extra screws). Caulked excessively. When we got to destination and removed strip, husband put a screw in every hole where Suncrest had not. Caulked everywhere needed and some places not needed. Removed strip on passenger side, found same lack of screws...added screws where needed, and for good measure put 7 in a line above in roof overhang to match those on opposite side.
6 Mo later, have to recaulk occasionally and shower top trim under skylight is now strips of white duct tape till I find a way to replace the ripped up trim. Want to own stock in caulk and duct tape companies.
Addendum: Wind is a bummer in an RV anyway. If you hit high gusts, park it. Hopefully facing into the wind or tail into the wind. Where we had our incident, there were cars and trucks off the road and a truck container blown off on one lane.
Driveline HR Rambler Endeavor DP
Miles: 11K
Year: 2000
Break Down Description: (You can add any description of the problem here that you think would help others in understanding the situation and problem.)
Symptoms: Flat tire (blowout)
Effect: Stranded 4 hours
Cause: Hit unmarked construction in Virginia
Outcome: $$$ for new tire
Cause: valve head broke off stem, probably just fatigue as weld broke. Happened about 3 miles from our campground in Lanacaster Pa. We stayed with a cousin, completed our trip and drove our toad home. Three weeks later picked up MH. Run like a kitten coming the 600 mile home. Hope it does so for another 92,000 miles.
Driveline (8.1 Vortec, 4L80E GM 4-speed Auto):
Miles: 18,500
Year: 2001
Break Down Description: Alternator putting out 15.5 volts (to high)
Symptoms:
Effect: Not sure but could boil batteries, chassis & house
Cause: Appeared to be alternator
Outcome: Replaced alternator and ignition switch
Warrantied the alternator, but the service shop also found a problem with burnt connectors on ignition switch. Said this could have caused the alternator to put out more voltage due to sensing circuit in alternator thinking it needed more.
Bob Bowers
2006 Monaco Camelot PDQ 400ISL Cummins
Colorado Springs, CO
Traveling east on I-40 just west of Albuquerque when I lost so much power I couldn't climb the hill from the Rio Puerco. Towed to an rv park cg on Sunday and Monday morning I limped into Alb to see if I could get it fixed.
Turned out to be a badly plugged fuel filter that made the engine hot (this did not show on the temp gauge) and it destroyed the guts of both cat coverters. All the cat innards flowed downstream to the muffler and plugged it completely. If anyone runs into this large loss of power, recommend you have a mechanic shop put flow meter on the hard points to see if it has happened to you.
Mechanic said he'd been doing work on cars for 31 years and never ran across this.
Steve & Beth
2002 F250 Lariet Crewcab PSD 4x2
Non-towing: 20 mpg Towing: 14.5 mpg
1996 Sunnybrook 27RKF
Garmin Streetpilot 2610
Our Home Page
A question about a problem I am having with my Onan Generator in my '99 32Y Southwind.
Generator starts on its own - realize it is probably a short somewhere as the starter keeps running. Any thoughts or ideas about whwre to start.
argie71 (Ron)
Ron & Yvonne, Ringo (the cat) and Genji (the pug)
'99 32Y Southwind - Ford F53 w V10
RV Particulars: 2002 Itasca Horizon CAT 330 Allison Tran 6 speed
Mileage: 37,600
Breakdown Description: Traveling South on I-25 rolling in Trinidad, Co about to go over Raton Pass. Lossing power
Symptoms: RPM needle is irratic and I am losing power, managed to make into a WalMart parking lot. Checked tran fluid level is was good.
Effect: No power, could not get over 35/40 mph. Called Allison. I was instructed, if I can, drive to Stewart/Stevenson in Pueblo, Co. (80 miles away). Service manager will be there to meet us. It was Sunday aftenoon.
Cause: Tran wiring harness had detached from the frame and landed on the exhaust manifold.
Outcome: with wiring harness repaired and properly attached, all's well.
Addendum: that was the longest drive of my life from Trinidad to Pueblo.
Second, it took several hours for the tech to find the problem. Discussed with Winnebago, they were not aware of this ever happening before. On the forum, I read where someone reported that fully extended jacks can cause problems with wiring detaching. I did very much appreciate the good service at Stewart/Stevenson and that Allison paid the bill.
2002 Itasca Horizon 36' DP CAT 330
3000MH Allison Tran Double slide
2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee Blue Ox
Thanks for starting this thread. I was a little late in getting into this, but cannot see where you have reported a compilation of your
database on this topic.
Can you give me an update on your progress.
Again Thank you for this service to the RV public,
Bill
ISB 5.9 Cummins w/Banks
Allison 3060
Freightliner Chassis
Problem: No air pressure
We were getting ready to leave the 04 GARVR on Friday morning, trying to beat the crowd (ha ha) and much to my surprise the coach wouldn't build any pressure. I checked the obvious stuff that I could and couldn,t find anything. Called Freightliner and they connected me with the closest service center which couldn't get to me untill the next afternoon, but did give me the phone number of someone else in the area who may be able to help. So I called and they sent a technician out that afternoon. He changed the governor and still no air. Following the system the next item was the air drier, had air going in but not out. He bypassed the drier to get me going and I continued home where I removed the drier and installed a filter kit. Seems to be fine now.
Marvin and Teresa
99 Discovery 34Q
3000 miles
Problem Cheverolet Built it!
Since we have been motorhoming quite a while now we have several breakdowns but this series is probably the worst and ended up with us really happy in a new Holiday Rambler Endeavor DP. First major trip on a 1998 Coachmen 34' 454 to Gainsville, FL no problems but on the way home as we go thru Mobile, AL, the exhaust gets very loud. Wife is driving and we decuss it, no problem as 454 always have problems with exhaust manifolds, we will drive on home. About 130 more miles in Magee, Mississippi she says we are smoking very badly. We stop in a parking lot, and oil leaking from the engine area and find the oil cooler line melted and oil running out. Find a mechanic (on Sunday to come and help) son looks at front tires and says what are these shiny things around the tires, both of the steel radial were showing thru all the way around the tires, Coachmen had forgotten to realign the front end after building the coach. The mechanics go to find parts and get a plug to put in the block to plug up the oil cooler line and discover the motor moves as the left engine mount bolt does not go thru the mount, the mount sits on the bolt that how the oil cooler line melted as the engine would torque up and the exhaust would hit the oil cooler line. Fix that too, change the worst looking tire, pay them $75 (More than they asked) and drive home.
This coach had everything you can think of break including the rear hitch, exhaust, ecu, and so much more. Chevy spent over $20,000 trying to fix it and fianlly bought it back. We had 3' yellow lemons plastered all over it we were so disgusted with it. While we were waiting for them to decide to buy it back we bought the Holiday DP. It was the best move we could have made, loved that coach even though we did have a break down on it at at about 80,000 miles when one of the calipers stuck and wore the rotor half way thru. We got it towed home 150 miles and got it fixed with new rotor and caliper for $300. It was on a freighliner chassis.
1998 Holiday Endeavor DP Cummins 230HP Allison 6 speed
80,000 miles
2000 Four Winds Funmover with V10 Ford
40,000 miles
Transmission
The next breakdown happened almost 2000 miles from home in California. We have a Four Winds funmover with Ford V10. We had about 40,000 miles on it. Pulled to a stop and when we went to go, it would not move. The engine ran fine. We let it cool off for about an hour and it worked. We did this on and off for a week while we were in Ca once it was rolling, everything worked fine. We got home and had our trans guy look at it. Ford had left two bolts inside loose and let fluid seep through. Out of warranty we paid $2500 to rebuild whole transmission. It has 100,000 miles on it now and runs great.
We had some of those wonderful Firestone tires on the Fun Mower, the first one blew at 70 mph in Ohio and about scared the wits out of us. After the first one and until we got Michelin tires on it, we got where we could change a tire in 15 minutes since we have an air compressor on board. Get spare out, jack it up, use air wrench off and on, load junk tire and gone. When done with trip, take tire for free warranty replacement. Finally got tired of it, put new tires on it and then Firestone recalled the tires. Glad for the Michelins.
1997 Eldorado Class C 31' Ford V10
114,000 miles
Last breakdown was about 6 weeks ago in 31' Eldorado class c motorhome. We were headed out of town to a race about 300 miles away and had gone only 40 miles when loud bang in the rear. Found two rear tires on right side blown out. Tools would not fit the lugs, called my service manager at our store and he bought tools and we put one spare on and limped it back home. Used another vehicle and replaced the tires the next week as well as repair the wheel well damage. It did not have Michelins on it either but we were only going to use this one for a while til we bought a new one, howerer one son used it to go to Norwalk, Ohio a week ago. He lost two tires on it and it now has two new Michelins.
Pictured below are the Funmover and the Eldorado as we still have them.
Many more I am sure but these are the ones that come readily to mind.
* This post was edited 07/06/04 09:42pm by TWOSTROKE *
The Adam Family
2004 Gulf Stream Crescendo 330 Cat/Allison
1997 Eldorado Class C Ford V-10
2000 Custom Hauler - Fun Mover Ford V-10
Dodge Dually w/Cummins 5 Speed
2005 Yamaha FJR1300 & FZS600
Having fun along life's highway
Symptom: Loss of power from 65mph to about 40mph on I80 in Nebraska.
Doesn't get much flatter that that. Temp in the low 70's
We had been crusing for about 2.5 hrs in the afternoon. Had about 1/2 tank of gas when I noticed the loss of power. Thought I might be on a grade or something. Then a small, bearly detectable engine miss/stumble.
I thought for sure it was another intank fuel pump/filter problem.
We were about 20mi east of NorthPlatte and pulled off and into a dinky old Sinclair Station. I had read where the gas in the tank may get hot and cause a problem. I took on 20 gallons. We got onto Hwy 30, and headed into town. I eased it on up to 50-60mph and no problem.
We stopped in town at another gas station and took on another 28 gallons to fill the tank, making a total of 48. I have an 80 gallon tank, so I still had 32 gallons onboard when I had the problem. Seems like a lot of gas to me.
We cruised at 55-65mph for another 2000 miles out to Denver and back without any other problems. I always made sure I got gas at about 250mi or so taking on 40-45 gallons.
So was it Hot or Dirty Gas, vapor lock or the dreaded pump???
If you notice the problem, pull off and get some gas to cool it off.
It may help.
Mike
Chassis
30Engine:454(trottle body fuel injection)
Transmission:4L80E
Location of failure: 4 miles N of Tampa, FL, SB on I-75
Failure: Engine quit running, cranks, but won't start.
Cause: Worn ECM harnesss at shroud(bent sheetmetal) covering air conditioning compressor pulley.
It was a dark and stormy night...
Cruising along at 55mph, decided to push on to St. Pete Bch...instead of stopping at our usual 5pm.
Engine quit.
Slipped into neutral and tried to start...just cranked.
Pulled over to shoulder and tried to start again.
Called FHP and gave them lat/lon of our location.
FHP unable to locate anything without Highway Number and Mile Marker.
1/2 hour later very kind Officer pulled up and offered to contact towing service.
1/2 hour later towing service showed up and offered to tow to either "unknown" RV shop or LazyDays RV shop.
Paid towing service $180 for towing to LazyDays facility.
NOTE: Make sure wrecker driver knows about perils of AutoPark and unsprung driveshafts.
NOTE: Make sure the the wrecker either replaces the universal bearing caps on their respective ends and tapes them in place, or count on having the universal replaced before you head on the road again.
Five days waiting for LazyDays to get an open bay to look at it.
Four hours once it was in the bay.
Two hour while the tech dropped the fuel tank because he was unable to hear the fuel pump running. He claimed that the fuel pump would need to be replaced. Pump and gauge sending unit would be replaced together. I asked what blown fuseshe'd found. He went back to check fueses and found the ECM BAT fues has blown. We also found that the fuse should've been a 10A and someone(previous owners) has replaced it with a 20A...(I hate when people lie...Nope, never had a problem with it...*sigh*).
LazyDays tech says the problem was a pinched wire near the fuel tank. Problem was fixed, tech said the 20A fuse was ok in place of the 10A that the mfgr spec'd.
Paid LazyDays +$300. and $50 tip to tech for being so good at 'finding the problem so quickly'.
Back on the road...
Transmission would occasionally feel like it was placed into Neutral wile driving down the road. Problem would occur when hitting a pothole/bump on the road.
Continued driving...
1000-2000 miles later...
Engine stalls somewhere in N. Texas. Coast to side of road. Open hood, check ECM BAT fuse, replace fuse, back on the road.
30' later...
Engine stalls, still somewhere in N. Texas. Vector to side of road, open hood, replace ECM BAT fuse that promptly burns out...
replace fuse...
replace 3rd fuse...
replace with 25A fuse...
replace with 30A fuse...
I'm either gonna clear the short, or somethin's gonna send up a smoke signal to show me where the short is...
Engine starts!
Replace 30A fuse with 10A fuse and head back on the road...cool, pale and diaphoretic...no heart attack, yet.
back in Colorado.
Scattered rock from passing truck blows out larger driver-side fixed-window.
Pull into home depot in ColoSprings to replace blown window with lexan. (easy to cut and tape in place).
Wife vacumms up glass frags and feeds infant...
Did I mention the amount of stress that driving with a 4 month old infant can bring? on top of the problems the coach was having?
Wait for second MI(heart attack).
Back on the road. Home at last.
Out to california and back, no blown fuses, but the tranny would occasionally do the neutral-shift thing.
Back home. Strange vibration at 45 mph. Went to tire dealer and they agreed that the tires may be the cause. They replaced the tires. Handkooks with Michelins. Ride is improved 100%.
Heading home and ECM BAT fuse blows.
15 fuses later(10A-30A) and having to drive the coach in reverse the last +mile home(did I mention that this is a 32')...without a backup guide.
Sitting in driveway and waiting(the MI thing again, stress level as an all time high).
Engine still running, I removed the engine cover and gave the thickest bundle of wires a 'wiggle'...THE LAST BLOW ECM BAT FUSE!!!
Hope all your miles are as enjoyable as ours have been.
I had my first MI on April 1, 2003.
I had my first child on May 22, 2003.
I bought my first class A on June 1, 2003.
I only regret not having had my child or buying a motorhome, sooner...
I could've waited until my deathbed to have the MI and the coach problems...heh.
--joe
Joe, before your last MI, 50 years from now, ya gotta write a book!
[i]Bob & Kay & Joy the Dog (Retired Military/State/Federal) 37"U" 2005 Expedition Demco SS Kar Kaddy 07 1500 Crew Cab 4X4
Note: Due to invalid formatting, all formatting has been ignored.
Miles: 18K
Date of failure: August 2003
Break Down Description: Engine would not start after stopping for fuel. Temp 104
Symptoms: Engine cranked, but would not run
Effect: Stranded on a Saturday evening in Bismarck, ND
Cause: Fuel pump failure
Outcome: Pushed rig away from fuel pumps to parking area. Spent the night in the parking lot and rented a car the next morning to drive the last 200 miles home. Called the dealer the following Monday and told him where to find the rig. Traded for a diesel pusher. MUCH BETTER!
Driveline: Renegade 450hp mercedes benz, automatic tran.
Miles: 27500
Year: 2003
Breakdown: All 6 six tires on custom tow trailer blew out.
Onan generator failed to code "36" if much of a demand was placed on it.
Freightliner altenator on cab engine failed.
Needless to say all the sight seeing we done on the week of 4th of July was at the service centers for Freightliner, Onan, and the small middle of nowhere shop that in a burst of blinding luck last Sunday had the U-Bolts for the center axle that we had no idea was in danger of catastophic failure until the trailer brakes quit working on an exit ramp!
He had the exact items needed & the pricing for repair was great!
We are now in the process of trying to get with Renegade to replace wheels & tires to proper size etc. They tell us so far that for $3500 or so they will be glad to change this error in design.
I think maybe if they knew of this danger it would benefit them to help us out better than that!
DJ
Driveline (Engine, Transmission)
at 3126B engine Allison MH 3000Miles: New to 40000
Year: 2001
Symptoms: Driving to Alaska on maiden voyage and got to Bismark ND. (about 2000 mi. on OD) and speedometer, then air, then tach. quit or go crazy.
Effect:
Cause: Needed to replaced ECU (Electronic Control Unit)
Outcome: Fixed problem although problem recurred again in Black Hills following year. Same resolution.
No further problems and now have 45,000 miles (prox).
I mention this because this is apparently a regular occurance with Freightliner/Cat. Not sure whose fault, but I sure wouldn't doubt that placing the ECU next to the engine and its heat might not be partly to blame.
Anyway, any other details of this sort would be greatly appreciated. As well as dates. This thread might help improve the breed.
Thanks to you Badeye and all who contribute
Bob Manchik
HAPPY TRAILS TO YOU 'ALL
BOB
JMNSHO and as always your mileage may vary, and this free advice is worth what you are paying for it.
"We don't camp. We drive a motel room on wheels" --My Wife
Binary1@hotmail.com
Jim
- Beautiful wife of 42 yrs - 04 DSDP - Quad slide- (Cat 330)(FL Chasis)(Allison Tranny 6)
- 98 Chevy Silverado (cause I like it)John and LaVerne, 2003 Damon Challenger 348 workhorse, and Sophie,our mini- schnauzer,2001 saturn LS200 toad,falcon2,and a brakebuddy.
Our two breakdowns were very similar, loss of all power during a stop when the steering wheel was moved to top position. This was on our former Damon Daybreak on the Workhorse P32 chassis. they paid for tow and repair both times. Blew more than a fuse, took out the ignition switch. First time it took three days to diagnose. Second time, I told the WH Tech to review the reords on the unit, they spent very little time diagnosing the problem.
I now have a W22 chassis, I hope they have resolved this issue.
1. Does anyone have any advice about steam cleaning their engine compartment? Ours has accumulated a lot of soot because of the exhaust leak, but the mechanics advised against it, fearing damage to the alternator.
2. Our bed directly over the engine is too hot to lay on after a few hours on the road. Is this common or is there some kind of additional insulation we should be buying to keep cool in the sack?
Thanks!
Denny
Denny
2000 40' Western RV Alpine 350hp Cummins D/P
2004 Honda CRV EX toad
Coachman Mirada 300Q
Ford 460hp 4speed AT
42,000 miles
First, last year right side exhaust manafold had to replace (going again)
This week pulling into campground on Grand Island, Ny. Came out of office RV would not move, looked under; sure enough fluid leaking out. Made it to campsite. Called Goodsam ERS (great service) Transmission burned up due to rapid fluid loss, something rubbed a hole in the convertor. Rebuilt Trans. new convertor. $5K later we are back in Toledo Oh safe. We received great service from ERS, Enterprise Rent-a-Car and AAmco Transmissions
Searcher
Searchersgetaway
I don't really know about steaming the engine in a MH, but I do know that when my son and I have taken his truck(18 wheeler) in to be washed, they do the engine as well as all the frame etc they can reach. As far as I know, he has not had any trouble with the washing. I think it would be prudent to avoid any direct spray or as much indirect spray as possible on any obvious electrical components as well as not using an extremely high pressure. I guess its using a little common sense which makes the difference. Good luck with youor problems-when you get it all sorted out and up to speed, it is really worth it.
I had a 97 Dynasty before the Beaver, and that was one of the things I noticed. The bed was right over the engine and was not insulated worth a darn. Never did fix it, just tried to stop early to let it all cool down. There's an awful lot of metal down there and it's at a pretty good temp. Wait and let it cool before you go to bed. When you're doing this, you're not in a hurry- at least I'm not.
RKP
RKP
Geezerhood is wonderful
2003 Beaver Contessa
One wife
Four cats
Too many horses
A good attitude and ready to go
The answer is metal stems. The rubber ones with the valve extenders were the culprit. Stupid me, I never checked the extenders close enough to realize the stems were rubber. The worst part, the dealer that installed the valve extenders assured me the stems were metal.
Maybe I'm the one who ought to go by Badeye!
Boad
Renegade has been disinterested in fixing it, or admiting that it is a design flaw.
If you are interested in comparing war stories and possible legal action I can give you his email.
Organ donors save lives. One saved mine.
448 miles
Year 2004
After driving 300 miles on mountain roads of Yosemite, engine suddenly lost power, check engine light on, and came to a stop. Coach limping downhill to campground. Unable to restart after dumping. Towed to Fresno Paul Everts service dept after one night staying at dump station.
Cause: defective tachometer module and injection pump malfunction.
It took 10 days to fix and parts ordered.
Outcome: Traded in this coach for a new DP.
RV.org has well served me in selection of a safe reliable motorhome for fulltime use. The price of access to their database was well spent.
Sadly, most people do not want to study enough to make an informed purchase.
Passengers - 3 siamese, Sade, Abby & Emily
Crew - Eric & Terry
2005 Country Coach Inspire 330 Genoa.
2000 Silverado LT K2500 toad
bought used in 1999 with 15K miles
current miles 58K
454 Chev
1. Near Pedelton Or., blown outside rear tire- looked good but old, live and learn--Replaced all tires. ('99)
2. On 60 frway in Diamond Bar Ca., lost power steering and brakes, heat gauge went up.-- Fan belt broke and took another one with it, these were brand new, installed 2 days b4 in commerical shop. ('00)
3.At home on the street, wouldn't start, no power to starter, power relay in electrical cabinet failed 2 make contact--replaced relay. ('01).
4. Dallas Tx. check engine lite came on and stays on, made Chevy dealer in Longview Tx, great service-- replace Oxy sensor in exhaust. ('01)
5.Bringinham Ga., started morning drive with lack of power at high end or when trying to pass. Trouble lite would come and go off. 1st truck shop in La. couldn't find the problem with smog equipment check, no charge, tried another in Tyler Tx., to busy, no room in chevy dealer in Athens Tx., made sisters in Dallas. One chevy dealer does RV's in Dallas and they found a fuel filter blocked--replaced fuel filter and charge for scope usage. ('02)
6. Going down hill into Albuegerque Nm.,40 frway, Engine quits running. Determined no gas through throttle body-- Blown fues but why not determined, running fine since. ('03)
Hope this adds data for your study.
State Road 54 near Land-o-Lakes Florida.
Just picked up RV (1990 Fleetwood Pace Arrow, 454TBI, 30') and after 10 miles I noticed the voltage drop on the voltmeter. Shredded alternator belt (a single wide-flat belt, is it still called a serpentine belt?) Pulled into DAP, bought belt, and la volia.
Spare belt carried now also
Damn that engine compartment gets hot!
Driveline (Engine, Transmission):460 Ford, 4 spd auto, John Deere chassis
Miles:~80,000
Year:1988
Break Down Description: On maiden voyage home, after paying Perry, FL Ford dealership over $2K to get her running, broken power steering belt.
Symptoms:Loud pop under engine and immediate lose of power steering. I had heard squealing prior to this but did thought this was just 'how it sounded' since this was maiden voyage. I probably should have known better.
Effect:Very difficult to turn MH
Cause
Outcome: Broke down at a good place and was able to get MH into a truck stop off a 'country road' exit 1/2 mile up I-75. Trail vehicle used to shuttle the 1 mile back to the 'city' exit and get parts and tools from Walmart and auto store. Back on road in 3-4 hours. Made it home before dark.
88 Gulf Stream 34' Sun Vista, Ford 460, Edelbrock Perfomer carb, Thorley headers
Ford F-250 crew cab 4X4, 6.0 turbo diesel
complete roof rebuild
daughter 19, son 16
US Army Desert Storm vets (both of us)
left: The Ol' Gal right: DW with White Lightnin'
The problem was,a bee made its way through a small hole in the air filter and shorted across the mass air sensor which aparently told the computer that the engine was too rich and so it reduced the fuel flow to a near idle condition, the sensor was cleaned and the filter replaced and we were on our way. agreat job by Grants Pass towing, Good Sam ERS and Mock Ford.
47,000 miles
1987 34 foot Bounder
Front Passenger sid brake locked up. There had been a intermitant tight pulling to that side for about three thousand miles. When a mechanic had inspected it, he believed it was a low tire and a low air assist bag.
Effect: About a thousand miles into a vacation trip, when we came to a stop, the caliper locked up. Once it cooled, the brakes worked again, allowing us to limp into Wendover, Utah.
Cause: After replacing the caliper, the brake continued to lock up. Following the brake line up, we discovered that the rubber hose to the caliper was cut off. After some inspection, the head mechanic concluded that water had gotten between the metal clamp (that holds the line about halfway down) and the rubber hose, that rust had unsued, and between the swelling of the rust and the hardening of the rubber, the hose was crushed. Since the repairs were rushed and temporary, upon getting home to California, I went to the parts store for new lines for both sides and to pull the rotor and have it determined whether it needs to be replaced or just turned. The counterman told me he'd seen this before, and that he had concluded that someone at the MH factory had, for many years, done something with the brakes in the process of 'building the house on top of the frame', where they ended up crushing that metal clamp, problems showing up many years later. The mechanic in Utah had never seen anything like it. I wonder if its something unique to the coast area. The rig I bought had been used extensively down at the beach, spending weeks there during the summer. It had also been somewhat 'neglected' over those years.
Outcome: I have replaced both rubber lines on the front, and am going to inspect the rear brakes as well.
symptom : motor just quit
effect : nothing would work no starter .no gauges nothin .but it would start on the coach batteries and run as long as i held the switch down .made it to a exit ramp.
cause : the battery disconnect blade switch broke off and disconnected. hooked all the cables direct to the battery and shazam it worked .
outcome : put a new switch on it hopes this works . it is scarry to be far from home and something happen . mine was a quick fix. i can't amagine what is is like to have something majior happen .
retired
havin fun with 1999 georgie boy 3515
and the wife too .
V-10 ford
SLOW DOWN AND SMELL THE FLOWERS
Sooner or later the major(s) will happen, in spite of everything we try to do preventively. My majors have never been from something I keep maintained like tires or fluids (except for the time I ran out of gas in the middle of Hwy 101 - I thought I still had 10 gals.
), they've all been caused by something unforseen and seemingly built to fail.Like a bad in-line starter relay 6 mechanics in 6 shops didn't know existed and was artfully hidden from view by General Motors, then replaced by a hardy solenoid on the production line in a timely fashion 2 weeks after my chassis was built. Burned up 4 starters and got me towed across Montana and Wyoming several times before I investigated and found the 1984 Chev shop bulletin and fixed it myself
.Or like the bundle of wires that Fleetwood Riverside had routed through a torched and jagged frame hole and over a muffler; lucky my coach didn't burn up on that one - my at-the-ready smoke smeller was on the job
. And the countless near-misses; disasters prevented by either routine inspections or inadvertant discovery. They point up the need for constant vigilance, esp. on older rigs that have worn or corroded from years of service. I regularly crawl under (and over) my Pace Arrow looking for potential problems, and inevitably end up refastening or resecuring nuts, bolts or wires, sometimes painting or coating or retapeing or replacing old parts. But you can never catch the one that Murphy's Law leaves for you, so when it comes to old Murph I walk softly and carry a big wrench
.
However, in my case, it wasn't the fuse causing the bad connection. It was the relay that picks up when the oil pressure switch closes. The main contacts on this relay are what actually supply the voltage to the fuel pump motor. When I checked the operation of the relay by measuring the resistance across the contacts, it was not real obvious that it was the problem. There was continuity through the contacts but there was some small amount of resistance there. I forget the actual numbers now, but it was not enough that it really convinced me that the relay was bad. But I swapped it out with a new one and have never had the problem again. I also replaced the oil pressure switch because it seemed a little suspect at the time too. So I can't actually say for certain exactly which of the two components was the actual culprit in my case. But what ever I did, fixed the problem so I am happy.
Bill and Betty
2000 Class C Coachmen Leprechaun Ford Chassis Triton V10
2007 Saturn Aura Toad
and our 14 year old Dachshund named Lucky
Click Here For Barth Custom Coach Information
19000 miles at purchase on Feb o4
300 Cummins, 6 speed Allison
1998 Dodge Grand Caravan Toad
Problem sudden loss of all electrical on the Chassis
Solution: replaced the Battery Disconnect Selenoid (continuous duty selenoid) for the ignition
Cost $17.95 and lots of gray hair and bad nerves
I am new to this forum thing but just saw the post you made about loss of electrical on your rig. It first started out like the ac/heater fan was drawing too much voltage.This gradually became more common eventhough the selenoid tested ok, it would get hot and shut off for a few minutes until one day it would not start again. It was very unnerving to say the least in that it left us in the road twice.
* This post was last edited 09/14/04 10:47am by retirednp *
190HP Cummins Diesel Engine
96,000 miles
Previous owner was a RV rental place in Alaska
Home has had many miles from Florida through states that use salt on the roads in winter or it tended to be near the coast (rusty chassis tho not to bad according to a coach technician).
Recent problem: After picking coach up at the consignment dealer, ran fine, restarted several times.
Got it home, parked it on a 3-5 degree slope, nose down.
Next day started fine.
3rd day would not start, strong batteries, just not getting fuel. Would not start for the next week.
Neighbor and #1 son worked on coach and gave up, but did notice that an air release banjo screw on the engine was striped, would not seal and allowed air into the fuel delivery system.
Hired diesel mechanic who did some magic involving removing the output hose from the water separator and dipping it in a can of diesel fuel, pumping the lift pump, cranking it for many seconds several times, etc. finally getting it to cough to life.
Mechanic decided that the banjo screw assembly needed replacement and that the in-the-tank fuel pump wasn't working or was weak.
Ordered and replaced banjo screw, two washers and the sealing screw, $39 worth of parts, $245 for labor (including trip charge) @ $60/Hr.
Since I had a backup out-of-tank in-line fuel pump ($55, cheap insurance) with a 5-9 GPM output, I went ahead and plumbed it in near the engine while we were waiting for the parts to be delivered, bolting it to the frame and rerouting the fuel hose. Additional parts needed were fuel hose ($3.60 per foot! needed 8') brass couplers and adapters to mate the 1/4" pump with the 1/2" system ($20 or so), clamps, and electrical connectors. Got lucky and found a nearby live wire for the pump that is live during 'run' and 'start'.
Starts great now! All I need do now is place a fuel filter for 1/2" hose in front of the pump and I'm good to go.
Jim@HiTekHave shop, will travel!
Visit my travel & RV repair blog site. Subscribe for emailed updates.
Fleetwood Bounder, '94
Cummins Diesel, 190HP, 36.5' with 50HP LP boost.
Black Rock Lava Park, Nevada
You didn't say who built your chassis. Freightliner, Spartan...?
It happened on I15 between Las Vegas and St. George UT. I was going through the gorge, had just came down one hill, hit a flat area and bamb. Terrible noise coming from under the rig. I couldn't stop because I was over a gorge with NO shoulder. I went another 200 feet and seen a sandy pull over spot which I did. When I hit the sand I almost stopped dead, but had managed to be off the road by only 6". I tried to start the rig and move, but nothing moved. My cell phone was dead in the area and a HP came along about 12:30 and called Camping World RS. By 5 PM I got worried about the darkness etc. and gave a May Day to truckers going by. About 7 PM a wrecker camer from St. George 22 mi. away. After hooking up he started to disconnect the drive shaft and noticed that the rear whell was coming off the axle hub. So he had to go back and get a flatbed. About 8 pm he returned and winched the MH on the flatbed. Luckily the wheel screwed back into the axle instead of coming out any further and we got it on the trailer. Upon disassembly two days later, the axle had broken, bearing failed, broken brake line etc. which left no brakes, no emergency brake, nothing. If I'd of been going downhill, I probably would of lost control of the rig and hit the ravine. There was NO prior indication that anything was wrong, no bearing squeel etc. just bamb. Camping World had called a wrecker at MP 79 in Utah to go to MP 22 in Utah. I was at MP 22 in Nevada. The HP that called also identified himself as a NVHP at MP 22. I was told that a new axle was not available and a specialist cut the old axle housing off and welded a new one on, $1600. Both wheels were rebuilt. The scariest moment of my life when looking back on what could of happend to us. I could of been going down a step hill and finding out I had NO brakes, NO tranny to downshift, NO emergency break, and with the engine quit, very difficult sterring at 60 MPH!!!! It just wasn't our time to leave this earth.
Tradewinds 1998, Cat 3126 300 HP
Ron
ALso have a weird thing going on with the front brakes. THey have performed fine the whole trip, down steep grades, etc but overheated in stop and go traffic and boiled out fluid, losing pedal. I had them bled with high temp (Castrol LMA) a year ago. Taking it in to a Commercial Ford Truck place this Wed. THey are turning freely. I measured them when the were hot with my IR temp gun; over 500 degrees. After cooling, now read nid 200's. Going to replace calipers and master cyl for starters.
My Kharma ran over my Dogma.
dave costa
1996 Aerbus 37 ft. one slide
93 sidekick toad.
1992 Fleetwood Southwind
~75k miles
Symptoms: Hard crank, acted flooded, caught with belch of black smoke, died upon putting it in gear.
Cause: Fault water temp sensor.
Outcome: Back to normal.
Details:
Evidence of rich running, based on soot at tailpipe, puff of black smoke on start up. But ran fine for 400+ miles from Atlanta down to Florida. Near end of trip, started sputtering and hesitating from a start. Idle high, around 2,000 rpm.
Rig would not re-start after backing into campsite. Acted flooded. Held down accelerator, engine would fire with huge clouds of black smoke, idle high, but as soon as I put it in gear, it would die.
Cooled off, next morning was able to start and drive to Wal-mart for supplies, but wouldn't re-start in the parking lot. Same acting flooded, black smoke, high idle, died in gear. Called mechanic.
Replaced distributor cap, rotor, and fuel filter. Battery was also very weak, and it was changed at this time. Same symptoms.
Ignition checked out okay, the computer was just dumping too much fuel. Mechanic hooked up a scanner. It gave no error codes, but he noticed the water temp sensor was reading 5 deg. F. (In Florida in August!) Apparently that was causing engine to run too rich.
Replaced sensor, fire right up, idle back in normal range, but "lumpy." Plugs were fouled from all of the rich running. Changed them, and pulled O2 sensor and wiped it clean (it was new) and idle smoothed out. Ran perfectly the 400+ miles back to Atlanta.
2006 Maxlite 30BHS
Maxlite Photos
Large: 2003 Dodge Ram 2500 Quadcab 4x4 V-10 5spd manual 3.73
Equal-i-zer, Prodigy
Medium: '07 Infiniti G35S
Small: '91 Miata
Pad the walls, we got 10-yr-old twins in here!
Have never had a trip without a problem. Each time feel now everything is right.
Last Sept.2003 had it checked out for a trip. Kept blowing fuses on trip. Back to shop. Had electrical wiring checked.
On way home from the shop lost all power. No power steering, no brakes, etc. Thank goodness emergency brakes worked. Towed to local garage, State Police ordered road service. Still haven't heard for the 3nd time from GS Rd Service (Unusual). Mechanic immediately said not getting gas. Replaced gas pump & filter. On way home from local garage planning to leave for Samboree, again the engine stopped. No fun losing control & rolling backwards on hill. Thankful again for emergency brakes. Tested and repaired??? (May mention even during times it was not used would continue to start it up weekly & few trips around the block.) This Spring, even though plugged into power source, had dead batteries. Mechanic claimed needed heavier duty batteries. Also found a spark causing it to short out.
Last week on way to have it inspected, lost power. Towed to original shop. Had to replace computer, still blew out. Than found a spark that was the cause & replaced the computer, coil that was damaged.
Arrived home & have tested it driving around the block.
It would be interesting to know the record of different manufacturers. Anyone thinking of buying a FLEETWOOD MH- buyer beware. 4th MH, outside of the 2nd MH- Jamboree Class C front end going out, other 2 had no problems. 1st MH, April 1970- lasted 11 yrs. & 131,000 mi.. Good old days!
Ygohome Jean
Driveline (8.1 WH20 Allison 5 Speed)
Miles: 1930
Year: 2004.5
Break Down Description: Coming home 10 miles from the dealership on a 3% grade in brand new MH, check engine light came on and lost about 50% power
Symptoms: See above
Effect: Had to pull over and have it flatbed towed back to Range RV in Victorville, CA where it sat for 9 days and I was treated like a Leper the same day I plunked down $140,000 for this dog.
Cause: Bad mass air flow sensor, failed alternator, bad ABS module, shorted tail light and flasher harness in dash, bad central computer module,
Results: I am not a fan of workhorse chassis.
'04 Itasca Suncruiser 33V, '05 Scion xB toad
'66 Wife ( Low mileage/high maintenance )
2 Noisy kids and a worthless chihuaha
( Just kidding, I love the dog )
RV particulars:37U Bounder
Driveline (Engine, Transmission):ISB300, Allison 6 Speed
Miles:5300
Year:2005
Break Down Description: (You can add any description of the problem here that you think would help others in understanding the situation and problem.)
Symptoms: Lost all electrical power while on the road
Effect: All dash instruments failed. Eventually chasis battery failed.
Cause
Outcome:Alternator replaced.
Excellent trouble shooting and repair by New Jersey Freightliner facility.
Trouble #2
RV particulars:37U Bounder
Driveline (Engine, Transmission):ISB 300, Allison 6 Speed
Miles:7200
Year:2005
Break Down Description: (You can add any description of the problem here that you think would help others in understanding the situation and problem.)
Symptoms: Check Engine light illuminated
Effect: No loss of power, smoking etc. just the light on
Cause: Bad exhaust temperature sensor
Outcome: Replaced sensor.
Lousy troubleshooting by Cummins center in Harrisonburg, Va. It took them 10 hours to correct and then they charged me $10 because they had to have the part taxied over from another shop in town.
Both repairs covered under warranty
Dave and Nancy Irwin
drive line f53 ford
motor V-10
symptoms : won't come out of park
out come : replaced relay in steering column .to let it come out of park .ford said that their are 9 things that causes this . from blown fuses ,relay's , solenoid's ,cable , shift pin in transmission ,wiring.
Thank You
Mr. Ron
1998 Fleetwood Bounder
V-10, Ford F-53 chassis.
Driveline: Cummins 8.3L ISC 330HP
Miles: 22,540
Year: 2001
Break Down Description: No AC power to front TV, satelite systems and refrigerator (Norcold 1200 LRIM) All other AC powered systems were working
Effect: Had to run Regrigerator on DC or LP
Cause: Tripped GFI outlet in bathroom
Outcome: Reset GFI and everything worked perfectly, never happened again.
We had just set up the coach at a campground, Goliad St Park in Goliad, Tx. had AC on, radio was playing, Microwave worked, etc, when I started to try to get refrigerator to work on AC. Indicated 'No AC', then I noticed the Satelite system was not powered up and there was no front TV working. Caled the dealership after looking through the manual for 30 minutes, and checking all the breakers and fuses. Nothing tripped or blown.
The GFI was installed to protect the AC outlets and the people in the coach, however, it was also hooked to the outlet in the outside panel of the refrigerator where there is a 110V outlet to plug the refrigerator in for AC power. That would protect a person outside. Great Idea and great safety, they just should have covered it in the manual.
Jerry and Virginia
2001 Monaco Diplomat
2003 Tahoe Toad,
Sadie the Westie.
2008 Damon Challenger 34 ft,great for me and new wife to go to Sq and round dance weekends,Masonic,O.E.S.,and Natil United Methodist Campers weekends DECOLORES MY FRIENDS
Come see us at http://pages.prodigy.net/ken-o-vern
"1991 Winnebago Warrior Toyota Chasis"
Had my first breakdown today. Was on the way to the Rennaissance festival , two blocks from my house my engine sputters a bit and camper rolls to a stop. In the middle of the street. NO warranty, no insurance and I cant afford towing. Ran back to the house, woke tennant with meter, came back, we pushed it back to the curb by hand "no fun" and after some study found out the secondary on the coil which should be putting out something like 10,000 was putting out 12. Not 12,000 just 12......
So after panicking a bit realising no wrecking yards for parts were open. finally tracked down the one chain NOT closed on Labor day, got a new coil and hit the road three hours late and eighty dollars poorer.
"I'm on social security, 80 bucks hurts"
But I am finding out what happens when you take a camper that has baked 13 years in Arizona up to damp rainy Minnesota. If there is any issue that can be afffected by moisture it will materialise reguardless of how well it was holding together in the dry, things leak, they mildew, and electrical connections go funny. After two weeks a corrosion pattern from a batery letting go started showing itself in the engine compartment, evnen though it must have happened at least 6 years ago. "Yay Humidity" So suffice to say its keeping me busy with nickle and dimeing.
nsvanvoast
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): Cummins 350, Freightliner Chassis
Miles:10500
Year:2003
Break Down Description
hassis suspension would not air up when jacks are retracted and engine on.Effect: chassis too low to drive, can cause damage to drive shaft.
Cause: air dump valve would not reset
Outcome:under the MH (front axle area) is an override button that will reset the system and allow the air suspension to fill up. Freightliner and Fleetwood still trying to isolate the problem. It could be related to the jack system or the dump switch on my control panel.
Ours are pretty mundane but thought you might want them anyway. They both happened on our old unit (we have just moved to a newer DP).
RV particulars: 1985 Pace Arrow 32' gas
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): GM 454 V-8
Miles: 80,000
Year: 1985
1st Break Down (Jan '03) Description: Engine failed to start
Symptoms: Stopped for supper, would start afterward. Rapped the starter & off we went. Stopped for fuel, and dash went dark when I tried to start.
Effect: May hours, fuses & jumper wires later, figured out the starter was drawing mega-AMPs whenever I hit the key & the relay connected.
Cause: Starter was dead-shorted. Replaced with lifetime rebuild from the Advance Auto across town & installed it myself.
Outcome: Other than the wind & 18 degree weather, it only cost me $45 & 11 hours; all's well that ends well!
2nd Break Down ( May '03) Description: Sudden over-heating of the engine & wandering steering. Engine died & lights dimmed.
Symptoms: Sudden over-heating of the engine & wandering steering. When I stopped (as quickly as safely possible on an Interstate) the radiator was emptying itself for me.
Effect: No power, no cooling, no power steering or brakes.
Cause: It took me about 15 minutes to figure out it wasn't a blown hose or rad, so I pulled the 'dog-house' & instantly found the problem; a frayed belt. Simple enough, I had made sure I had spares for the two listed in the manual when we bought the rig. On closer inspection, I found that not one but both were broken & one was totally gone! One ran the power systems (A/C & power steering/power brake pump) & the other the fan pulley & the alternator.
Outcome: An hour later, after fitting the inner one, I came to the realization that 'something' had been modified since manufacturing and only one of the belts was going to fit. It would fit either path but I only had one belt. I chose the path that gave us cooling & voltage. By the time I was done, the engine had cooled; it had only lost about a gallon & I had more with us, of course. The steering was awful & braking was next to nothing; I had to downshift & use both arms on the wheel & both feet on the brake to stop! The only good thing was that it was well after midnight by now & no one was on the highway. We traveled the remaining 150 miles home in about 4 hours, barely stopped in our backyard, & parked it for about two weeks before I even wanted to LOOK at it again! Bought another belt & it was fine again.
Hope to never add to this post with the DP !!! :-)
--Scott
Any given day, I'm Boating, shoveling or RV'ing south! or riding, wheeling, GP'ing
'07 Coachmen Freelander C3100SO: OLLY - "Our Lyl' Land Yacht"
'05 Jeep Liberty
('03 SeaRay 280 Sundancer, '99 SeaDoo 18' Jetboat; '91 Jeep YJ; '03 HD V-Rod, '01 Boxster S)
We own a Bounder 33' 1998 Vortec, we have had nothing but trouble with this RV, I will point out all the problems that we have encountered and maybe others will be luckier to find out what could happen before buying a RV.
1) Our first incident was a bad tire, OK this could happen to
anyone, however when we went to put the spare on, which
came with the RV we found out it was the wrong one, the
was a 19.5 alright but it only had 8 holes and it should
have 10, when we called Fleetwood, they insisted that they
put in the right one, this was our first call, they informed
us that someone must have switched it " very unlikely", how-
ever they did not want to replace it, we tried to get another
rim but no one had one, these rims are hard to find, we called
back to Fleetwood and was told not to worry, because now they no
longer put in spare, the reason given was that people try to
change their own tire and will get hurt, but if we call their
special road service they will come and change the tire and
rim as they carry them with them at all times throughout the
USA and Canada, Lord behold we had another bad tire, but the
road service never heard of such service for Fleetwood, so we
had to find the right tire, which by the way is a "as we where
told by many tire shops, a custom tire, we did find one that had
this size in stock in Montreal, Canada and had it put on.
On our last trip May 2004 we hit a pot hole on the highway and
blew a tire and bended our rim, after twenty phone calls with
Fleetwood, the only thing they could do for us was to ship us
a rim from California overnight for approx. $400.00 and we
would have to stay three days for it, this was not an option
we drove 1,500 miles with this broken rim and flat tire
(lucky it was the one on the rear outer side and the inside
tire was alright, we could not find a 19.5 rim, finally after
many calls on my cell phone and tire shops we got the
that had this rim in stock, a little truck shop, $65.00 each
needless to say I bought two, they guided me to some one that
happened to have the right tire for that rim, and we now had
a spare and went back on the road, on our way back the inside
new Michelin was a diffective tire and blew, again drove from
one tire shop to another to find this tire, Michelin gave us
credit and had to pay for what we used. Now we are back "ON
THE ROAD AGAIN" unfortunatly the two tires are worn on the
inside due to bad alignment or something, but could not find
the right size so we had to drive all the way from St. Louis
Missouri back to California with bad front tires. Now this
is only our tire story.
2) On our first trip we went to Prince Edward Island, Canada, we
wanted to retract our level jacks and they did not want to go
up, all the oil leaked out of the rear jacks, we again phoned
Fleetwood, they intructed us that it was the responsability
of Versa/tek Company who supplied the Power Gear, we phone
them but they could not do anything for us, only to give us
the wrong information on how to push them up. Whe we
arrived home we went to our RV shop and had them replaced,
but it took over a year to receive them, and when they where
delivered they where the wrong ones.
Again on our last trip we arrived very stressed at the RV Park
Riverside Casino in Laughlin, Nevada. We set everything up so
we could stay a few days to get over our other ordeals see (3)
I was packing up, and finally time to retract my level jacks,
and you guessed it, the rear drivers side did not go up, the
reason was that the heavy duty spring just snapped (broke) like
pot metal, I called quite a few rv repair places but no one again
had that particular spring, as it is an odd ball, we got the
jack up and tied it, this is still under warranty as they where
the new ones replaced before we went on our trip, as off today
we have to bring it in to the shop to have it repaired.
3) Then on our second trip back home, my transmission blew, lucky we
found a transmission expert in Montreal, Canada that rebuild it
and it was under warranty, Fleetwood paid for it, which cost us
three days, then when asked to check the breaks, we where in-
structed that the breaks have crumbled and will have to be re-
placed, which we did but paid out of our own pocket.
4) On our Third trip, we stopped in Myrtle Beach, Florida, while I
turned to park my engine went dead, could not start it again,
I called Fleetwood to see what they could do to help (ha, ha)
Called the Automobile Association, when they came they found
that my front new battery and reserve two new batteries where
melted with a short and they could not do anything, they gave me
a number to call, but he only could come in the morning, when he
arrived he know immediatly what happened, he said that he had
quite a few of these repairs on the bounder. It was the cable
that is grounded underneath the chassis that was installed in-
correctly and rubbed agains the steering rod, which wore out the
cable cover and shorted, this melted all three bateries and he
said ou whole coach could have been on fire, that we where lucky,
he replaced the cable and showed me the correct installation, he
was the best mechanic of Camping World for15 years until he went
on his own, while he was under the coach he also noticed that my
suspension was loose and found out that my A Frame broke, also
the two other spare batteries where again odd balls and will have
to go to a rv place to replace them (they where also brand new)
lucky for us there was a Camping World nearby, it also happened
that we are members, they took us immediatly, the mechanic that
helped us and that used to work there, instructed us to tell the
technician at Camping World to weld the A Frame, which they did.
5) Now we are back on the way to our destination, however the oil
gage did not work and the motor started to slow down, thinking
that this time our engine is gone, we where just at a gaz station
I checked the oil and it was low on oil, so I put oil in and we
where back on the road, arriving without further incident (ouf!)
Not to mention that the engine does not take hills, mountains even if
they are not steep, we start at 60/65 m.p.h. and ended up doing below
20 m.p.h. by the time we arrive at the top, this is not loaded and not towing a vehicle, it does worst with towing.
This RV was a stress box, a anxiety package, it made a nervous wreck out of us when we arrived we where almost brain dead.
We hope that our experience will help other to avoid it to happen to them.
We must say also that the Bounder is not all bad, it has one of the best floor plans that we have seen, it is easy on the road to drive
we like the shape and all the comforts of home if not more, except it should be parked instead of driven or use it for very short trips flat driving and down hill.
Yours sincerely
RDG
Driveline (Engine, Transmission):300 Cat 7.2l MD3060
Miles: 23800
Year: 2002
Symptoms: Battery warning light appeared in the instrument cluster
Effect: The chassis batteries eventually went dead causing loss of all gauges and the ability to shift the transmission.
Cause: Exciter wire on the alternator broke
Outcome: The solution was to replace the alternator. Until this could take place I was able to continue travelling by running the onboard generator which kept the chassis batteries charged. To get started initially I used the "boost" switch to bring the house batteries online with the chassis batteries.
2002 Triple E Signature A3607GW
300HP Cat, Allison MH3000
Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
For the rest--AAAAAARRRGHHH. (an expression of solicitude).
93 30H Flair
P32 454
02 Saturn
Driveline (Engine, Chassis, Transmission): 5.9 ISB, Freightliner, Allison md3060
Miles: 31,000
Year: 1999
Break Down Description:
Symptoms: Bell dinging as occurs when tranny in gear with parking brake engaged.
Effect: Alert Bell started to ding while traveling down highway and continued until parking brake was set and tranny was put in neutral.
Cause: Loss/Low Air Sensor (three wire sensor)
Outcome: Replaced sensor
* This post was edited 10/29/04 05:33am by faucet1 *
2002 Monaco Diplomat 40 PST Triple Slide
Toad-88 Ford Mustang GT-Stick
David and Jean
Me and My site
I have a Coachmen Sentara with a 2001 V-10, I could have written your post myself..... except Check Engine Light did not come on. You have saved me a painstakeing troubleshooting routine. Only in heavy rain, I would get the mometayr "hick-up".. started subtile, then would get worse..... thought I had bought bad gas first time experinced.
Thank you for your input - you saved me a ton of time!!!!!!
2000 Coachmen Santara F-53 V10 - Rick, Marie and Junior - The Wonder Dog (retired)
In may 2004 going from Florida to California while climbing the grades to Amarillo the red shutdown light and buzzer went on and then went away. 40 miles later the shutdown light went on and shut the engine down in the truck lane. it started right away and since the temp and oil pressure was ok we limped into the cummins dealer in Amarillo. They could find no faults with computer testing and sent us on our way. When we started the grades into California the same thing happened several times. We went into to a cummins dealer in Arcata California. The computer told him that the engine had been derated and shut down 20 times since we left texas. they replaced the fuel injection pump under warranty for the cummins 350 ISC and we headed to the state of washington. Around 300 miles on the way the check engine light came on and we felt a pause in the engine power. This only lasted for a few seconds and we kept going. It kept happening more frequently so we went into the cummins dealer in coberg Oregon. We spent almost two weeks there while they replaced the ECM, the the engine wiring harness, the fuel filters, a 200.00 fuel sensor, and isolated the entire fuel system and found no air leaks. At this point we left, and 100 miles later the check engine light came on with the same loss of power for a few seconds. When we reached Ventura California we went into the Cummins dealer and they thought that they had fixed the problem and we headed to Florida. 200 miles later the same light came on and we continued to Kingman Arizona when the check engine light kept comming on every 20 miles. At this point we realized that the engine was being derated when the light came on and we had to climb the small hills into Kingman in Second gear at 2000 RPM. Great western trucking was not a cummins dealer but was authorized to do warrantee work. The computer indicated that the problem was the fuel injecter pump that had been replaced two months earlier in Arcata california. While starting to replace the pump they found a wire socket to the pump had become loose and was sending incorrect messages to derate the engine. Torqued it down to the proper torque and we were on our way to Florida. From Kingman arizona to where we are now (Fort Myers) the engine has performed as it should, getting an easy 8.2 MPG at 65 MPH+ while pulling a PT cruiser with a 40 foot Newmar Mountain Aire.
It sure feels good to be home,
BOB
* This post was edited 10/02/04 06:59am by slobote *
Bob and Mardel
2001 Beaver Monterey Trinidad DP
One well behaved cat (CC)
Fort Myers, Florida
Long Beach,California
"and ye shall know the truth and the truth shall set you free"
CIA motto
The same thing happened to me. Same symtoms and all. Our coach quit near San Antonio and started again before I came to a stop. This happened two more times. The forth time it quit I was at an exit an pulled off with a dead engine. I sat there for a minute and said 'well, we have Good Sam Road Care'. I tried to start the engine one more time and it started. Did not have a problem all the way to out destination Fort Worth. Turns out the a battery disconnect I had installed on the battery was intermittently losing contact. I found this out quite by accident but removed the disconnect and have not had any problems since. Driving a '99 Ford V10 gas banger.
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): 330 Cat, Allison Transmission
Miles: 21,000
Year: 2001
Break Down Description:
Symptoms: Would overheat when climbing, never on the flat roads
Effect: Alarms would go off and we would have to stop and wait
for the temp to come down
Cause: A bracket had come loose that was holding an expansion joint causing hot air to spill out and be trapped under the coach
Outcome: We got it fixed.
A little more info: WE were told that there was a problem with the radiator collecting road dust from an oily discharge from the engine. It was a design failure. They told us just to keep the radiator clean and we would not have a problem. However, when we headed for the mountains, we would continually overheat. It finally overheated to the point that our hydraulic lines to the slides and the air hoses to our breaks melted. THe guy that was sent out for road side service shined a flashlight down into the engine and noticed the loose bracket. He said by the looks of the carbon built up, it was loose for quite a while. Since we got everything fixed, we haven't had ANY problem at all. Karel
Former:
27' Komfort TT
9' Artic Fox Camper
Presently:
2001 Itasca Horizon
RV particulars: Itasca Suncruiser 33V
Driveline: 8.1 W-20
Miles: 3978
Year: 2004
Break Down Description: Engine lost power topping a 7% grade, all the lights on the instrument cluster came on and all the alarms sounded. Went into reduced power mode and limped off to a stop on the right shoulder on US 66 between Kingman and Peach Springs AZ Sept 22, 2004
Symptoms: All dash warnings came on and power went away.
Effect: Had to pull over in an area with no cell service and stop.
Cause: Unsecured secondary grounding strap from the factory
Outcome: Turned off the engine and did a visual inspection of the engine. Everything looked fine including temperature. Started it back up, ran fine except orange " check engine " light stayed on. Kept driving another 16 miles watching gauges until I got cell service. Called my dealer "Range RV Victorville, CA" they were no help. Told me to have it towed to the nearest Workhorse service center 186 miles away in Flagstaff. Called the 800 number on my Workhorse card, they connected me with a technician. He had me crawl under the right front wheel and pull off the air cleaner cover and check for major dirt or blockage and mass air flow sensor connector wiggled loose. That wasnt it so he had me turn off the ignition for 2 minutes, then turn the key from dead off to start and back 5 times in 10 seconds. That reset the orange trouble light. He advised me to have fun on my trip and have my dealer download the trouble code history when I got home. No further problems that trip. which was 1400 miles.
I got back home and turned the rig in for service. They found a ground strap which was not bolted to anything. There were 21 trouble codes saved in the PCM which made no sense, so they dug deep and found the hanging grounding strap.
Waiting now to pick it up from service. 29th day in the shop in the first 9 weeks of ownership.
God Bless workmanship.
Workhorse says Winnebago must have disconnected the grounding strap during the coach build and forgot to reconnect it before roll-out.
Driveline: 6.5L TurboDiesel (GM) w/4L80E tranny, 23.5K miles
Symptom: started sputtering, then over next 300 miles, got worse till it wouldn't run reliably.
Troubling factor: we were 650 miles south of San Diego
Problem: electronic fuel injection
Problem getting a good diagnosis: GM service rep in La Paz stated elegantly, "We never sell dat chit down here." (He was referring lovingly to EFI, they have plenty of diesels, just not electronics).
Fix: return to USA to get OBD1 computer & spare parts; return to Mexico to try parts & read computer codes; return to USA to get new electronic injection pump; return to Mexico to install.
Moral: for 6.5L GM diesel, subscribe to TheDieselPage.com, and keep a good sense of humor well oiled. And of course, take spare EVERYTHING to Mexico.
See y'all in Yucatan in '06.
08 Alpine Coach 36FDDS The Ultimate DIY Project
425 Cummins/Allison
Driveline (Engine, Chassis,Transmission): 275 ISB 5.9, Freightliner, Allison md3060
Miles: 31,000
Year: 1999
Break Down Description:
Symptoms: Low air pressure
Effect: cant drive
Cause: Air Dryer filter mounted under the spin-on filter disintergrated causing valve in bottom of air dryer to remain open.
Outcome: Replaced both spin-on and inter-filter located just under spin-on. Also had to replace the lower outlet valve. Total cost of parts about $180.
* This post was edited 10/29/04 05:29am by faucet1 *
Hope this helps,
Dick Lucas
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): 3208 Cat, Allison 4 speed
Miles: 144,000
Year: 1981
Break Down Description:
Symptoms: Overheated on Interstate. Temp guage topped out. Smoke & steam trail.
Effect: Immediate pull over & shut down situation.
Cause: Blown Radiator heater hose
Outcome: Lucky. Hose blew right next to radiator. After the engine cooled down I removed the hose at the radiator, cut off 4", (the part with the hole) and reattached it. Then filled the radiator with fresh water from my tank and I was back on the road. Oddly enough, I had just had the RV serviced and told them to replace any worn belts or soft hoses. At my first opportunity I replaced the broken (repaired) hose myself, and added anti-freeze/coolant. Good thing too, because the hose had another bubble that was ready to burst.
Boondock Rookie
* This post was last edited 11/13/04 08:45am by Mike Lutz *
Mike Lutz
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): Safari Kenya, Cummins B5.9, Allison 4 speed, Oshkosh chassis
Miles: ~20k
Year: 1992
Break Down Description: We lost the power steering on our 34-foot Safari as we turned north from east bound I-86 onto I-15 at Pocatello, Idaho, in September 2000. We continued north towards Idaho Falls while trying unsuccessfully to locate a shop that was open on Saturday afternoon. Then when I stopped on the shoulder (to ask for help from a helpless state trooper), the automatic parking brake locked up and we were down and out. The Good Sam operator then dispatched Hendricksons Pro-Tow from Idaho Falls.
Ron Hendrickson and his son James arrived promptly, dropped the drive shaft, and towed us to Lake City International Trucks, Inc. in Idaho Falls. Ron even gave us his home phone number and told us to call any time, even at 3 AM, if we needed anything! We found an electrical outlet and plugged in to keep the batteries charged and waited for Monday.
Monday morning, Jeff Schow of Lake City International checked out the problem and concluded that an RV service center would more familiar with the system. He called Eagle Rock RV Service Center, which dispatched a mechanic to free the parking brake and guide us to their shop. Meanwhile, Jeff had our drive shaft reinstalled. He would not charge us for this or for the electricity we used, but said we would just have to charge it up to their good will towards getting us on our way!
John Henry, the owner of Eagle Rock, and his wife and staff treated us well, allowed us to stay in the RV inside the shop, and tolerated our dogs while waiting for the parts to arrive. John even let us use his brand-new pickup to go shopping! By mid-day Wednesday we were on our way again. Cost was slightly over $1000.
Breaking down in a strange place is not a pleasant experience. However, the people we encountered were nothing but pleasant and helpful. If you have to break down, Idaho Falls is a good place to do it! Good Sams Emergency Road Service came through for us too.
Symptoms: Lost power steering and after stopping, power brakes locked up.
Effect: Initially very hard to steer, then unable to move.
Cause: Power take-off to hydraulic pump stripped on both ends.
Outcome: Required 2 components, one available in Pocatello, the other had to come from Reno. The parts supplier in Reno despite charging for expedited service, didn't manage to get the part to UPS, costing an extra day down-time. Have had no further problems with this, but wonder if it was under-designed!
Seems like breakdowns fall into the catagories of bad luck, someone's screw-up, or possible systemic problems with a make, model, component, or the like. Can't do much about luck. The screw-ups, whether by owner or "service" people, can help up all to learn how to avoid the same problem, but generally don't relate to a problem with the particular rig. The biggest benefit of this effort might be to identify the systemic problems, which seems to be the original intent. Might be worth sorting the tales of woe into such catagories to make it most useful.
Colton Meyer
Bob, Jan & Lizzy(long hair doxie] 2000 Adventurer
Note: Due to invalid formatting, all formatting has been ignored.
Badeye... LOL..... sometimes it's a "wing and a prayer", "seat of the pants" and/or "lady luck"... I love it.... life in a MH is plain and simple.... a different world..... Rick
eaver MonterayDrive line: (3129 cat 300 hp, Allison 6 sp.)
Miles: 34,000
Year:1997
Break Down Description: Friday 10/22/04 noon stopped for lunch on Natchez trace at miss./Tenn. Border Could not start Engine to go on to Nashville.
Symptoms: Engine would turn over at normal starting speed but would not start. Acted like it was not getting fuel but would not start. Called road side service but wrecker was too small to tow M/H. Mach held rag soaked in gasoline over intake, engine would start and run for a few seconds. (please don't try this trick as it looked very dangerous to me.) I found One in line Fuse holder From Chassis Battery's but it was good. engine would still not start.
Effect
Cause: Fraightliner M/H tech found Two more In line fuse holders that had fallen down behind Chassis battery's (if I had seen the holders I would have checked same) holders were full of water and fuse (15 amp and 20 amp) spades were corroded so bad that engine computer was getting low voltage. Fuse holders replaced new fuses and holders filled with dio-elect grease to keep water out in the future.
Outcome: Engine ran perfectly 2'200 more miles to get us back home with out a hitch.
Cost: Insurance tow 150 miles (Mad at insurance co because it took a night and 1 day to convince them we needed a big tow rig with a 10 ft reach to tow M/H to nearest shop that would work on M/H's.)
$731 parts and labor
$200 Motel bill
Update: Called Monoco "Beaver" Motorcoaches and they went back through there records and run me a copy of all the electric schematics for my coach. People at Monoco Company were very helpful and went out of there way to find schematics for my 7 year old coach.
* This post was edited 12/18/04 04:35pm by Toot Mc *
Coach House 261 XL Platinum
2009 Lincoln MKX AWD
Airforce1 towd Brake system
2011 VESPA GTV 300
US Navy 1954->62, EM-1, USS Boxer CVA-21, USS Essex CVA-9
Please add me to your list of interested RVers to receive Breakdown information. This is quite a task you have offered to undertake. We are in the process of purchasing our first MH (35' 1999 Winnebago Chieftian) and any information regarding breakdowns will be very valuable.
Thanks in advance for all your work!
Sandy & Aubrey
BirdWoman & Hubby
Jade & Mickey our feathered travelers
1999 Chieftian 35U V10
Banks System
2006 CR-V toad
WIT F356563 Good Sam
Rallies 3
Ford F53 460 V8
38,000 miles, bought in 2002 with 22000 miles
2004 Honda Element toad
1. Right front blowout on a five year old Michelin, properly inflated with no cracks. Replaced with G rated, 14 ply GoodYears. Will replace fronts every four years from now on.
2. Lost brake pedal in slow rolling, stop and go traffic; both fronts hot and boiled fluid out. Mobile RV guy recommended new Hydra booster and vacuum booster ($1400). I passed. Pedal returned after it cooled. I drove home re-bled with hight temp fluid, drove another year, no repeat UNTIL I got stuck in a bridge closing detour with SLOW ROLLING, STOP AND GO TRAFFIC. Both fronts hot again and boiled out fluid again. FORD Truck dealer blamed it on sticky caliper slides and replaces all four calipers $1200. Fine for another month UNTIL I GOT STUCK IN SLOW ROLLING STOP AND GO TRAFFIC AGAIN (sound familiar?) This time I caught it early. Both fronts hot again, ( I bought a Sears infrared temp gun heh, heh, heh) but I figure out the fronts drag for about 5-10 seconds after you take your foot off brake, so in slow stop and go traffic, they keep getting hotter and hotter. I searched this (wonderul) forum and replaced both front hoses, which seems to have fixed it, but every once in awhile, I can hear them drag for a few seconds when leaving a fuel stop. I am going to replace the master cylinder paying close attention to the piston rod spacing, as one contributer said there was a TSB on improper spacing.
3. Drove this coach for 10,000 miles before losing power, sputtering, backfiring, etc going up a mid size incline in SC. You could turn the key on and off and it would be OK for another hour, day, two days, etc. Got really bad the higher you went. Ford truck dealer in Philly wanted $4500 to replace gas tank saying filter was clogged, tank rusty. I told him to attempt aeronautical intercourse with a motivating pastry, limped it back to FL. Did a search of this (wonderful) site and diagnosed a bad fuel pump WHICH IS A KNOWN PROBLEM THAT ALL FORD TRUCK DEALERS HAVE RECEIVED A TSB about (TSB #97-23-9). I have a new pump and am trying to find a Ford mechanic that has done it a few times.
NON-SHOW STOPPPERS
4. Rear camera intermittent, found a bad solder joint on a PC board in engine compartment.
5. All four HWH jacks needed rebuilding at purchase.
6. Woke up about 6:00AM one morning to the sound of water running in the bathroom; washer machine valve (never installed) decide to cut loose. GLAD we were there for that one!!!
7. Right rear tag brake not working. Took apart and put back together and it works. I think the magnet was hung up on its slide. Greased and seems fine.
8. HWH jack controller went dead, no lights, power to control panel fine. Went to take cover off and as I started to unscrew the first screw the lights came on. There are spring loaded contacters that provide power to the LEDS and switches. I used a pencil eraser to clean, fine ever since.
9. Onan quit outputing at 750 hours. I bought troubleshooting guide from Onan, and narrowed it down to a bad rotor. I didn't have a garage then and you can't return it if that isn't the problem, so took it to dealer, who confirmed and replaced. $750 for rotor, $350 labor. SOlved.
10. A year later, at 1100 hrs. Onan starts surging and would sometime shut off, voltage probably out of spec. On a whim, I bought a can of carb cleaner. When I touched a wrench to one of the nuts holding on the carb, it was less than finger tight. Tightened and it was fine. Removed carb and cleaned anyway. Fine now at 1500 hours.
11.Right exhaust manifold repaired twice, broken bolt replaced the first time.
12. Kwikee step motor burned out and replaced. Suspect cruddy crimp job from factory a contributing factor. Works like it never worked before now.
13. Leak under kitch sink due to loose drain pipes. Dam rough roads!
14. Toilet valve developed leak. Could have replaced valve but bought new ceramic toilet which was one of my better decisions in a while.
15. Lots of other minor things that justify bringing tools along.
Replaced all hoses and belts within a few months of purchase. Bilsteins, new steering damper, etc. No leaks, no problems with slide, fridge, AC's, dogs or wife. Check engine light came on once. On the Honda, not the wife.
GOD, I LOVE MOTORHOMING!!!
particulars: Monaco Windsor
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): Cummins 275 6 sp Allison
Miles: ~72,000
Year: 1996
Break Down Description: A while after parking in a campground between Ann Arbor & Detroit, noticed a wet spot under the motorcoach, well away from the water compartment. It was diesel fuel, the drip rate was high, and this was a Sat evening! We had driven I77 north thru Ohio, possibly the roughest road we've ever been on. Went out to a Walmat, bought a metal pan & funnel, and spend the next 36 hrs pouring fuel back into the tank. On Mon, drove to a Cummins Service Center near Grand Rapids, which was near our destination.
Symptoms: fuel leak
Effect:
Cause: split seam on tank
Outcome: Spent 2 nights camping in the service bay while tank was pulled, sent to a local company to be rewelded, & reinstalled.
Bill & Ann Davis
1995 36' CC Intrigue
WHTAL!FE
Time's a wastin'
mombum
'00 Winnebago Journey DP
'02 Saturn
'00 Red Dachsie, Molly
Thanks
Driveline: Cat/Allison
Headed North out of Nashville back of coach filled up with hazy smoke and an excited dear wife describing same. Did an immediate pull off with bad thoughts overloading the frontal lobes. The discharge line from the AC compressor came loose at the flare nut connection, obviously never properly tightened, lost the freon and blasted the hot motor with the oil entrained in the freon, lots of smoke but luckily no fire, shut off AC and finished the trip with roof air only. Have since lost two alternators and one set of belts to the hydraulic pump, am very happy with the overall quality of the coach.
hoodbird
1989 Southwind P30 chassis, 454Chev.
My Chev. has broken the serpintine type belt driving the water pump twice. This installation turns the water pump in the standard direction whereas the newer serpintine belts turn backwards from what we are used to. The problem seems to be that the contact only covers less than 45 degrees of surface of the fan pully. When the fan clutch engages the belt will slip and burn up.
I am installing Flexolite m/n 295 and removing the driven fan entirely. I hope the earlier chassis has the "V" belts. Jesse
San Benito
Drivers, I have had the same trouble as nantra, but it will eventully start. Where exactly is the relay and what does it look like. I thought it may have something to do with the shift lever and neutral switch.
1989 Southwind P30 chassis, 454Chev.
My Chev. has broken the serpintine type belt driving the water pump twice. This installation turns the water pump in the standard direction whereas the newer serpintine belts turn the pump backwards from what we are used to. The problem seems to be that the contact covers less than 45 degrees of surface of the fan pully. When the fan clutch engages, the belt will slip and burn up.
I am installing Flexolite m/n 295 and removing the driven fan entirely. I hope the earlier chassis has the "V" belts.
Check list format is a great idea! Good Sam ERS has saved me twice. Jesse
RV particulars
Driveline (Engine, Transmission):454-4bbl
Miles:48000
Year:1989
Break Down Description: (You can add any description of the problem here that you think would help others in understanding the situation and problem.)
Symptoms: engine popping and backfireing under load,( going uphill)
Effect: a pulsation feel in the coach and a popping sound while driving up some grades. Cause:never really found out. I did change all the plugs & wires, cap,rotor,ignition control module
Outcome:This did work for a while but the problem came back after about 2 to 3,000 miles. Also I did replace burned out #8 plug wire twice during this problem time frame. Traded in the coach with 52,000 miles
2001 suncrusier, V10, 32-v, dinning slide, 1 wife, 1 westie, life is good! 03 malibu toad sometimes,
On two lane mountain road fourteen miles in from main highway and no cell reception oil light came on. stopped and checked oil stick, coach had just been serviced and had full oil. hopeing it was a sensor we babied it the last few miles to pay phone, lifters were rattling by then. Had towed to workhorse contract dealer in Lompoc. Three weeks later picked coach up with new engine on warranty and a few personal items that had been taken from the coach while at the dealers service center, of course their employees had nothing to do with the ripped out stereo and greasy foot prints on the bed.
cause of problem was a broken shaft in the oil pump, have read other posts of this same problem with the work hoarse but no recall as yet,it must be a corporate buisness decision.
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): Cummins, Allison
Miles: 100,000
Year: 1997
Break Down Description: (You can add any description of the problem here that you think would help others in understanding the situation and problem.)
Symptoms: Front left tire blew out
Effect: Pulled me into the left lane
Cause: Michelin
Outcome: Replaced with Goodyear
Glen
1997, 40' Mountain Aire DP, one slide
325 Cummins, 6 speed Allison
Toad - Jeep Wrangler
534 cid Ford, Allison MT640
101,000 Original owner used coach on weekend jaunts to CA State Parks
1977
Stranded in rest area in NW Georgia (near Calhoun) Drove in - shut off engine - ran genset to power microwave - restarted drove 110 yds -
stalled - restart - stalled - restart ad infinitum. Called GA Highway Patrol, got referral for Cherokee Auto Repair. Mechanic and helper made repeated service calls - got engine to run long enough to get to his shop (used pre-owned ignition module).
Start/Stall/Restart
Coach could not move more than 30 ft. for 3 days
Aftermarket Electronic Ignition Failure (Magnapulse)
Shop installed current Ford OEM electronic ignition, had to fabricate new A/C compressor bracket because new distributor 6" taller. New coil and ignition module (spares provided) Milage increased from 3.9 mpg to as much as 6.4 mpg towing a 2000 Jeep Cherokee! Coach will run 70-75 mph but we employ an Audivox cruise control to run a steady 60 mph.
Little Jim
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): 330 hp Detroit Diesel 40
Allison 3060
Miles: 33800
Year: 1998
Break Down Description: Purchased coach from PPL in Houston as consignment vehicle. During initial trip to Dallas, experienced engine missing with blue smoke and loss of power after driving 200 miles.
Symptoms: Engine missing with loss of power and lots of blue smoke from exhaust.
Effect: Road service found fuel filter problem due to water in fuel (coach has no water/fuel separator).
Cause: Coach had not been used for some time and water condensed in fuel tank. My inexperience (my first RV) and PPL's lack of forethought caused the problem.
Outcome: Delayed four hours, cost $300 for service call, caused a lot of second thoughts about purchase. After having unit serviced and taking short trips, life is much better.
Bob & Elinor
1998 40' SSDP CC Magna 330 Detroit Diesel
2005 Honda CRV
This is one of my more challenging trips. Our route, Mt. Vernon MO. to Paducha KY for the National Quilt show. We wanted to travel only secondary highways and enjoy the country side.
I emptied my auxiliary 40 gallon tank, and transferred to the main 60 gallon tank, oops, motor home engine quit, electric fuel pumps chattering, but no fuel pressure. Now the fun begins, we are driving on U.S. 60 a 2 lane with no shoulder. My wife quietly asks are you sure you filled ALL the tanks. Of course I had, when I exited the vehicle I could smell fuel, I looked under our motor home and ahhhh @# a large puddle of fuel under the rear of our vehicle, I asked Dee (my wife) to turn on the ignition switch. When switched on, the fuel gushes out from the top of the fuel tank.
Not only do I have a motor home which will not run, but I also have U.S. 60 East bound traffic blocked. We belong to Good Sam and I have their towing service, but no way am I going too just sit here and wait. My other choice is drop my toad (1996 Cherokee jeep) move it to the front, and attaching a tow strap from the jeep to the motor home, now thats the easy part, trying to convince my wife to drive the jeep with the monster behind her is another story. But off we go blazing down the highway at approximately 8 miles per hour. About 2 or three mile down the highway I spotted an area I thought would accommodate our motor home; I called Dee over the CB and asked her to gently start moving off the road, in a gentle and calm her reply ARE YOU CRAZY , no I state the motor home should fit.
We are now off the highway, and the traffic is again moving at a normal pace. WOW the angle on the shoulder is a bit more than I had anticipated, but no problem.
My dear wife a little pale asks NOW will you call for a tow truck, of course not (that would be like me asking for directions). I disconnect the jeep and start driving, looking for an auto parts store.
I purchased 30 if 3/8 rubber fuel line, an electric fuel pump and 50 of 12ga. Wire. When we returned to the motor home I transferred 40 gals. of fuel from the main tank to the auxiliary tank.
We are now ready to hit the road, well not just yet, I now have a problem the motor home is now leaning a bit more than I anticipated and the left rear duals are not getting any traction, not enough weight on the axle and we are on wet grass. The look I received from Dee was enough, no comments were needed.
Nothing ventured, nothing gained, I again hooked the jeep to the motor home placed the jeep in 4 wheel drive (pleaded for the wife to help, so help me she has this thing about tow trucks), and with a little coaxing we were back on the road.
After the trip, I dropped the main tank, the problem very simple to repair. The hose clamps are made of spring steel and over the years had rusted away, with an electric fuel pump in the tank, coupled with a rough road, the main fuel line simply slipped off. All fuel lines now have new SS clamps.
Rex and Dee
Morgan
The Beast
1986 Itasca
754GAS
68000MILES
COMPLETE ELECTRICAL SHUTDOWN ,COACH AND ENGINE, WHILE SLOWING FOR TRAFFIC.
DEALER FOUND NOTHING WRONG .STARTED UP FOR HIM. BEEN DRIVING EVER SINCE.
MY GUESS --BAD COMMON GROUND .
Great idea - as a computer consultant we/I can add this info to a database. I'd be glad to set one up.
you can find number and description of breakdowns by motorhome manufacturer, by year, by category (elect, water, mechanical, etc).
Also, cost of the repair and by whom.
Just a thought...
Let me know what you think ??
Chuck and Jeanne (Almost Full-timing)
2005 Georgie Boy CruiseMaster 3600DS
Tow: KarKaddy 460SS W/2004 Honda Accord
Current Location
FMCA, Passport, Thousand Trails, Resort Properties, Int'l
Live life like it's your last day on earth!
Great rendering of your story! But why are you paying your ERS premiums if you don't think you need the service? We've used our AAA service numerous times over the years for various maladies and it on one occasion got us out of a pretty hairy situation on a high-speed highway where I couldn't get off to the side. Of course my rig weighs 7 tons and I don't tow a 4X4, so I might have been tempted I reckon. But for Dee's sake and sanity... I mean you pay for the ERS so why not use it. I can attest, except for tiny ego bruises, it really doesn't hurt a bit.
12-7-04 Left Texas T RV park on I-65 in Cornersville Tn. 35 miles south engine quits just like key turned off, coast to shoulder and know I have big problems. After 15 minutes try to start and bingo it starts running. Drive south to Decator Al to Race Track Gas station about 30 miles get 5 cans of dry gas and a tank of fuel thinking water in gas. Go to start at the gas pumps and will not start. Crank starter on and off for about 10 minutes and it starts. Jump back on I-65 drive 135 miles to about 30 miles south of Birmingham Al and bingo engine quits again. It is now 11am and I am really frustrated. But thinking I am lucky it did not quit while going thru Brimingham, Al with all that traffic. This time it quit for good and would not start. Called Prattville Al, RV, the closet Workhorse Service center to my location which is about 55 miles north of Prattville. RV service center said very busy but will get us in asap which might be a couple of days. They send 82 wrecker service in Parttville to get us. Wrecker arrives 1:30pm Big Peterbilt. Very professional Owner who is also the driver and has one assistant. Hook up motorhome in very heavy Semi traffic, motor home shakes everytime one goes buy. Assistant goes under motorhome to unhook drive shaft. Suddenly load bang of metal hitting concrete. I look under motorhome and assistant is in convulsions with blood coming from nose, mouth and ears and he is not saying a word. Owner runs over and is in a panic. Wife calls 911 on cell for ambulance as this does not look good. Pull assistant out with assistance of owner and he is unconsious and has a very obvious crushed skull at forehead above nose. 6 First responders arrive, followed by two ambulances, two state troopers and a county sheriffs dep. Amubulance medics say this is not good and call for Medivac Helicopter from University of Alabama Med Center in Birmingham. 3:30pm Troopers Block off all southbound lanes of I-65 chopper lands in middle of southbound lanes. Doctor on chopper also agrees this is not good and spends two hours working on victim. Traffic blocked all this time. 5:30pm Chopper leaves for Birmingham and traffic was backed up all the way to Birmingham. Wrecker tows us to Parttville, spend two days waiting. Third day mechanic has it fixed in an hour. Crank Position sensor failed. Cost $264 for towing(reimbursed by GMAC Ins) $178 for crank sensor and $600 for driveshaft repair (pinion yoke and universal) Assistant with crushed skull after two brain surgeries and three weeks in intensive care is going to live but will have to learn how to walk and talk all over again. He has a wife, 3 kids and no insurance nice guy too. Alabama put him on Medicade. 82 Wrecker great people, Prattville RV excellent service at a reasonable price.
Kert.
Kert and Cindi Maul, Karter (Golden Retriver) & Ruby (Yorkie/Maltese)
'04 Itaska 40AD 330 H.P. C-7 Cat.
Toad '01 Yamaha Road Star Warrior.
mcracer@iwon.com
You keep do'in what yo're do'in
You keep gettin what you got! States in '05
Cedar Creek Rv Owners Club
Jim & Jeni
2007 Monaco Dynasty Squire LE
2003 Suzuki Grand Vitara Toad
Good Sam Life Time & FMCA Members
If you do not ask, the answer will ALWAYS be no.
jimmyrain2000@gmail.com
Gregg, Sandy, & daughter Tori
'93 Gulfstream Friendship 38', Cummins 300 HP Diesel on a Spartan chassis.
The next time we decided to go somewhere it was christmas 04. Wife and I and her relatives who came from russia, did I mention she is from russia, we decided to go to L.A. by way of las vegas. We get to the heritage museum in western Nebraska, I notice the motorhome was leaning on its left rear. I thought maybe it was parked in a hole where I park after all the parking lot was unlevel gravel. Next day we stop in colorado for gas, I thought damn this motorhome is leaning more, but dismiss it as the ground wasn't really level there either. Did I mention I was having electrical problems with AC outlets on the slide. We had an elcetric heater plug into the ac outlet on the slide. Wife plug in a hair dryer and blew out the electric ac. I thought no problem I will just reset the breakers, murphy again strikes, still does not work, tried reseting the GFCI breakers, still no luck. I still have this problem as I write this but there is too much cold and snow to bother with it now. Anyway back to the trip to L.A. We finally get to Las vegas and we decided to stop at circus circus campground. By this time the motorhome was really leaning on the left rear and when driving over bumps on the road I would hear scrapping noises. By this time another lite comes on, after all I was driving a ford chassis wasn't I, I HAVE A PROBLEM. I take it to an RV service shop to see what the problem was, they found that the mor ryde rear suspension was going out. There is 4 rubber pads which looks like big engine mounts which were tearing apart. Guess what, they couldn't handle this problem, so they sent me to another shop, which sent me to a truck shop, in the city of las vegas no less, and I don't know the city. I luck out this time and the truck shop knew exactly where I should go which was only 3 miles from where I was camped at. They gave me the phone # and had me to call this shop right there. I told him what the problem was, and he says "OH YES, YOU HAVE THE MOR RYDE SYSTEM", I say the what, and just what is that. By this time it is late afternoon, he says to bring it in 1st. thing in the morning and he would take a look. Next morning I, not so brite eyed and bushy tail, gets there, He says "yep" and walks to the phone and calls Indiana for the parts and has them to overnite the parts to him. A little history, this guy has done so many of these @#$%^ mor ryde systems he is on a first name basis with the guy in indiana. After he is done talking to the guy he gives me an estimate on the damage. The price was to be in the mid $900 range and it turn out to be $963. He said come back brite and early the next day and his crew would get right on it, and he promised it would be done before quitting time which it was. I was glad I pulled my car so we had a way to get around while it was being worked on. After we got the motorhome we continued on our trip, I notice another potential problem. The oil pressure is slow to come up when cold, by cold it is around freezing or lower. When the engine is warm, it seems to be ok. I don't know if the previous owner put too heavy oil in or if the sending unit is bad or an inpending oil pump failure. I will look at it when it gets warmer and the snow is gone. I hate these @#$%^ iowa winters.
So far I am batting a 100% rating, two big trips and two major problems and I have only had it since july. I learn more things about mor ryde than I care to know, I do not have a good opinion of mor ryde either. The only reason I haven't decided to sell it is because it is in good condition inside and we practically stole it for a song.
Will
janeshure@yahoo.com
* This post was edited 02/04/05 04:44am by an administrator/moderator *
you could of had it replaced for free call 1800-4443311 ,maybe ford will reimburse you,,,not knowing what viscosity oil you have could be damaging your 460,don't be stupid and change it,,now you should worry about your fuel pump going bad,there was problems with them,also try to get some headers,problems with 460 exhaust bolts,,,,good luck,you have a good motor baby it,thanks for your post
2007 Majestic 28A
Life rocks when your home rolls
47,000 miles
450 Cummins
3 weeks before our maiden voyage 2/7/05 I go out and start up the coach. before I realize whats happening I burn off the alternator belt. I figure we just have a hot spot and it needs to be spun. So i loosen it up with a ratchet and replace the belt. Today I go out and crank her up to get get some new tires on the back (after reading some tire posts on this board I realized my rear tires are 7 years old and not in sooo good of shape)and a bearing lets go and man does it make an awful racket. So of to the reman shop we go.
Just glad it happened now and not on the road. But it definately made me understand why people carry extra belts and tools.
Senior Member
North Fort Myers, FL. USA
Re: complete electrical shut down
It happened last spring to us, with our, then 2000 Pace Arrow Vision. The Rv would just stop dead, no electricl power. First check of battery connection looked good, Note these were the original OEM batterys. RV would then restart after minutes or hours. We had it hauled to an electrician, who couldn't find a problem. Took it to a Ford dealer after the third occurance, he thought he found a loose connection. After the fourth occurance, I changed the Chassis battery and had no further problems. I had some suspicion that there was likely a broken plate/terminal inside the battery, as one of the terminals had some slight side to side movement. The problem gave no warning, either instrumentation or performance. Possible a combination of a battery beyond its normal service life and or an internal failure, that was exacerbated by a heavy jolt or vibration.
Have someone check the battery under load to see if that is the cause. Hope it's as simple as that
Phil
* This post was edited 02/11/05 02:06pm by philepler *
2005 Winnebago Journey 32T
2005 Honda CR-V EX
Henderson, NV
Make a Fast Friend, Adopt a Racing Greyhound
philepler on Page 32 did a great job referring to name (lil trucker) and message heading (Complete Electrical Shutdown) he was responding to!
But, unfortunately, most people do not do it that way.
Thank you in advance!
Michael & Susan
'06 Winnebago View 23H
'05 HR Neptune 34SBD
'96 Fleetwood Flair 22D
A727 transmission
Refused to start.
She Who Must Be Obeyed and I were in Nevada (Wendover). We had been there two days. I started the Whiny Beggar every morning, because she was new (to us), and I didn't know just how good the inverter/converter system was. No problems. She started up.
When we were ready to leave, I pulled up to the office to pick up a minor cosmetic part. When I came back, she refused to start. So, I went back in the store and purchased a can of starting fluid. After half a can, she finally started.
We wended our way across I-80 to Salt Lake City. No problems (other than the winds I was fighting). The next morning, she started up with no problem.
We finally made it home (Ogden, UT), and used her a time or two more, but with some problem in getting her started. The starter would groan, but eventually kick her.
Eventually, it turned out that the problem was the starter motor. The one in her was original. (We had to take it out with a hammer. Once the bolts were out, the motor wouldn't even budge.)
In the meantime, I had replaced the starter relay, the voltage regulator, and various sundry other parts.
What fooled me is that she WOULD start on occasion. Just sometimes she wouldn't, and it didn't seem to matter what the temperture was, the humidity, etc.
Ed
Old Ed Brady
No doubt you have found the problem.
Mine was a 150 smp 12 volt breaker attached to the frame back after near the engine/rear axle.
Let me know, if you can, what happened with yours. Oh yes, mine was intermittent and I could tell it was back inline by the four way flashers coming on (I was outside).
Cheers
Ted Stiles 2003 37' Coachmen Cross Counrty 5.9 cummings, 260 hp, Allison 5 spd 97 Saturn toad[b]
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When you leave this earth the only things you will take with you are those things you've given away.
Yesterday, while on a family outing, after about an hour of normal driving there was a loud bang in the rear and immediately the engine temperature started rising. I exited at the next interstate exit and stopped in a safe place.
The engine fan belt had broken. Luckily I had a fan belt on board and "The Good Sam" service mechanic had us up and running in about two hours from breakdown to back on the road.
Lessons relearned: Carry extra belts with you and it helps to have emergency service insurance. Also, scan your instrument panel at reguler short intervals.
'96 Allegro Bus
1 wife
4 grandkids
0 dogs and cats
Unfortunately I have to be a contributor to this thread.
Last August when we were north bound on I-39 somewhere between Bloomington, Ill. and Rockford, Ill. I went over a bump in the road caused by road construction.
All of a sudden my coach had no power. No electrical, no transmission, no engine, no nothing. I managed to coast to the side of the road and their we sat. When I turned my ignitions switch, to attempt to start the coach, nothing happened. I waited a few minutes and tried again and it started only to stop running again. I then went and looked into the battery compartment to see if maybe a battery had came loose and was shorting out against something but they were okay.
I then went back and attempted to start the coach and it started right up. It kept running so we headed out and made it back to Stevens Point, Wisconsin without further incident.
I took the coach up to my dealer who looked the coach over from front to back but they couldn't find a thing wrong with it. So, somewhere in my coach I have a problem waiting to jump out and bite me and there's nothing I can do to prevent it. Scary ain't it.
Had a problem something like yours only coach would not start after fueling. Towed, started at repair shop, they could not locate problem. another time one year later same problem but started after setting. two years later it became more frequent. Cummins west finally got it to duplicate problem. Was a wiring connection where wire was short of normal causing a connection that would pull away and not make contact. They lenghend wire and no problem since. I would bet on a connection that had no contact temporarily and caused your problem.
VERITAS PRAEVALEBIT
Date of incident May, 2003
RV particulars: 2000 Country Coach 40'
Driveline Cummins ISC 330, Allison 4000
Miles:11,000
Break Down Description: Engine Quit
Symptoms: Everything stopped, all gauges went to zero, no warning lights, power steering, all indications of ignition key being turned off.
Effect: Fortunately we were on a private road to our church parking lot. We were going only about 10MPH so we pulled over without incident. Could have been dicey anywhere else.
Cause: This was the first time we had driven the MH with cats on board. Being new to this environment, the cats hid in the bedroom closet and only came out when things were quiet. When I started up the engine and started moving, they stayed in the closet until we went over the first speed bump on the road to our church. This, along with clothes falling on them and cans crashing out of the pantry, caused them to race to the front of the MH and away from the noise. One cat, an 18 lb Main Coon, had previously discovered a safe place under the dash to hide to which she made a beeline. In the confusion and turmoil of the speed bump, neither of us knew she had gone there, but in her dash to safety, she pulled the wire harness away from the ignition switch.
Outcome: After checking out the chassis battery and other electrical connections that might have been ignition related, the absence of any wires attached to the ignition switch was discovered. Reconnecting the harness fixed the problem. After an additional search, cat was found hiding in the vacant area behind passenger side dash panel.
Solution: 1) Safety wired harness to ignition switch, 2) cardboarded and duct taped underside of dash to prevent cat entry, 3) put cats in cage in dingy when underway.
Postscript: As cats became accustomed to travel, they now ride in the motorhome, unsupervised on the bed, most of the time sleeping while underway. The engine now seems to have a calming effect.
Oh yeah, and I now drive very slowly over speed bunps.
Cats are not compatable with your Cummins engine only a CAT engine. You shoukd have known better.
John & Susan Dudley
Andy, the English Springer Spaniel
1999 Coachmen SportsCoach
275 Cummins, 6 speed Allison
Master Tow dolly, with surge brakes
(39 foot Class A Diesel Pusher)
Spartan Chassis, 300hp Cummins, Allison 5 speed
The engine just died while driving. Felt like someone turned the key off. Was able to pull over on the side of the road where I inspected the ignition switch and battery compartment area.
After about 5 minutes I got back in and it cranked up like nothing had happened. I didn't like the fact that it 'fixed' itself so I done a thorough inspection of the front electrical compartment being sure to touch every item in the compartment.
I found out that the Run Relay was extremely hot. I continued on home, not using dash A/C or headlights which let the relay cool somewhat. The next day I replaced the relay with a new one from NAPA. Never had the problem since. The relay looks similar to the old Ford starter relays but it's designed for continuous use - buy the correct replacement. I now carry spares, not only this relay but also one of every type of circuit breaker and relay (there are dozens).
Cheers,
Dennis
08 33 windsport 22k towing 06 saturn ion
Smoky's Den
2001 KSO1 Travel Supreme
PT Cruiser Toad
Wheaton Terrier dog
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MOHOMER
2003 DISCOVERY 38T
2003 TRACKER
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Using the Emergency start switch to tie the two battery systems together did not cause any other damage or problems. The house batteries did not suffer any unusual damage since as soon as I got the low battery light on the dash, I would start the generator to re-charge, maintain the batteries. This also charged the chassis batteries since they were still tied to the coach betteries. Also the batteries did not fully discharge since the warning light comes on when the voltage drops a small amount. I am not sure what the level is, but it is still high to start the generator or even the engine if needed within about 30 minutes of first seeing it come on.
Doug
When in storage and connected to shore power all seven of our batteries are maintained by the three stage converter/charger.
When dry camping, running the generator, likewise will charge all batteries.
When on the road, again all are charged without the voltage drop normally introduced by the isolator.
Wt. the alternator out, you would still have to do as you did in order to back feed the chassis when the generator was not running.
Jim
* This post was edited 04/03/05 11:13pm by jimraysr *
Miles: ll,640.
Year: 2003 Airsteam Land Yacht
Breakdown Description: pull over for gas fill up, shut off engine
Symptons: never restarted, no power to key or instruments
Effect and Cause: to much of a amp load on the harness to the key. Workhorse overnighted the ignition switch kit
Outcome: This was a trip to a ill family member in Indiana, a 12 hour trip. With this breakdown it took me three days to arrive at our distination.
Problems: Exhaust brake not working, coach surging at 66 - 70 mph.
Diagnosis: Exhaust brake not recieving power signal from the instrument panel. Surging was caused by fuel distributor in fuel pump.
The exhaust brake was diagnosed and fixed on the 2nd day. Fuel pump problem was suspected as the cause of the surging, but the Freightliner dealer was told to first diagnose the problem using Freighliner or Cummins software. It took 2 days to load the diagnostic software onto their laptop. Then Cummins took 2 more days to authorize the Freightliner dealer to work on the Cummins engine. Cummins would not ship the part until the authorization was complete (day 4). This was all due to a Cummins shop down the street. Cummins protects the turf of Cummins dealers. Freightliner could not expedite the process. Due to my Freightliner warranty, I could not go to Cummins first unless I was willing to cover the diagnostic costs in the event the surging problem was not a cummins problem. I was not told about the Cummins issue until day 4. My engine brake repair was a freightliner issue, not cummins. I got my coach back at 5:00 pm on day 5. Just in time to drive back home.
Jerry & Kelly[/blue] Cleveland, OH[blue][/blue] 2006 Newmar Mountain Aire 4304
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Freightliner XC Chassis, Cummins 350 ISC
Problems: Exhaust brake not working, coach surging at 66 - 70 mph.
Diagnosis: Exhaust brake not recieving power signal from the instrument panel. Surging was caused by fuel distributor in fuel pump.
The exhaust brake was diagnosed and fixed on the 2nd day. Fuel pump problem was suspected as the cause of the surging, but the Freightliner dealer was told to first diagnose the problem using Freighliner or Cummins software. It took 2 days to load the diagnostic software onto their laptop. Then Cummins took 2 more days to authorize the Freightliner dealer to work on the Cummins engine. Cummins would not ship the part until the authorization was complete (day 4). This was all due to a Cummins shop down the street. Cummins protects the turf of Cummins dealers. Freightliner could not expedite the process. Due to my Freightliner warranty, I could not go to Cummins first unless I was willing to cover the diagnostic costs in the event the surging problem was not a cummins problem. I was not told about the Cummins issue until day 4. My engine brake repair was a freightliner issue, not cummins. I got my coach back at 5:00 pm on day 5. Just in time to drive back home.
sounds like a lot of Cummins breakdowns,alot of diesel breakdowns,i can't work on them wish i knew how,thats why i trust my 460 to death ,it won't let me down knock on wood,,,want to learn diesel have to hit some books,,thanks for posting everyone,,good forum topic
This is a great thread. Hope you haven't bitten off more than you can chew, though.
Thanks,
...........................Tim
RV particulars: Itasca Suncruiser
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): Workhorse Vortec 7.4
Miles: 12,000
Year: 2000
Break Down Description: Three of four bolts (there are two on each side) holding the sway bar to the A frames broke. Were supposed to be grade 8 according to the markings. I called Workhorse and they said they had never heard of the problem. We have never abused the coach and it's never been off-road (use the four wheeler for that).
Symptoms: Sloppy driving, diving in corners
Effect: Made my wife nervous; then she made me nervous
Cause: Still unknown
Outcome: Out of warranty, so I talked to my neighbor (he owns a precision machine shop). He told me that they could have been foreign bolts and not really up to grade 8 standards. He gave me some new, all-american made grade 10's. I installed them and haven't had a problem since.
* This post was edited 04/10/05 04:43pm by Hyrolr *
Tim and Christine
In loving memory of:
Greta the totally spoiled Lab
and family's best travel companion
(March 1993-July 2005)
2000 Itasca Suncruiser
2002 Chevy Trailblazer toad w/Brakebuddy
........."Life is a Highway"
While we are talking about Workhorse...ours is in the driveway with the 2nd melted ignition switch. We are 4 months out of factory warranty, but had it replaced 7/5/04 in warranty. I am awaiting a call from the dealer to see if Workhorse will step up and provide "updated" switch w/relay. Is there anything else I should do?
Jakcheese
Jackcheese and Motlah
2006 Dolphin LX 6320 W22 Workhorse chassis
Traveling southern Illinois on 57 where it changes to 24, I thought you guys need to spend some money fixing these roads. Drove for another 10 miles until I could'nt take it anymore. Pulled over to take a look and found my mud flap on the ground. After further review I realized I had no air in my rear end, and a threaded rod, with no nut dangled from underneath the center of the rear end. Spartan techs told me to slip it into a plate and I'd be good to go. Knowing better, I went to the closest hardware store, picked up a 11 cent lock nut and 2 washers and permanently fixed it. By the way, the rod had already come out of the bracket by the time I got to the hardware store, go figure.
Good Sam had a tire guy to us in forty five minutes, which I think is pretty remarkable. Even though we had a spare, it was unusable because of its position under the RV and uncovered. So, it was struck by everything passing under the RV. LESSON: If you have a spare, and it is under the RV, cover it with something to protect it.
As a result of the spare not being good, the tire guy drove 75 miles to El Paso to pick up a new tire. Naturally, Good Sam would only pay for the cost of the guy to get us off the road. It was almost 10:00 PM when tire was finally mounted and put on the RV. We spent the night in a dirt field behind a Mexican Restaurant. The next day, we drive to Las Cruces, NM and stayed in a campground/RV repair shop named RV DOC. This shop kindly performed temporary repairs quickly so we could get back on the road.
These tires were only four and a half years old, covered when parked, inflation checked every other day when traveling, and inflated to the proper pressure. It is just one of those mysterious that happen on occasion. I did,however, buy five more tires just for the satisfaction of safety. They were Michelin XRV's 235/80/22.5.
THEN, while pulling from a fuel stop in Alpine, CA the "low water" light came on then went out. I added a little coolant, but when in Las Vegas, I noticed a drip on the parking pad. A visit was paid to the Freight Liner Oasis there and a broken radiator was found. That visit cost an extra three days and two nights in a hotel , plus a substantial repair bill.
However in seven years of RV'ing, this was our first real trouble on the road. We are home now, and by the way, I don't want to give the RV away anymore.
Carry a spare ballast resistor. Most are rectangular white ceramic, roughly 1" wide and 4" to 5" long, with two electrical connectors and a single mounting screw. Unlike voltage regulators and starter relays, ballast resistors are not grounded and may be mounted on nonconducting material such as plastic.
The ballast resistor reduces voltage to the coil, thereby increasing sparkplug life. The starting circuit bypasses the ballast resistor, resulting in a hotter spark when starting.
Symptoms of a bad ballast resistor: Your vehicle fires while you hold the key in the start position (because of the bypass) and dies as soon as you let go of the key (because in the run position, current is supplied to the coil through the ballast resistor).
I haven't bought one in a while but I seem to recall that my spares were less than $20.
As an emergency fix, you can connect the two electrical leads together but doing so will shorten the life of your sparkplugs and other ignition components.
I first encountered this problem on my '77 Dodge B200 van, purchased new and well maintained. My 1970 Explorer motorhome, on a 1969 Dodge M300 chassis, also has a ballast resistor but hasn't needed a new one yet.
The bad ballast resistor kept my van from going anywhere and frustrated me because I couldn't figure out what was wrong. (I'm a fairly good mechanic with extensive knowledge of the electrical systems in older vehicles - I can draw most of the typical wiring diagrams from memory.) A friend suggested I check the ballast resistor, saving me the expense of a tow. (I bought him a case of his favorite beer in thanks.)
I've heard of enough similar experiences from other people to convince me to always carry a spare. I haven't heard of any going out while the vehicle is moving although I imagine it's possible. All of the cases I've heard of showed up while trying to start the vehicle, leading me to believe a current spike during shutdown or starting cause the ballast resistor to fail.
Hope this helps someone.
1970 Explorer Class A on a 1969 Dodge M300 chassis with 318 cu. in. (split year)
1972 Executive Class A on a Dodge M375 chassis with 413 cu. in.
1973 Explorer Class A on a Dodge RM350 (R4) chassis ... no engine or tranny (yet)
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): Chevy 454
Miles: 35,000
Year: 2004
Break Down Description / Symptoms: Going up the hill out of Yreka CA the engine started making this sound like air was popping out of the cylinder with each stroke. Then there was a pop and it sounded a lot louder.
Effect: I pulled over to the side and called for assistance.
Cause: One of the spark plugs had come loose and popped out.
Outcome: It didnt take the threads with it, so they put a new sparkplug in and I was back on the road.
April 17, 2005 while driving to Vegas from Los Angeles on I15 at Yermo, no power steering, no alternator voltage, etc) pulled off the freeway and (SURPRISE!) found the alternator belt broken. $391 to tow it to Barstow, $120 to replace the belt and a seven hour delay in my trip to Las Vegas -- it was Sunday afernoon and I figure I was lucky to get it fixed even if it did take 7 hours.
I'm contemplating doing NO PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE FROM NOW ON.
"I Do Not Intend To TipToe Through Life
Only To Arrive Safely At My Death"
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): Cat 3126B / Allison 6
Miles: 61800
Year: 1996
Break Down Description: High-pressure injector pump blew an oil system O-ring.
Symptoms: Engine stopped dead by control computer after spraying 19 qts of oil out the back radiator over a leisurely few hours.
Effect: Dead in the water, but no major damage.
Cause: A 29-cent piece of round rubber went bad, causing $3200 worth of expensive diagnostic and preventative work.
Outcome: Back in service, but now paranoid about oil and other fluid levels.
'99 Glendale Royal Expedition 24' Class C
2003 Subaru WRX wagon as toad.
I noticed you've already been told "if it ain't broke--don't fix it." I respectfully beg to differ. To my untrained ear this sounds more like a case of "you get what you INspect--not what you EXpect."
I have read it opined here (by many) that doing the belts on a 454 in a MH isn't an entry-level job. That may be. But, it's obviously a job there's a way to do *right* and several ways to do wrong (while taking somebody's money for it anyway). Might it pay you to acquire the proper tools and educate yourself how to do this one right, yourself? I wish you success in straightening it out--tools in hand or otherwise.
For everyone with a Dodge gasoline, especially older models:
Carry a spare ballast resistor. Most are rectangular white ceramic, roughly 1" wide and 4" to 5" long, with two electrical connectors and a single mounting screw. Unlike voltage regulators and starter relays, ballast resistors are not grounded and may be mounted on nonconducting material such as plastic.
The ballast resistor reduces voltage to the coil, thereby increasing sparkplug life. The starting circuit bypasses the ballast resistor, resulting in a hotter spark when starting.
Symptoms of a bad ballast resistor: Your vehicle fires while you hold the key in the start position (because of the bypass) and dies as soon as you let go of the key (because in the run position, current is supplied to the coil through the ballast resistor).
I haven't bought one in a while but I seem to recall that my spares were less than $20.
As an emergency fix, you can connect the two electrical leads together but doing so will shorten the life of your sparkplugs and other ignition components.
I first encountered this problem on my '77 Dodge B200 van, purchased new and well maintained. My 1970 Explorer motorhome, on a 1969 Dodge M300 chassis, also has a ballast resistor but hasn't needed a new one yet.
The bad ballast resistor kept my van from going anywhere and frustrated me because I couldn't figure out what was wrong. (I'm a fairly good mechanic with extensive knowledge of the electrical systems in older vehicles - I can draw most of the typical wiring diagrams from memory.) A friend suggested I check the ballast resistor, saving me the expense of a tow. (I bought him a case of his favorite beer in thanks.)
I've heard of enough similar experiences from other people to convince me to always carry a spare. I haven't heard of any going out while the vehicle is moving although I imagine it's possible. All of the cases I've heard of showed up while trying to start the vehicle, leading me to believe a current spike during shutdown or starting cause the ballast resistor to fail.
Hope this helps someone.
Those new platinium plugs can take a lot of juice. Have you tried a new set of Bosch's plus 4 platiniums?
TravelMaster 1986 23ft, Chevy G30 5.7 TH400 Tranny. 350M V-8 295hp and 360 ft lbs torque, Mobil One Synthetic, Tru-Cool Tranny(4490) and Engine Coolers (M7B), Bilsteins shocks on the front. Monroe 555 HDs on the rear.
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): 330 Cummins 04 Pegagus Engine, Allison 3000
Miles: 12,000
Year: 2004
Break Down Description: Lost all power on a downgrade, black smoke pouring out of exhaust. Idle OK. Pulled over to side and limped 2 miles to rest stop. Decided it was the Pacbrake and wired the air cylinder open. After this I learned that I could just turn off the Pacbrake and proceed.
Symptoms: Power loss and black smoke
Effect: Safety issue as the first time it happened in heavy Interstate traffic with almost no shoulder.
Cause: The cause is the Pacbrake, either the physical Pacbrake itself or the electronics that controls the Pacbrake or possibly the air solenoid (Pacbrake said this was unlikely).
Outcome: Intermittent problem that Cummins could not find (just tested the Pacbrake). It failed 3 more times in the next 600 miles. Then I added temporary wiring and a voltmeter to isolate to an electronic failure or the air solenoid/Pacbrake and it has not failed in the last 500 miles since adding the voltmeter. Incidentally this is not a Cummins part or warranty item. Monaco installed this part with the full cooperation and agreement of Cummins and Allison but it is a Monaco warranty item.
I also learned that the Cummins Medford, OR shop is not trained to test the Pacbrake. They failed to do a major but very easy test, namely disconnect the air cylinder and physically move the butterfly valve to check for binding. They also billed Monaco for almost 3 hours for a 15 minute test. OK, I'd give them a hour as I repeated all of their tests in under a hour at home.
* This post was edited 04/29/05 10:57am by CA Traveler *
2009 Holiday Rambler 42 Scepter with ISL 400 Cummins
2004 Honda CR-V
Bob
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): 300HP Cummins, Allison MD3060
Chassis: Spartan
Miles: 49,000
Year: 1993
Break Down Description: Allison electronic shifter control went blank and the engine would not restart after being shut off.
Symptoms: Self-shifted into neutral when going down the road then the shifter's digital display went blank
Effect: Stranded on the side of Interstate 95 in extremely heavy traffic causing $950 tow job and parts replacement that extended warranty company would NOT pay for.
Cause: The transmission Electronic Control Unit (ECU) became intermittent. It was mostly blank but would occasionally flash. The ECU is powered by dedicated positive and negative wires all the way back to the battery. Those wires were checked, batteries were changed (long shot), the ignition switch was changed (another long shot), the two fuses in the Vehicle Interface Module (VIM) were checked.
I found a place on the internet called TKT Sales and called them. The owner, Ted Keating, was extremely helpful - walking me through checks on the ECU with my voltmeter. Because battery voltage and ignition voltage were present right at the ECU but yet the ECU was blank, I ordered a used ECU from him and it fixed the problem. It cost me $900 versus the $2500 plus $500 programming fee that a local shop wanted for a new one.
If you have an Allison transmission be sure to write this info down now in case you need them beside the road somewhere like I did. His e-mail address is ted@tktsales.com or you can contact him through his website at http://tktsales.com. Tel: (267)716-7332.
And by the way, I have nothing to do with TKT Sale except being a happy customer!
Please note that if you have extended warranty coverage through Interstate StarRV, then you basically have no coverage. They say they would cover my transmission but they will not cover the ECU. They cover the wiring harness but not the ECU. Their contract is worded such that there's probably no way they'll have to pay me for anything.
I also learned something else. If you have a Class A diesel pusher and you have a chassis problem it's almost impossible to get assistance in many places throughout the country. Those RV service centers that you see everywhere will NOT be able to help you - they work on toilets and window shades, etc. And, even if you have an extended warranty, you had better keep about $5,000 or more on reserve for emergency repairs! Our last trip cost us a little over $3700 in repairs, parts, and towing expenses alone!
Cheers,
Dennis
* This post was edited 05/04/05 12:28pm by mrwebman *
'93 Gulf Stream Tourmaster
Jeep Overland toad
190 Cummins
Hard to start.
Chassis battery's runs down.
Outcome: Replace battery's (less than a year old, Interstate batterys, would not hold a charge.)
Outcome: secondary fuel filter ( the small one) is hard to get to, who ever put it on must have pinched the gasket and was leaking.
Just bought this unit
"...Chassis battery's runs down.
Outcome: Replace battery's (less than a year old, Interstate batterys, would not hold a charge.)"
Batteries less than a year old not holding a charge? That's a symptom, not a cause, even if it caused something else in turn. You'll be doing this in about a year (or less) again, unless you can isolate & correct what causes it.
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): CAT 3126 300 hp, Allison 3060
Miles: 40,000 or so
Year: 2003
Break Down Description:
Symptoms: clanging noise from right rear
Effect: MH still drove OK and brakes worked. Slowed down and drove to nearest city (Forrest City, AR). Parked at Wal-Mart (Sunday). Called Good Sam ERS, and agreed to wait until next day for assistance. They sent rep. from White Motor Co. We drove MH to White's shop.
Cause: They found bolt holding right rear disk brake assembly in place had sheared off.
Outcome: White drilled out broken bolt and installed replacement. Bolt and repair kit (shims, etc.) had to be ordered out of Memphis. That took one more day. Total cost: $363.20, plus motel.
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): 350 Cummins Diesel
Miles: 9 k
Year: 2002
Break Down Description/Symptoms:
Break down #1: Starter went out 2 weeks after purchase. The engine would not turn over at all but made a clicking noise. Had towed to Austin and repaired by Freightliner.
Break down #2: 2 months after purchase rv started sputtering while on the highway. Had the pedal pushed all the way to the floor but could not get past 30 mph. It acted like it was not getting any gas. We pulled over and turned off the RV and waited (while trying to decide what to do). We tried cranking it again and it turned over and worked like nothing happened.
Effect: Originally told it was the fuel filter was clogged.
Cause: Unknown if it had caused any other damage.
Outcome: Fuel sensor went out.
We found out the original owners of the RV had to have the fuel pump replaced while in their posession. Don't know if that would have any effect on the fuel sensor or not.
Anyone else who owns a Founders Edition experience any problems?
Spent two days on parking lot (long story) before being towed to Cummins Atlantic in Columbia. Diagnosis: loose ignition switch shorting out starter. Some mentally handicapped employee didn't see the need to tighten the switch at the dealership. Won't be returning to nor recommending them to anyone. Along with my time and anguish I spent $886 including tow. I'm asking for it to be reimbursed but not holding my breath; will keep you informed.
Well that's the story minus some details of vacationing in Ventura. So here are the particulars:
'02 CC Intrigue 40' TS, progessive auto insurance
370 ISL, Allison Trans
8400 miles (like new)
ENG WARNING AND SHUT ENGINE DOWN NOW LITES
ENGINE POWER DECLINE AND ENGINE SHUT DOWN
LOW PRESSURE SWITCH FAILED (telling eng comp that there was low oil pressure)
REPLACED $18 SWITCH WITH UPGRADED SWITCH AND WIRE HARNESS (still under warranty, thank God)
Made it home without incidents, had a great time at Disney Land
Driveline: Caterpillar C7, Allison MH3000
Miles: 8600
Year: 2004
Break Down Description: Motor stalled while in motion & would not re-start
Symptoms: Freighliner info center on the dash called out loss of communications with the engine, trans, & ABS ECUs (Electronic Control Units)
Effect: No motor, transmision, ABS, or power steering (off or not working)
Cause: Broken wire from battery to relays powering motor/trans/ABS computers
Outcome: Just after cresting the Grapevine on northbound I-5, we lost all power to the coach & came to a grinding halt at the bottom of the Frazier Park Rd exit. The Freightliner dash readout told a tale of lost communications between the various computers that run the show & gave me that sinking feeling I was in for a long evening.
After a call to a very competent Coach Net operator, she had Jims Towing of Bakersfield with an appropriate rig to tow me the 60 miles or so to Freightliners Bakersfield Truck Center. The tow truck arrived within the 30 minutes allotted by California Highway Patrol for vehicles blocking critical off-ramps.
In Bakersfield, the Freightliner mechanic zeroed in on the relays that feed the transmission/motor/ABS computers & traced the relays wire back to the chassis battery where he found a break under the insulation. He popped a new lug on it & we where on our way to Yosemite, only losing one day off our schedule.
Its a little disconcerting that all it took was a minor electrical break to effectively shut down the motor, transmission, and ABS. And although the airbrakes worked, power steering also stopped when the motor did!
Check your battery connections, it doesnt take much to completely kill your rigs systems & possibly leave you muscling it to a stop on a twisting road!
Kudos to Coach Net, Jims Towing, & Bakersfield Truck Center for minimizing the pain on this trip
TJ & Cindy, FMCA F363139
04 National RV Tropical T370
350Hp CAT-C7 3000MH
07 Honda Accord 5spd toad
NYCFive1
Sounds like a typical low-blow from the 'Gecko.' They pretend *you* failed to inform them your MH has Duals, perchance?
If you aren't comfortable telling us who pulled the rug out from under you--I hope one day you reconsider. Poor, persecuted insurance companies that suddenly wish to be relieved of the burdens of RV coverage have feelings, too. The more of us who know them, the faster they can be given what they asked-for.
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Jan & Liz
2005 FW Expedition 38N Cat 300
2005 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited
The Great Outdoors, Titusville, FL
Villas, Cape May County, NJ
Rupinski Blog
After traveling approximately 4 hours, tranny felt like it "slipped" into neutral.
Pulled over, put into park, shut down engine, and waited five minutes. Started engine, put into drive and pulled away. Drove another 350 miles with no problem.
Next morning, drive approximately 45 miles, downhill on I-77 from Va into NC, and same thing happens.
Towed to Piedmont Ford in Greensboro, NC.
Solution:
Scanner immediately gave two codes, pointing to solenoid A. After two days of testing at Piedmont Ford, they replaced the solenoid. Continued on to Orlando, and back to NY with no further problems.
2003 Ford Chassis, 4R100 tranny.
The folks at Piedmont Ford did an outstanding job, getting me in right away and diagnosing the issue. They also looked for other potential causes to rule out.
All covered under warranty, as they occured at 10,265 miles.
Good Sam tow was there in 25 minutes. Awesome job.
2004 Coachmen Aurora on a FORD V-10 Chassis
2004 Jeep Liberty
Don't take your organs to Heaven. Heaven knows we need them here! Dave has a dog named Muffy and Mike owns a Cockapoo!
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4 days later the same problem occurred outside KC, MO & after waiting 1 wk to get into Freightliner's OASIS dealer in KC they did find some loose wires in a harness. We left KC and in less than 100 miles the problem occured again!! Our coach is currently at Freightliner in Columbia, MO. where they will try to get to it by next Monday, July 18. All of this occurred in the last 30 days. We are new to this forum & are wondering if anyone else has had these type of problems? If so what was the solution? Also, can anyone suggest what we can do to get Freitliner's attetion so they will do more than tell us to have it towed to the next service center & they will look at it? Any help or suggestions are appreciated. Our coach is still under warrenty.
Driveline (440-1 / 727 tranny0Miles:
Year: 1976 with 48K
Break Down Description: Engine backfired, stumbled and eventually just died. Seemed like vapor lock and it's done this before
Effect: During hot driving or in traffic, the engine sputters then stalls. Should I give it gas during this time it will initiate HUGE backfires. Last year while doing this it blew apart the muffler.
Cause: While dead on the side of the road and believing it was vapor lock, I attempted to bleed the air from the fuel line. I noticed the coil was next to the fuel line and very hot so I moved it way. Engine would not start so I check the coil to see if I had messed something up. I noticed the wire going to the dist. was split so I replaced it (i had spare). Still not spark so I hitched a ride to get a new coil. Worked fine. BTW, I now carry a spare coil
Outcome: Haven't driven it enough yet to see if my problem persists but I'm hoping to solved a persistent problem. I'm contemplating moving the coil to an area that has much more air flow.
Sounds good. I'll do that. thanks.
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Me, The DW & Curly Sue
34' Winnibago Adventurer
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): 5.9L 230 Cummins/Allison 6Spd
Miles:82,000
Year:93
Break Down Description: (You can add any description of the problem here that you think would help others in understanding the situation and problem.)
Symptoms: Stalled on incline Effect: Wouldn't start again
Cause: Sucking air with less than 1/4 tank.
Outcome: Filled tank and used manual pump
The dealer told me never to do two things in a Diesel:
Don't go over 3200RPM....which the 6 speed Allison won't allow anyway, and never run out of fuel. After picking her up, drove 50 miles to Pasadena and noticed gauge below 1/4 tank, pulled off FWY looking for Diesel. Goin up a steep incline (Lowell Ave) the rig stalled. Unable to start I postulated and prayed that due to the incline the pump was sucking air. AAA guy brought a mere two gallons, but advised me on the re-start to look for a manual pump by the Fuel pump. Friend brought ten more gallons of fuel, and after donning my headlamp and finding the pump, and having someone turn of over the engine while I pumped like madman, the engine came back to life. This process took twenty minutes. I now realize that I could have just pumped for a while to fill the fuel filters and she would have started right up. My first diesel lesson.
* This post was edited 07/27/05 11:22am by cascabel3 *
1977 GMC Conversion 8V71 DD 3 spd Allison Jake etc
Confirm the 3200RPM with the engine mfg. That is much higher than most diesels, mine 330 Cummins is 2200RPM.
Last November 7Pm 55 miles West of Sheridan Wy on I90 going up a hil at 70MPH hear loud "Bang" with total lost of power. Immediate;ly thought "Oh &*% I've blown the tranny"" Coasted to stop. Crawled underneath with flashlight surprized to find tranny intact, but discovered last segment of drive shaft missing! Contacted Good Sam (thank goodness I had reactivated my coverage before leaving on trip) Got excellent service and was towed into Sheridan campground. Of course being Friday night knew was stuck for several days. Fortunately there was truck service shop needby. They came out and measured for new drive shaft and early Monday got us on the way. No more problems on that trip and returned home.
However, in prepareration for another long trip east this summer, took unit for complete service (belts, fluids, lube, etc) discoverd lt rear springs. shocks were falling off, entire rear axle about to come out and tag axle supports broken!@
Upgraded to 99 Safari Zanzibar with 300 cat & 6 speed allison. 8400 miles trip completed in much more comfort than with Southwind!
Paul
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): Big Chevy V-8 auto tranny
Miles: 29,000
Year: Mar 05
Break Down Description: Engine stopped running when leaving campsite to go to dumpstation
Symptoms: engine died - tried to start and would run for a few seconds and stop then would not even do that after about 5 tries
Effect: Not able to move
Cause:Fuel pump died
Outcome
ad fuel pump replaced($1100)kb
2005 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD D-Max/Allison Crew Cab Long Bed
Jordan Ultima Brake Controller
PullRite Super 5 hitch
2005 Jayco Eagle 325 BHS
You can live for many causes. You can only die for one. Choose wisely.
ISL 400
13,000 miles
Exhaust Brake solenoid failure.
Exhaust brake would not release.
Had to manually (with a wrench) break the air line to exhaust the air from the cylinder and then drive without the exhaust brake (not recomended, but I was in the middle of nowhere on I77 in WVA). The brakes heated up enough to smell pretty strongh. Cunnins shop replaced the defective part (solenoid) under Monaco warranty but I was deadlined a week waiting for it. (I now carry a spare) Note: the solenoid manufacturer is ISO certified and has few failures.
Sudden loss of throttle control
Driving down the LA freeway system pulling a toad. The accelerator pedal went to the floor and stayed, the engine went to idle and the speed decreased accordingly. Turned out to be a broken throttle cable. Opened the doghouse and wrapped a line around the carburator linkage and pulled on it to apply power. Drove about five miles to a service center who replaced the throttle cable. Glad the CHP wasn't there, they would have probably objected.
'93 Allegro Bay 28', '02 Saturn Toad.
Fulltimers
RV particulars: 2004 Winnebago 39K Journey
Driveline (Engine, Transmission)
at 7, 330hp, Allison 6-spdMiles:17500
Year
uilt 12/03, bought new 4/04Break Down Description: Suddenly Overheated, after cooling restarted, drove 1 mile overheated again. Had to be towed 40 miles to Sparks, NV.
Cause
orton Fan Hub failed. Bolts, bearings, failed and it separated from engine.Outcome: Still in Caterpillar Shop in Sparks, awaiting parts (7) coming from 5 different areas of US and Canada.
THE CATCH IS...Kenworth (through NHTSB) issued a recall for this same engine and fan hub combination in APRIL 2004! Had it been recalled by Caterpillar or Winnebago, I could have avoided this costly breakdown. BEWARE Other C-7 Cat drivers...
Golfingene and Mary Lou
'04 Winnebago Journey 39K DP
Toad: '99 Grand Cherokee w/
Blu Ox Aventa II, Brakemaster Air Brakes
RDG: On your Bounder starting a hill at 50 and ending up doing 20 or less at the top - I think you'll find my post informative.
GotTheBug: On your Batteries not holding a charge although they've been there less than a year - you too may find some good info in a moment.
ToBNamedL8r: 1100.00 for a fuel pump on a gas engine? Next time, send me a round trip ticket. I'll fix it and show you how, and you can pay me with a 12 pack of beer. It'll be cheaper and quicker, I'm sure, lol.
So on to my stories:
1st MH was a 1979 Pace Arrow on a GMC frame; 27' with a 454 under the hood. Acquired it used in 2001 from a dealer since it had roof a/c and an over the driver/passenger compartment pull down bunk, and was cheap. It was in seemingly good shape mechanically and appearance wise, so ok.
I live in Colorado Springs, we (my then wife and her son) go camping about 4 hours away a couple times, and I notice and attend to some wiring problems, and not much later she decides to visit her aunt in Buffalo NY. Get her all packed up and off we go. No real problems other than the gas gauges don't work - and we don't know exactly how much fuel we can carry, but I'm one of those crawl under/over/around/through everything people, so we get it pretty well figured out on the way there, and what documentation I can get from GMC and Fleetwood on schematics (water and gas only, no electric available) and how many/what gal tanks we have I've received. Get there (Buffalo), step up on her porch, look back to the unit, and to roof has peeled back about 2 feet. Hmmmm. Wonder if that affected gas mileage any (ya think? lol). Off to the local RV store. Buy some roofing tar, some tape, and some putty. Roll the roof back down and tape and tar the sides. Up front I putty, tape, and tar the thing. That roof isn't going anywhere now, trust me. We're there a week visiting, and I occassionally get under her and trace this wire and that one and pull the ones that the guy before added that go nowhere (our belief is he broke things on the road and temp wired them to something else because he wanted a reason to not have to listen to his own she who must be obeyed at home, and be the hero on the road when he suddenly fixed something (that he broke in the first place)). Must have pulled about a mile of wire, and even there are some stories. My favorite? Been running fine, no problems. One morning doesn't want to start. Cranks. No start. Need gas, fire, air. Check for spark, and notice a wire running from the tach side of the distributer should go the the cruise. Pull it off. Starts. Hmmm. Let's see if it acutally goes tot he cruise....Uh-uh. Not here, buddy. Runs to the fuel solenoid that switches which tank you are running on. Just isn't right, you know? YANK!! (well, unplug from here, unwind from there). Suddenly, low and behold, the gas gauge works when the selector switch is in either tank feed position. Hey. I'm a genious, he's an idiot, lol. Never did fix the cruise, by the way. What for? So I can go to sleep driving? Nope.
So it's late and we're on the way back in Nebraska, wife and son asleep, about 2 a.m. and we've been tag team driving. About a mile from a rest area I'm rounding a right hand corner on I-70 and BANG!!! (Ever notice that every time something in a motor home goes wrong, it's always accompanied by a loud BANG!! and dust suddenly in the air???) I holler an expletive and I'm suddenly trying to hold onto the wheel and she dives to the left and crosses into the left lane and heads for the median. The BANG!! and sudden lurching wake up the wife, she grabs her son and braces for impact. It's a wide median, and down I go, trying to keep from flying into the oncoming lane, fishtailing, and ended up with all the drawers open, stuff everywhere, and not spinning or rolling the RV. Whew. We clean her up, do a walk around, and find nothing. Wife says I fell asleep, I tell her, well never mind what I told her. Ended with fine, you drive to the rest stop. She does get her to the rest area and we spend the night. Another walk around in the morning. Still can't figure it out, but it is pulling to the left while driving once in a while. All the linkage looks good and we get home safely though, just have to fight the wheel a little.
So I check all the tire pressures, they are good, and I check the air bags which are front only. I put in air, I hear it coming right back out. Hmmmm. I climb under and the although it was hard to see until I was under there, the air line for the bag had come off the fitting. There's my bang!! and the reason for the subsequent behavior. Falling asleep at the wheel, my ***. This was a violent jerk for those of you who haven't experienced it. At 65 mph, this is not something that you want to experience. I couldn't keep her on the road if I didn't to roll her. Had to go into the median and make a semi controlled skid in the direction I needed to keep her headed in mud and wet grass to get her under control and stopped. No way to match the right hand corner when she pulled left.
Always keep two hands on the wheel.
We make 2 more 4 hours trips in her, I've fixed the wiring on about 20 more things now, and she's pretty solid (the rv). So I'm headed to Lake Havasu for a biker rally towing my 2003 Indian Chief. Just as I'm leaving town on the freeway, I get a BANG!!! and dust fills the cockpit. Left driver side rear outer tire is flat. So I drive her about 2 miles to the next exit, turn her around and head for the truck stop. They can't change it, but keep promising they can for 4 hours. I go down the street, he has the tire and gets it done in 20 minutes. I pay for it as he sits down and puts the lugnuts on. Something really tore that tire up, sure didn't see anything.....fade to about oh, 45 miles later. I'm hearing a definite rub and smelling burning rubber every time I am in a left hand corner. But not in the right hand turns. Ok. Off the freeway we go, into Pueblo, CO. Find the closest place out of the way and pull in. Start looking and each tire. Hey look. If I sit down my the tire that was just changed, I can see what's left of the tail pipe wedged in above it. Now why didn't the guy changing the tire see that? Must not have looked up, huh? SO I get out the jack to take some pressure off the thing and find me the biggest guy I can find. WE start moving it around and finally manage to push it completely through the hole it had made into the interior of the RV through the wheel well. I store it, give the guy 1o bucks which he won't take, duct tape the wheel well inside and off I go....fade to about 12 miles north of Las Vegas, NM on I-25.
You guessed it. BANG!!! Engine is running fine and the throttle responds, but she's steady slowing down. I pull to the side and pull the doghouse. Linkage looks fine, it's working. Shut her off, restart and move the lever. I'm going nowhere fast.
Ok. Shut her off. No signal on the cell phone but ***NOTE*** I know that dialing 911 will connect with whatever carrier has a sattelite in the area. That's a federal law to deal with emergency situations where your carrier doesn't have a signal.****
I call 911. New Mex Hwy Patrol gets a tow truck headed my way, and the guy knows I'm towing a bike and I'm a 27 foot class A to begin with.
Tows me into Las Vegas to the Diesel mechanic's shop (These guys are awesome - I recommend them highly!!!). I stay in the rv, and I'm in the garage in the morning. They know the problem in 20 minutes. Now I've been dealing with what seems like dieselling in this engine for about 2 years when I hsut it off. Not all the time, but when it acts like that, just hold the accelerator down, and she'll finally die. These guys in 20 minutes determine that the last bolt hold the flywheel to the torque converter has sheared. AHA!!! And they will go to the local salvage yard to look for the converter and the flywheel for me to save me 2 days waiting for Albuquerque to drive the stuff up there. 900.00 and about 6 hours later, I'm on the road.
Great rally, let's get back. Going uphill, I'm suddenly only able to maintain about 5 mph. Once on the level I can do 65. Ok. I pull over on a hill and leave her idling on the rear tank. A little 10-100 and back to the driver's seat. Put her in drive, hit the gas and she starts dying. Flip the tank switch to the main (which is full and has no pump - the electric pump is on the rear tank which just went dry), and not enough vacumn to pull the gas into the engine. I'm contemplating how I'm going to do this since I can't get to the tank gas line connection, and finally pull over a guy in a pickup, hoping he he has some gas or a siphon hose. I explain the problem. He says, don't you have gas in the bike? I slapped myself in the forehead so hard I shoulda had that V8 and we both start laughing. I'm on the road 20 minutes later, but still can't get her going any faster uphill, whereas on the trip to Havasu everything was fine.
Get home, and walk into a divorce, I get the bike and that motorhome, she gets the house and the 92 Pace Arrow. Ok, I take it to get emissions for the new title, she's running ragges. Turns out 4 of the 8 cylinders weren't firing. 4 plug wires had gone bad. What the heck??? First time for everything. Replaced wires, rotor and plugs. Plenty of power now. And she passed.
Lived in her in a RV park for 8 months. Traded her in for a 2000 Pace Arrow Vision 36' with 2 slides, a real bed and washer/dryer. Been living in her since then, and still in the same RV park. I'll finsih in my next post.
* This post was edited 08/09/05 12:08am by Lyman *
2000 Pace Arrow Vision, 36B, 2 slides, Ford V10
2006 Audi A4 3.0L Quattro Cabriolet
2003 Indian Chief
Patriot Guard Rider
Iron Indian Rider
Indian Riders Group
American Legion
USAF, Retired
Winter, I don't even think about draining the ice maker connection, and pop goes the weasel. Come home from work, water and ice outside the unit. I find the problem and turn it off, but have multiple problems inside. Heat works but blows the circuit breaker. Lights don't want to work. Finally locate the house batteries (under the steps) and they aren't getting a charge, even with the generator or solar panel. Check every fuse in the RV and out on the pole. Have to replace a few (HEY PEOPLE!!! BE SMART!!! KNOW WHERE ALL YOUR FUSE BOXES ARE LOCATED. You can check that it isn't that before you call someone who charges 65.00 just to show up and replace a fuse) fuses. Still, no charge. OK. I know it's the inverter. Call the mobile maintenance guy, and 600.00 later I have a new inverter and climate control unit (all under the fridge - guess where the water was leaking to inside?). Common problem with Fleetwoods - Turn off that water and blow that blue valve out every winter, folks). Batteries work fine now, although I did have to add distilled water to every cell. NOTE TO SELF: Check water level once a year and unplug and run batteries almost down to nothing before plugging back in.
I do have some stories from people that have limped into the park, I see about 90 rv'ers a day from all over. But I'll get to some of those later.
* This post was edited 08/09/05 12:13am by Lyman *
2002 Newmar Dutch Star Cummins Diesel on a Spartan chassy. Has a decent 4wd toad. Driving through Colorado, someone tells him to pull over. His connector to the toad has come loose and is dragging on the ground. Ripped it up good and the connector end is gone and the wires are damaged from dragging the ground. No diodes, the dealer ran wires from the front of the toad to the back and put in extra light bulbs, so he replaced the cord and all is good there. (For those of you with toads where you have diodes in the lines from certain dealer installs -- if you are connected to the RV and turn on the headlights (and some other systems) in the toad, you create a feedback loop. Burns out the diodes and will do very weird things to your RV electrics. Make sure you unhook that connector before doing anything involving electricity with the toad or no lights on the toad and some very weird issues that could end up being Electronic Control Module related).
Anyway, he's back on the road. About 40 miles from here, his gauges suddenly go bonkers. All read wrong. He pulls in here (Fountain Creek RV Park in Colorado Springs) and calls a mobile maintenance man (who we that live here have never seen before - he'd just dropped a business card in the office - the normal guy we see is really good and does have all the testers. But being a biker couldn't be reached and is probably at Sturgis for the big bike rally). Anyway, no ODBC tester; he just starts checking some mains and fuses and relays. A couple relays he replaces. After 2 hours, no fix, but gives up. Charges 90.00. His neighbor and I have no ODBC tester either, but we are both pretty good with electrics (prior military jobs and I work for HP) and know from watching the maintenance guy that he didn't bother to check all the fuses. So the search is on. Guy doesn't know where his dash fuse box is. Look everywhere and can't find it - inside and out. Ask him about the cover on the top of the dash, he says the dealer told him it's an airbag under there (hey, they're making advances all the time, who knew?). We exhaust every possibility; turn off the battery disconnect, wait 2 minutes and reset. Same problem. Unhook toad, same problem. Check every fuse and circuit breaker we can find with a ohmmeter, mainly checking for continuity; find a cuple bad and replace them, same problem. Finally he pulls that cover on the top of the dash. Lo and behold!!! Fuse board. Every fuse is good, all the relays check out, but can't get the ignition (F9) relay to budge. Likely burned inside and fried itself to the contacts. Not going to break the circuit board (I work computers - doesn't pay to ruin circuit boards for nothing) by prying it up with a screwdriver; suspect that's what caused his other 2 relays which deal with the ignition to go bad. For the record, all gauges point straight up (although sitting still, for instance, the speedo reads 40 mph and he has 1/2 tank of gas when he knows he has under 1/4). Sure, pull a couple relays (I don't recommend this, the maintenance man did it and I just shook my head- good way to fry other systems; got the feeling the so-called maintenance guy didn't know squat; but I'm not going to interfere - some of those guys get pretty upset when you do and the Dutch Star owner was paying for this and didn't want to upset him either) while the engine is running and either nothing on the dash, just red lights everywhere, or the gauges are working, or going crazy. That's how he came to replace 2 relays under the hood maintenance man figured they were fried so replaced them and said that's all I can do, got paid, and left. Twit. Quit for the night, this guy's had a hard day and at least he had SOMETHING to check on. Went online and printed out his recalls from NHTSA (3 - one for fumes, 2 for brake systems) and the Newmarcorp.com recommended service centers, one of which is 8 miles from here. And point him to a decent restaurant so he and the wife can eat.
After dinner, we sit down and have a beer, and then off to bed (after all, I have to work in the morning and he has some calls and decisions to make).
In the morning, he calls Fleetwood (authorized Newmar service center here) and they can't get to him until Thursday. He calls Spartan. Their service center is closer and can get him in tomorrow, and while after an hour they agree it may be the relay, they want to make sure (and if they break the board, they have to pay for it). Then he buys us each a 6-pack for our trouble. We (his neighbor, who I ride motorcycles with) say thanks, 'twerent nothing and we'd do it for anyone. So his neighbor and I invite them to dinner and a local (awesome) German restaurant and pick up the bill, letting him take the tip. He balks, but we remind him we've both been places where stuff goes wrong and all of a sudden something happens and money starts going up in smoke (my trip to Havasu, his neighbor's trips to bike rallys in a class A towing the bikes where he had to pay for an engine one trip, a tranny another, and on the last an air conditioner). He acquiesces at that point, we come home, give him directions on how to get to the maintenance center Spartan told him about, and we all sit down and have a couple beers and about an hour worth of really good conversation. Nice evening. We'll see what happens at the maintenance garage, and I'll keep you posted.
Oh, and by the way. I did relay a couple of the experiences people on here have posted (took 5 hours to read through 38 pages, but I enjoyed it), but not all. Didn't want to turn the guy and his wife into people just waiting for the other shoe to drop. He has Michelins. Does check his pressure before moving that thing. Knows now to get and keep spare fuses and maybe some other parts. Laughed that I immediately thought of Utahans when I read She Who Must be Obeyed. Laughed about the wife towing the RV with the 4wd when you have coverage to get towed (laughing with you folks, not at you - it's all a learning experience). Knows he can (did you know?) talk to Newmar and Spartan and Cummings and order manuals (parts, service, and user) and schematics, although he may have to pay for them. The manual with the RV is good for some things, but has no real schematics (doesn't even say where the fuse boxes are),and he knows a darn sight more now about his rv than he did (like dealers may not know what they are talking about when it comes to air bags in an rv), talking to us and a couple other neighbors (one of which has of all things a 2003 Dutch Star who just happened to pull in 3 days ago for a week stay). I know the service center he's going to will have the right ODBC unit (after reading these posts and living in a park, I'm going to buy the whole kit(odbc1, 2, and the foreign one complete with code manuals for all makes and models 1983 through 2007) for 299.00 off of a website I found. Would have loved to have been able to isolate the exact cause for him, and I've used those items before, just never bought one.
I'll keep you posted on the results of his problem.
And just in case...anyone know how to turn off that annoying air pressure alarm they have on those Dutch Stars? Until there's enough pressure, the thing goes off after the engine is started. Dang that's annoying. Also, if he hits a hard enough bump on the road, one of his jacks will evidently drop an inch or less, but enough to activate the jacks down light and alarm. Scares the bejesus out of him and the wife. He stops immediately every time and verifies the jack is indeed up, but that alarm......he'd love a way around that. I advised he ask the maintenance shop tomorrow, but thought some of you would have an idea as well. Seem like a pretty smart group of people here, and I've certainly gained a lot of information from you as well.
As a final note for now, he and the wife are dropping off the rv in the morning, taking the cog railway to the top of Pike's Peak around 1 p.m., and spelunking in Cave of the Winds tomorrow. Always make the best you can of what seems like a bad situation and learn to laugh. At yourself, and at what others have gone through. Commiserate with them too, as we did with all of you. Sure makes life in an rv more bearable. For instance; the guy and his wife who got pulled over by a new highway patrolman in Arizona for not wearing seat belts. Class A, older one, say late 70's early 80's. Those didn't have shoulder belts, just lap belts (which they did have on but the cop could only see that no shoulder belts were being worn and presumed....). Had to invite him inside and show him there weren't any holes for them so they hadn't removed them, they were just not installed back then. At least the cop got an education and a cup of hot coffee and a sandwich out of the deal. He won't be pulling over any more Class A drivers for that, although he's likely learned also that the newer units do have shoulder belts. They are friends of mine and we all laughed our rear ends off over that one. As I expect you are right now.....lol. And as you are online, check your vehicle's recalls using NHTSA.com. Especially as if in this case, you've bought it used and aren't registered with your parent company - they don't know how to tell you there may be a problem with your unit if they can't find you. He's going to have those recalls checked tomorrow too.
Keep 'em coming!
Mark & Cherie (& Chloe)
2002 Newmar Dutch Star DP 3872, Cummins 350 ISC, Spartan Chassis
2003 Ford Explorer, Blue Ox Aventa Tow Bar w/ Ready Brake & Ready Stop
We had our brakes worked on (new calipers and abs sensors) twice before the recall. After the recall work, we drove it about 50 miles and the brakes were smoking again. Took it back to the dealer and again, they replaced the calipers and abs sensors. Left on a trip, got about 350 miles and the abs light came on, then I lost ALL brakes. Managed to get it to a campground, then called Workhorse the next morning (2001 W22 chassis). They agreed to tow it for repair, even though it was out of warranty (actually, they have covered all the work so far even though it's now 1.5 years out of warranty) to a different service center after we finished our vacation. It's been there 2 weeks and they checked everything and told me they would replace everything, if necessary. So far, they have replaced the rear calipers, the bad master cylinder, 4 brake hoses (3 tested bad so they replaced all) and the caliper guide pins.
Tomorrow (well, actually today..08/17) will be the test. The VP of Workhorse is picking it up and driving it back to us and will test the brakes, determine if it's porpoising, etc. We shall see!!
Larry
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): Chevrolet 454, 4L80E
Miles: ~28000
Year: 1997
Break Down Description: I was getting ready to hit the road, and I stopped by my nearby grocery store to get some provisions. After storing my purchases the coach wouldn't start, just heard click-click-click from the starter.
- Tried auxiliary start: no improvement
- Tried auxiliary start with generator running: nothing
- Tried manually jumping the coach and chassis batteries, no dice.
- Tried jumping the chassis battery from my dinghy.
- Thoroughly cleaned connections and battery posts: nothing.
Now I'm beginning to suspect a failure with the starter. Went to Auto Zone and bought a new starter, and installed it myself. Exact same symptoms: just clicks when I turn the key.
I called by brother-in-law who knows a lot more than me. It turns out there was some corrosion and buildup between the copper battery cable and the circular connectoids on the end.
We removed the positive battery cable that runs from the battery to the starter, and we took it to an auto parts store. The auto parts store removed the old connectoids, and crimped on new ones. Unit cranks fine now.
We purchased additional eye connections which we installed on the negative cables on-site.
I'm lucky this occured just a few miles from the house, my dinghy was available, and I had a strong cell phone signal. Had this happened in the middle of nowhere I'm sure I would have been on the hook for an enormous towing bill.
I find it odd that I had the problem with such a young, low mileage unit. I'm sure if I would USE the darn thing more the corrosion wouldn't have had a chance to build up.
It turns out the original starter wasn't bad, but I keep it on-board in case of a future starter failure. The starter is very easy to change on this unit.
After this debacle I also cleaned the connections where the negative battery cables connect to the chassis.
Also, I've purchased spare a battery cable which I keep inside the MH so, if the alternator fails, I can wire the house and chassis batteries together, rather than having to jury-rig the auxiliary start switch.
* This post was edited 08/22/05 01:43am by rickbpdq *
RV particulars: Winnebago Brave 34D
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): Workhorse
Miles: approx. 10,000
Year: 2004
Break Down Description: Reduced Engine Power
Symptoms: See above
Effect: See above
Cause: Wire under the dash came loose
Outcome: Engine power went down to almost nothing while going uphill. The LED readout on the dash stated "Reduced Engine Power" so I said No S**t, now tell me WHY. The "Check Engine" light came on at the same time. I pulled over and called Workhorse Emergency Road Service. The sent a tow truck and hauled me back to Calgary. Diagnostic showed a wire under the dash came loose. The computer didn't know how much power I was applying so it reduced the power. I got the service guy to show me where the wire was. Away I went. Two days later, while driving through Wyoming, going uphill, I lost engine power AGAIN. Same readout on the LED. This time, while pulled to the side of the highway, I risked my driver's door and my A**, half crawled under the dash and made sure the wire was connected. Gave it 15 minutes and it started with full engine power. The "check engine" light was on but I continued truckin. The next morning, when I started it, I had full engine power and no fault light. I will be having a discussion with Workhorse. This is the second wire that's "come loose" under the dash. Last time was a few months ago. I pulled into a campground and couldn't put my jacks down or my slides out. I still have the problem of my entire dash going out for no reason while I'm driving. I had the cluster software upgrade installed. Guess that didn't help.
Single rv'er? Check out MSN Groups Open Roads Singles
Donna & The Girls
Bella, Chisai & Keiki (cats)
2004 Winnebago Brave 34D
2003 Pontiac Sunfire
Check that the wire bundle(s) under the dash all have enough slack so that normal things like temperature changes, road vibration, or movement caused by the 'tilt' feature of the steering column don't cause strain on the wiring bundles, which over time could cause wires to pull loose from their connections.
Check the oil? What does it look like? Pull the plugs too. What do they look like?
You probably now have coolant in the oil so do not drive it. You don't want to wash the bearings and have it sieze up on you.
74 was about due for a rebuld anyway.
1994 Vectra DP
230 Cummins / MD3060 Allison Trans
Banks Stinger / Improved Injectors
US Gear Exhaust Brake
Towing 1989 Ranger / Unified Tow Brake
I just open a new Word doc from the "Start" menu. Then I go back to the window where I have the Open Roads Forum up. Using the mouse I highlight the text of a post only (takes a little practice but it's worth it). When I have it highlighted I "right-click" on it and select "Copy" from the drop-down menu. Then I go to that new Word document and left-click on the little 'clipboard' icon at the top. Hope that works for you.
Engine coughing and bogging down going up hill.
They found locked caliper on left rear, 3 others damaged beyond repair, cystaliized pads, replaced master cylinder and rear rotors and refinished front rotors. Total was $3500.00, partially covered by Good Sam CSP.
This is a 99 Damon Daybreak bought used in April with 40,000 miles. Prior owner was a snowbird who left it outside in Wisconsin, damage due to neglect. Dealer had assured me that unit was well maintained, but was sold as-is. My fault for trusting. If I buy again, it will be a certified Good Sam unit. Thirty years in various RVs and still learning.
jim
Filled up with gas in Wildwood, Fl on trip to Thomasville, GA from Frostproof, Fl. Drove to first traffic light and stepped on brake which went to floor. Local chevy dealer had serviced my cars for 2 years when I lived in area so they agreed to work on it.
They found locked caliper on left rear, 3 others damaged beyond repair, cystaliized pads, replaced master cylinder and rear rotors and refinished front rotors. Total was $3500.00, partially covered by Good Sam CSP.
This is a 99 Damon Daybreak bought used in April with 40,000 miles. Prior owner was a snowbird who left it outside in Wisconsin, damage due to neglect. Dealer had assured me that unit was well maintained, but was sold as-is. My fault for trusting. If I buy again, it will be a certified Good Sam unit. Thirty years in various RVs and still learning.
What engine/chassis set up do you have on that rig?
Driveline (Engine, Transmission):Ford V10 Thor WindSport
Miles:8,400
Year:2005
Break Down Description: Engine would not turn over. No clicking from starter senolid.
Effect: Engine would not start
Cause: Starter relay - front of engine on frame.
Outcome: I had a volt meter and found that 12 volts was not passing through relay when inginition switch was turned to start position. Jumped relay to start went to Ford dealership where the replaced relay in about and hour. No charge.
Treecounter
Driveline 454, carb, th400
Miles:62,000
Year:1989
Break Down Description: Lost power after driving 2 or more hours
Symptoms Engine popping through exhaust and carb
Effect had to camp on side of road
Cause: This problem had several causes drove me crazy. During test drive we noticed engine popping under a load at 60 mph. Previous owner had new wires and plugs and cap and rotor put on, next test drive good so we bought it. Several short trips it started acting up again. Pulled the engine cover to have a look a round. Mechanic didn't bother to route the wires the way he should have several laying on manifolds and they didn't fit in the heat shields properly, they kept falling off on short trips. So replaced with NAPA truck wire with ceramic boots routed correctly. Test drive good. Went on longer camping trip started pulling hills started popping sounded like running out of gas. Had partner pure gas down carb as I tried to keep it running to get to a spot we could get off the road(we were at elev 6700 ft). Next day added in line fuel pump cause I figured tank one was bad and kept on camping. On way home after several mountains started acting up again only we were able to go 15 mph up hill and it got hot. On flat land ran good. Got home dropped the gas tank and looked inside. Looked like a big rusty cow pie right under the pickup. Took to radiator shop and had cleaned and coated for 150.00 tested the fuel pump, it was dead, so bought a new one and put it back together. Also had radiator recored while it was down. Just got back from 4600 mile trip had no problems!
Outcome clean fuel tank and replace in-tank pump. road test good
Excellent. I am not a first time buyer but I sure found it informative. How can I cut and paste to word program to pass to some friends?
Roadster20, I have copied your message by highlighting it and then pasting above. To copy and paste to a Word program, an e-mail or something else, just hi-lite what you want to copy by holding down the left button on your mouse and drag across whatever you wish to copy. Once you have it hi-lited, right click on it and a flag will pop-up...click on "copy". Now open whatever you want to copy it to and left click on the document. Now, right click and again you will get a pop-up..click on "paste".
Now you just proceed with completing your document and send or file, etc.
Oh yes, if you want to copy and paste the "complete" document to send, etc; just right click on the document (you don't have to hi-lite) and when the pop-up appears, click on the "select all". Now just as above, paste it to your document for sending.
Just do it a few times and you will find it is very simple.
454 Chevy with carb
Went to pick up my first motorhome in Georgia last Wednesday.I bought it from EBay,and the agreement was the guy was going to have the oil and filters in the engine and tranny replaced,the MH greased,oil in rear checked,brakes checked,etc,etc,etc in order for it to be ready for the 600+ mile trip home,and I would pay him when I got there. When I get there and asked him about it,he tells me he didn't have time,"but everything is ok". I get in it to check it out,and the first thing I spot is the brake light in the center of the dash shining at me. Brakes feel spongly but stop it ok,so I figured they just needed to be bled. I was wrong. I discovered this going into a town called Wren,Georgia when I was barely able to stop at the red light. They had worked fine for the 100 miles,and the light had even gone out.
Here is where the adventure begins. As I am stopped at the red light,I see a Goodyear tire store across the intersection. I was under the impression they do brake work,so I pulled off over there to get them to fix the brakes. I was told,"We don't work on stuff like that. We only work on cars and trucks. You need to take it to the diesel truck repair shop about 200 yards behind us." No matter how many times I told them that brakes were brakes and that it had the same brakes as a Chevrolet big truck,they just wouldn't listen. I go back out to drive over to the diesel truck shop,and my MH won't start. Battery is weak from bad wiring. Go back inside the Goodyear tire store and ask for a jumpstart,and they refuse. "We don't work on stuff like that". They tell me to walk to the diesel shop for a jump,even after I explain to them that I am handicapped and have trouble walking. The guy just shrugged and walked away.
I walk to the diesel shop,and the guy there tells me,"We don't work on stuff like that. We only work on diesel trucks." He agress that "brakes are brakes",but says he doesn't care because he still won't work on it,"and even if I did agree to work on it,it would be the middle of next week before I could even get started." He was nice enough to take his pu and give me a ride back to the MH and jump start it for free. He also told me my best bet was to drive it to Augusta,Georgia because that was the closest place to get it fixed. He said,"It's only about 30 miles."
I head out of town and spot the Chevy dealer. I thought I really had it made then,but was wrong once again. The service manager told me,"We don't work on stuff that big,and don't even know HOW to get parts for it!" I reminded her that it was a Chevrolet,and that Chevrolet had plenty of parts at the same phone number she called to order parts for other Chevies,and then she told me,"We don't even have the books to order parts for 1-ton Chevy trucks because we never sell anything any bigger than a 2500." I aked her,"You mean if I lived in Wren and came in wanting to buy a new 1-ton Chevy pu that you would refuse to sell it to me?",and she said,"Yeah.". Amazing!
I stopped at the NAPA store on the way out of Wren and bought a 1,000 CCA jumper battery pack for $85 so that I will be able to start the motorhome again if I have to cut it off for any reason. No big deal,since I consider these things a essential option for a motorhome that runs off batteries. It's just a good thing to have. I just wish I had been able to get to a discount store and bought one of the $35 ones.
The 4-lane road was practically empty,and since Augusta was the next town I came to,it wasn't that bad driving there because I went slow. Stopped at the first motel I found and got a room because it was after 5 PM by this time,and everybody was closed. Got up the next morning and called around maybe 8 or 9 places before I found anybody who would agree to work on it before the following week. Some just refused,including the Chevy dealer who also sold motor homes. He said they only do house work,not mechanical repairs. Can you believe that crap?
Anyhow,I found a garage in a northern suburb of Augusta who told me,"If you get it here today I will start to work on it today.",so I called the Good Sam Travel Help 800 number for a tow. This was at about 9:30 AM Thursday morning. I told them I had found a guy in north Augusta who would work on it today and that I wanted it towed there. They told me they only tow to the closest repair facility,and that any tow beyond that point was up to me. It ended up that they had me towed to this guys shop anyhow because nobody under contract to the Good Sam Club was willing to tow it that morning because it was raining and they said they were all too busy. Good Sam ended up calling the guy who said he would work on it (I had given them his name and number) to see if he knew anybody who would tow it,and he gave them the number of a guy close by who agreed to do it. This meant that he was the closest repair facility to the tow company. I found this out at 11:30 AM when I called Good Sam back and asked them where the tow truck was. Even then,this guy didn't show up until around 1 PM,and he was so stupid it took him a hour and a half to figure out that if he didn't have the right size wrench he couldn't take the drive shaft off. He kept trying different 13mm,1/2,and 5/8ths wrenches when he needed and didn't have a 9/16th wrench. He would get out from under my MH,go to his truck,and get a different 13mm or other wrench and climb under it again,to once again be amazed that it didn't fit any better than the other 13mm wrench he had been trying.
He finally gets me hooked up with the driveshaft still in it and the motor running in neutral,and gets me to the repair shop at about 3PM or so. Too late to work on it Thursday,but at least they get to look at it,figure out what it needed,and order the parts so they could work on it Friday. These are nice people,and they even give me a ride to a motel and then picked me up the next day when my MH was ready. They had it ready for me Friday afternoon,and I get out of Augusta at about 5:30 PM. They did good work and they did what they said they would do. I can't recommend them too highly. I get no money or anything else from recommending them. I am just putting this out here in case any of you who travel through Augusta ever need any repairs. You know that this guy won't jerk you around,do inferior work,or rip you off doing unneccessary repairs.
Quality Car Center
4293 Triangle Industrial Drive
706-651-8631
The next 500 miles went smoothly,and the MH is sitting out in my yard right now while I try to figure out what is wrong with the wiring.
* This post was edited 10/14/05 06:01pm by BabyBear *
Note: Due to invalid formatting, all formatting has been ignored.
* This post was last edited 10/15/05 09:27am by ygohome *
This has nothing to do with it being a Fleetwood and everything to do with it being 21 years old and having been sitting for the last year or so. Master cylinders will go out on any of them.
Driveline Cummins 8.3, Allison 6 speed
Miles: 42,000
Year: 1997
Break down Description: I stopped at a traffic light and noticed the high rpm at about 1100.
Symptoms: After shifting to neutral I could not shift to forward because of the high rpms.
Effect: Towed to a nearby Target parking lot, got the ok to park there from the store manager until Monday (it was Sunday late in the afternoon) to have it towed to an Allison service center. After a while and trying to look up the error message on the shift key pad, I hit the power button on the cruise control and the rpms dropped to idle range. I drove the rest of the way home and had to turn the cruise on and off every time I slowed or stopped at traffic light.
Cause: The ECO Cruise malfunctioned and intermittently would set the rpms to 1100.
The company is out of business so I am in the process of replacing it with a new one from Cruise King.
Driveline Cummins 8.3, Allison 6 speed
Miles: 42,000
Year: 1997
Break down Description: Big Foot levelers acting erratic.
Symptoms: RR leveler would run on after it was retracted. LF and LR would continue to extend after I would stop extending on the control panel.
Effect: I manually tripped the 120 amp circuit breaker in the battery compartment and parked as level as I could for the last part of the trip.
Cause: Solenoids sticking on.
Remedy: I made a call to Quadra Manufacturing for some info and the tech was very helpful. He suggested I change the solenoids on the three levelers that were malfunctioning. I couldnt find the exact replacement solenoids. I eventually found an after market solenoid from Stens. The terminals were 90 degrees offset from the original part, so I had to drill a new hole and resize the buss bar that connects the two solenoids on each leveler. It took about an hour for the first one and half that for the next two. Its good to level again.
Driveline Cummins , Allison 6 speed
Miles: 34,000
Year: 1997
Break down Description: Coolant leak.
Symptoms: None - Green coolant all over everything
Effect: Stranded until fixed
Cause: Plastic sight glass in reciever tank blown out
Remedy: Installed plug in hole
On first trip, decided to stop at roadside vegetable market on way to Cape Hatteras NC. After stopping and as I was doing a walkaround check, found coolant all over toad and engine compartment. Found the "PLASTIC" sight glass on the coolant reciever tank was blown out. After much searching of auto parts and hardware stores within 20 miles was able to get a tap large enough and a brass pipe plug and tap out and plug the hole. The site glass is threaded in but is a bastard thread and could not find anything that would fit it. Now I must take the cap off and stick my finger in to check coolant level BEFORE engine gets hot, or wait till it cools down as the reciever tank is mounted too high to see into.
Rick & Gail Davidson
1997 MADP
1996 Jeep GC Toad
Our leveling jacks have recently developed a mind of their own. Sometimes they work, sometimes not. I have discovered that going through the gears (on the touchpad) I can eventually get them to extend or retract. Seems their is something NOT connecting in the neutral switch. Does anybody have any info on this kind of failure?
Ray in Oklahoma
Life is not measured by the number of breaths we take, but by the number of breathtaking moments we have.
After sitting for about 90 minutes, the engine started and we completed the climb over the pass and down into the valley. Following morning I had a shop replace the fuel filter and check the engine codes with only a voltage drop being indicated. Fuel filter did not appear to be plugged. Engine has run fine every since, including pulling some good passes while pulling our Toad.
Particulars: 2000 Workhorse P32 chassis,
7.4 L Vortec gas engine,
32,000 miles,
lightly loaded, ie: fuel, water, holding tanks 1/2 full.
Fuel pump in fuel tank... sure seemed to be vaporlock but this is not supposed to occur with pressurized fuel lines.
add this to your stats wherever it might fit.
2006 38' Monaco Camelot PDQ
2006 Honda Accord (4 down)
Roadmaster Falcon tow bar
Lowrance iWay 500C
Lifetime Good Sam
FMCA F125604
This is a very enlightening thread.
No official tally of problems has been done yet, but from memory, there seemed to be a higher percentage of rigs running good up until shutdown for a short period of time (at rest stop or refueling)and then not restarting. Seemed odd to me.
Any explanations for this?
Don
hotjag1
2003 40' Allegro Bus, 3 slides, 400hp 8.9 liter Cummins
Sounds electrical. Don't know what to say about the windshield apart from ensuring it's sealed to avoid water damage. How's it going with the dealer/mfg?
We bought our Coachman and after a very short time, (after being on the road long enough for it to warm up) when we would slow down, it would try to die. I would change the fuel filter and then it would run okay.(by then it would have cooled down). I stoped at a stop sign on a busy sunday in St. Louis and had to be towed. I did not know where to get help without spending a lot of money at a dealer. I found out from other RV campers that I was having fuel pump problems. I changed the fuel pump myself and that fixed the problem.
Hope this might help someone else that is having this problem and thanks to the ones that put me on to the fuel pump problem.
Hi Ray, this type of problem usually is a LOW VOLprogessive auto insuranceE problem. This in turn is often cause by a POOR Ground. Best bet is the clean the ground on the pump. Also check 12V conections. Use "corrosion block" liquid to keep the current flowing.. Jack
Life's a Trip!
Greyhead & a cute Brunette
07 Safari Cheetah 36PPD
02 red VW Jetta TDI toad
FMCA F226315,
Ontario OverLanders
Michigan Knights
Skype "merrieyacht'
Then the gagues all stopped working, another thing that they knew could happen and didn't fix it before they sold it to me.
Then the pitman arm wore a hole in a front air bag and I fit the pavement on the front end. An other call back that they knew of before selling the rig.
A lot of small things and then the big trip back to the factory up in Indiana and a list of about 10 things had to be fixed, one actually got done, the called me and said it was ready, I drove two days to get ther and they sais the problems were all fixed, I ask about each one, they didn't know about any of the problems on the list, they fixed the TV antenna that had just been replaced.
The big one was last summer, we saw a notice of a call back on NorCold fridges, we called and they assured us ours was not on the recall list. So on the way fron Ga. to Me. we got in a camp ground in upstate NY and at 2:30 in the morning my wife woke up caughing. We discovered there was a lot of smoke inside seeming like it was coming out of the convection oven but was really the fridge on fire. I held it down with the fire extingusher from outside but if we had not gotton out when we did another minute or so we wouldn't have had time.
NorCold came good for the fridge buy we had a mess of smoke damage and wes set back three weeks before we got under way again.
Lets just say I wont be going to any Golf Stream Rally soon.
99 georgieboy 36ft.crusiemaster,275 cummings 6sp,99 dakota pickup tow.
A brand new newbie,
Randy
Full timing since June 2013
Randy and Annie
2005 Tiffin Zephyr
Cummins ISM
Spartan K2
2009 Wrangler unlimited Rubicon towed
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): Work Horse 8.1, Allison
Miles:28,000
Year: 2003
Break Down Description:
Ran over a several pieces of a tire in the highway from some vehicle, presumably a truck.
Symptoms:
none at all just decided to pull over and check the tires.
Effect: a gash on the inside rear
Cause: tire remnants in highway
Outcome:
Had to replace the tire. If I had not stopped and checked it out I would be paying for a lot more than just the tire and change.
BobR
YosemiteBobR (Bob) GoodSam Club Life Member
Keystone Cougar 311 - TV is 2013 Dodge Ram 2500 HD, with 6.7 Diesel
24' Sea Ray bow rider,
Two Labordoddles one white one brown
My DW the co-pilot/navigator
GROWING OLDER IS MANDATORY, GROWING UP IS OPTIONAL
Driveline (Engine, Transmission):
Work Horse 8.1, Allison
Miles:
12,000
Year:
2003
Break Down Description:
Stopped for lunch, took 3 tries to start. Next stop at campground, took 3 tries to start.
Symptoms:
Took at least three, five second tries to start. Ran great after starting
Effect:
None
Cause:
Plugged Fuel Filter causing low fuel pressure at start. Took 3 tries to build enough pressure to start engine.
Outcome:
Replaced fuel filter. Also replaced fuel pump for good measure. 3,000 miles later, No problem since. All done under Warranty.
Fulltimers
Fulltimers Weblog
2003 Rexhall Aerbus 3550BSL
W-22 Workhorse
2001 Saturn SC2 (Mr. Toad)
Photos
Driveline (Engine, Transmission):
Work Horse 8.1, Allison
Miles:
1000
1500
10000
Year:
2003
Break Down Description:
Engine Missfire
Symptoms:
Rough idle, low power,
Effect:
None
Cause:
#5 spark plug boot burnt
Outcome:
1000 miles, replaced plug wire
1500 miles replaced plug wire, added Workhorse vent kit
10000 miles replaced plug wire with new design from Workhorse, directed vent kit outlet directly at #5 plug per Workhorses instructions. 5000 miles later, no failure.
Don
2004 Bounder
300 Cummins ISB
Freightliner
2003 Alero
FMCA # 363891/Coachnet
Driveline: Cummins 8.3C, Allison World
Miles: 125k
Year: 1994
Break Down Description: Sudden power loss, no steering assist
Symptoms: Hot dash A/C wiring
Effect: hot wires heated the resetable ignition circuit breaker causing engine shut down unexpectedly.
This would happen on damp rainy days when I would run the winsheild demist setting on the dash heater/AC. Sudden power loss was traced to curcuit panel under heat vent under dash.
Avoided problem by relocated panel to cooler location and moved the "hot curcuit" from below the ignition curcuit.
Now refrain from using the winsheild demist setting until I figure out whats causing the dash AC to draw so much current that it heats the wiring so much. Dash AC no longer operative.
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): Chevy, Chevy
Miles:~35K
Year:2000
Break Down Description: How is this different from Symptons?
Symptoms:Transmission shifted down to 2nd gear and stayed there.
Effect:Limped to nearest exit on interstate.
Cause
hift transducer needed replacing.Outcome:After transmission repair ran normally.
RV particulars:1994 Winnebago Brave on P30 Chassis
Driveline (Engine, Transmission)
Miles:~38k
Year:2000
Break Down Description: Driving near Mt. Rushmore, going down a hill and engine cut off. Pulled over to a pullout and parked.
Symptoms
Effect:Luckily there was a convenient pullout and we werent' going very fast. If happened 1/4 mile later we would have been on much steeper decline and could have been a bad day.
Cause:After being towed to Rapid City chevrolet dealer and much trouble shooting, the mechanic found that a wiring bundle which was routed over the intake tube for the air cond. compressor had an over wrap that gaped open. A wire inside had the insulation rubbed off and exposed wire shorted to the a/c compressor intake tube.
Outcome
Driveline: Cummins ISC 350 and Allison MH3060
Miles: 4,500
Year: 2004
Symptoms: Noticed considerable diesel fuel contamination on toad and back of motorhome after climbing 6% grade.
Break down description: No actual breakdown, just concern for fire hazard and paint condition on toad.
Remedy: Took the unit to Cummins facility and found, after considerable troubleshooting that the high pressure fuel lines (could not determine which one due to fogging) were leaking only under significant load. Cummins replaced all high pressure fuel lines and cleaned the engine and radiator. Issue has not recurred.
2004 Alpine Avalanche DP
2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee toad
2005 Mini Cooper S
2000 Vette FRC (for the track)
Driveline (Engine, Transmission):
ford 460
Miles:
27,00
Year:
1996
Break Down Description:
pulled off to the side of the road with trailer in tow and put flashers on. left unit for 1 min, passenger inside told me that smelt like wires burning. come to find out flasher fried
Symptoms: couldn't shift out of park cause blew a fuse for the brake signal
Effect:
flasher fried no turn signals and couldn't shift out of park cause blew a fuse for the brake signal
Cause: too many lights flashing off of a 2 pin mechanical flasher
Outcome:
had to end up getting towed after paying 800 bucks to find out it was a fuse that i had in the coach. replaced fuse and replaced flasher with a 3 pin electronic flasher. now that motorhome is being traded in.
Driveline (Engine, Transmission):
ford 6.8 liter V10
Miles: 26,666
Year:2003
Break Down Description: Engine wouldn't fire, battery power good, gas tank full, fuses good.
Cause: self-tapping screws used someplace under the bed were screwed into fuel pump wiring harness eventually breaking through wires.
Outcome:
had to get towed 75 miles, watching repair shop drain 90 gallons from a supposed 75 gallon tank, they dropped the gas tank to get at the fuel pump (we originally thought it was the fuel pump) and found the exposed and broken wiring. This is the 3rd instance we've had with Winnebago and their self-tapping screw problem. They fall out all over the place (causing 1 flat tire). I just have to wonder if they have any idea what they are screwing into when they build their bodies!
Walker girl
2004 Newmar Dutchstar
Grand Cherokee Toad
Garmin 7200 GPS
Always remember that you are unique, just like everyone else.
no start ... short in ignition wire ... bypassed to battery drawer ... now I have a surefire anti theft device:
attery drain while driving and died as we coasted to a spot of safety ... thought it was alternator ... many hours, new alternator, new batteries, head scratching time later ... the "Isolator" was burnt ... 50 cent piece of wire later it was bypassed and I was headed down the road ::after successful fishing trip deep in Canada rig started to buck then died ... thought it was dirty fuel filters ... after a $1500 tow, diagnosis fuel pump ... 2 days later it arrived ... on down the roadThats all folks!
Driveline (Engine, Transmission):
Work Horse 8.1, Allison
Miles:
12000
Year:
2003
Break Down Description:
Hard Start
Symptoms:
Took 3 tries to start
Effect:
Once started motorhome ran fine, no power loss, no missing or bucking
Cause:
Plugged Fuel Filter
Outcome:
Engine takes 55 psi fuel pressure to start. First try fuel pressure was 30psi, second try fuel pressure was 40psi, third try finally enough psi to start. Once started psi was high enough to run fine.
Jerry
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): Freightliner, Cummins ISB 300hp, Allison 3000
Miles: 24500
Year: 2003
Break Down Description: Starter failed on my first trip at 24500 miles. This also happened to the original owner on his first trip. My coach has the 3rd starter in it and has less than 30k miles.
Symptoms:
Effect:
Cause: Freightliner says failure both times was from trying to start the motor while the engine was running. Freighliner mechanic says this is common on the ISB's and that the starter is too light duty. Giant RV Murreita delivered a coach with a starter on its last leg twice... Freightliner tried to say it was driver error but so far has paid for it under warranty.
Outcome:
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): CAT C7 350hp, Allison 3000mh
Miles: 5426
Year: 2006
Break Down Description: started engine to leave campground. pressed button to retract jacks and heard a loud sound like air escaping. could not get front air pressure to come up with jacks retracted. lowered jacks and front air came up to 120 lbs. retracted jacks and lost air again.
Symptoms: low front air pressure with jacks retracted.
Effect: air bags would not inflate
Cause: quick connect air hose blew off of right front air bag.
Outcome: called Coachnet and they sent truck service who reconnected air hose.
Joe & Loretta
2012 Winnebago View24M
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): Freightliner XC chassis, Cummins 300HP ISB, Allison 2500 (5 speed)
Miles: 19,000
Year: 2005
Break Down Description: Last used MH in mid-January. No engine problems since we purchased it new. Early February, MH in driveway, preparing to leave that afternoon for FL. Engine would crank but would not start. No problems of any sort since acquiring new. Called ERS for assistance. They showed up within an hour. Field tech from authorized Freightliner repairer pulled code for "Low Fuel Pressure". He tried for two hours to determine problem. He advised fuel wasn't getting to top of engine and suspected fuel injection pump. Left MH and drove SUV to FL with 6 people in vehicle that night. Upon return from vacation, was towed to repairer's shop. Tech was correct. High Pressure fuel injection pump was replaced. All costs taken care of through warranty.
Symptoms: Engine would crank but would not turn over. Check engine light came on. Field tech advised code was for "Low Fuel Pressure".
Effect: Had to be towed.
Cause: Replaced high pressure fuel injection pump under warranty.
Outcome: Everything covered under warranty. Service and level of response from Tri-State Truck in Shrewsbury, MA (authorized warranty shop for Freightliner) was outstanding!
* This post was edited 03/16/06 10:10am by millikeg *
2004 Coachmen Sportscoach Elite 402 TS
1997 Monaco Dynasty Baron III 38'
Me, Her, 3 kids,a dog and a cat.
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): ISB, 300hp
Miles: 31500
Year: 03
Break Down Description: This is a triple slide unit with the Fridge mounted to the inside of the slideout. The fridge is mounted in two places, the front top and the back bottom. The front top mount came undone, pulling the cabinet away from the wall.
Effect:
Cause: Poor design. Insufficient mounting hardware to handle the weight of the fridge.
Outcome: This is a common problem, however, as a second owner Fleetwood will not repair it. The bid to repair to orignial specs is $1000. I am going to take it to another shop or try to find someone to create a better mounting system because I do not want this to happen again.
RV particulars: HR Imperial 94
Driveline: Cummins 8.3C, Allison World
Miles: 125k
Year: 1994
Break Down Description: Sudden power loss, no steering assist
Symptoms: Hot dash A/C wiring
Effect: hot wires heated the resetable ignition circuit breaker causing engine shut down unexpectedly.
This would happen on damp rainy days when I would run the winsheild demist setting on the dash heater/AC. Sudden power loss was traced to curcuit panel under heat vent under dash.
Avoided problem by relocated panel to cooler location and moved the "hot curcuit" from below the ignition curcuit.
Now refrain from using the winsheild demist setting until I figure out whats causing the dash AC to draw so much current that it heats the wiring so much. Dash AC no longer operative.
I would look to see if the AC compressor is on its last leg. My Beaver coach kept tripping the 30a breaker everytime I would turn on the dash AC. Everything look OK on inspection, so we replaced the circuit breaker. Then when the electric clutch on the compressor would engage the wires got warm..pulling in excess of 20a. Once the compressor was replaced the loads went back to normal and the dash air was cold again.
Lee
Most to least common problems:
Tires - Used RV's tires are used and I have found over or under inflation as well as driving to fast to be the number 1 problem. Soulution buy new tires at least fronts/
Hanging brakes - Chevy bad brake hose or hoses. Ford sticking caliber
Ford fuel pumps on the fuel injected units mostly 1996 model RV's
Ford loss of power burnt up plugs or wires
1994 Fleetwood Flair sheered distributor pin ( I don't like Flairs)
No one likes to break down the stress level is off the chart and all at once. Just remember to stay calm relax and think. Most of the time what seems like a major problem is not and you can save time and money if you go at it alone.
Thats all for now tires and sticky brakes mostly. I'm just glad I drive them this far and deal with these common problems so my customers don't have to. There's a good tip when buying used ask the sales man, "How far did YOU drive it".
Only wish you were in this area. The best known dealer has been the most difficult to do business with after the sale. Fact known by many RV owners.
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): Chevy 454, Turbo 400 transmission
Miles: 48,000 +/-
Year: 1986
Break Down Description: Transmission failure. My wife, grandson and myself left San Diego for our trip to Lake Tahoe, we took hwy 395. I was towing my jeep wrangler and the transmission temperature gauge (that I had installed several years earlier) started to climb a little but it was within operating limits. I noticed that when starting from a stop I had to manually place the transmission in 1st gear to get it to start in first if I did not, it would start in second gear. We decided to stop for the night in a little town called Lone Pine at a RV park. The next morning the transmission would not shift out of first gear at all. the transmission overheated and was disabled in a turnaround on hwy 395. I let it cool off and was able to limp it back to Lone Pine to a auto repair and towing facility. the transmission was toast and I had to order a remanufactured transmission from AC-Delco. 3 days and $2,500 later we were back on the road to Tahoe. We had an unplanned 3 day stay in Lone Pine.
More history about my rig: the transmission that failed had been rebuilt twice already, the first time by the original owner at around 25,000 miles right before I purchased the rig, the second time when I owned the rig at around 37,000 miles, 2 years prior to the failure at Lone Pine. The transmission shop that rebuilt it at 37,000 miles guarantied it for only 12,000 miles or one year, the breakdown in Lone Pine happened 2 years after, so it was already out of warranty. I was very careful taking every measure to keep the transmission running cool. When I first purchased the motorhome I installed an external transmission cooler (I could not believe that it didn't have one) with an electric puller fan mounted to it. Later I installed a second transmission cooler with another electric fan. I changed the transmission fluid and filter much more frequently than recommended.
My opinion is that my rig was just too heavy and pulling my jeep was just too much. Although the transmission failed before even before I started to tow my jeep.
31,000 miles
Drove from Indio, CA to El Paso. Pulled into the Flying J at Anthony to overnight. As I parked, the dash panel went dead and the engine died. Would not restart although engine would turn over with the starter. Dash panel showed no sign of the ignition being on. It was late so I went to bed. Got up next morning and the dash came back to life. Stopped at Freightliner on the way out of town and bought spare relays for the ignition system.
Next day was pulling into a Louisiana rest area at mile marker 2 on I-20 when the dash panel went dead again and the engine died. Checked everything I could think of and went to bed, planning to get a wrecker the next day. Next morning it was alive again so I drove on. Got 230 miles further East and was passing a truck while going 70. Panel died, tach and speedometer dropped to zero and I got it to the shoulder. Crawled under and on it for four hours with a test set with no solution. Got a wrecker and a Loadall to carry to Empire Freightliner in Jackson, MS. They got on it 24 hours later and, again, it started up.
I have a 135 amp main breaker on order 'cause every "teck" at Gaffney says that is what it sounds like but I know they are wrong. I put a test set on that breaker while it was dead and, anyway, the starter would have been dead if it was open.
Plan to drive for eight hours next week never getting over 20 miles from Empire Freightliner. I have the shop foremans phone number on speed dial in my cell phone.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated,
John Brewer
1998 CC Magna
Xantrex RS3000 inverter (POS!)
Replaced with an Prosine 3.0 (has worked for two weeks??)
36K miles
Dealership replaced with a big apology and a few other very minor things on warranty, also, we convinced them to give us an extra 4 hours of brand new owners classes no charge. (brand new off lot as of 4/2006)...
[Mantanace man, Randy, said this was very uncommon especially on a Winnebago Sunrise.]
Very happy with the attitude of "we want to make your buying and maintanace needs no problem." E-mail me if you want a recommendation on who to buy from. DFW, TX area...
those who move often, get instruction on how to be friendly
I don't want to be a part-time mechanic while I'm trying to be on a relaxing family fun vacation. Can someone please help me understand?
Four Winds 2002 Hurricane 33SL
Family of 7
Husband, wife, 2 kids
2 dogs, 1 parrot (solomon island eclectus, male)
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): Cummins 230hp 5.9l with a 6-sp Allison
Miles:40,000
Year:1994
Break Down Description: Shut off engine with the key & it kept running.....and running! I called the shop that does my maintenance & they put my mechanic on the line. He had me check the solenoid to see if it was stuck; he also suggested that I pull the connector that powers the solenoid if it wasn't 'stuck'.
Cause: Spring return for fuel solenoid missing & solenoid wouldn't close.
Outcome: Found solenoid & moved it closed by hand.
We've just bought our new motor home (2006 Newmar Scottsdale) and drove it home (a 150 mile trip one way), parked it in the driveway, and began planning and packing for our first vacation. We were to leave tomorrow morning, but now we can't because our automatic leveling jacks won't come down. They're stuck. We had driven it only to gas up, then returned home with it, and now can't get the jacks to come down. We've called the manufacturer of the leveling jacks for help. They tried over the phone to walk us through some things to see if it would work, but NO luck. Now, we've got to postpone the vacation, and make the 300 mile roundtrip back to the dealership for them to work on it. I'm having major anxiety attacks about what we have gotten ourselves into. We're not even out of the driveway yet! At least it is fixable, we think, and it is drivable. When our friends heard we bought a new RV, they all have said, "Oh, you're going to have so much fun!". I am beginning to seriously wonder if the fun will ever happen!
Being a 1st timer my self, we've heard that buying a brand new MH is like buying a brand new house. There will be kink and quirks that need to be worked out at the begining. Then everything should be fine and only regular maintenance is all that is needed. Accepting that expectation will calm you down.
Unfortunatly it's not like buying a new car. Because we're so used to buying new cars and expect them to be perfect, we approach the brand new MH with the same expectation. It's just not that way. I believe it should be that way, but I can't change an entire industry.
Just keep a positive attitude and you'll be able to rack up those life long family memories.
We've just bought our new motor home (2006 Newmar Scottsdale) and drove it home (a 150 mile trip one way), parked it in the driveway, and began planning and packing for our first vacation. We were to leave tomorrow morning, but now we can't because our automatic leveling jacks won't come down. They're stuck. We had driven it only to gas up, then returned home with it, and now can't get the jacks to come down. We've called the manufacturer of the leveling jacks for help. They tried over the phone to walk us through some things to see if it would work, but NO luck. Now, we've got to postpone the vacation, and make the 300 mile roundtrip back to the dealership for them to work on it. I'm having major anxiety attacks about what we have gotten ourselves into. We're not even out of the driveway yet! At least it is fixable, we think, and it is drivable. When our friends heard we bought a new RV, they all have said, "Oh, you're going to have so much fun!". I am beginning to seriously wonder if the fun will ever happen!
The failed jacks shouldn't stop your trip. Even those of us who've been spoiled by jacks know some boards under the tires will do the job... just a little more hastle. I'd have taken the trip, then returned to dealer on the way home. You'll likely find more glitches on the trip anyway, and the dealer can take care of them, saving another 300 mile round trip later; though eventually you'll have to have scheduled service anyway.
You made no mistake with your purchase, esp. buying a Newmar product. So quit fretting. The anxiety will ruin your experience if you let it, and you'll eventually see that it is unfounded. Like the previous commentor implied, these rigs are complicated bundles of components, any one or more of which will go haywire. It is not the end of the world - just get the glitches fixed under warranty after heavy first season's use to ferret them all out. As long as you don't let constant worry get in the way, you'll have a rig full of fun in the process.
* This post was edited 06/05/06 02:22pm by 1/2 Canadian *
Retired Navy, 39 Years
2005 Winnebago Voyage 35D
2006 Honda Crv
Blue OX Alexus Tow Bar
Brake Buddy
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): Cummins ISC 350, Allison 3000MH
Miles: About 35000 (then); 43000 (now)
Year:2001
Break Down Description: Erratic gauge display, engine stumble.
Symptoms
peedometer would flick up to maximum, then back to correct road speed, at irregular intervals (generally less than one minute apart.) At the same moment, engine would stumble, but recover to full power.Effect: Disconcerting but driveable.
Cause: Unsure (see below)
Outcome
orrected itself after several miles at low speed during a detour.Recurred several days (and many miles) later. Took it to Cummins in Albuquerque on return home; they could not duplicate the problem (but charged for trying.)
Eventually I crawled under the coach and inspected two wires connected to tranny where illustration indicated the speed sensor output might be. Wires looked good; disconnected and re-connected them anyway. The problem has not recurred.
BTW, where is the compilation of all these problems? It's a lot to read through!
Fifty miles from home in a class c, A Flat
200 miles from home A Blowout
250 miles from home Fuel Filter Failure.
Took 6 days to go 500 miles.
June 2006
Engine timing sensor failed. Power Steering, warning flashers failed. An RV dealer (reputable?) improperly installed a controller for a tow dolly. Positive wired to the solenoid, negative to the frame. Can't prove it caused the failures, Go Figure. OBTW the RV dealer is out of Panama City, Florida. At first he agreed to reimburse for the full labor to fix the problem, then agreed to 2 hours labor reimbursement. However, after he talked to the tech, the tech said he did not wire it improperly and someone changed the wiring during the 1200 miles I had travelled. Makes since to me, I stopped at a Texas Rest area to use WIFI, got bored went out and changed the wiring. Will Never See a Dime. Will Carefully refer customers to him every opportunity I have. It is my sincere desire that his 14 year business thrives. Or, maybe he can retire buy a MH and have his Tech install a controller on it.
Not bad after 33 years of minor RV problems, with one prior fuel filter failure in 2004.
2006 Allegro Open Road 34WA, Workhorse W20, Allison 1000 6 speed
2013 Chevrolet Sonic LTZ
TST 507RV TPMS
2009 Blue Ox Aventa LX
2009 Brake Buddy
7.5 L EFI engine, Ford E-350 Chassis
45,000 Miles
Spring of 1998, when first purchased this used motorhome, had a flat tire on the right outside rear. (Not Michelins) Didn't know about tires aging out. Put new Michelins on, LTX 225/75R 16E A/S. (Came with 16Ds) Just replaced those with the same, except M/S, seventh year, with 29,000 miles on them. Excellent service with Michelins.
In April, 2003, On I-40 West of Nashville, left front brake smoking. Pulled in trouble lane. Called highway patrol. After letting it cool, he got me 2 miles up the road to Rest Area. Let it cool some more, and drove the 30 miles on to my destination (camp ground). Brake company came out and said it was a caliper or line, and the only way to know, was to replace one or the other, and see if it happened again??????? I had them replace the calipers and lines on both front wheels. Who wants to chance that in the mountains????? I might mention I had the front brakes redone just before I left, but they didn't do calipers and lines. All of the brake work totaled $1,600. My son thinks I got ripped off, but near Nashville, they had to special order parts, as they were heavier duty than a Ford E-350 truck.
The next April, with about 46,500 miles on it, transmission went out coming home from Bristol race. Had it rebuilt, and no problems since, with about 20,000 miles on it, mostly mountains.
7.4 Workhorse 4 speed
trouble description: wouldn't shift, lost dash gauges, quit.
Coming home from 80 mile trip, everything was running fine, had to stop for a stoplight, when getting back up to speed wouldn't shift past second. Since I was only 10 miles from home I thought I'd limp home. After 5 miles gas gauge, ammeter, and oil pressure gauges quit, in another mile tach and speedo quit and then finally the engine quit. Rolled to the side and started checking wires, found gauge fuse was blown. Replaced the 20amp fuse and MH started right up and ran normally. Still can,t figure out why things failed in sequence and not all at once. DW thought she smelled hot wiring, will check ign switch next.
Kip & Judy
2000 Georgie Boy Pursuit, 2001 Cherokee toad
1951 Pontiac with 400cu GTO running gear
1964 Corvair Monza all original
Driveline (Engine, Transmission)
ummings Diesel with an allison 6 speed trannyMiles: 78,000
Year:1995
Break Down Description: I was driving South on I-5 after a week-end at a LaConner Campground while climbing a slight incline near Everett Wa. The outside temperature was the high 80's. I had just had the normal service done to the engine by Cummings NW. The engine just cut out on me with no warning. I shut it down restarted it and got off to the side of the road. It would idle however when I put it into gear it would quit. I waited for an hour the was able to drive another 40 min. Freeway driving and stop and go in places before it quit again once again on a small incline two block from my house. I immediately re started and drove the two blocks and parked it.
Symptoms: No previous simptoms.
Effect:
Cause:unknown purged the water seperator no water. Stabalizer was added before the trip. Coach goes to shop tomorrow.
Outcome
oach goes to shop tomorrow.
Also thinking of buying some spare parts for common breaks on a diesel pusher motorhome like fuses fan belts etc.. does anyone have something like this?
I am about to buy this diesel pusher within two months can anyone steer my in the right direction as far as manufacturers? I read JohnnyT's info and many responses, great info, but a little mind numbing?
Limited funds will make my choices easier,I will be full timing/working in the coach and have been looking at older coaches 95' to 00' with atleast a 8.3 cummins (some without a slide)as I will be loaded down and towing a suburban (2 humans and 1 weimoraner),
also looking at more expensive models, by this I mean the Flettwood American coach line versus discovery or bounder, hoping like the boating industry they would put a little more effort and better core materials into the product which would hopefully translate into less problems, still this is an assumption.
Is anyone running biodiesel in their rig to save money?
Lastly, looking for the names of the directories that list all camp sites, state parks etc.. and costs for hook up, heard of Woodall's are there any others?
Thanks much,
ToTheLight
* This post was edited 11/20/06 05:36pm by Donhembree *
Driveline (Engine, Transmission):GM 8.1 not Allison Trans
Miles:22K
Year:2002
Break Down Description: Auto Park Brake applied while driving
Symptoms:Auto Park Brake warning light came on to indicate the resevour was low. Brake warning light came on when hydraulic pressure dropped.
Effect:Auto Park Brake, at rear of transmission, was applied.
Cause:Leak in body of valve that supplies pressur to Auto Park Brake.
Outcome: Stopped along side of the road for 21 hours until I could get towed. Had to remove drive shaft to tow. The first dealer disconnected the linkage so I could drive to Workhorse dealer 100+ miles away. Workhorse dealer found leaking valve (pin hole in valve body) and I had to wait two days for part to arrive.
You're Never To Old To Learn
I started looking at under $10k motorhomes,but they were pretty tacky,so we upped our budget to $20k(I've gotta be careful with my money 'till it starts "working" for me!)& still they weren't very acceptable to us.
We then went up to $26k & looked at mainly class "A"s in 'Vegas,still not happy with what some owners recon that good conditioncan mean cupboard doors hanging off,generators not kicking in when you go to view,& one had such bad steering/brakes,it shouldn't have even been on the road!
Well after a month of looking in the 'Vegas classifieds,& travelling what seemed like hundreds of miles across the city,Dawn was going to a friends house not more than 5 miles from where we live in NW LV,& she saw a nice looking m/home with a for sale sign on it,& a price tag of $15k!!!!!!
So we went around to view it,the owner was a very nice guy called Tony who used to work at K-Mart,& was the 2nd owner from new.
It's a '93 Frontier Flyer by Damon with 46k mls on the clock,perfect interior,everything works,& the Chevy V8 sounds as sweet as a nut.
NOW,here comes the bit you've all been waiting for!
Off we go to Utah,Bryce Canyon to be precise,all the way there,no problems,all thro' Bryce,great!,then we park up down a real long lonely track at Red Canyon,& settle down for the night.
So I think I'll start the generator so we can watch a bit of TV(or "telly" as we call it in England!)
Now we have had the genny running before,so we didn't forsee a problem,& as you will later read,it wasn't the gennies fault.
Just as I press the genny starter button,there's a slight "pop" from the dashboard/engine area,& all the lights go out!
Nothing,nada,nowt!!!!!!
Bloody hell,what're we gonna do now?
Start the engine & get back to civilisation!(it's 8pm on a Saturday night)
Will the engine start.......................NO!!!!!!!!
There's NO power anywhere to anything!!!!!!!
Oh dear,break out the candles.
I checked everything I could find,fuses,trips,cables from battery to battery,I wiggled,poked & prodded things..........still nothing!
Oh well,good job we joined the GOOD SAMS BREAKDOWN SERVICE 2 days ago,we'll give 'em a call in the morning.
Along comes a nice guy from Bryce Canyon Towing,has a look,says there's nothing he can do,& puts us on the back of his truck,& takes us back to the garage,& places us by a 110volts mains supply.
"There'll be no-one to look at it 'till Monday mornin'" he says.
So we plugged in,put on the air con,& phoned around to tell people we'd be a day or so late gettin' back to 'Vegas.
Well,our next door neighbour(English spelling!)John says he'll just pop up(250mls)& have a look for us(he used to own a garage in Cal
So he gets up there 4hrs later & we talk things thro',& he says well lets listen to if there's any clicking from the battery(flat batt; symptom)................
Guess what,IT STARTED!!!!!!!!!
He was somewhat dismayed at this as you can imagine,as he had not only travelled all that way,but he wanted to find a fault & repair it.
So we both go to fill up at a gas station just in front of the garage,& when I come to start it again......IT WON"T...start that is!
So he now has a chance to put his mechanical skills to the test,& within 5 minutes he's found it.........
...........A FAULTY GROUND.......................
It seems it only started before because it had just come of a mains supply & that had 'warmed it up' a bit,but as soon as there was a hint of a load on the system,nothing!
So he used his jump leads not only to test the battery output to the starter solenoid etc;,but also as a temporary ground lead to get us back to sunny 'Vegas.
1st of all many many thanks to the best neighbor(Yank spelling)in the world,but also to Sams Club Breakdown Services.
& the last word to you all out there is...................
..........maintain your vehicle,I know there's always the unexpected(fuel pumps etc
Happy & safe RVing you guys!
Mick'n'Dawn Moores.
Can nobody come up with a foolproof solution to this problem,other than the obvious?
ie;weld the groundwire permanently to the chassis.
or....have a special non corroding form of connection.
or............is this already out there & nobodies told me yet!!!!
Winston and JoAnn and one feline
Newbies as of 6/2006
1999 Dutch Star 38'
Mystic, CT and the road, somewhere
49 odd posts so far and very few posts on V10 problems, other than minor issues like shroud air intake to counteract heavy rain! Workhorse complaints abound! I'm feeling I may have made the right decision. Was worried about V10 because of horror stories about spitting out spark plugs.Lots of these complaints documented, but what are the real #'s? If 200,000 of these engines have been built, (have no idea how many manufactured between 98-04)did 200 have this problem? I'm sure atleast some are caused by improper r and r.
I'm willing to take the gamble. Plugs will probably be the least of my worries!
Best of luck to all
DYNOPEG Winnipeg Canada
2001 Fleetwoood Southwind
THE MIGHTY V-10
* This post was edited 09/02/06 10:23pm by bratpenny *
I think that the only thing left is either a dirty/misaligned/unplugged connector or the start switch itself. You should probably have an electrical shop debug it, or if you have one, use a voltmeter on it and trace out the starting voltage from the strart switch on...where does it stop?
Also, check the fuses under the dash, you might have a blown start fuse (they can weaken with age or whatever).
Robert, Jackie & Tootsie
2006 Discovery 330 Diesel
2006 Expedition
Mission Tx
I haven't been traveling long distances with it yet, but my general trip has averaged a little over 10mpg...yes that's 10mpg! Last owner said he didn't get over 9 in it, but a new air filter, plugs, timing adjustment, etc...and she runs like a champ. Overhead air works wonderfully, both front and rear bedroom. However, I have NOT flushed the winterizer out of the water tanks, so I'm still in need of doing that. Last owner took decent care of the unit, so I'm assuming all is good. I'll let everyone know when it breaks down, if ever!
After hundreds of trips camping with my father, who is passed away, I decided to buy this to go back to my youth! Although it isn't the same without him, it helps me remember (and I'm not that old...) the good old days. We had a truck bed unit for years. It's great...
Sounds like a good plan, to me. Chances are good your contributions will be read by somebody here who has been-there, done-that, and learned a few things about it (so you won't have to learn them all the hard way). Chances are also good, your contributions will be read by someone about to make a mistake you save him or her from making. That's the ORF at its finest.
and the same thing happened 1500 miles later this time it came loss and fell to the road, not a fun ride!! The rig is in the shop now getting repaired, I hope far the last time.
Got the motorhome back today 9-12-06 .The problem was some how the ride got out of adjustment which put the drive line in a bind.
* This post was edited 09/13/06 09:08pm by hnolen2000 *
Last week took a trip from Fl to NJ.
first the backup monitor went out, then next day flat tire.
was on our way home and started to rain heavy and the wiper went flying off. The unit is at the dealer. I hope this is the last of this for awhile. I do like traveling.
370 isl, allison 3000
12304 miles
2002
air bag deflated while driving
smoke from right rear tire well
HWH computerized leveling system
outcome tba
Driving down I-5 south of Sacramento, Ca, saw smoke coming from right rear tire well. Pulled over and smoke stopped. Noticed on leaving RV that the right rear airbag light was on and drive light was off. Inspection of right rear tires disclosed that the airbags had deflated and that the outer tread on the outboard tread on the dual tire had been worn off 1/4 inch. Did the Good Sam thing, they know me by name these days. This occurred on 9/2/06. After 40 calls GS found a company that was willing to come to my aid. After numerous calls of my own to CC, GS tech support and my Salesman at Guaranty RV in Junction City we manually inflated the bags and crepped to the RV park we were headed to. The repair technician arrived at 7:30 at night and after an hour of trouble shooting decided that all the valves worked and that there were no leaks. Three hours later after working on his back in the dark with a flash light this saint and magician from HEERs Automotive and Diesel from Yuba City, Ca. figured out how to by pass the faulty controller and run lines from the left side controller. We were able to finish the week and drive home to Yuba City without incident. The gentleman from Heers drove over 130 miles one way, worked under our rig for fours hours in the dark with a flash light and was able to get us road able. It is too early to finish the story. I still have to get the rig to a service center. Will the extended warranty cover the fault, will Drive Ins cover the damage to the tire and unknown system damage..stay tuned.
fleetwood Pace Arrow '81
over heating on the way home from private sale
cause - fan belt broke
replace fan belt with pr of panty hose (yes it worked to get it off interstate)
actually drove it about 17 miles like that - replace the belt and it works fine.... (sorry honey - I will buy you a new pair)
I now carry a full set of spare belts!
JAG
1993 Pace Arrow Diesel
2004 Saturn VUE V6 AT
El Cajon, CA 92019
Brand new coach....my second three hour wait for wrecker was TODAY for this fan issue...
First time the side cooling fan had come off, that was in late July...
2007 London Aire Diesel Bus
2005 ATC 24' Stacker Trailer
'07 Hummer H3 and Custom golf cart inside
Idirect F2 on 93W
1994 36' Allegro Bay DP cummins 5.9(40k miles) w/ 6speed Allison Transmission
Purchased unit from private individual in MS drove home to Ar(300 miles) with no problems, two weeks later drove to Mo(250 miles) camping no problen during road trip. Set up and tried to move next morning jacks come up, engine started, transmission would not engage or light panel. Had just signed on for GSC(w/ERS) the day before they responded on site in about an hour with service truck, could not find problem called tow rig which was on site in about 2 hrs from original call. Will conectingtow rig to unit, unit was started to straighten wheels and everything started working. Tow was cancelled, cause has not been identified. Unit has operated normally since but have been afraid to use levelers as this is what the technician suspected was the problem but could not verify.
2000 Country Coach
Next step was to call Beaver Service Center in Bend, OR. They also had several suggestions which weren't resolving the problem. In the meantime, contacted AAA and they contacted a towing service. Unfortunately, our AAA coverage did not include RV towing!!! Just great!! Welcome to rving!!
We finally talked to a towing company out of Susanville and the gentleman was very helpful and suggested we needed a service truck instead of towing. (of course, it couldn't be 'towed' since it was practically sitting on the ground, and he would have to get a permit to put it on a flatbed due to height restrictions.)
In the meantime, talking to Beaver, etc., determined the problem was in the air suspension system. The previous owner called several times and insisted that he drive up to where we were (2 1/2 hours from his home) to see if he could help. The service man arrived after we had sat for approx 5 1/2 hours and shortly thereafter the previous owner arrived.
The service man determined it was a front air suspension valve that had failed and caused the air hose to break away. He did not have the type of valve needed so he drove back to his shop in Susanville to rig something up that would get us going again. In the meantime the previous owner arrived with his wife and dog to help. They sat with us for 2 1/2 hours while the service man was gone and was just about to leave upon our insisting that all was okay, when the service man arrived. So he had to find out exactly what he was going to do to by-pass the valve. It was a very clever rig, running a longer hose from the broken valve up to the front of the coach under bumper. Simple open/close valve that my husband could manually operate to get the air suspension up so we could travel.
All work was completed after 8 hours on the road side, and the previous owner paid for the service call. We got back home the next day which is just 15 miles from the Bend Service Center. Of course, I immediately got online and signed up for GSC with ERS.
We talked to Beaver about our new valve setup and they determined the coach would be okay to use over the weekend. The next day we drove 200 miles to a fishing tournament on the Columbia River in Boardman, OR, and camped at the Boardman RV Park and Marina (very nice park, right on the river and large paved sites). No problems going or coming on this trip!!
Took the coach into Beaver service center on Tuesday the following week and had the front valve replaced. One of the back air suspension valves was also leaking and the other one looked worn, so replaced those also. Had the coach "PDI'd" by Beaver and they repaired the cab A/C, serviced the aqua hot, and did a little seal work on the entry door. Other items listed were minor and can be repaired by us.
All in all, we love the coach and have just done a winterization but will use again in October for ten days and then winterize all over again.
Hope this helps someone out there who has an air suspension problem.
Sandy in Oregon
1997 Beaver Marquis Opal Edition 40'
Toad 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee
Sandy and Terry Brown
New to rving
Borrego Ed
* This post was edited 10/19/06 12:32am by Borrego Ed *
Thanks
Problem: Coolant tank "sight glass" (actually plastic) broken.
This empties about 1.5 gal of coolant. Lucky I found this shortly after it happened. Quick fix to get you on the road: 1. use nylon drain plug from the water heater to temporarily plug the hole. 2. somebody also had the problem and used a "boat drain plug"
2001 American Dream
2000 Harley Heritage Classic
1974 Detomasop Pantera
Pulled off as soon as possible and stopped -- pressure on the gauge was down to under 20.
Oil was pooling underneath the coach and looked like it poured out.
Got all over the underskirt and still managed to spray the toad.
Had it towed (Coach-Net was great but the tow truck managed to damage both of my mirrors!) and just received a call that the problem was a failed line and will be fixed tomorrow under warranty.
2011 Airstream Classic Limited 34'
2011 GMC Sierra 2500HD Duramax/Allison SRW
Follow our adventures
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): Triton V-10 (has Banks Ram-Air added on)
Miles: 33,000+ (had 28,000 when we purchased it in April, 2006)
Year: 2000
Break Down Description: making a right turn when heard loud noise; thought we hit something or were dragging something
Symptoms: loud road noise
Effect: wheel fell off
Cause: wheel bearings in right tax axle seized up
Outcome: burnt up brake and scored brake drum, had to replace all parts & brake drum had to be re-turned.
We had come from Branson, MO down US 65 and decided to get gas before we hit I-40. There was a Wal-Mart there (Conway, AR) with good price, so we decided to turned in. As we turned in, we heard a loud noise and we thought we had either hit something or were dragging something. We pulled to a stop, got out, and found out that our right tag axle wheel had come off. We went into Wal-Mart and called around for a mobile RV service. We found one and settled in to wait for them. While we waited, we called our extended warranty folks to find out what we needed to do. It seems the service person would have to call them and get an authorization number before doing any work. When the service guy called, he was told that he had to send an itemized list to the warranty place and they would let him know what to do. However, they wanted to have us towed to a service facility, even though this guy worked with several big RV companies doing roadside service. The tow would cost at least $700, but more like $1000, because we would have needed a flatbed towtruck. Since we had no idea whether or not the warranty place would pay, we declined and decided to have the guy fix it there and he could argue with the warranty place. Long story short, they would not pay for anything except $30 for bearings. Since the service guy was sent the wrong part and it would have been an additional four days sitting in the Wal-Mart parking lot (he needed a four hole brake assembly rather than the five hole he was sent - mind you he had sent pictures to show what he needed) we had him reassemble the wheel without the brake assembly (to the tune of $621.00!) and came on to Florida. So now we have a tag axle without the brake assembly and we need to have the rest of the work done. I am so disgusted with extended warranty companies. One pays through the nose for these warranties to keep from having such problems, and all one gets is stonewalled right and left. I am still going to speak with someone from the company to see if I can get them to come up with any money on the repair. I believe we are due it because the bearings (which they pay for) caused the problem! I had the service man check the other wheel on the tag and it was lubricated just fine! GRRRRRR!!!!
2000 Glendale Golden Falcon
2003 Dodge Ram 3500 HO Dually
Freightliner Chassis
5.9 liter Cummins engine
Towing 1998 Oldsmobile Intrigue
Me, Wife and 2 cats (cats have 15,000 miles)
Traveling south on I-75 to Florida through Tennessee. We felt a vibration when we climbing hills. We made it all the way to Florida but now we get vibration when accelerating from a light. The coach has 15,000 miles. At the 5,000 mile mark, had the oil changed according to the mfr specifications (Freightliner Service Center). They also lubed the chassis (at least according to the piece of paper). I took it to a Freightliner service center in Orlando. They very quickly found a bad universal joint. That was the good news. The bad news, they said, because it was not lubricated properly, it was not covered under warranty. I don't know how they can tell, the parts were in such bad shape. Cost me $389. The Florida service center called the place that did the original lube job but got no where.
So extended warranty companies are not the only guilty. I'm not really thrilled with original equipment (Freightliner) manufacturers.
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): Cummins 5.9L, 190HP, Allison 4 speed.
Miles: 126,000
Year: 1994
Break Down Description: Alternator would not charge chassis battery, dim lights.
Symptoms: Dash voltage meter went high for about an hour or so before failure, then into discharge and stayed there.
Effect: Had to cross wire house batteries to chassis (starting) battery and run genset to stay on road. (Genset set up to charge all batteries using the 120V to 14V converter - shorted the 'Aux' switch on the dash so the batteries were crossed with a relay used for starting the rig with a low chassis battery).
Cause: Bad alternator.
Called Freightliner and found my alternator is a Delco 21 SI @ 100 amp. They asked $470 before shipping. Called several places but eventually found a local auto parts store that had them at $162 total (after core return), includes tax and $10 for them to swap the pulley. Difficult part was the part number mis-match between the Freightliner p/n and the Delco generic p/n.
Although this alternator was caked with dirt and road debris, it performed it's job for over 126,000 miles. I found one of terminals on the internal voltage regulator was so corroded it fell off when I moved the connector.
Good job Delco.
Outcome: Replaced bad alternator, dress up wiring, back on road. Three hours plus part chase time.
You name one, they're all pretty much alike! I could tell a similar horror story to the one above. When I got home I immediately canceled my extended warranty. They not only are expensive, but the pay back from these folks (or at least getting them to) is pathetic!
Melissa & Steve (MNC USNR retired)
FMCA F335327, GS
'05 HR Ambassador 36PDD, Saturn Vue Toad
8.3L Cummins w/ 6sp Allison
After being towed to a service center at around 3am, The technician, who was still working at that hour, found that the ground cables on the chassis batteries were so loose the battery management system shut the whole thing down.
The pre-delivery inspection the week before obviously left something to be desired, although I will take part of the blame for trusting the dealer.
Icing on the cake. A state trooper was following us when this happened. He stopped and gave me a warning ticket for driving without lights.
Fulltimer since 2004
2003 Revolution 40C
2003 Ford Explorer Sport-trac
Driveline: Cat C7 350hp, Allison 6 speed
Miles: 7,400
Year: 2006
Break Down Description: Engine would not shut down
Symptoms: Turn ignition off, remove key, engine still running
Effect: I think you've got it
Cause: Bad ignition switch
Outcome: Freightliner CS sent us to Enterprise Truck Sales near Jackson, Mississippi where we were treated extremely well while the problem was diagnosed and fixed.
Gary
2006 Excursion, 39S
Freightliner, 350 Cat C7
2003 Liberty, F366040
Caterpillar RV Engine Owner's Club
About a year ago the engine would not shut off when the key was turned off. A call to Cummins said probably a diode burned out in line to alternator allowing back feed to fuel shutoff valve keeping it open. Immediate solution was to pull the five fuses in battery compartment which shut engine off
The diode was burned out, I had a larger capacity one so replaced it and has worked fine.
Driveline
hevy 454Miles:24000
Year:1994
Break Down Description: No electrical power.
Symptoms:Voltmemter was reading 10 volts
Effect
ngine totally shut down while driving down the roadCause
ad alternatorOutcome
ut a new chassis battery in it on the side of the road. I was told to take it to Camping World which I had just enough power to get there, only to find out that they don't do engine repairs. I had 3 people refer me there. Luckily I was able to get it fixed at a small garage only about a mile away.
* This post was edited 12/03/06 08:27pm by fuzzbutt *
John, Sherry & Sabrina
+ Mowgli (Keeshond) Shane (Border Collie) Sunny (Sun Conure) & Lily (Cockatiel)
94 Winnebago Adventurer 34'
04 Nissan Murano
05 Acura TL
92 Honda Gold Wing
Now.....bring me that horizon.
Good news! Heritage extended warranty covered everything. Service manager at Charlibois Freightliner Service center said they were the most professional and easist warranty company he ever dealt with. Best investment I ever made!
W . P. Steinberger
Not picking on Wantfulltime but a neglected service item probably should not be covered. I also suggest that the other side be serviced at your earliest convience.
If you buy a used MH and not sure about the bearings being sereviced, bite the bullet and have the service done, for your piece of mind
Dennis and Sheri Dickinson
1996 Pace Arrow Vision
Called Papa's bus.
Dennis & Sheri
2006 Sportcoach Encore
Good Sam Life Time Membershttp://www.rv.net/images/forum/RVN_LifetimeLogo.gif
FMCA member F399328
Car Dolly
2013 Jeep Wrangler
2011 Chevy Tahoe
Where to start..1st a broken injector line caused by the injector line bracket breaking. Fixed by replacing line and welding bracket. Next year, guess what, bracket weld failed and you guessed it, same injector line broke. Ever see what diesel fuel does to a toad's finish? Next, sudden overheating. This time replaced thermostat, problem solved. Same trip woke up at 2:00 AM, coach is shaking and sounds like someone running a single cylindar generator. Got up to check, It was our coach! Gnerator was trying to start..no I don't have auto gen..burned up starter motor on generator..smoke pouring from front of coach...control unit bad. Finished trip by disconnecting generator battery wires, so still had 12V in coach. When generator checked, also had a magnet that had disintegrated. Also an oil leak in front of engine and oil pan, both spotted when getting generator fixed.
Good news! Heritage extended warranty covered everything. Service manager at Charlibois Freightliner Service center said they were the most professional and easist warranty company he ever dealt with. Best investment I ever made!
Not saying that you are an employee of Heritage but members should also condition their opions with a quick google on company click here
Sounds like you might just be an exception rather than typical with this company.
330 Cummins, MH3000 Allison
Year - 2002
67,000 miles
We full time, therefore frequently on the move. I take my maintenance seriously and also perform frequent inspections, looking for abnormalities. I have never experienced a breakdown on the road.
I also do most of the maintenance and repairs.
Southbound I-75 to Fla. Turnpike from Dothan, Al to Miami, Fl.
Ran great, bought gas in Orlando, after the first half of my 600 mile trip.
We stopped to pay a toll in Delray Beach, 60 miles from home.
Bus stalled, and would not start for a while.
Finally managed to get it started, and could only accelerate VERY, VERY slowly.
We are still trying to find service fror it here in Miami to help diagnose the problem.
Have had 2 mechanics look at it. One says fuel pump, one said exhaust back pressure, now say timing chain (after removing all exhaust componets.
1992 M34 Tiffin Allegro Bay Pusher '34
41,000 Miles
190HP Cummins, 4spd Allison
6X10 Pace Journey Enclosed Trailer
Maybe your air cleaner collapsed and restricted engine breathing.....
When I buy my class A I will ask a service tech what have you seen in common break downs with this unit? If it's under a grand total and I think I can change it, I will carry it! Might even buy parts that I can't change out myself if dealers don't normally carry it .(I'll ask a few dealers in my travels if they have that part in stock) ..... Yeah I know it's not nice to ask a Mechcanic to install my parts but if they don't have it in stock and I do they shouldn't refuse. I will buy/carry a spare tire and think everyone should!
That's my think'n anyhoot ! victorydaveAnyone that owns a diesel MH that doesn't carry a spare full filter(s) and the tool to remove it is asking for it in I.M.H.O.
* This post was edited 12/10/06 06:54am by victorydave1 *
Before I left, I checked to make sure none of the intake hoses were collapsed or anything obvious........
New owner
F/U Problem below repeated after short trip to Hot Springs, Ar. Was able to get Mid-South Cummins of Little Rock to look at it(seems no one in Ar will work on anything > 5yrs old, " its not worth our time") after 10 days of diagnostics and ording parts, transmission computer was replaced w/ all associated wiring harnesses that were burned and damaged cost $3900.
1994 36' Allegro Bay DP cummins 5.9(40k miles) w/ 6speed Allison Transmission
Purchased unit from private individual in MS drove home to Ar(300 miles) with no problems, two weeks later drove to Mo(250 miles) camping no problen during road trip. Set up and tried to move next morning jacks come up, engine started, transmission would not engage or light panel. Had just signed on for GSC(w/ERS) the day before they responded on site in about an hour with service truck, could not find problem called tow rig which was on site in about 2 hrs from original call. Will conectingtow rig to unit, unit was started to straighten wheels and everything started working. Tow was cancelled, cause has not been identified. Unit has operated normally since but have been afraid to use levelers as this is what the technician suspected was the problem but could not verify.
94 Fleetwood Flair Diesel Pusher
Thanks, Jack
Holy cow. Two blown head gaskets on a motor with 7k miles... Maybe it overheated the first time, warped it, and they didnt resurface the head correctly before they put it on the second time... Why did it overheat in the first place ?
Texas Kenworth in Dallas took care of the problem for me. The vent on the fuel tank was clogged. Runs like a dream now.
Talk with patience to the manufacturer & insist on a replacement.
After thinking all the problems had been addressed by Fleetwood Factory in Decatur, Indiana, we NEVER had a trip without problems. Had good service in Indiana where they did find many things wrong by original oversight. INSPECTIONS??? Hadn't even completed reinforcing the floors or allowing for the electric step to open out fully. (Minor, compared to following troubles, have print-outs as proof).
Do not have the time to even discuss problems found under the hood over the years. Some record, and in time, very expensive. Can not even sell "As Is". Waited, sentimental reasons and also mistakenly thinking each time we had a better rig.
Please, do some research in connection with the dealer attitude, relate there also. Hopefully this will help.
Still a wonderful way to travel & see the U.S.. Good luck!
I still dont understand... How did it blow a head gasket the first time ?
12/10/03 05:42am Link | Quote | Print | Notify Moderator
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After some conversation with Diesel-Lover and others on this forum I thought I would try to start a thread concerning breakdowns on the road. We try to prevent this by good maintenance and driving reasonably but it can still happen. As I observed in a previous post, on a roughly 350 mile northbound drive on I-75 I saw 4 class A MH broken down. All were southbound.
If we should have a breakdown and would post the following information on this thread it could be a resource and reminder for others.
RV particulars:
Driveline (Engine, Transmission):
Miles:
Year:
Break Down Description: (You can add any description of the problem here that you think would help others in understanding the situation and problem.)
Symptoms:
Effect:
Cause:
Outcome:
This is the type of information that is recorded in the aircraft industry and other maintenance activities to track failure trends. It will take a while before we see a lot of value in this. If it continues for a time and sufficient data is available, I will analyze the data and put it into a form that I can send by email to any interested parties. I would suspect that an initial report could be done in about three months or when we have about 100 to 150 cases.
I have to agree with 1/2 Canadian on this one. My impression of this thread from the start was that it should be a pure collection of RV failures and solutions...impartial, non-judgmental, concise. So the OP does not have to wade through a lot of 'noise' in order to create a practical and useful spreadsheet of RV failures (that caused a vehicle to stop on the road), which I thought was the original intent.
There isn't any reason a poster can't start another thread if s/he wants to cuss out a certain dealer or repair shop while they post the pertinent facts here. I'd be happy with the posters laying it all out, warts and all. But not in this thread.
I hope the moderator comes by and deletes all these useless posts to help clean this thread up.
JMO.
1. Breakdowns more common with rigs less than 5 to 7 years old
2. Most often filters, electrical, and grounding wires
3. Rigs 10+ yrs old; fewer posts by far, mostly aging electrical
parts or wires
Best prevention seems to me to inspect carefully during annual service ALL OF THE ENGINE COMPONETS & WIRES. Those posts indicating no on the road breakdowns are suggesting they do this religiously.
I would like to see other summaries also.
93 Safari DP 36ft
97 Ford Ranger
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): ISC 8.3 cummins, 6 sp Allison
Miles: 50k
Year: 99
Break Down Description: Shut off for 4 hours and when started ran bad and black smoke. I was close to home so got it back in driveway.
Symptoms: Runs very bad and lots of black smoke.
I scanned it with 2 different units both say "Injection control valve bad. I replaced the valve 408.00 but still runs same. I check
all the pins on the computer and looks good. Did a continuity test to most sensors, changed both fuel filters. I don't want to take it
to Cummins, but may have to. I hate to say it, but it's the worst engine I have ever owned. Im afraid to leave home with it.
Anyone got help?
That's true when running down the road, but this is at 600 rpm, idle.
No boost at idle, big puffs of black smoke at idle. I can't see how it
can be fat and still run at 600, since if you add fuel it picks up the speed.
If I give it throttle it will run up to the governor just fine, and lots of black smoke as well. I wonder if the computer is retarding the whole injection
cycle.
note, I have the air filter and soom of the ducting off and I can hear the turbo just going like gang busters if I run it up.
* This post was edited 02/28/07 01:58pm by snowman99 *
It's connected across the wiring to the Injection Control Valve, that's way it triggers the code for the ICV. This thing is bolted to the block next to the starter, hard to get to. I'll let you know if it fixes the beast.
454 throttle body injection.
Fast idle (1200+ RPM) required extra effort for stopping and hard on transmission when putting in gear.
Found bad gasket under the throttle body by spraying WD-40 on base.
Replaced gasket $2.40 and all OK.
Garry1p
1990 Holiday Rambler Aluma Lite XL
454 on P-30 Chassis
1999 Jeep Cherokee sport
bad. I'm about to give up and call Cummins.
Driveline: 454 dual fuel gasoline or propane
Miles: 45,000
Year: The coach is an 83; it happened in 2004
Break Down Description: A seven-year-old right rear inner tire blew on I-15 at 55 mph, 30 miles from home.
Symptoms: Whap-whap-whap of the tread destroying the wheel-well area of the RV.
Effect: No loss of control; had to pull over.
Cause: I was a newbie at class-A RVs, and had no clue about retiring tires that were older than 6 years. The tires were old Michelin Xs, made in 1997, with a good deal of tread but also a good deal of checkering and cracks. The tread separated and lashed out with every revolution of the wheel.
Outcome: The flapping tire chopped off the end of the tailpipe, severed the filler hose to the gas tank and ripped the gas cap assembly off the side of the RV. It cut a bundle of wires going to running lights and cut the fuel line to the generator.
Then it ripped out the metal underfloor, the rigid foam insulation above it and pushed up a section of plywood floor about 3 inches into the coach (it was in a storage area). In the storage area I had two tool boxes, one plastic which now is full of cracks, and the other metal which now has an inward dent in the bottom.
The vibration caused existing cracks in the very old rubber fuel line to the engine to begin to leak. But I didnt notice that until we got home and wondered why gas drizzled off the frame whenever the engine was running.
My undercarriage inspection also revealed a broken shock mount bolt on the rear, opposite the damage. Dont know how long thatd been like that.
Being a do-it-yourselfer (you have to be with a 25 year old RV) I have since repaired the damage; I replaced the filler hose and exhaust tip, dropped the gas tank and replaced all the rubber lines, repaired the shock mount bolt, salvaged a gas cap assembly from an old Chevy Suburban, and fixed the floor and insulation of the RV.
And I got six brand new tires.
-Craig & Joan and kids
1983 Pace Arrow 29'
and two Honda ATV's
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): Cat C9 (400HP), Allison 3000
Miles: 4,339
Year: November 22, 2006
Break Down Description: Coolant hose from engine to trans cooler chafed through, causing loss of all engine coolant
Symptoms: Engine warning, then engine shutdown lamp.
Effect:Unable to drive vehicle further (the electronic controls really work)
Cause:Chafed hose allowed all engine coolant to be pumped out of the cooling system.
Outcome: Warranty repair. Coach was towed to local CAT dealer where the hose was replaced, the tranny cooler mounting bracked was ground for clearance, and a broken radiator mount was replaced.
Sam
2009 Haulmark 282DS, Freighliner M2
2013 Toyota URJ200
2004 Trailer World trailer
or
2011 CanAm Spyder RT-S in a Horton Hauler trailer
States visited in current rig (Updated July 2013)
Driveline (Engine, Transmission)
AT 300hp, Allison 3000MHMiles: 17000
Year:2005
Break Down Description: Radiator blew, lost all coolant,
Symptoms: Low Coolant light came on, then Engine Protect light which shut the engine off.
Effect: Disabled
Cause: Hole in radiator in upper right (looking from the rear)
Outcome: Replace CAC & Radiator. Took a week and $3800.
This happened on I15, south of ID Falls, after driving for 2 hours in the morning. It took over 4 hours to get the tow truck out, and this was only after 3 calls from the ISP. I had it repaired in ID Falls by Tranes Diesel Service, a F/L shop. They decided it was a small rock (pea sized) which blew through the CAC and lodged in the radiator, and gradually wore a hole in the cross channel. My insurance, Farm Bureau, will pay for the replacement as Collision coverage. Coach Net decided since it was a Road Hazard, not a breakdown, they would NOT pay for the tow. $3800 was the full bill. IMHO, Freightliner is fully responsible for their non protection of the radiator, and the picking of debris up from the road bed.
ron
We were coming north on I-75 on Sunday 04-08-07 and just north of the London exit I lost power steering ( what a shocker it will wake you up real quick)we were in a construction zone. I then notice my temp climbing really fast. I knew then that I had lost my pump or a valve got it off the road and let it cool down and disconnected the tow car and went back to London to get AW-32 Fluid and oil rings before I dropped the priority valve. Unfortunately that was not the problem it was the pump. So what I did was had the wife take the car and her Mother and four of the kids on to Dayton and the oldest boy stayed with me. I was going to have a wrecker pick it up and have it towed home. But when talking to my Dad in Louisville he came up with a real good idea to get me home with it. I could drive with out the power steering just not without the cooling fan. He left Louisville and drove across KY. and picked up two box fans to set in front of the radiator to blow air across them. We tied the electrical cords to a plug and ran the generator to get them to work. With it being a side radiator job the area between the door and the intercooler was large enough to sit the fans and close the door. Had it been a rear radiator I would have been okay because the fan is attached to the engine, but anyway. They could not keep up with heat of the engine but it was a cool night and it would let me drive about 40 -60 miles at a time before I needed to pull over and let it idle down and go again. He followed me all the way to Dayton to make sure it got home. Thanks again Dad!!!!!!! I have now ordered the pump and should be back in commission by the weekend.
Doug.
400HP Cat, 3000HD Allison 6 spd
5400 miles
2006 model year
Description of Symptoms and Effect: On the way down I-5 to Monaco's service center to have the windshield replaced under warranty, the Check Engine and Engine Warning lamps come on. I pull over and idle down. They go out. I go another half mile, they come on again. I pull over and they go out. I scratch my head, and drive another half mile, whereupon the lamps come on again, and I pull into a proximal Rest Area and shut down. I call Monaco's Coach Net support and the helpful tech suggests low coolant, i.e. - down below the expansion tank's sensor. How about NO coolant. An inspection shows an empty expansion tank and a jagged crack in the hose under it. The next morning Coach Net has me towed to Monaco's Service Center.
Cause: Techs say the radiator hose was cracked in 5 places along its 6 foot length, and looked old. They surmise that the original hose was probably switched out by dealer to quick repair another coach, and replaced by a hose from an older rig instead of waiting for a new hose.
Outcome: Monaco ordered and installed a new (actually upgraded) hose, and the tech reconfigured the straps that hold it so that hose and others cannot rub against chassis frame members as he noticed the factory had arranged them.
If only Monaco's factory was as efficient as their Service Centers.
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): 350 C7, Alison
Miles: 4,000
Year: 2007 (less than 5 months old)
Break Down Description:
Symptoms: bottom of pass slide grinding across tile floor
Effect: can barely open slide
Cause: came from factory like this
Outcome: still being worked on
Symptom: Engine check light and protect light came on
Effect: engine shut down
Cause: Caterpillar does not know
Outcome: Cat told me to shut off engine and restart and OK to drive
Symptom: Extremely loud brake squeal on right front
Effect: pulls to right
Cause: out of round brake drum and.....
Outcome: Freightliner still does not have an answer
Symptom: Bunched up fabric covering over driver's slide out
Effect: slide will not retract fully
Cause: improper installation at tiffin factory
Outcome: still in shop
Symptom: Water leak behind connection panel
Effect: fills bay with water
Cause: improper installation of hoses at tiffin factory
Outcome: still in the shop
I won't bore you with the smaller problems. Thanks for the forum.
I totally agree with your comment about doing a list of the various components that can frequently break down. I would love to see that done. On our last trip to Fla. we broke a drive axle on rv..was stranded for almost three weeks. Of course there was no way to know axle was going to break. I will be looking to see if your idea develops, and I certainly will do a post of my problem areas.
Robie
How old was it? The 5 to 7 year rule applies to spare tires also.
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): 8.3 Cummins NON ELECTRONIC, MD 3060 Allison 6 speed
Miles: 104K
Year: 1994
Break Down Description: (You can add any description of the problem here that you think would help others in understanding the situation and problem.)
Symptoms: Took for first quick trip before big trip this weekend and made a stop and now Transmission won't shift after start-up
Effect
Cause: appears to be ECU but will post update tomorrow
Outcome: wasn't the ECU but a loose wire in the plug in the back of ECU, added jump wires to force loop closed in future if it happens again. Saved a costly repair bill
UPDATE: WASN'T LOOSE WIRE BUT A BAD ZERO THOTTLE SENSOR SWITCH AND CABLE ON THE NON ELECTRIC CUMMINS ENGINE, THIS FED WRONG INFO TO THE VIM WHICH INTURN FED THE ECU. PULLED PLUG OFF SENSOR TO LIMP HOME AND WILL CHANGE SENSOR AND CABLE ASAP
* This post was last edited 06/05/07 10:13am by ronnie48 *
Good luck tomorrow. Allison people know their stuff and should expedite a fix, but it likely will cost ya a bit. We'll look for your Outcome report. And thanks for following Badeye's reporting parameters in his Breakdowns thread; not everyone does.
RV particulars: Tiffin Phaeton
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): 350 C7, Alison
Miles: 4,000
Year: 2007 (less than 5 months old)
Break Down Description:
Symptoms: bottom of pass slide grinding across tile floor
Effect: can barely open slide
Cause: came from factory like this
Outcome: still being worked on
Result: missing 3 bolts that secured cabinet to frame. Frame was not square.
Symptom: Engine check light and protect light came on
Effect: engine shut down
Cause: Caterpillar does not know
Outcome: Cat told me to shut off engine and restart and OK to drive
Result: Injection accuation error. Cat said there was nothing they could do about it.
Symptom: Extremely loud brake squeal on right front
Effect: pulls to right
Cause: out of round brake drum and.....
Outcome: Freightliner still does not have an answer
Freightliner denied any problem. Said it was Tiffin's transport driver, then they said it was because Tiffin didn't align coach, then they said it was in spec so they weren't going to do anything to fix it. Funny thing, there was another 2007 Phaeton at the Freightliner dealer at the time my coach was there with the same problem.
Symptom: Bunched up fabric covering over driver's slide out
Effect: slide will not retract fully
Cause: improper installation at tiffin factory
Outcome: still in shop
Result: Slide topper was not put on straight at the factory.
Symptom: Water leak behind connection panel
Effect: fills bay with water
Cause: improper installation of hoses at tiffin factory
Outcome: still in the shop
Result: missing clamp
I won't bore you with the smaller problems. Thanks for the forum.
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): 190HP Cummins 5.9L, 4spd Allison AT542
Miles: 52,000
Year: 1992
Break Down Description: Driving 70mph up I-65 in south Alabama, notice the temp guage start rising, then raises real fast past the red. Then the coolant light came on. Shut the engine off, drifted to the shoulder. Waited 30 minutes for it to cool, drove it a 10th of a mile, turned off, waited another 30... and so forth. Eventually I made it to an exit and parked it in a Shell station parking lot.
Symptoms: Coolant light on, Engine overheated (instantly i might add), gallons of collant all over the roadway
Effect: Engine overheats hotter than the core of a nuclear reactor and quick.
Cause: broken pulley bearing on water pump. (bad water pump)
Outcome: put on a new water pump in a gas station parking lot and hit the road!
Always carry your tool box!!!
350 chev. auto trans
Trans puked 40 miles east of Butte MT
4 days in Butte, the longest month of my trip.
Never saw a town roll up the sidewalks before.
arts@crcom.net
Note: Due to invalid formatting, all formatting has been ignored.
Engine: 190HP, 5.9L, 6BT5.9
Tranni: Allison 4 speed
135,000 miles
Description of symptoms: Began hearing a strange noise from the rear of the coach that got louder then the radio. Pulled over at a rest stop and put my hand on each hubcap. Found a hot one on the drivers side rear of the coach. Also smelled something strange near that wheel. Allowed wheel to cool then slowly (under 45MPH) drove 20 miles to where I could deal with the problem, made a few calls and got into a shop near my home town.
Problem: The left rear bearing failed, probably caused by hitting a speed bump in Mexico the month before at 55MPH. The spindle had cracked and a leak of differential oil had ruined the brake pad.
Solution: The bad spindle had to be sawed off, a new one machined and then welded in place and further machined with a neat milling machine that hangs right on the axle & spindle assembly ($1300 just for that job). Replaced bearings on both sides (rear). Replaced brake pads both sides (rear).
Cost: $2500
thanks
sharon
Engine: 190HP, 5.9L, 6BT5.9
Tranni: Allison 4 speed
135,000 miles
Description of symptoms: On a cool day and during a short drive, noticed engine temp was up near the red zone on the gage. Since it didn't appear to be heading for the red, drove a couple more miles and parked.
Problem: The belt had broken.
Solution: Called a mobile service company and they replaced belt.
65000
1999
moving along at 60+ engine died, would not restart
MH was towed to Amarillo,Texas (130 miles)
Replaced fuel pressure regulator, 8 fuel injectors, 8 Spark Plugs, Distributor cap and Rotor. $3400
Fuel presssure was only 20lbs and 4 injectors were leaking. Cap and rotor just needed new ones.
Now it runs!!
Mac USAF retired
2001 Seaview 32 ft model 8311
Ford f53
2007 HHR
Brake buddy
Falcon2 Towbar
Driving a Rexhall Rolls Air on a Spartan chassis, Cummins 6CTA8.3 engine. As I was checking the coach prior to pulling out on a Friday morning I noticed an oily film on the ground next to the left front tire. It seemed that the oil in that hub was a little low so I removed the red plug to check. When I reinserted the plug the plastic window broke and pushed into the hub cavity, dumping the hub oil.
I called Good Sam ERS, who contacted Newport Diesel, who called us back. Newport Diesel said it would be Monday before they could obtain and install a new hub seal. However, one of their guys showed up in the early afternoon and removed the hub cap to take it back to the shop where they would replace the plastic window. Late that same afternoon another guy returned with the rebuilt hub cap and we were ready to go by 5 pm. We paid for labor and parts; Good Sam ERS paid for the service calls.
2005 Honda Gold Wing
2010 Dodge Ram 3500 QC Cummins
2013 Cedar Creek Silverback 35FL
Moral of the story. Insist that you be towed to a shop with certified and competent diesel mechanics.
Driving at 60mph on I75 15 miles north of Tampa with extremely heavy traffic, lost all power steering,engine light illuminated and an almost immediate engine overheat occurred. Luckily we were traveling in the right lane and were able to safely bring the coach to a stop. Called Workhorse, they sent one of those huge tow vehicles and within two hours had been towed to a Workhorse Service Center. The serpintine belt had broke with only 8300 miles, cause was unknown.
Workhorse did a great job getting to us as fast as they did and took care of everything under the warrenty with no questions asked and no outlay of cash needed on my part at any time.
Things happen real fast when that belt breaks. Steering that monster without power steering takes a huge amount of effort. If we had been in the center or left lane we could have had real problems getting off the road safely considering how heavy the traffic was.
Note: Due to invalid formatting, all formatting has been ignored.
Had a similar problem last year with my 1994 P30 Itasca. The speedometer system is electronic. Problem started when the speedometer was zooming up to 90mph+ while doing about 50mph. Engine idled down when this happened, but recovered when I slowed to below 47. Eventually the speedometer was always showing double the speed and the odometer was recording double mileage constantly. Could not exceed 47 mph. Talked to a speedometer shop, and they wanted to start with the control head, then work backwards. Nuts, WOuld have cost megabucks. So, I started with the speed sensors on the tranni. Replaced both the speed sensor and the ABS sensor. No change, then after researching, found the cause was a small elecronic board under the dash. It's the buffer board, the electronic equivalent of gears in mechanical speedometer system. Removed, and tracked down a replacement through Delco. Cost, $70. Installed, and now works perfect, both speedometer and odometer.
dajablock@lowcountry.com
David Blocker 843-835-2173
Mileage: 34,000
Year: 2000
Getting ready for trip from NC to Fla. Two days prior had M3 (full service) on chassis. Loaded and ready to go. Engine turned over but would not start. Checked around coach smelled diesel fuel. Looked under engine and found fuel water seperator leaking. Tightened it , but engine still would not start. I called Cummins and talked to a technician. He said there was probably air in the fuel lines. He talked me through switching the ignition switch on and off at intervals to "fool" the fuel pump into thinking that the engine had started. It worked much to my amazement.
On my way from NC to rally at San Antonio, Tx. Just outside Austin, Tx
yellow check engine light came on. I immediatly pulled over and went around coach and could not find anything wrong. All gauges working properly, nothing unusual around the engine compartment. Again I called Cummins and talked to a technician. He advised that if everything was working normally that it was probably something minor. He recommended I go to a Cummins dealer in San Antonio after the rally. I did, and they found a wire broken at the intake heater. A quick fix.
Even though these were not on the road breakdowns, when something happens its good to know that someone has the knowledge to help you.
2005 Newmar 34' Kountry Star, 8.1L W22, Blue Ox 10K, Honda Pilot, Bijon Shitzu (Sassy) dash dog, Two teenage boys..we get around ! Nine Provinces, Two Territories, 47 States, Northern Mexico... so far..
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): Workhorse W22
Miles: Year: 2004
Break Down Description: Brakes sticking.
Symptoms: Apparent loss of power.
Effect: Stranded on one ocassion in southern Kentucky, had to tow RV 250 miles to Knoxville, TN.
Cause: Replaced front rotors.
Outcome: Initially no cost for the first time this happened.
Brakes stuck again, 6 months out of warranty. That is when it REALLY COST ME. Workhorse said tough luck, so after 4 new rotors, calipers, wheel sensors, and other misc stuff, it cost me $4200 out of pocket.
The dealer told me the original calipers were junk and the pistons had seezed up in the bore, causing this issue. They see this very frequently. They told me Workhorse knows it, but because it was out of warranty they would not stand behind it. Pin slides were well greased (which is what Workhorse requires annually).
I loved Workhorse prior to this. Now I will never own another Workhorse chassis, and I will make sure everyone I have the opportunity to speak with knows of my Workhorse experience. I paid the bill and imediately traded the otherwise great coach in for a deisel pusher on a Freightliner chassis.
RV particulars: 2002 Winnebago Adventurer 32V Workhorse W-20 chassis
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): Chevy 8.1L, Allison 1000
Miles: 20,155
Year: 2002
Break Down Description: (You can add any description of the problem here that you think would help others in understanding the situation and problem.)
Symptoms: RV began pulling to the right. We could smell what we thought was a burning electrical odor. When the brakes were applied, the MH pulled sharply to the left
Effect: We pulled off of the road at the earliest opportunity and called our road service (Coach-net) We advised not to drive further. (We were told later, that a wheel fire has resulted from similar incidence.)
Cause: Poorly designed brakes system. This Bosch ZOTS system, manufactured prior to October 2001, was used by many MH chassis manufacturers. I understand that an International chassis with this system was used on some school buses.
Outcome: Although only the brakes on one wheel locked up, the calipers, slides, and pads were replaced on all wheels. New pin kits were used. The right-front rotor was replaced.
Here is a link to a discussion of a National Highway Transportation Safety Administration investigation of these brakes.
Workhorse brake problems and NHSTA
Tom
Allison 4 Spd
Friday:
ISB Overheated: Temps rose. High temp light on. Check engine light on. Power loss. Shut down in parking lot. Coolant blew, along with soft plug and overflow tank.
Conclusion: Water pump belt broke. Belt replaced. Added coolant, new overflow resevoir, added coolant, brought to temp. Temp stable.
Saturday:
Same symptons. Pulled onto scenic pull out.
Conclusion: Water pump probably failed (impeller?)
Will report on the rest as known.
Moral: Always carry spares belts!
Conclusion:: Water pump gone. Replaced along with thermostat.
* This post was edited 09/28/07 08:31pm by threedogtrip *
Reality is that which, when you stop believing in it, doesn't go away.
--- Philip K. Dick
1999 Gulfstream Sunvoyager
(Our Gulfstream Home Site)
2006 Jeep Wranger
Doberlady
German Shedder Dog
Rescued Gentleman (In Spirit)
We have a Ford V10. We were loosing power when it rained. The first time was about 3 years ago when we were near Denver going up a hill and hit a downpour. The next time was last fall when we left NH heading for work in FL. It was raining, going up a hill when we lost power. We struggled along staying on flat roads as much as possible since the problem did not show itself then. After spending the night in a parking lot and running out of flat road, calling 'mechanics' in the FMCA membership book, we finally called Camping World back in Wilsonville, OR. Art spoke with the guy we dealt with there all the time and it came up with the problem which we had forgotten about.
Ford knows there is this design problem with their big engine: water sprays up off the road into the air filter. Mechanics even recommend you build a 'box' under it to help prevent this but we have not figured out how to do it.
When Art opened the air filter, sure enough the filter was full of water. He dumped it out, shook water out of the filter as best he could, then we were able to go. We made it from MA down to VA to my brothers praying for no more rain. When we were going thru Hartford, CA it was raining. Once we got thru town we found a shopping mall where we spent the night. The next day we made it to VA where Art bought a new filter and threw the wet one away.
This sounds like your problem. We try to avoid driving in rain, especially heavy rain although regular rain can cause the problem too.
Good luck
Would like to know if anyone else has had a Fuel Problem with CAT?
2004 38N Bounder DP
2004 Honda CRV toad
M&G Braking System
They put a new injection pump and fuel pump on in LA and worked on it again in Phoenix and put another new fuel pump on in Albuquerque, NM and it has been great since CAT replaced the fuel pump the second time.
We were towed three times at a very high cost. Fortunetly we had insurance and Freightliner and CAT did the repairs under warrant and paid to have it towed one time.
On our unit it has no primer pump. If your has a primer pump you may start it that way.
I would bet on an electrical problem to the solenoid or the fuel pump. Like an exposed wire grounding out.
We lost 10 days and paid our dues waiting in the dealerships. They were very helpful but really had a serious problem getting it fixed.
The story is a lot longer than this, but this is the general situation. Why the original pump went out and then the new one they replaced it with also went out is a mystery to me.
Freightliner Chassis folks and the CAT Folks were very helpful and repaired the 2004 Fleetwood Discovery under the Warranty.
I would highly recommend that you folks who own Motor Homes be sure to have towing insurance.
This is the first time we have been towed since 1964. It definitely was a new experience for us.
Clyde & Gloria Smith
2004 Fleetwood Discovery 39s
Freightliner Chassis
CAT 330
folks were very helpful. The repairs were done under the warranty.
250 8.3 Cummins
Allison Trans.
Anyone have any problems with diesel fuel supply line leaks?
97 Monaco Dynasty 40' Pusher
Driveline 350 Cummins - Allison 3000 World Transmission - Kingcruise throttle and cruise control
Miles: 36,000
Year: 1997
Break Down Description: Throttle would not work - intermittent problem. Would come and go without any indication of why.
Symptoms: Transmission ECU display showed "service" under Mode indicator light. Would shift into D and R, but no throttle.
Effect: Stuck - could not move.
Cause: Loose or dirty connection in 12v hot and/or ground wire between cruise control computer and coach 12v supply/chassis.
Outcome: Unplugged all electrical connectors to cruise unit and throttle position switch; cleaned with spray electrical contact cleaner and reconnected several times.
Helpful resource: King cruise web site. SEE my other post on the Tech forum for details for thi smust have free publication for troubleshooting the King system. Feel free to contact me if you have same problem. I fixed it in 5 minutes with the guide's help.
Then the following year with the same couple of friends going to Mt. Rushmore when we were pulling into Custer, SD his Itasca decided it didn't like the 100 degree temperatures and quit running. We unhooked our Jeep and pulled it to a wide spot in the road. We fired up our generator and A/C and let everyone hang out is our coach while we worked on his. Found the ignition coil was going south on him. It had too high resistance. I packed some ice around it turned the hair dryer on cool and cooled it down enough to bring the resistance down enough to go the next 10 miles to the campground we were staying at. When we got camp set up we got a new coil and all was well until three days later going into Sheridan, Wy when his motorhome started acting up again. This time as we were coming off the freeway about 300 yards from the KOA entrance. Again unhooked the Jeep and towed him into the campground. Found a bad fuel pump so the next morning we proceeded to drop the fuel tank and change out the fuel pump with the updated Ford unit. The rest of the trip was uneventful and when we returned home he put it up for sale. He was done with RVing. I tried to tell him that this is part of it but I don't think he believed me.
Last February with our new coach we were about 1/2 mile from home just leaving for a weekend shakedown run with the new coach and it died. We coasted to the side of the road and started to troubleshoot. After about an hour and a half of diagnosing and testing I found the wire that goes to the front television lockout was shorted and kept tripping the circuit breaker for the main power soleniod. I unhooked it and off we went. By this time it was pitch black outside and I was frozen, my wife was sitting in the nice warm coach reading a magazine and I asked her if she still wanted to go and she said hell yes we are on vacation(even though I could have thrown a rock and hit our house). So off we went and had an enjoyable weekend. I guess you take the good with the bad. Still wouldn't give up my RV. Mike.
2003 Monaco Dynasty/ 26' Haulmark Edge trailer
2011 Jeep Unlimited Rubicon
"...Chassis battery's runs down.
Outcome: Replace battery's (less than a year old, Interstate batterys, would not hold a charge.)"
Batteries less than a year old not holding a charge? That's a symptom, not a cause, even if it caused something else in turn. You'll be doing this in about a year (or less) again, unless you can isolate & correct what causes it.
I stopped buying interstate batteries because they die within a year.
Want a good RV battery? look into Optima.
1999 Coachman Mirada 34 ft.V10-F53 chassis
12ft.LR slide-2 gp31 AGM 12V @220AH
"...Chassis battery's runs down.
Outcome: Replace battery's (less than a year old, Interstate batterys, would not hold a charge.)"
Batteries less than a year old not holding a charge? That's a symptom, not a cause, even if it caused something else in turn. You'll be doing this in about a year (or less) again, unless you can isolate & correct what causes it.
I stopped buying interstate batteries because they die within a year.
Want a good RV battery? look into Optima.
If you are killing Interstate batteries in a year then something is incredibly diffrerent with your setup or usage/procedures. The variables here are many.
I've used almost every type of Optima battery in many different settings and can tell you that Optima batteries are not a magic pill, either. They sound good and work well in high vibrational situations but I think that for RVing are an over-kill. Wet-cell batteries--used and maintained properly--will last as long as AGM batteries and vise-versa.
On the other hand, due to your habits you may be drawing-down the Interstate battery too much and killing it so an AGM battery, more forgiving in this area, may be for you especially if your habits/usage/procedures do not change.
Based on your situation you probably didn't have enough wet-cell battery capacity to begin with. And sometimes its impractical to try to add additional cells.
RV particulars: 2006 Kountry Star
Driveline (Engine, Transmission)
Miles: 3,000 +/-
Year:2007-break in trip, Oregon to Wis.
Break Down Description: Back of the coach covered with oil spray
Symptoms
Effect: Whoa-what do we do now?
Cause: Dip stick tube laid against turbo exhaust and melted through.
Outcome: Towed 50 miles, temporary repair by the great crew at Ed's Truck Sales and Service in Fort Pierre, South Dakota. Very reasonable charge as we paid it ourselves rather than wait for warranty authorization-we were already running late.
Later a new dip stick tube.
Thanks for getting this started.
Lifted bed what a mess fuel everywhere...Had the engine turned over while I looked ...Found the metal fuel line snapped completely off at the banjo fitting on the engine it self..
Drove to Greensborough in my toad and picked up a new fuel line..The new one has a damper installed in the middle to prevent the line from breaking...5.9 Cummins...1996 Endeavor....40,000 miles
If you have one of these just change it...I had read about the problem and determined it was older coaches than mine having this problem...I inspected mine and thought no way this line could break it was mounted in there solid....Wrong....If you do not have one with a break in the line where a damper is installed...better replace the line or at least carry a new updated one....
just_loafin
Date of breakdown: 10/29/07
We were driving east on I 10 between Phoenix and Tuscon when we heard a loud pop coming from the rear of the coach. Smoke was pouring out of the rear; the stop engine light came on and a warning buzzer sounded. We stopped without incident (fortunately). Oil was splattered all over the rear of the coach and the entire toad.
We had a blown rod.
Our engine S/N was within the recall sequence.
Two months earlier we had the recall performed (pressure sensor istalled in valve area which was to trigger an alarm after which engine shutdown was required to prevent engine damage. The alarm and the engine failure occurred at the same time.
Norm FNorm F
Driveline (Engine, Transmission)
ummins DP 350HP, Allison 3000Miles:64,000
Year:2004
Break Down Description: (You can add any description of the problem here that you think would help others in understanding the situation and problem.)
Symptoms: 1. Squeeking noise from engine compartment 2.- Low Collant Level Alarm 3. Overheat Alarm and temp gauge reaching 230 degrees
Effect
ngine OverheatCause
erpentine belt broke as a result of belt tensioner lockup. Outcome:
Good service from Coach-Net tow (2 hours after call)
Excellent service from Empire Truck Service in Gulfport, MS. Had tensioner in stock and got belt locally. Fixed same day!!!!!
Cost $139.50 labor; $172.00 parts.
Only problem - tower did not want to reinstall driveline as his wenches were failing so had to pay truck service but Coach-Net says they will reimburse.
Lesson learned -- I should not have left CG after noting squeeking noise after starting engine. Got stranded 400 miles from base.
Joe
Revival
2010 Four Winds Chateau
KE5LU
After some conversation with Diesel-Lover and others on this forum I thought I would try to start a thread concerning breakdowns on the road. We try to prevent this by good maintenance and driving reasonably but it can still happen. As I observed in a previous post, on a roughly 350 mile northbound drive on I-75 I saw 4 class A MH broken down. All were southbound.
If we should have a breakdown and would post the following information on this thread it could be a resource and reminder for others.
RV particulars:
Driveline (Engine, Transmission):
Miles:
Year:
Break Down Description: (You can add any description of the problem here that you think would help others in understanding the situation and problem.)
Symptoms:
Effect:
Cause:
Outcome:
This is the type of information that is recorded in the aircraft industry and other maintenance activities to track failure trends. It will take a while before we see a lot of value in this. If it continues for a time and sufficient data is available, I will analyze the data and put it into a form that I can send by email to any interested parties. I would suspect that an initial report could be done in about three months or when we have about 100 to 150 cases.
What do you think?
Driveline (cummins 3oo isb):
Miles:1400,15000,18000
Year:2003 & 2004
Break Down Description: no power , fuel dash light 3 separate times
Symptoms:no power
Effect
ax speed 30mphCause:low fuel pressure light
Outcom;removed several sensors on fuel sensor, finally cut wires on fuel filter & reprogram engine software.
Driveline330hp cummins-allison
Year:2006
Break Down Description:NO start @15k,18k &20K intermittently
Symptoms:no start intermittently
Effect
estart on house batterys problem then goes away sometimes to return later.Cause
OOR engine groundOutcome
Ngine GROUND cleaned and and tighted. Impossiple to see from outside.
I think you idea has lots of merit. I also suggest you post it on the Escapees Forum. In my opinion this the most read and most active forum on the www.
Good luck
I picked up the coach and proceeded to New Orleans, our next destination. I noticed the fresh water tank was empty and stopped at a rest stop and started to fill the tank to 1/2 full as I usually do to help with road side emergencies.
When I turned on the water, water sprayed from under and in the coach from every where. They had let the system freeze and destroyed the water piping in most of the coach.
So far I have not received a "sorry" or a apology from anyone at RV Sales and Service.
BEWARE!! of their "Service"
enuf said!!
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): Ford 460 --Deere chassis
Miles: 29K
Year:1988
Break Down Description: Going up a hill engine began to backfire, then sputter, then died. Once the engine died, could not get any power to restart.
Symptoms: On the surface it appeared the battery was dead, nothing at all happened when you turned the ignition, not even with the auxiliary start.
Effect: A perfect storm of electrical problems and fuel delivery problems. Also using the aux start ran our house batteries down, and we blew a fuse in the converter. Don't know if that was part of the same issues, or a coincidence.
Cause: A) the gaskets on the fuel filters did not fit. Had been replaced the day before our trip, had not seated correctly, and were sucking air into the fuel line instead of fuel.
B) loose wire powering the fuel pump... bad connection that was shorting out.
Outcome: replaced gaskets, re-spliced wire and we appear to be running OK. Also put on new spark plugs and wires just for good measure. (it was still running with the originals)
* This post was edited 01/20/08 10:14am by corgi-traveler *
Samantha (the poster)
Tim, spouse and driver of the Corgi-Bus
Buddy, Diva, and Pippin - Pembroke Welsh Corgis
One Beautiful Wife
Two Great Dogs
2007 Fleetwood Revolution 40 LE
Someday Has Come....
COMMON SENSE, NEVER LEAVE HOME W/O IT !
45K miles
325 Cummins/Allison
While traveling I-55 in MS heading toward Memphis, I noticed a loss of power condition which seemed to come-and-go. Assuming fuel filter problems, I stopped in a rest area and after a diesel bath, I was back on the road. The intermittent problem continued. When we pulled in to a campground for the night, the engine would not cut off (I had previously noticed a short, 1-second delay when switching the key off but thought it was my imagination). Turned out that the fuel shutoff solenoid bracket had broken and the solenoid had finally dislodged. It was hanging by the wiring and had shorted internally. We had to raise the bed to stop the engine for the rest of the trip and went through four more of the $397 solenoids before I traced the problem to a relay whose contacts were sticking closed. (BTW: A "certified" Cummins repair facility did the replacements and a mechanically-challenged owner was finally fed up enough to solve the real problem.)
My advise is to know where your shutoff is located on whatever diesel engine you have. I can testify that a cardboard box over the air intake on a turbo charged Cummins is NOT the way to shut the engine down. :-)
Nawth AlaBamma
PMiles:N/A
Year:N/A
Break Down Description: Bought 7yr old dp from boat dealer as is. It had sat at FL marina for 2 yrs. Fuel gauge read empty so the sales man got a jerry can from his shop and I got ten gals of diesel from the marina. Drained the fuel/water sep iaw coach label. motor would no longer run. Called mech and he tried to help over phone but was not able to get out for 2 days, mfgr also very helpful. Back to trouble shooting 101. "When something doesn't work- what was the last thing I touched."
Symptoms
ngine would not start. Effect: Learned how fuel system works.
Cause:Air getting into lines at water sep drain. felt tightened but was previously cross threaded and very hard to turn.
Outcome:New water sep filter and plastic bowl when I got it home.
The fool learns from his own mistakes.
It is the wise man who learns from the mistakes of others.
As I start out, the transmission will shift, it seems very hard, from 1st to 2nd and on up to 4th gear. By hard, I mean the Rpm's go higher then when it shifts normal. The RPM goes all the way up to 2100 or sometimes 2200 RPM before shifting. Then when it gets into 4th gear it will not go any higher, I have tried up hills, down hills, load, no load, and it will not shift any higher. I also know it is not going to shift because the display number changes to "4" and will not change until slowing down, at 15 miles per HR, it will change back to 6. When it shifts correctly, the display always shows "6" and does not change. When shifting correctly, it will shift at about 1500 to 1600 Rpm's.
To get it to shift correctly, I have discovered that if I stop, shut the engine off, wait a few seconds and restart, it will shift correctly. I have taken the motorhome to a Certified Allison transmission Dealer and a Motorhome Certified Dealer. They have each charged me a lot of money and have not fixed the problem. To me it is like rebooting a computer and everything works fine. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Doane
1. Got our rig in June 2006, used from a dealer, who checked and changed all fluids fresh, oil, coolant, etc., as part of a pre-delivery Good Sam Used RV Dealer Checklist.
2. Made 4-5 short trips.
3. Was headed for Laughlin, NV, on I-40, east out of Barstow. Climbing the grade to the Ludlow turnoff we started overheating, and so pulled off the road at that exit. Called Good Sam Roadside Assistance and were advised to let engine cool down 45min-1hour, then we'd be able to get back on the road.
4. Got about 1.5 miles East the I-40, and were stuck on the side of I-40 from 4:30pm, until 7:30am the next morning before a flatbed trailer tow arrived.
4.a. Good Sam couldn't locate us on the computer when we called, even using GPS Co-ordinates. (This was their Emergency Roadside Assistance) Finally got located with I-40 and name of the road for the Ludlow exit.
Did I mention that I was driving, my partner was co-pilot (a wheelchair user who had to be carried from his seat to the bed/bathroom and in/out of the rig, a friend of ours was going with us, and we were taking my 86 year-old grandmother and her 79 year old friend (who uses a walker) to the Avi, and that we had our two dogs with us as well?
5. Won't go into what this tow driver's shop told us...but if you ever break down near Bartow, CA, PAY TO HAVE YOUR RIG TOWED TO EITHER NEEDLES OR BACK TO CALIFORNIA! It cost us $900 to tow back to Orange County, but the repair savings was $13K, and 9 weeks. (Cost us $5K and 3 weeks)
6. Our tech in Orange County found so much rust in the radiator and coolant that he said, "could not be accounted for by the amount of time you've owned the rig. If the coolant had been changed, this water would be yellowish-green, it's bright orange." We told him to replace the radiator, hoses and engine.
7. He replaced the engine and hoses, but not the radiator. Our next trip to SFO pointed that out to us...but we didn't count it against him--he had still saved us a bundle. So we replaced the radiator at the Radiator Dr. in San Jose. This new one is 4x thicker than the old stock radiator.
While our tech replaced the engine we also had him do the interior carpet--we picked out from a friend in the wholesaling business, and after all was done we got 6 new tires.
Total cost of engine, radiator work, carpet & tires? $12K. A lot less than just the engine at that shafter in Barstow.
So:
Yr.: 2000
Make: Winnebago
Model: Adventurer 32V, 33.33'
Chassis: Workhorse P32
Drive: 7.1L (if I recall the manual facts), allison 5 spd a/t.
Replacement engine: Jasper
Symptoms: Overheat.
Effect: Engine stall.
Cause: Radiator fluids not changed by dealer prior to delivery, overheat caused valves to stick-losing compression.
Outcome: Replaced engine, replaced radiator.
Current Operation: Engine developed sticky lifter at 1,000 miles of use, being replaced under warranty at this time (Jan., '08).
RV'ing...whether you make money at it or not, it sure is interesting!
* This post was edited 01/29/08 01:03am by kjames90755 *
2008 Itasca Meridian 37H, All. 3000MH (6-auto), Freightliner XC Chass., Cummins 6.7L Turbo, (Sweet! Delivery 03/12/08). Tow: '07 Dodge Gr. Caravan, Me, Him; Sugarbear, Apr. Toy Poodle; Pepe, Blk Toy Poodle; Hero, fat Siam.-mix polydactyl cat/Alarm Clock.
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): Cummings 400hp,
Miles: 18,360
Year: 2006
Break Down Description: Failure of front leveling jack seal.
Symptoms: Loss of hyd. oil
Effect: No leveling ability
Cause: Large gouge in jack piston, which damaged seal over time. The 1st owner had a similar failure when the coach was new and fixed under the warranty coverage.
Outcome: Factory is replacing the jack with a new unit as it is still has warranty coverage.
Update:Power Gear sent a "new" jack which was installed. When the QC inspector powered on the levelers the new jack promptly blew a seal. Now I am scheduled to return late in April to have another "new" jack installed. Lazydays has been great in the way they treat me. I just wish Power Gear would produce a fully functional product.
* This post was edited 03/31/08 07:07am by ch47pachyderm *
Carl
gettinright wrote "What company made the Jacks?" in reply to msg from ch47pachydrem's msg: Posted: 02/05/08 03:48pm
RV particulars: Holiday Rambler Endevor
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): Cummings 400hp,
Miles: 18,360
Year: 2006
Break Down Description: Failure of front leveling jack seal.
Symptoms: Loss of hyd. oil
Effect: No leveling ability
Cause: Large gouge in jack piston, which damaged seal over time. The 1st owner had a similar failure when the coach was new and fixed under the warranty coverage.
Outcome: Factory is replacing the jack with a new unit as it is still has warranty coverage.
This coach had only 22,000 miles on a Workhorse 22 chassis. Searches on this and other forums show this to be a serious problem and there is an open investigation by NHTSA. If you have had a similar problem, please report it.
Bev & Dan
Kookie (Awsome Toy Aussie), Frankie (Senior Lilac Siamese)
2004 PACE ARROW 37C Workhorse 22
Blue Ox and Brake Buddy towing a
2005 Malibu Maxx
Sounds like my grandmother...we told her we were looking at motorhomes and she said, "You don't want to buy one of those things, they'll nickel and dime you to death."
But when we told her we were buying one (no longer looking) her words turned into, "Will you take me camping with you??"
WORKHORSE BRAKE FAILURE On February 7/08 we left Lazy Days in Seffner, FL, drove North about 55 miles to our destination - an RV park in Port Richey, FL. We drive a 2004 Pace Arrow 37C towing a Malibu Maxx with a Brake Buddy. A few miles before our destination we started smelling something (smelled like melting plastic to me), wern't sure if it was something outside or coming from the coach. A couple of miles later ABS light came on and brakes went to the floor. We managed to get into the park by pumping brakes. Diagnosis was left rear caliper locked up, causing master cylinder fluid to boil over onto radiator, abs sensor melted, heat caused damage to hoses, pads,wheel bearings, rotors and differential fluids. All was replaced on both rear.
This coach had only 22,000 miles on a Workhorse 22 chassis. Searches on this and other forums show this to be a serious problem and there is an open investigation by NHTSA. If you have had a similar problem, please report it.
I'm curious... have you ever had the wheel positions weighed (4 corners)? Somewhere I read that with ABS brakes the weight distribution of the chassis must be well balanced for the ABS to function properly. If the coach is overloaded or out of balance on one side or the other, I am wondering if that would affect brake function.
For years the tire manufacturers have been blamed for tire malfunction when the culprit was/could have been an overweight axle at a wheel position.
DennyM
Good old boy mechanic replaced ignition control module and we were on our way.
I never even knew I had one of those thingies.
Matt
Cat 300 HP w/ Allison 6 Speed Tranny.
Problem: Driving along and engine was losing power. Would idle and sometimes get up to full power but would ultimately "chug chug" down the road. Finally made it to a rest stop and got some family to come help me. Chugged it to the nearest diesel mechanic who immediately diagnosed the problem as a fuel separator (filter?). Changed separator and the thing ran like a champ. The mechanic said it is good practice to change the fuel separator once a year under normal driving conditions as diesel fuel is mighty nasty stuff. He also mentioned that when taking off the old filter there was visible trash in and around the filter. I got off luck with a $20 filter and $75 in labor.
Newmar Mountain Aire
21000 miles
Cummins c8.3
Spartan chassis
Problem. Shift lite inop, Tail id lites inop. Found worn broken wires in the harness that connects the instrument panel to the front electrical box. When the left headlite assembly was installed the harness was pushed and pinched against the air fitting on the front air manifold. Travel vibration caused the harness to wear through the harness wrapping and two wires causing the problem. The broken wires were spliced, the harness rewrapped and repositioned.
Do not confuse me with facts, my mind is made up.
There is a difference between stupidity and ignorance: ignorance can be cured.
Tried to start after sitting for two months in an Arizona RV resort.
Nothing!
Found 2 black boxes under the dashboard with "reset fuses" on them. Pushed both reset fuses. Started fine and still starts fine. Had tried many things, don't know what these black boxes are or the reset fuse deal, but for some reason this worked.
The fuel separator is actually a filter to separate water from the diesel oil fuel...when they get full, the water has to be released, and the filter changed--most engines mfrs. recommend doing this whenever you have an oil change at a minimum, whether it needs it or not--you don't want water in a diesel engine...
Unfortunately I have to be a contributor to this thread.
Last August when we were north bound on I-39 somewhere between Bloomington, Ill. and Rockford, Ill. I went over a bump in the road caused by road construction.
All of a sudden my coach had no power. No electrical, no transmission, no engine, no nothing. I managed to coast to the side of the road and their we sat. When I turned my ignitions switch, to attempt to start the coach, nothing happened. I waited a few minutes and tried again and it started only to stop running again. I then went and looked into the battery compartment to see if maybe a battery had came loose and was shorting out against something but they were okay.
I then went back and attempted to start the coach and it started right up. It kept running so we headed out and made it back to Stevens Point, Wisconsin without further incident.
I took the coach up to my dealer who looked the coach over from front to back but they couldn't find a thing wrong with it. So, somewhere in my coach I have a problem waiting to jump out and bite me and there's nothing I can do to prevent it. Scary ain't it.
I also had a similar problem, Started my coach to warm it up before a trip. After 3 or 4 min, it shut down no power to any engine or fuse panel. Coach batteries were OK so tried to jump it with no luck. Then I got my volt meter out, Should have done that first but it was in my other truck at home. Anyway found a dead short in + cable to ground. Traced out wire and found underside of coach most wires and hoses run on frame members but on my 95 Vectra the positive wire from the inverter to the batteries j block is run on the bottom of the floor panel with 2 1/4" screws clips that came loose after hitting a bump in the road the previous day . Here is the kicker it was laying on the drive shaft, so while I was moving it would bounce on and of but when I put it up the night before, it welded itself to the drive shaft, DEAD SHORT. So I lost the engine battery but it could have been worst. If I had moved the coach it would have riped the cable out of the inverter. I will have to get a longer cable to run along the frame members the way it should have been done at the factory but for now I installed new clips and more of them
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): Cummins 275 hp, Allison 6 speed
Miles: various
Year:1997 Fleetwood discovery
Break Down Description: I had several fuel lines break on my old Discovery over a 4 year period. Finally, in El Paso, tx one night, a young hispanic mechanic, who spoke no english, was able to show me that the engine was missing the brackets/clamps that held the fuel lines on the engine so the engine vibration wouldn't break the lines. There should have been several brackets, and all were missing. Four years of grief, with 28 warranty claims on the engine for broken lines or related issues, like fuel damaged gaskets, oil seals, fuel soaked turbo sensor, etc.
Effect: much disgust...
Cause: poor engine assembly/mechanic error.
Outcome: After four years, problem was solved with the fuel line clamps.
Date: May 2008
Location: US67 near Cleburne Texas
Problem: Engine lost power and began to smoke very badly. Smoke was white. Engine continued to run at idle but had no power. Any increase in RPM generated hugh volumes of smoke.
Resolution: Had coach towed to local diesel engine facility. They diagnosed problem as failed turbo. Replaced turbo, replaced all injectors and changed oil and filter. Problem resolved but at major cost.
Cause: Coach sat for extended time in early 2000,s and turbo was evidently rusted from lack of use. I purchased vehicle in 2005 and had driven it regularly since then for 15K miles. Failure happened at 47K miles.
2003 Newmar Dutch Star with 24000 miles 350 hp ISC Cummins
2003 Newmar 40' Dutchstar, 2008 Jeep Liberty with a Roadmaster all terrain with blue ox base plates using a Air force 1
Stopped on the side of I-87 in northern NY and checked the situation.
Still had reasonable air left in the tire, and the next rest area was in view, so limped into the rest area. We do have roadside assistance, but decided to see if I could do it myself and possibly save some time.
Dropped a couple of 2x6 planks under both front jack's, and raised it up partially, broke all the lug nuts loose, then lifted the front wheels off the ground, removed and replaced the wheel/tire combination with the spare. It was a 19.5" unit, not certain if I could handle the larger 22.5" tire/wheel combo's today, and most units don't come the the spare anyway.
That's it, in the 11 year's of Class 'A' ownership, not bad, knock on wood....
Eugene & Stella
08 Dolphin DL35C, WH-24, Allison 6 Spd.Tranny.(FOR SALE)
2013 Kia Soul 4U.Automatic, Rental Tow Dolly for now.
FMCA 318247
6.5 NHE-FA/26100 P
S/N; G980768473
Emerald Plus 6500
RV particulars: 1999 Winnebago 37G
Driveline: Ford V10
Miles: 61000
Break Down Description: This generator will run for about 10 minutes or so and then the RPM will start to fluctuate and the unit shuts down.
Symptoms: It use to seem to only happen while driving so I disconnected the remote control function just to be sure. No change. Recently as I just drove from the campsite to the dump station and while I was occupied with my "duties" it went unstable and shut down. Generally it will not immediately restart. You have to wait 10 to 15 minutes and then it might restart. My DW tried to restart it after about 5 minutes only to have it start but it never stabilized and just shut down.
Parts changed: Control board, voltage regulator, ignition coil, spark plugs, plug wires, fuel filter, air filter, oil and oil filter.
Cause: Fuel pump.
Outcome: Well I gave up and took it to a shop. $250 and a new fuel pump later we're fixed. Apparently the fuel pump would heat up and quit. Once it quit, the mechanic removed it and hooked it up to a battery. It was DOA. Ran it all the way home including a few stops along the way, about 1.5 hours, and it didn't miss a lick.
BTW... I want to say how well we were treated at the shop. ATI Machine in Lancaster, Ohio.
* This post was edited 07/25/08 03:17pm by ssands *
"My reading of history convinces me that most bad government
results from too much government."
"No free man shall ever be debarred the use of arms."
--Thomas Jefferson
Steve,Sharyl and Fritz
1999 Winnebago Adventurer 37G
2009 Saturn Vue
Engine: Cat C7
Transmission: Allison 6 Speed
Symptoms: Application of exhaust brake and service brake would result in a warning light and a message that said, "Brake Fuse 5.6 volts" "Below Threshold 7.0 volts." Exhaust brake is equipped with Brake Switch controller.
Exhaust brake did not activate and transmission did not down shift. Exhaust brake light on panel did not come on.
Found later that brake lights were not coming on either.
Actions: Called Coach net and they put me in touch with Freightliner Oasis facility in LaCrosse WI, about 80 miles away. Since service brakes were working I could drive there. They were open even though it was Sunday but they could not get me in as it was about 2:30 when I arrived. They got me in 7:00 on Monday morning and finally isolated the problem to a shorted wire going to the Brake Switch module. Took the Brake Switch module out of the circuit till I get home and can find the short and all is well. Four hours trouble shooting time, etc for a total cost of $517.
Engine: Cat 3126
Transmission: Allison 6 Speed
Symptoms: Release of all air pressure when releasing park brake
Found park chamber to have broke spring which ripped the diafram and upon removal corroded fitting/line
Actions: tried to cage the brake and the rod was off center with the spring, next day after getting a ride home I found a truck shop that had the chamber I needed (2430 long stroke) taking off the old one took a bit of guts since the brake couldn't be caged and had to release the chamber from the bracket still attached to the slack arm. It didn't move much since the spring was broke (told the wife to dial 91 and keep her finger over the 1) noticed a line was cross threading and upon inspection the threads nerled over when I removed it,, went to Travel America and they had a line for me and a new fitting,, it was getting late and since I wasn't that far from home (and had to work today) I plugged the lines tied em up and took it home. I still have to install the chamber (measure and fit (cut) the pushrod to the other side since I couldn't cage the original),, But I don't have to be in a rush to do so (paying another day)
Total Cost = 121
2430ls from Southwest brake in Hamtramck, mi $63
Airline and Fitting from TA $58 (I think is overpriced, but they were a couple miles away)
Having a brake job like that done with flat tow would probably be 1500 or more
2000 Holiday Rambler Endeavor
300 Cat 6spd Ally
My wife and I hope to be going RV ing full time as soon as we sell our home and get us into an RV. We are looking at a 36 foot Rexhall Rose Air for our first RV. We also like Gulfstream but found this Rexhall that we love in Florida.
I am sorry to hear that you had such problems with your RV
We are new to this forum, it's part of our RV life style research before we get in the RV living world. This is a great site about break downs and solutions to read and learn what possibilities are out there for problems.
Thanks for sharing your breakdown expierence with us. I hope your Rig is running tip top now. I would hope that a newer rv would not have as many problems as yours and others do. Thats a mighty big expense out of pocket while your on the road.
Your first paid $4300, but by the end of the trip you spent $7300. What was the other $4000. spent on ? Another break down ?
Dave P in NC
PS: I hated spelling in school so when you see my mispelled words, oh well, I tried to get it right. Ha Ha. Dave
* This post was edited 11/13/08 02:36pm by an administrator/moderator *
The fuel separator is actually a filter to separate water from the diesel oil fuel...when they get full, the water has to be released, and the filter changed--most engines mfrs. recommend doing this whenever you have an oil change at a minimum, whether it needs it or not--you don't want water in a diesel engine...
You would think the people who change your oil would automatically change the fuel separator. I am glad I read this post. Thanks for the tip. Dave P.
RV particulars: 2002 Georgie Boy Cruise Master
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): W22 w/ Alison 8.1
Miles: 8,000
Year: 2003
Break Down Description: Key will not turn in ignition, unable to shift gears while parked
Symptoms: Cannot turn key - cannot move vehicle
Effect: Total lock up of steering wheel and ignition
Cause: loose fuse
Outcome: After being towed 200 miles, fuse was reseated and all worked fine after that.
I pulled into a gas station and turned off the engine to fill the tank with gas. When I went to restart the engine, the key would not move. The gearshift lever was locked solid. The steering wheel was locked solid. Was under Warranty by Workhorse so called for repairs. They towed me 200 miles (back from where I had come from) to nearest W repair facility. Spent the night at the repair facility and next morning repairman came out and checked fuses under the hood AND under the dash by left foot. One fuse was loose (in box by foot). Pushed it in and everything worked perfectly. Resumed trip with no problems.
Very expensive fuse....tow bill alone was $1500....paid by Workhorse.
Shadow
Wow what a crazy expense for a loose fuse. Your lucky Workhorse paid the bill. Lesson I learned here is that I should know the different kind of fuses that are used on my rig and carry extra ones. I also learned that you could not turn the ignition key if the fuse was blown. I never knew there was an electricial connection for the ignition key to work. Dave P.
RV particulars: Rexhall F-53 chassis
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): Ford 460, E40D transmission
Miles: 32,000
Year: 1994
Break Down Description: (2002) Engine stalled on warm day at St. Charles, MO
Symptoms: engine popping and backfiring, no power.
Effect: Engine hot and stalled - symptom was like vapor lock.
Outcome: Let engine cool. Engine then started and made it to RV park (Sundermier). Stayed a few days, checked all fluids, changed fuel filter on frame rail. Continued trip. Would run ok as long as we were at highway speeds. Would stall sometimes when pulling off to fuel. Managed to get home a week later after a stop in Wyoming. We had the thermostat changed there, but no help. I had ordered a full Banks system before leaving for trip. During subsequent installation, found radiator plastic tank seal broken. Replaced radiator. Also, several exhaust manifold bolts broken, causing excessive heat in the engine area. Probably causing vapor lock problems. Replaced one head with broken manifold flange, had all valves replaced on both heads, water pump, hoses, fan clutch, etc. Changed all fluids to synthetic, added B & M extra capacity transmission pan and transmission temperature gauge. No problems in 2003 traveling over 8500 miles. Preventative maintenance before 2004 trip: Replace in-tank fuel pump known for early failure.
Problems with your 2002 Rexhall? I would think that it being not that old that your manifold bolts should not have been broken, unless someone tightened them down too tight at some point in time.
Also your fuel pump being replaced as a preventive maintanince action is a good thought. Would that have been a factroy recall thing that they would cover the cost ?
We are getting ready to buy a 2003 Rexhall Rose Air. Is the fuel pump on the 2003 model something that I should ask the present owners about ? Was that a big expense to replace ? Good luck with your RV. Sounds like you've taken all the precautions to prevent any future breakdowns. Thank you for your story. It is one that we will not forget because of our soon to be Rexhall owners. Dave Packard
RV Particulars:
DSDP 38'
Driveline 3124 CAT
300 HP Alison 3060
Mileage: 63000
Breakdown description: Pulling into a rest stop, shut engine off. About 40 minutes later, while pulling out of rest stop, pouring the coals to the MH to get out into traffice,lost all power, big back fire. Check engine light came on and a couple more lights came on for an instant. Then power came back, but it was scary out there. If I take off slow, it's okay, but dangerous.
Outcome: Primary fuel filter fuel line that goes to engine has very soft rubber - it goes over the engine computer on its way to the engine. Power cables coming from battery compartment go over the fuel line and smashes it almost flat. Solution: Rerouted fuel line - so far, so good.
al
So where was the back fire noise coming from ? Dave P
Mark Bass
August 5th the MH went in to a big truck independent (with a good local reputation). I had discussed it with the owner, and he had inspected the unit. They had spoken to Ford and ordered the parts (seal and brake pads). I kept the parts that were replaced and I submitted the bill to FORD. I even took a couple photos.
Update:
I had the independent shop do the repair to the leaking axle seal in August, and I sent the claim for reimbursement to Ford as directed.
Today, December 8, 2008, I received a check for the full amount of the rear axle repair from FORD Motor Co.
I am very happy with the results on this warranty repair claim on my motor home.
Ford RV Assistance is (800) 444-3311
I started with nothing... and have most of it left.
Damon Challenger 377c
Toyota Yaris Dingy
Scottish Terrier
We have a 2008 Fleet wood Providence 40E. The dealer install a rock guard on the coach. We drove it home and discover the rock guard had bent and damage the underside of our coach. This is a fleet wood design rock guard for the providence. We were told the reason it was not install because this rock guard would damage the coach . It is a standard manufacture item. Have anyone had a problem with rock guard damage on a fleet wood motor homes.
For everybody that has an Allison 542, be aware that if you hear a funny noise in reverse, you'll lose the reverse gear (mine took about 6k mi. after the noise before it was gone). Allison no longer makes or rebuilds the 542 series due to this problem, the 545 which I now have is the direct bolt in replacement, it was an option when the 542 was installed, but most m/h manufacturers as well as school bus and trash truck mfg all went the cheap route with the 542. The reverse gears are smaller on the 542 (less meat on the teeth etc.),so with the heavy loads required to move, eventually all the teeth strip, and you have no reverse.
'91 FRED 35' Oshkosh Journey ('89 chassis)
'93 6BT5.9L Cummins 230 HP TC wastegated/intercooled,Allison 545 4 speed
'74 Jeep CJ6
'80 Suzuki GS850L
FMCA F326065
Pine River, MN
BT1(SW)USNret '95
!996 - Bounder; 34'.
Chevy P30 chassis with 454 engine and 44k miles.
Driving North on I75 just past I275, and I, thankfully, had cleared the construction zone, and it just died! No electric, no nothin'. I coasted to the side of the road. Called for a tow. After about an hour and a half, I heard a clicking. It was the emergency flashers. I then turned the ignition key and it started right up. Cancelled the tow and continued on home. Taking it back to the dealer for a checkup in a week and a half (earliest appointment I could get). Don't know cause, but using the emergency power button didn't help. Weather was light rain and I had headlights and wipers on. We'll see what it was, I hope...
After reading all 454 gas breakdowns, it seems to be a common occurance to be sensors telling computer to shutdown engine for preservation. My question is which sensors can be bypassed to keep engine running until it is convenient to repair.
1999 Chevy 454, still trying to workout 2 engine shutdowns, NO error codes in the computer, first time after two hours at 55mph, no power coasted to side of road. It restarted after checking all fluids, second time again after two hours of driving but at a traffic light on proceeding into intersection, power was limited, it was running enough to make it though intersection, pulling to side of road, turned of key and restarted, drove last mile to home and parked.
2000 Damon Challenger P32 Chassis 32 ft no slides
Gas pumps are ok. Got towed home. The next day it started right up, drove it up our long driveway and it died halfway...No more start! I previously replaced the inline electric fuel pump, drained the gas tank, replaced the fuel lines, cleaned out the tank.However unlikely, the final diagnosis after about 3 years of this intermittant problem was;
The coil, located in the distributor was intermitant. Replaced it and it's been Happy Motorcoaching since then. Had to drop drive shaft, get wrecker.
Turns out when I used the brake at the light, the GREEN socket
on the steering column melted. Bad timing. Apparently this is a common problem with p-w chassis. There are service notes. Any workhorse dealer can add the relay system that prevents the ignition socket from overheating. Seems to be the heaviest red wire, which engages a seleniod for batteries. When it fries, the trans will lock-up?
US-2 Between Ashland Wi. and Iron Wood Mi.
Smelled funny oder and the low coolant light came on. Looked back into the bed room and saw fog. Pulled over and stopped MH and Engine. Lifted the Rear Engine cover and found the serpentine belt had broken and allowed the Anti-freeze to boil out. Was on a fringe area for our cell phones and took several hours to arrange tow back to Ashland Next evening $1018.00 lighter for new belt and belt tensioner we were on our way. Most expensive belt change I ever had done.
I am changing the Anti-Freeze and all the radiator hoses this weekend to prevent any problems from that side of the cooling system. Will also change the defective temperature sender unit for the idiot light and gauge that did not work when I needed them.
U. S. Navy (RETIRED) 1993
1995 Gulf Stream Scenic Cruiser 34' Diesel Pusher Cummins B5.9 12 Valve Engine, Allison MD-3060 6 Speed Transmission.
TOAD: 2005 Ford Focus Automatic Station Wagon
Road Master Sterling All-Terrain
Returning from Charlotte I was just north of Birminham on I-65 after hitting some terribly rough road the exhaust pipe coming out of the turbo broke off, this was because the hanger clamps rusted thru, I was lucky to be near a rest area so I pulled in & tied up the muffler & started back on I-65 looking for a repair shop. I didn't go 5-miles when I lost all the air & the suspension dropped.
I found several air lines & electrical wires all in a loom running across the frame about 5 feet from the turbo burnt thru. I un-hooked my car & was able to find a parts store for air lines & fittings, I was able to repair enough of them to get to the next exit & into a Cracker Barrell (by the way the management here where great!)once I was able to get the lines repaired I was able to find a repair place to replace the exhaust.
When I got home I purchased several yards of fire proof insulation & steel band clamps & wrapped the looms running across the rear beams & cut 1" wide stripes & wrapped all the main air lines that are near the exhaust.
I never thought about how hot the exhaust would be & I am actually luckey it didn't catch fire.
You can buy the insulation & clamps at Pegasusautoracing.com this preventive maintenance could save somebody a real serious problem.
My coach is a Monaco Windser with a 400 Cummins
1999 National Tradewinds
2001 Honda Odyssey--Toad
Fulltime Wanabee
I sold the Cat and now have a 400 Cummins. No problems with it.
"Freedom is not Free"
Ask a Veteran
This year while on vacation, after day 1 the Generac Generator (3 years ago it was the generator fuel pump that went out) would run but wasn't putting out any electricity to the coach. Turns out the drive belt from the generator motor to whatever it is that makes the electricity had broken. The kind of repair you hate as the belt was $23.80 but the generator had to be removed to change it. 6 hours labor total so the bill was over $500 to replace a $23 belt! Ouch.
Also on day 2, the water pump quits working. Switches won't activate the pump. RV repair place in Minnesota manages to spend 5 hours discovering he couldn't figure out what was wrong. Runs jury rigged wiring under the bed to the pump and installs a switch on the bed frame. In spite of the exposed wires, at least we now have water.
Last year it was a chasis problem - '97 460 Ford just quit running while going down the interstate. Towed to Iowa small town repair facility who diagnosed the problem as a fuel pump. Had what I thought was plenty of fuel pressure, but not according to the mechanic. Being Saturday, no pump to be had. Sat in parking lot of repair facility until pump arrived on Monday. Didn't send adaptor needed for fuel pump retrofit. So, that arrives on Tuesday. Puts everything back together and unit still won't run - just cranks and cranks. Then figures out it is a bad coil. Replaced the coil and it starts right up. Most likely the problem all along.
Mechanic managed to turn what should have been a 2 hour / $200 repair into 4 vacation days and $1,000 plus! Oh yes, and all the cranking of the motor with a bad coil filled the cylinders with gas that drained into the crankcase thinning out the oil and triggering a check engine light when we did finally get on the way. Returned for diagnosis and he said I needed the oil and filter changed which he did for $65 (the Ford dealer had just done it for $29)!
Some vacation. Ah, the joys of motorhoming and being at someone's mercy when you break down on the road a thousand miles from home. Wife informed me today she has taken her last vacation in this motorhome. She says: "Sell it if you want to celebrate a 42nd anniversary with me and next year we are renting a cabin!"
4 major breakdowns on the last 6 vacations has put her at the end of her rope. Told her I'd put it up for sale as soon as I had the electric steps and hydraulic jacks that also quit working this trip repaired - though it may take a while before I can accumulate the money to have it done! You'd never know I am a "preventative maintenance" kind of guy would you?
Planocat
* This post was last edited 07/21/09 03:37am by Planocat *
I've always felt it very important to be self-sufficient on the road to be able to fix any problem I might encounter. I've studied every manual that came with the coach, nearly memorized the electrical schematic, and I stuff one of my basements with every tool, connector, wire, lamp, plug, glue, grease, and "magic helper" I can find. Usually two of everything. I carry oil, filters, specialty wrenches, and unusual items that I've read about. Still we pay GS ERS each and every year as a backup.
We love our coach and the adventures and, fortunately, we've been relatively void of serious problems. Last year was the worst.
On a trip to Bloomington, IN we were on the outerbelt south of Indy. It was a bright, sunny day. As a car passed on my left I noticed she had her wipers on. After making a snide comment about the stupid driver I noticed the next car to pass had his wipers on as well. I immediately knew something was up and scanned my gauges. My temp was starting to climb and, at about that same instant I noticed the steering was getting really stiff. I was two lanes from the berm but managed to drift off without incident. It was a hot day and I spotted an overpass up ahead so, in my wisdom, I allowed the coach to coast under bridge to keep us out of the sun (mistake number one). My wife had that "What's going on?" look and didn't know if I was stopping to pee or if there was a problem. I said "We have a problem. I'll be right back" and headed for the door. When I got back to the truck in flat-tow I saw that it was covered in oily goo. I went around to the road side - about 2 feet from the white line with traffic wizzing past at full speed - and laid down to look under the coach. Red fluid all over the road and the underside. Hydaulic. Ouch. Can't do this myself.
Broke the news to my wife and we called GS ERS (GREAT service!). They said it would be about 60 minutes before the repair truck would arrive. In that time I unhooked the toad, cleaned off a spot on the windshield, and stuck my wife and kids in to get them off the busy highway. They headed to Bloomington to meet our appointment there. Once they were gone and safe I pulled out the manuals to re-read how to tow such a beast, just in case some grease-monkey showed up who'd never towed before.
The big diesel tow came right on time and as soon as he greeted me I promptly launched into a speech about what the owners manual said to do to tow (mistake number two). He eyed me as I spoke and when I was done he said "I do this for a living. I'll tell you what, if there's a problem when I'm done THEN you can tell me how to do my job." Ouch, and boy did I deserve that. I apologized as best I could and he did his masterful job. Firstly, once he got the hook under the front axle, he pulled me forward out from under the bridge so he could climb under the coach without being run over (another lesson for me!). He had to drop the driveshaft but in about 1/2 hour I was sitting in his cab with our dog in my lap as we chugged down the highway. To my complete surprise he took the first exit about a mile away, made two quick turns and dropped us into the able hands of PFM Truck Care Center.
PFM was great! Wonderful people who assured me that they'd get me back on the road in just a few hours. I called my wife who was already at Bloomington but she decided to drive back up to Indy to meet me in case I was stuck for the night.
The primary hydraulic hose that controls power steering and the radiator cooling fans had blown and they had to make a new one, which was the easy part. Getting the old fittings to break loose was much tougher and took the better part of two hours. The repair guy was able, quick, very nice and enjoyed talking about what he was doing (while I reminded myself about my lecture to the tow truck driver!). When he saw my interest he made a point of saying I should NEVER try a hydraulic repair myself because the pressures are so high. About $1000 and 5 hours later we were on our way and made the campground south of Bloomington just before dark.
I've learned how to fix most things on the coach, from the cruise, to the steps, to the fridge and hot water tank, fuel, oil, filters, electrical, etc. But what I learned most on that trip was to be a better judge of what I say, and to know when I'm in over my head.
'95 Country Coach Intrigue
'02 Dodge Dakota
Falcon Towbar and Unified Brake
Wife, two kids, and a dog
My cost of the $1000 total repair was $470.Love GS ERS!!
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): Gillig, Cummins 300, Allison 6
Miles:39000
Year:1995
Break Down Description: Engine running, guages fine, no power
Symptoms: very little response from gas pedal; RPM response normal
Effect: Slowed to crawl up hill, no power response, confusion
Cause: snapped threads on air inlet line to turbo
Outcome:$1.49 part replaced at Cummins, Columbia, SC. All fine now!
This month I drove MH from FL to Ohio. After all the hills and mountains on return trip, MH brakes failed when No hills or mountains flat land for 20 miles and normal city driving just before getting to CG. after entering CG in Kentucky stopped normal at gatehouse, started to go to site and at first speed bump tried to apply brakes and it went to floor. slowly manuvered to site and checked all wheels temps, found rear drivers side was 300 degrees while rest were about 150. Bled cylinder, when mechanic showed up from GS's he bled passenger side and helped jack drivers wheel up to check rotation and stopping, gave it his ok to drive. Checked it in cg, cautiously drove and braked all was normal.
Used about pt of brake fluid, fluid I removed from system was black looking actually dark green on pouring.
Side note, most parts on chevy chassis are american, brake bleed valve needed 10mm metric.
Gary
Driveline: Workhorse 8.1L, Alison Transmission
Miles:36500
Year:2001
Break Down Description: While driving along highway the "Auto Park" light began blinking on and off. I could hear the hydraulic pump cycling as though it was trying to release the parking brake. The default position for the brake is "applied", which could have resulted in a 'catastrophic' event.
Symptoms:"Auto Park" light blinking; hydraulic pump cycling
Effect: Loss of hydraulic fluid from auto park brake reservoir
Cause: End of hydraulic ram had loosened allowing fluid to spray out when pressure was applied to release the brake
Outcome: Removed access cover, tightened end of ram as tight as possible, and refilled reservoir. Suggestion : Keep a regular check on reservoir fluid level
2001 Itasca Suncruiser
2 Cor 1:8
"We Were Soldiers Once....and Young"
thanks
1994 GulfStream Sun Voyager
Cummins 5.9
Allison 6 sp
Turns out that the "NEUTRAL SWITCH" in the Tranny was starting to fail.
Symptoms = turn the key and the engine would not turn over.
Quick Fix? - by pass the neutral switch on the tranny ;-)
1994 Gulf Stream Money Pit ( Sun Voyager )
B 5.9 Cummins 6 sp Allison Tr
Stuart & Sharon & way too many German Shepherds ;-)
Tofield, Alberta Canada
www.edalegsd.com
Wrong thread...re-read the rules.
how do you make the repair..
Daniel
My stories and I am sad to say they are plural go back to when I first bought the coach on consignment from a dealer. Unfortunately the low mileage was due to the coach sitting a lot while the owner was on various assignments around the country. It helps to drive these babies as they are made for that. Most of my problems have appeared here before so I won't go into great detail, suffice it to say that it was very traumatic at the time. I have met several small shop diesel mechanics who are really a great breed. The following is my expierience since 2004 when we bought the coach:
RV particulars: Monaco Dynasty, Roadmaster Chasis
Driveline (Engine, Transmission)
Miles:30,000
Year:1997
Break Down Description: First trip after purchasing it used. Pulling a flatbed trailer with SUV on it. Stopped for fuel and engine wouldnt turn off. Finally found a fuse to pull which shut off the engine.
Symptoms: Engine wont turn off.
Effect:
Cause: The RV dealer installed a trailer wiring kit which did not have a solenoid disconnect and the trailer break away battery fed back into the coach.
Outcome: Disconnected the trailer plug every time I stopped during the rest of the trip. Never did fix it since I switch to towing 4 wheels down shortly afterwards.
This particular problem has been experienced by another forum member who I was able to help via the internet while he was on the road experiencing the problem.
Miles:35,000
Break Down Description: After camping in the rain for a few days the engine would not start.
Effect: Fuel solenoid would not open shut off valve.
Cause: Corrosion on wire connector.
Outcome: I hot wired the valve with a fuse and switch to get home.
Seems like every owner should know the ins and outs of their particular fuel shut off valve since this appears to be a frequent problem.
Miles:35,000
Break Down Description: Alternator was not charging.
Cause: Broken wire.
Outcome: Ran on battery until it dropped to 11 volts then stopped and charged battery off of generator.
Miles:37,000
Break Down Description: Fuel fogging the toad.
Cause: Loose injector
Outcome: Found a truck shop and mechanic tightened the injector-$20. Cost $30 to clean toad and engine.
I am going to check fuel lines and injectors more frequently since this appears to be a common problem.
Miles:40,000
Break Down Description: Lost power due to low turbo boost
Cause: PacBrake cylinder pivot mount broke and causing butterfly to block exhaust flow to turbo.
Outcome: Because mechanics thought the turbo had blown they suggested the mh be towed to a truck shop. Mechanic checked out turbo and then found the problem with the PacBrake. He wired it open. Cost tow $680 covered by insurance, mechanic diagnosed problem with temporary fix and re-install drive shaft $65. I fixed the PacBrake for the cost of a new cylinder $78.
Miles:42,000
Break Down Description: Engine high temperature light and alarm went on while gage indicated normal engine temperature.
Cause: Suspect faulty sensor.
Outcome: Cooled the engine to ambient and restarted. Alarm was still on while gage indicated a cold engine. Disconnected the sensor and carefully monitored engine temperature gage. Have not fixed it yet.
Well it did happen again this time 1200 miles laer as I exited the Kanas turnpike on Rte 35. Ford sent me to Enid OK. (Stephens Ford) and they replaced the speed sensor on Friday, the altanator on Monday, ignition coils (two at a time) on Tuesday and then determined it was the Powertrain Command Module. They had to order that from Pennsylvania. They replaced the Powertrain Control Module after it arrived by UPS at three in the afternoon on Thursday and I went with them for the 50 mile road test. The situation did not occur so I packed up and headed north. Two days and 1200 miles later I made it home with no problems. They said Ford felt it was a bad PCM that kept reading a bad speed sensor when the sensor was ok. It sure kept me on edge all the way home waiting for it to happen again. Sure was glad to get out of Enid Oklahoma after spending a week there. I will be going after Ford for some compensation for hotel rooms as it happened under bumper to bumper warranty to first time making it a recurring incident. Stevens Ford in Enid were great to deal with and went out of their way to look after us while we were there. Great to be home.
Dave
and Judy 2006 Fleetwood Bounder(32W)w/(Scan Gauge)
Pressure Pro TPM)(Clean Dump Macerator)
2003 Tracker ZR2 w/Blue Ox Aventa II Tow Bar,
Base Plates and SMI 4 wire Stay and Play Brake System
Good Sam denied both claims. They said because a seal went bad which caused the compressor to leak and seals and gaskets are not covered they will not pay for the new compressor. As I explained to them that this wasn't caused by a seal and according to the invoice it was a leak and there was a bad O-Ring which caused the break down they will not pay for this part of the claim. Almost 1200.00 dollars. After going back and forth with them they send me a check for 531.00 saying they where giving me a good jester payment. My point to them was ok if you are giving me a good jester payment which is saying I'm guilty and here is some I'm guilty money, why not paid for the whole thing.
No such luck. Next part of the claim is they won't pay for the flume because of an alignment problem and alignment in not covered in the policy. Now here is a part that worked for 7 years and broke never to work again and they called it and alignment problem which didn't even read that in the invoice. 1700.00 down the toilet.
Keep in mind that your RV is pretty much made up of seals and gasket's and including the engine so if you have a Good Sam Extended Maintenance Policy you may want to re think it.
I did find another company who will cover seals and gaskets and read all the fine print and hope they will up hold the policy on my next break down and I'm sure I will have another break down along the way.
I'm not saying all of Good Sam is bad as I had good luck with there road service in the passed but now my life time membership doesn't even feel like a friendship.
Thanks for listining and happy motoring
RV particulars: Monaco Diplomat SFT, Roadmaster Chassis
Driveline (Engine, Transmission) Cummins 8.9 400 HP, Allison 6 Speed World Trans
Miles: 9,000
Year: 2008
Break Down Description: Houston TX to Marietta GA. 2nd day, on I-285 West approx 1/2 mile prior to Exit 18, thought I hit something even though road was clear and traffic light. Immediately "ALTERNATOR FAILURE" light came on. Presumed the fan belt broke.
Symptoms: Alternator Failure light blinking, alarm sounding. Engine Overheat Light and alarm shortly thereafter, "LOW BATTERY" light and alarm.
Effect: Engine overheating.
Cause: The fan belt pulley bearings failed, causing/allowing the fan and pulley to tilt forward and down. The fan (plastic) hit the crankcase pulley and shattered all 8 blades almost to the base. Shards of the fan cut the fan belt. More shards were thrown through and into the radiator. Some of the fan pieces even penetrated the heat shield and there were deep dents/cuts into the floor base in the master bedroom area.
Outcome: Towed to Cummins Power South. This is a Motorhome specific Cummins Service Center. They were terrific, fixed everything in a timely fashion. Bill Thomas, Cummins Service Advisor, arranged the tow after offering three different tow companies. The repairs were covered under Cummins warranty. The tow covered under Good Sam ERS. Fan and radiator had to be ordered from Monaco (YIKES!!!). We were back on the road in 6 business days, most of the delay due to getting parts from Monaco.
Bud
Driveline (Engine, Transmission) Chevy 454 4bbl gas, 3spd auto
Miles: 75,000
Year: 1983
Break Down Description: Engine would not start after shutting it off.
Symptoms: Engine would turn over but not start.
Cause: After determining there was no fuel getting to the carb I replaced the mechanical fuel pump...still didn't work, I then replaced all of the steel fuel line from engine to rubber hose exiting the top of the gas tank. Still didn't work. I then replaced the mechanical fuel pump with an electric fuel pump and mounted it on the chassis just after the fuel tank...still no fuel. I then removed the rear queen bed and cut a hole in the floor above the fuel tank and replaced the rubber fuel hose. All working now.
Outcome: The engine runs now.
1983 Fleetwood Southwind 28'
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): 8.1L gas, Allison 5 speed, Workhorse Chassis
Miles: 35000
Year: 2003
Break Down Description: Loss of power
Symptoms: Running along fine, sudden loss of power then resumes running along fine.
Effect: loss of power
Cause: Crankshaft Position Sensor
Outcome: Replaced sensor an no further problems
We were running down the interstate when the motorhome lost power for less than a second then resumed to running fine. Happened 3 times during a 300 mile trip. An engine scanner found codes p1518 and p0336. Apparently the p0336 caused the p1518 code because once the crankshaft position sensor was replaced all codes were gone. Drove another 300 miles with no problem so far.
Update 10/27/10: Over 42000 miles and still running strong.
* This post was edited 10/27/10 10:41pm by Fulltimers *
I guess I belong here. I've had 4 Air Conditioning compressor failures as well as other A/C failures since we bought this coach new. Workhorse says it is not a continuing problem even though we had 3 compressor failures in the first 2 years. I'm sure glad they stand behind their product.
Just the two of us
islandvagabond
* This post was edited 12/15/09 05:24pm by mobilefleet *
USA Roadside's RV towing is limited to 10 miles, and your other non-RV vehicles are not covered. At $99/year, the feature list is very short compared to Coach-Net or Good Sam.
Dutch
1995 Coachmen Catalina 322QBXL
F53 chassis, 460 V8, TST TPMS
Quadra Bigfoot EZE Levelers
2011 Toyota RAV4 4WD/Remco pump
ReadyBrute Elite tow bar/Blue Ox baseplate
We were driving thru Kansas on a windy and very cold day when I noticed that the dash heater was not putting out heat! Why? I found out 15 minutes later when the low cooling fluid light can on. I pulled over and found the back of of the RV was wet with cooling fluid. The cause was the hose from the header tank to the low point had split where it made 180 degree turn under a frame member.
I limped to the next service station and made temp repairs by cutting off the degraded part of the hose and routed it more directly to the low point and clamped it. We bot enough antifreeze to refill the cooling system.
On the way home we stopped for warranty service in Elkhart,IN and added this problem to the list. When the defective hose was replaced I rescued the hose from the garbage and dicovered that it was "zero pressure Marine exhaust hose"!
This is the same Monaco that later went Bankrupt and my waranties are thus usless.
Problem: MH running fine then all of a sudden immediate overheat indication, then immediate drop back down to normal....
Going up the 405 thru LA and overheat gauge goes rapidly to max for a few seconds, then drops back to normal....Does this every few miles...I knew it was not overheating, engine was normal temp and coolant was full....Heading to a repair facility when gauge goes to max and stays there....After about a minute, engine goes in "fail safe" mode, operating on 5 of 10 cyls......Really fun in LA traffic...Pull off and engine feels normal, coolant fine, so I know it is some type of false overheat.....Engine off and on re-start operates fine....Get to a GREAT Ford dealer in Arroyo Grande, Ca (Mullahey Ford) who diagnose the problem as "false overheat", covered by Ford TSB.....They fix the problem and all is now fine after another 1000 miles.....
This Ford dealer knew we were just "passing through" but treated us great.....
Steve and Liz
Elko, Nv
2014 Newmar Dutch Star
2010 Jeep Wrangler
problem
We are currently in Slidell,La. Our mh is sitting at Empire Truck Sales.We left Foutainbleau State Park in Mandeville,La.,heard a noise that my wife said came from the rear of the coach.Stopped & looked around,didn't find anything but suspected a bad u-joint.Called Coach-net & they had it towed to Empire Truck Sales(they are anauthorized Freightliner repair facility).Been sitting here since Mon. the 15th.All I can say is don't break down around New Orleans around Mardi Gratime &don't have a Monaco.I called Monaco & they said it wouldn't be covered under the recall because my mh was made in Elkhart,In. & not in Or.,& they wouldn't cover it anyway because Monaco went belly up & weas taken over by Navistar.Now we're out $$$$ because of this thing,oh well,It's been pretty good up until now,considering we're fulltimers.
06 Holiday Rambler Ambassador
11 Buick Lacross
Miles:59,000
Year:85
Break Down Description: Would turn over, but not run. would sputter if I held the accelerator to the floor, but still not run.
Symptoms:Flooded carbs/cylinders
Effect
park plugs not producing spark, getting fouledCause
xcessive fuel in cylindersOutcome
eplaced plugs, allowed cylinders to dry out. starts and runs perfetctly.
Justin
1987 Winnebago Elandan 34RU - Good shape, runs great!
2001 Yamaha Roadstar 1600 - I need an enclosed trailer for this...
2004 Ford Excursion Eddie Bauer - 6.0 Diesel with 190k and climbing
Not all who wander are lost...
1.Rear radiator in diesels leads to overheating problems---if not properly manintained.
2. Fuel/filter problems lead to many diesel engine problems.
3. Accessory items seem to fail on diesels, believe the basic engine is long life, but some of the many switches, etc. seem to fail or cause problems.
4. With a new gas unit I could pay cash, but a new diesel costs quite a bit more and I did not want to borrow $$$$$.
5. Maintenance costs (parts and labor) seem higher. Believe with a gas engine you are dealing with automotive/individual type of charges vs industrial/corporate type of charges with a diesel.
Now, if you want a big (over 38 foot), heavy, powerful, smooth riding coach, diesel is the only way to go. Also I now only put on about 8,000 miles a year and half time it, so the justification of a diesel is very difficult. Coach is sitting and being lived in most of the time.
Selection depends on your own situation, use and thoughts.
i am new to this sit and i have no idea if anyone can help me but if you can that would be great. We just got this class A RV and i try to turn the generator on and it kills all the power in the motorhome i checked all the fuses and nothing was wrong with them the generator isn't even making any noise when i push the start to turn it on. it was working last week i used it now nothing and info will be great thanks
Blog
260 HP Cummins ISB
Overheated about 100 miles into trip.
Made it to a Cummins Repair Shop
This was our first trip in the used DP we purchased in December.
Cummins shop found charge air cooler was shot and filter was clogged.
Asked shop to replace CAC and filter, change coolant, change thermostat and clean and flush radiator.
When degreasing radiator, fins started to fall out. Radiator was corroded from road salt (purchased from individual in Chicago area).
Radiator had to be replaced.
RV nows run beautifully.
Do not rely on CAC air gauge, which is supposed to show when airflow is becoming restricted. Our gauge, which I checked regularly, showed all was normal. My CAC was so clogged, I'm surprised the RV would even start. Cummins tech told me they see this all the time, RV'ers rely on the gauge without checking the filter in the CAC and they've seen cylinders scorched because of dirty air reaching the cylinders.
I bought my brothers 1992 Tioiga Class C from him. Before we went on our first trip that summer I discovered that the refrigerator did not work, replaced the refrigerator. Went into the local tire shop and asked them if it was time for new tires, they said I was good for another year. We decided to travel from Mn to an area South of Butte MT then back to MN via the Big Horn mountains. On the second day of our trip the motor home lost power and quit near Columbus MT. The temperature was about 100 degrees, I got towed back to Columbus by the local body shop/wrecker company. Since it was a Sunday he towed us to his shop and got us plugged in to power for the night. The next morning the motor home started just fine. The wrecker operator told me that I probably needed a new fuel pump and that the Ford garage in town would tell me that I did not need one. He was right, the Ford garage said the only problem was the fuel filter and they sent me on my way. I made it as far as Bute MT before it quit again. The local Ford garage wanted nothing to do with fixing a motor home. I convinced them that I needed a new fuel pump, they agreed to farm the job out to a truck repair shop. I got the MH back the next day and everything worked great for the rest of the trip until we were on our way home. I then had a blow out on the inside right rear dual tire. We were in the middle of no where but I did have a jack with me and was able to change the tire. Naturally the fender liner, exhaust pipe and storage drawer under the refrigerator were destroyed.
The next Summer I took this same MH into the shop because it was making a noise from the drive train. The mechanic could not find anything wrong. I figured it out 700 miles later in the middle of Montana, bad U-joint on the drive shaft. I was able to limp into Sheridan WY and find a shop that could fix it that day. The repair was very reasonable and I gave the mechanic a nice tip for his prompt service.
Symptom: On a 6700 mile trip out west, about ¾ thru the trip had dash WARNING light, loss of Exhaust temp. gauge and Boost gauge, engine went into derate mode (fastest I could go was about 45mph). Above symptoms occurred intermittently then went solid broke.
Cause: Fault code posted was 123, which is Intake Manifold Pressure Sensor circuit malfunction. When the Cummins computer detects problem in the above-mentioned circuit, it goes into derate mode in order to protect the engine. The Banks Ottomind is in circuit between pressure sensor and Cummins computer. Cabled around Ottomind black box and was able to make it back home with full power. Upon removing cover of Ottomind, discovered all sorts of road dirt on the circuit board. This, I feel, caused the demise of the black box.
Resolution: Replaced Banks Ottomind black box (not cheap either).
A word of caution to those with the Banks System installed on their units: check the location of the Ottomind box. Mine was located in the engine compartment (about 2 feet above the road) where it was exposed to moisture and road dirt. I installed the new box inside the coach under the bed where is free from moisture and road dirt.
Chevy 454 engine
75,000 miles
Long story short-Fan belt broke and engine overheated and before I caught it, it threw a rod. Had motorhome towed 300 miles home to Atlanta and I replaced engine with a crate engine. On the next trip, had the new engine destroy a rod bearing in Gaffney SC, probably due to improper pre-oiling by the engine rebuilder. Got to a Chevy dealer who said they could change it. Original engine builder rebuilt engine under protest and Chevy dealer in Gaffney installed it. Next trip, 700 miles from home, bolts holding front pulley broke from being over torqued by the dealer, went through radiator and cut two brake lines. Peterbuilt shop made repairs at over $3,000, drove back home and traded it in because wife wouldn't get in it anymore. Moral: Don't by a crate engine from just anyone and make sure the guarantee is good. I wouldn't buy from anyone but Jasper or Mr. Goodwrench at this point, and make sure, if you have a shop do it that they have mechanics who know what they are doing. Obviously the Chevy dealer didn't.
The cam gear pump works fine for filtered WVO or used motor oil Babington heaters and I have installed it on my Babington style heaters. Ldu Company's stock number is 450516 , The only thing about the cam gear pump is that the fire kind of pulses as the cam gear rotates. If you use the spur gear pump that is LDU's stock number 450512 then you get a steady non-pulsing fire. The WVO pump website is http://www.liangdianup.com/subpages/oilpump_1.htm or you can click through to the tools section from the home page at www.LDUcompany.com
LDU Company also has other parts that I use for building my waste oil burners, like gear reduction motors. I find it best to turn the pump slower because you really don't need a whole lot of oil dripping on the atomizer ball.
Unfortunately I have to be a contributor to this thread.
Last August when we were north bound on I-39 somewhere between Bloomington, Ill. and Rockford, Ill. I went over a bump in the road caused by road construction.
All of a sudden my coach had no power. No electrical, no transmission, no engine, no nothing. I managed to coast to the side of the road and their we sat. When I turned my ignitions switch, to attempt to start the coach, nothing happened. I waited a few minutes and tried again and it started only to stop running again. I then went and looked into the battery compartment to see if maybe a battery had came loose and was shorting out against something but they were okay.
I then went back and attempted to start the coach and it started right up. It kept running so we headed out and made it back to Stevens Point, Wisconsin without further incident.
I took the coach up to my dealer who looked the coach over from front to back but they couldn't find a thing wrong with it. So, somewhere in my coach I have a problem waiting to jump out and bite me and there's nothing I can do to prevent it. Scary ain't it.
Check your master shutoff switch usually located in the engine compartment. Your problem description happened to me
454 Big Block V8
65,000 miles
Rookie owner on first vacation trip. RV running fine, made trip from FL to KY with no problems. Stopped at Rest Area in WV. When we tried to start, got nothing. Checked all fuses and tried to jump battery, no help. Called Good Sam road service. Two hours later wrecker showed up. Driver knew where to look, wiring touching the manifold had burned through. Had some wire and replaced burnt section, RV started up.
Followed to Chevy dealer for the night. Replaced wiring harness and starter which was also heat damaged. Recommended that we put back heat shield that was missing.
Actually, pretty lucky this happened at a rest stop. Other than loosing one day and $400, no other issues. Good Sam driver was VERY helpful!!!
N4FAP
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): 454, turbo 350
Miles: 63k
Year: 86
Break Down Description: after driving down I-75s we stopped at Bush gardens for a day of fun. backing in to a spot in the rv over flow lot. i lost all steering.
Symptoms: Rag joint had torn. or so we thought was the only problem.
Effect: ability to steer
Cause: battery acid had leaked down on the the frame where the steering gear box connects to the frame. and ate it all up causing it to tear the rag joint and pull the frame out.
Outcome: having the cross member replaced and realigned.
1986 GulfStream SunStream 8270
27 feet long, powered by a 454 engine on a GMC Chassis as well as a Onan Emerald 1 Genset. traveling is my Wife and I with a Beagle and a Jackabee
2006 42' Country Coach intrigue 530 525hp
Dash had power, fuses all checked out, batteries had 13+ volts on the meter. Generator was running just fine, keeping all the batteries charged. Starter appeared dead.
Called GS road service. Tech came out after about an hour and reviewed all the stuff I had checked. He said, "has to be the starter". I said, "What do you want to do? Hit it with a hammer?" He said, "Yeah, why not?"
The tech crawled under the coach. It was pouring rain. Hit the starter with the old ball peen hammer and, voila, the thing started right up.
He confirmed my suspicion that the starter must have a "bad spot" and should be replaced. I paid him the $200 for hitting it with the hammer (after hours rate is double) and we drove to our slot in the park. The next day, I called Cummins Southern Plains down the road in San Antionio to see if I could bring the coach in Friday before Labor Day) and get them to check out the starter. They advised they were way too busy and probably couldn't get to my coach before the following Tuesday.
On Monday, Labor Day, we drove the coach to another rally south of San Antonio. It started up without any problem. We parked for that rally which ran through the following weekend. Then we headed back east toward Beaumont. The coach started right up that time as well.
My past experience with Cummins Southern Plains in Houston had been good, so we pulled in there last Monday to see if they would check it out. They provide prompt service and advised that while the engine was still well within warranty, the starter was NOT because it had not been supplied by Cummins. It seems that Monaco, like many other manufacturers, buys their Cummins engines sans the starter and buys the starter elsewhere - to save bucks no doubt. Since my 2008 coach is "pre-bankruptcy", it was not going to be covered by Monaco nor was it covered by Cummins. Southern Plains wanted $725 plus tax to swap it out for a new rebuilt unit.
Since the coach seemed to be starting ok after the hammer trick, I passed on that offer and drove on back to Beaumont. I put the coach in it's garage and, just for "luck" hit the starter. Nothing happened! It was stuck dead again.
I didn't tell DW, because she would be real upset with me for not getting the thing replaced in Houston, but I promised myself I would come out the next day and try the hammer trick and then, if that worked, I'd pull the starter and send it to the local repair shop that my company often uses to rebuild motors of all types.
Arriving at the garage yesterday afternoon, I slid under the coach with my trusty hammer. Looking up at the starter, I could not help but notice that the positive lead, that attaches to the top rear of the starter was not only loose, it was REAL LOSE. Like three turns of the nut lose and tilted sideways.
I set my hammer aside and went to get a 3/4 inch box end wrench. I torked up the nut and went to the cab. The engine started on the first try and on each of three subsequent tries. I think I've fixed my problem, and I'm happy with the fact that I appear to have saved the $725. I am a bit upset with the fact that both the roadside tech and the Cummins Southern Plains techs looked at that same starter and didn't notice the loose lead.
Moral of this case is to check everything you can yourself and don't just trust the story you get told by the tech.
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): Workhorse Gasser 5 Speed Allison
Miles: Approx. 25K
Year: 2004
Break Down Description: After driving 300 highway miles for the day, we came to stopped traffic on a freeway in Denver, CO. Upon attempting to move on, the engine died. Three times.
Symptoms: Loss of power
Effect: Sitting on the side of the road!
Cause: Guessing it was high altitude, hot (but not overheated) engine, creating fuel vaporization when we stopped in traffic. Otherwise known as vapor lock.
Outcome: After a 15 minute rest, the Windy restarted and made the 2 mile remaining trip to the RV park. A mobile mechanic replaced the fuel filter as a precaution and ultimately we made the 1100+ mile return trip home without a recurrence of the problem.
RV particulars: SAME
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): SAME
Miles: VARIOUS
Year: SAME
Break Down Description: Overheated brakes, various locations, various occurrences.
Symptoms: Burning smell, one brief episode of flames, mushy brake pedals, fried ABS sensors, dragging of the affected wheels.
Effect: Wondering if we were ever gonna be able to travel with the Windy again.
Cause: %$@!! Bosch brakes what don't like southeast Texas hoomidity.
Outcome: Caliper replacement more than once, and waiting on the resolution of the recall. We were able to make a 2200+ round trip recently with no further brake trouble.
nowitall@gmail.com
2004 Southwind 32VS (8.1 Litre Chebby)
2009 Mazda Tribute Toadie
Finally escaped the hoomidity and skeeters for the Front Range of Colorado!
Travelin' By RV
Over Labor Day, we took our 2008 Monaco Camelot out to the Texas hill country to attend a rally. It's about a 285 mile trip from Beaumont to Boerne, Tx. Ariving at the park, I shut down the Cummins ISL 400 to unhitch the tow and register with the office. I Came out after about 15 minutes and the coach would not start.
Dash had power, fuses all checked out, batteries had 13+ volts on the meter. Generator was running just fine, keeping all the batteries charged. Starter appeared dead.
Called GS road service. Tech came out after about an hour and reviewed all the stuff I had checked. He said, "has to be the starter". I said, "What do you want to do? Hit it with a hammer?" He said, "Yeah, why not?"
The tech crawled under the coach. It was pouring rain. Hit the starter with the old ball peen hammer and, voila, the thing started right up.
He confirmed my suspicion that the starter must have a "bad spot" and should be replaced. I paid him the $200 for hitting it with the hammer (after hours rate is double) and we drove to our slot in the park. The next day, I called Cummins Southern Plains down the road in San Antionio to see if I could bring the coach in Friday before Labor Day) and get them to check out the starter. They advised they were way too busy and probably couldn't get to my coach before the following Tuesday.
On Monday, Labor Day, we drove the coach to another rally south of San Antonio. It started up without any problem. We parked for that rally which ran through the following weekend. Then we headed back east toward Beaumont. The coach started right up that time as well.
My past experience with Cummins Southern Plains in Houston had been good, so we pulled in there last Monday to see if they would check it out. They provide prompt service and advised that while the engine was still well within warranty, the starter was NOT because it had not been supplied by Cummins. It seems that Monaco, like many other manufacturers, buys their Cummins engines sans the starter and buys the starter elsewhere - to save bucks no doubt. Since my 2008 coach is "pre-bankruptcy", it was not going to be covered by Monaco nor was it covered by Cummins. Southern Plains wanted $725 plus tax to swap it out for a new rebuilt unit.
Since the coach seemed to be starting ok after the hammer trick, I passed on that offer and drove on back to Beaumont. I put the coach in it's garage and, just for "luck" hit the starter. Nothing happened! It was stuck dead again.
I didn't tell DW, because she would be real upset with me for not getting the thing replaced in Houston, but I promised myself I would come out the next day and try the hammer trick and then, if that worked, I'd pull the starter and send it to the local repair shop that my company often uses to rebuild motors of all types.
Arriving at the garage yesterday afternoon, I slid under the coach with my trusty hammer. Looking up at the starter, I could not help but notice that the positive lead, that attaches to the top rear of the starter was not only loose, it was REAL LOSE. Like three turns of the nut lose and tilted sideways.
I set my hammer aside and went to get a 3/4 inch box end wrench. I torked up the nut and went to the cab. The engine started on the first try and on each of three subsequent tries. I think I've fixed my problem, and I'm happy with the fact that I appear to have saved the $725. I am a bit upset with the fact that both the roadside tech and the Cummins Southern Plains techs looked at that same starter and didn't notice the loose lead.
Moral of this case is to check everything you can yourself and don't just trust the story you get told by the tech.
I trust that you thought about removing the ground lead on the battery before you started turning a wrench on the positive lead for starter.(Could contact engine block and shot out battery.
Yep, cut both battery switches and also removed the negative side of both battery banks just to be extra safe. Never can tell what may be wired around those switches.
And you are right, the gap between that positive lead on the starter and bare frame metal is about an inch in some places. No way to turn that thing without banging the wrench into the frame.
But thanks for pointing that out.
I have an Itasca class a 2000 32V on a Workhorse chassis with the 7.4 L gas engine.
While traveling north on I-287 in NJ my engine appeared to be running out of gas. I would lose power and then it would come back. my gas gauge read 1/2 full and based on my odometer I was sure I had gas. I was able to limp into a service area, got gas and the engine appeared to run fine so I continued on towards home. A little while later, the engine suddenly died and I had to coast to the roadside. The engine would turn over, but not fire. I called Good Sam (thank goodness for their great service).
A mechanic came out and was unable to get it the engine to fire. I had to be towed to his service shop. After some further diagnosing and no results, the mechanic became suspicious of the computer. He had one in the shop and decided to swap with the one In my engine. When he went to unplug my computer,he found that the connections to the computer were not fully plugged. He plugged them in and problem solved!!!
Thank goodness for ani honest repair shop they could have said my computer was bad and charged me big bucks ! I have no idea why or how the compute connections became loose, I had 40,000 + miles on It at that time and over 50,000 now and this is the only time I have had this problem. To finish the story,, it happened late on a Saturday afternoon with he temp in the high 90s.,
Traveling down from St. Pete FL to Sarasota FL, I was with the DW and baby when about 2/3rds of the way there I had a sudden loss of engine power and a sudden increase in vibration. This vibration was enhanced when I stepped on the gas.
Loss of power and major vibration. Not good.
Luckily we were able to get to Campbell RV's service dept and although it was 3:30pm on a Friday, they jumped right into my engine. Great people!
Long story short.....looks like I bent a push rod under the valve cover. This caused Campbell to back off and suggest I go to Sun State International, a Cummins engine specialist.
So, the RV is being towed now.
Monday, they will look at it.
Monday night, I am getting drunk.
Most diesel engine breakdowns are probably fuel delivery problems or elictrical.
Most gas engine breaksowns are overheating including vporlock or electrical.
Biggest cause for breakdown is flat tires.
I like this post.Thanks.
Coach: 2005 Sportscoach Model 401TS 40ft
Engine: CAT 350 HP 860 lb/ft torque
Transmission: 6 sp Allison
Just outside of Spokane WA while crossing over into Idaho all warning lights including check engine light came on. System went into "limp home" mode (my description). There was an exit just ahead and a dealer located at the exit. I pulled off and into the dealer just as the temp hit the red zone. No unusual noise from the engine compartment. When I raised the side panelthere was no belt on the pully. This dealer did not have a service department but did have a mechanic and agreed to let him look at it for me. When he reached up to move the fan, it wobbled all over the place. Verdict, blown fan clutch assembly. Beyond his capability to replace.
Called CoachNet to get towed to the nearest repair facility. After some confusion about the nearest tow operator we were towed to Western Peterbilt in Liberty Lake, WA. Rouse Towing out of Spokane did the towing. Very capable and efficient. Peterbilt was able to determine what parts were needed and get them on order that evening. They had a spot for us to park in that had electric and water. They wanted the coach by 10:00am the next day as the parts were to be in at noon and the mechanic that was to do the work came in at 10:00am. He started the tear down and was ready for the parts when they came in. They had a very nice drivers lounge that had a washer/dryer, tv, shower facilities, etc. The coach was ready by 7:00pm that evening. We stayed over that night and left the next morning.
Tow bill just over $400, all covered by CoachNet.
Repairs were near $1000, all covered by my insurance except for the $200 deductable.
I have nothing but good to say about Western Peterbilt and their people. They treated us well and the prices were fair considering the time required to do the job. They kept the coach clean inside and out. They gave us a good clean place to wait and checked with us periodically to see if we needed anything.
There was some confusion with CoachNet concerning who would tow us at first. They wanted us to wait four hours for a tow truck to come 150 miles until we told them that Rouse was located less than 20 miles away. It seems that they did not have a contract with them and the agent that I was talking to must have been a trainee. Once I got to a supervisor, things got moving in the right direction.
Badeye
* This post was edited 10/26/10 06:38pm by Badeye *
Engine: Cummins 325
Miles: 40,000
Headed for Canada up highway 2 across the UP of Mich. Pulled into a rest area everything running fine, next morning engine did not start quite right. Normal two turns over pops right off. Took 4 or so turns to start. Got out on the highway and could not go over 35 miles per hour. Finally got the coach up to 40. Pulled into a turn off and called my friend Don (diesel mech.) he says check the fuel solenoid, see if is sticking. Went back sprayed it and pried on it (hard to see on that engine) sure enough that did it, soaked it good with WD40. Happened again coming back from cherry fest again sprayed and worked on it with a screw driver. Every thing running smooth headed for home (MN) back in the UP on highway 2 headed west. Stopped at a station to buy some pop and snacks, started it up bang, just like that could not get it up to speed no power. It was late so tuned around and stayed at the station over night, next morning took it to a mech. He would not touch it, didn't work on diesels. I finally went to work on the solenoid with a hammer and screwdriver. Got it working but we did not dare shut it off for the entire trip home 500 miles. Stopped at a Cummings dealer in Green Bay, but they could not give me any help. They said if could be anything. (no help). When I got home took it to Don's and we pulled off the solenoid, it was starting to come apart. Put a new one on, its a hour job. Turned into a 10 hour job. A couple of screw snapped off and we had to pull off everything. WOW. Cummings puts on a screw that has a one way head. You have to try to get it out with a chisel or vise grips.
This is only on my latest coach. I'm not going into the older ones. LOL
ty. The old tires had a mfg. date of Jan. 2002.
Floss and Gary Bham, Al.
I think that the problem may be a non-problem actually but a condition that occurs when you reach the maximum rpm for the engine and the coach shifts to a higher gear to protect the engine. Then the engine and transmission sense a overload condition and immediately shift back to the lower gear and the sequence starts all over again. The solution is to ease off the throttle a bit and keep the rpm just below maximum. You will need to read the tech data on your engine and find out what the max pulling rpm is for your engine. This will be different than the unloaded max rpm such as when you are using your exhaust brake if so equipped. The ATC light is coming on because it senses the same condition as a loss of traction.
The next time this occurs try backing off the throttle a bit and see if it stops the problem.
Badeye
John R Miller
Engine/chassis information would be useful. My Southwind on WorkHorse W22 chassis with Chevy Vortec 81.L has a similar happening, randomly. Generally at speed entire dashboard array resets to key off mode and then before I have time to react the system reboots through the startup sequence (bells, seatbelt warning light etc.) and we continue on down the road. The engine, power steering, brakes appear to be unaffected. Time between happenings is 1,000 to 5,000 miles give or take. We don't even react anymore. Had dash module replaced 4 years back under recall, but it did not resolve this issue. We have chosen to live with it rather than spend hundreds trying to it chase down. It does serve to provide a wakeup call on a long mileage day, sometimes. Last recurrence was within past 1,000 miles. We have 78K miles from new on second set of tires (age and wear combined).
We saw that the bedroll exited out of the rear (we thought). Within 5 miles we found out differently, a portion of it had hung around the drive shaft, taking wires, hydraulic lines with it and the transmission ground itself to bits, bringing a 32,000 lb beast to a screeching halt
We called our Road Hazard outfit, they mulled it over--said call your insurance company (office closed)---we deem it an accident. Law enforcement shows up, helps us put out our flares and cones and said "bye bye", we aren't writing anything up or reporting it, you hit road debris---not an accident.
So glad we knew people in the truck maintenence and towing industry and a kind couple from Alberta, or we would still be sitting there beside the roadway while the 2 insurance entities argued who was going to come get us.
I am sure we have a long claim battle ahead of us, any suggestions from any of you veterans out there???. At least wife and I are safe and sound---thats what counts
Rig: 2003 Revolution 38B
Chassis: Freightliner
Powerplant Cummins 350
Outcome: Uncertain
================================
caravan sales
'02 Southwind 37U towing '05 Chevy Colorado with Blue Ox tow bar and Brake Buddy. 8100 GM/Workhorse Chassis. Retired UAW-GM.
Check your brake light circuit! Had similar problems and it finally (two + years) resolved as a .2 volt (approx) leak to ground in the brake light circuit. It fluctuated enough that sometimes the cruise would work and sometimes not. Had similar issues on current coach as well.
=================================
RV Particulars (Mfg, Type, Model):
Driveline (Engine, Transmission):
Miles:
Model Year:
Break Down Description: (You can add any description of the problem here that you think would help others in understanding the situation and problem.)
Symptoms:
Effect:
Cause:
Outcome:
==================================
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): Cummins 350 ISC / Allison M-3060 / Spartan MM Chassis
Miles: 78,500
Model Year: 2002
Break Down Description: About 3 miles down the road upon departing for a weekend trip, thick white smoke bellowing from engine compartment. Pulled into a shopping center parking lot. Fluid pouring down into ground and trailing behind us.
Symptoms: (Above) Engine was operating fine.
Effect: Hydraulic fluid being throw around engine compartment and on exhaust pipes cause the smoking.
Cause: Cooling Fan Hydraulic Motor Shaft Seal(s) failed causing extreme hydraulic leak.
Outcome: Called Coach Net who arranged to have the rig towed to a nearby service facilty. I had to order a new Hydraulic Motor from Spartan Chassis (Spartan P/N 0700-FF1) and have shipped overnight. Repair facility installed new motor the next day.
Driveline
ummins ISC360Miles: 25,000
Year: 2008
Break Down Description: Engine alternator failure.
Symptoms:Low Voltage warning - alternator not putting out full power
Effect: alternator could not keep up with coach and motor battery demands
Cause: Pilot error I believe. In getting RV ready for next day use the shore power cable came loose and that resulted in sapping the coach batteries pretty hard. The Coach engine alternator put out extreme power to meet the demand and failed after 200 miles of thruway driving.
Outcome: New alternator put in from air cleaner side of engine (not top bedroom cover where it isn't accessible). Shop took alternator to truck alternator specialist and brought back another. Cost was s$280.00 for unit and $740.00 for everything. DON'T LEAVE HOME WITH NEARLY DEAD COACH BATTERIES OR YOUR ALTERNATOR MAY NOT FINISH THE TRIP.
Unless tomorrow has been promised to you, you better get busy today.
Ed Bowler
2006 Presidio
335 hp Cummins ISC
Mileage: 30000 +
Year: 2000
Description of breakdown
Symptom:
While driving back from Boston Ma to Louisiana, we stopped at a Flying gas station in Chattanooga TN. I was filing the tank when I noticed the compartment doors on the slide out were out about 2 inches on the bottom but flush on the top. After filling, I found that the compartment was swinging freely only supported by the attachment to the front of the slide. The back of the four door compartment is supported at the rear by a 1/2 inch bolt on each corner with the top of the bolt welded to the slideout support beam. On the compartment the bolt goes through a bracket with an adjustment nut on the other side. Both bolts had broken at the weld.
Took the toad to Lowes and bought two band straps. Strapped the compartment up in place, not easy, and came home.
2000 Allegro Bay 34' V10 gas
Banks Powerpack
95' Nissan Sentra with Remco lube pump
2004 Honda Pilot
Brake Buddy
Falcon 5250 Towbar
8.2L Chevrolet engine
Workhorse chassis
Fuel pump, water in gas tank, rusty gas tank
low power
Last MH was a gas unit that had been sitting for a few years. Got sold to a dealer and I got a "great deal" on it. Drove fine during the test drive and on the way home, about 75 miles total. Next trip out it started losing power and ultimately wouldn't go faster than 25 mph.
Problem turned out to be rust particles in the gas tank. A LOT of rust particles, resulting from the 3 1/2 gallons of water I siphoned out of the tank. The rust particles would get sucked up to the fuel pump pickup sock (first line filter) and starve it for gas. When I stopped the rust particles would settle away and it would run great for a couple miles.
The solution was to thouroghly clean out and seal the tank since a nationwide search using 3 independent sources couldn't come up with a new tank. I used a couple of pounds of dry wall screws as abrasives and rolled the tank around the yard. You don't shake an 80 gallon tank in your hands like you would a motorcycle tank. Then I rinsed it out with water a couple of times followed by a couple of rinses with acetone.
After it dried it was fairly clean but with all the baffles, there was no way to get all the rust out of it. After doing a bit of research, I used an epoxy sealant from Caswell Plating. It was spendy and a lot of work, but it was a great solution for me.
I don't think I have enough money to have work like this done.
* This post was edited 07/10/11 09:54am by roadhousecharley *
Thanks,
roadhousecharley
I love Walmart!
Not knowing exactly where this goes so my question is we have Good sam emergency road side assistance, first time we used it in 5 years. We were in our POV, not towing and located at Seattle/Tacoma internaional airport. Returned to a dead battery and could not get assistance for a jump for over 3 hours. I would call and they would say we will have somebody to you in 30 minutes but they would not show. This went on 3 times and we finally arranged for and paid for and got the truck started ourselves. Of course, as we are getting it started at 11:45 pm somebody shows up, writes down the vin number, asked me to sign and off they go. I was happy somebody eventully showed but 3+ hours later in the city seems a lot to long to wait. Do others have this kind of poor responce from roadside assistance or did this look like a one time issue.
Don
I've had fairly good luck with Good Sam Roadside Assistance. Used it 3 times. Had to wait an hour once but that was early AM in Northern VA traffic and they woke the guy up to tow my car.
61,000 miles
5.9l Cummins Turbo Diesel pusher.
Bought this unit (our 4th Class A) in August of 2010. On our 3rd trip from Regina, SK to Calgary, AB, I had a "low water" warning for low coolant. I pulled over and inspected everything and found no leaks, topped up the radiator and continued on. Within 100 miles I had the same low coolant warning. Again topped up the radiator and found no leak. When we finally stopped in Calgary and stayed the night, I crawled under the engine and had a good look with a flashlight. I found that the engine block was cracked (behind the turbo) and had been patched with steel epoxy. Someone had patched the block prior to my purchase. The coolant was evaporating as quickly as it leaked which led to no evidence of a leak. The only reason I was never stranded was that because I was in a RV, I carried enough water to top up the rad and continue on.
Long story short, the Cummins 5.9l blocks stamped "53" are flawed and known to crack. If you are buying a unit with the Cummins powerplant, inspect this closey and stay away from anything with this block.
I have since replaced the entire engine with a factory rebuilt #51 block with 300hp injectors and it now runs like a top. It has very good fuel economy (lows of 10.4 MPG, highest 14.2 MPG) and all kinds of power.
Bob
* This post was edited 07/31/11 10:38pm by missscarlet9 *
Livin' the dream!
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): 440-3 / A727
Miles:55,000
Year: 1976
Break Down Description: (You can add any description of the problem here that you think would help others in understanding the situation and problem.)
Symptoms: Won't start after sitting in storage
Effect:
Cause: corrosion on the coil pickup sensor
Outcome: by chance I measured the tolerance in the pickup and by doing so cleaned the corrosion and it fired right up.
Ford F-53 with 210hp V-10
126,000 miles
US Highway 421 between Wilkesboro and Boone NC
Blew a sparkplug - 4th from rear on left bank
Called Good Sam Road Service at 12:28 August 29, 2011
fonecon results:
I clearly told phone rep I needed a shop that could work on a Ford V-10 engine;
Boone Ford claimed to be busy
Good Sam rep said Robert Handy Camping in Wilkesboro could do the service;
At 01:30pm Good Sam Rep said a tow company had been contacted and would arrive within 100 minutes;
Mountain View Towing arrived at 3:00 pm, very professional, towed to Robert Hamby Camping - THEY DON'T DO ANY ENGINE OR CHASSIS SERVICE!
Moved up road to truck stop where Mountain View Tow operator waited while I drove over town looking for a service shop. Couple of leads were dead. Advanced Auto Parts clerk was my savior. First lead declined to service. Second was small home based mechanic who didn't have room in shop, but said if I could get it towed to a Food Lion parking lot near him he would look at it and thought he could fix.
Mountain View Towing had waited while I searched and towed the MH to Food Lion where I received permission from the manager to park it waiting service.
5:30 pm Ronnie (home based mechanic) arrived, found blown plug and left to get plug and coil replacement;
6:15 pm Ronnie returns with parts, replacement plug different type, but apparently authorized replacement, wouldn't tighten; need helicoil, will return in morning to install.
Lessons Learned:
1. I should have called Robert Hamby Camping to verify they could do the service. They claimed Camping World had not contacted them. Apparently they did a "Google" for RV service.
2. Never trust Camping World Road Service to find you a shop capable of doing the repairs needed.
Edit 1: Plugs installed 8 years ago at 42k miles.
I apparently have the "4 thread heads" on my V-10
Plug blew at normal cruise power.
Wes
"A beach house isn't just real estate. It's a state of mind." Pole Sitter in Douglas Adams MOSTLY HARMLESS
PM sent
JohnnyT Moderator
* This post was edited 09/05/11 03:29pm by an administrator/moderator *
Found in a Dometic last fall, solution was a new refrigerator.
Ford E-450 with V-10/Auto Trans
Problem: Engine started missing on return trip from New England in June. Labor Day weekend engine would not start. Diagnosis: Fuel not getting to injectors. Repair: Fuel Pump found to be defective; replaced same.
Coach Net Roadside Service got me a tow but had to wait overnight in rv park due to holiday. Tow arrived early next AM towed me to Knoxville (40mi.) Had to wait another night for new fuel pump to be delivered from parts house. $1200. labor and parts. Coach Net paid $600. tow bill. Very satisfied with overall experience. First major breakdown with my RV.
* This post was edited 09/29/11 10:15pm by noe-place *
Cummins 300 hp/Allison
35000 miles
Problem: ABS light lit, engine seemed low on power.
On way west from Brandon, MB. Towing car, first time with this MH.
Condition worsened and eventually we had to stop. I checked that everything seemed to be normal in battery compartment. All "OK" but did NOT use a multi-meter..
Last year we had similar trouble and eventually the alternator was reconditioned in BC.
By using the generator and jumper cables connecting engine and house batteries we limped to Swift Current, SK. I wasn't too happy about using the cables. Tried about 6-7 places in S.Current but no place could, or perhaps, wanted to find the problem. Most were too busy.
Limped further west to Medicine Hat, Alta. with my wife driving the car.
Same problem, most places too busy. An rv tech who was passing volunteered to find the problem. I told him I suspected the alternator. He found the alternator was not functioning well.
Next day we found a shop, told them to install a new alternator. two hours later we were on our way. Problem solved. Engine had lots of power. Moral...check electrical system before leaving and, for me anyway, never install reconditioned items.
Gordon.
300 hp Cummins
Upon exiting an interstate hiway in Wisconsin, the engine died when pulling up to the stop sign on the off-ramp. It simply would not start. After many attempts and after putting the accelerator to the floor when cranking, it fired and roughly came up to RPM. It ran rough after that so I had both fuel filters changed. That didn't work, it still ran rough, misfiring at lower speeds. I took it to the nearest Freightliner dealer and they diagnosed it at a faulty HEUI (Hydraulic-Electric Unit Injector) or fuel pump. After it was replaced the engine ran fine. However, the Freightliner service dept. contacted Caterpillar and was told that if there are any metal particles found in the old HEUI, all six injectors should be replaced. Since the engine ran ok at cruise speeds, I elected not to do this due to the high cost. We drove it back to Arizona and it ran just fine and appeared to have more power than ever before.
In summary, it appears that Caterpillar installed poor quality HEUI's on 2004 C-7 engines, I learned this from several RV forums. I would be interested in how many of these specific problems with the Cat C-7 are mentioned in this forum topic.
Retired USAF Nav/Flight Ops
Itasca Meridian 34H
330 Caterpillar
2010 Chevy Equinox
Blue Ox and Brake Buddy
Finally I got rid of it.
They finally fixed it in Albuquerque, NM at Wagner Catipillar.
61,000 miles
Purchased motorhome at 58,000 miles.
Two things happened, neither of which caused us to need a tow.
At about 59,000 miles noticed that the radiator side tank was seeping. Decided to do a full cooling system overhaul as preventative maintenance and did radiator, water pump, fan clutch, thermostat, all hoses, ignition tuneup, etc. When the water pump was pulled we found that a chip was broken off of the timing cover causing us to have to replace the timing cover and increasing the price of the work significantly. This could have been caused by poor cooling system maintenance (using tap water or not performing enough coolant changes over the years).
At 61,000 miles a tapping sound got much noisier and was determined to be a leaking exhaust manifold. What actually had occurred was that a piece of the head broke off due to manifold warping on the back driver side manifold. The head needed to be replaced entirely. Very expensive job took a month and a half to get our rig back. The manifold on the other side was cracked the whole way through but wasn't making any noticeable noise. Replaced this manifold too.
Everything *seems* to be running well now though.
Geeky Nomads! travelling in our 1999 Foretravel U320 4200
RV particulars:
Driveline (Engine, Transmission):
Miles:
Year:
Break Down Description: (You can add any description of the problem here that you think would help others in understanding the situation and problem.)
Symptoms:
Effect:
Cause:
Outcome:
* This post was edited 02/05/12 09:34pm by 2inAlabama *
Just DH & DW
A bedroll of some sort flew out the back of some "spring breakers" pickup truck, unfurled itself on the roadway, our choice was to swerve and possibly roll the motorhome do to heavy traffic or run over it dead center. We chose the latter.
We saw that the bedroll exited out of the rear (we thought). Within 5 miles we found out differently, a portion of it had hung around the drive shaft, taking wires, hydraulic lines with it and the transmission ground itself to bits, bringing a 32,000 lb beast to a screeching halt
We called our Road Hazard outfit, they mulled it over--said call your insurance company (office closed)---we deem it an accident. Law enforcement shows up, helps us put out our flares and cones and said "bye bye", we aren't writing anything up or reporting it, you hit road debris---not an accident.
So glad we knew people in the truck maintenence and towing industry and a kind couple from Alberta, or we would still be sitting there beside the roadway while the 2 insurance entities argued who was going to come get us.
I am sure we have a long claim battle ahead of us, any suggestions from any of you veterans out there???. At least wife and I are safe and sound---thats what counts
Rig: 2003 Revolution 38B
Chassis: Freightliner
Powerplant Cummins 350
Outcome: Uncertain
Wow. Who'd have thought it? Suddenly a driveshaft guard doesn't sound silly at all! Neither does making sure you can stop for it soon as you see it. I wish you success in getting this mess sorted out. Best regards.
I would like to give Class A folks a wise tip on 454 cooling as i notice many have cooling problems.
I no longer have my 87 allegro 454 but it could run hotter than i liked climbing Long grades 205+ at altitude pullung a car and would never give up pulling in 3rd gear. Maybe 35 but never give up. I never want an older 454 running over 200 degrees.
My solution that REALLY works is.....i built a water sprayer system to spray water on the rad. and trans cooler at the push of a button on the dash......It dropped the eng temp by 25 degrees almost instantly. i now had the confidence i needed that i would never overheat again. A 454 installation because of being burned up from overheating would cost 5 to 10 thousand...OR junk your Class A.
Common parts-- yard sprayer nozzels and 4 port manifold mounted in front of the Rad, from wallmart garden. Plastic tubing running back to the Rv main tank , and a Rv water pump, appropriate wiring.
Little investment.....Great insurance.
Popeye766 USN RET.
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): Cummins 5.9, Allison 6sp
Miles: 109000
Year: 1994
Break Down Description: warning read out on dash "Do not shift"
Symptoms: no go drifted to roadside
Effect: nonfunctional electronic transmission limped back to Harlingen, Texas on house batteries charged by the generator. Apparently, an Allison MD 3060 transmission will not function without electrical power. Who knew?
Cause: alternator failure followed by insufficient power in the battery to run the transmission.
Outcome: replaced alternator next day, good to go.
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): Cummins 8.3ISC/Allison MH3000 Miles: 58,000
Year: 2003
Break Down Description: Check Engine Light, Loss of Power
Heading south on I25 in Nov/11 and check engine light came on resulting in a drop in power but engine did not die. Pulled over to side and found all pressure/temps normal. Shut off engine, check fluids & found coolant low in the plastic overflow tank. topped up coolant, started engine and carried on down the road. On the way north in March just out of Phoenix problem occured again. Pres/Temp all normal. Fluid levels good.
Had Cummins check ($200) and they could not find any faults. Diagnosis: Must be an electrical fault. Long story short, Removed, cleaned every chassis electrical I could find & reassembled with dielectric grease. Have not had a problem since. Touch wood..
One thing I found out is the Low Coolant Sensor does not have its own dedicated light and will show up as a Check Engine Fault.
The sensor is loacted on the "Flow" side of the expansion tank and I believe an intermitent fault may be happening due to a change in speed/load if there is a rush of fluid into the tank. It is just enough to "Bump" the system and cause a fault. Shutdown & re-start clears it until next time.
Ya, I know. Too much information, I'll quit now. Happy Trails!!
Dennis & Carol
2003 Dutchstar 40' 3 Slides, 8.3L ISC W/banks Kit 465HP,
Spartan Chassis
2013 Honda CRV Toad
Most diesel engine breakdowns are probably fuel delivery problems or elictrical.
Most gas engine breaksowns are overheating including vporlock or electrical.
Biggest cause for breakdown is flat tires.
The Lippert leveling unit never worked right from the start
Dealership looked at it twice and pronounced " nothing wrong "
It kept displaying low voltage , till it finally went belly up 1600 miles from home base .
A investigation reveled it had a old oil seal in it that let hydrolic fluid into the motor , more and more till it finally shorted out .
Lippert was great and sent me a new motor and the new type oil seal . After a 1 hour remove and install it runs fine .
2011 Newmar - VENTANA -- with COMFORT DRIVE
2011 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Sahara
Blue Ox Aventa LX Tow bar w/ Roadmaster adapters
AirForce One brake system
Life Member GOOD SAM Club
FMCA Member
If your not the lead dog
the view never changes
2010 Gulf Stream Caribbean
The Lippert leveling unit never worked right from the start
Dealership looked at it twice and pronounced " nothing wrong "
It kept displaying low voltage , till it finally went belly up 1600 miles from home base .
A investigation reveled it had a old oil seal in it that let hydrolic fluid into the motor , more and more till it finally shorted out .
Lippert was great and sent me a new motor and the new type oil seal . After a 1 hour remove and install it runs fine .
Keep an eye on it I am on my 3rd one same issue fluid in motor could see it dripping out of end cap on motor
2009 Challenger
2010 Gulf Stream Caribbean
The Lippert leveling unit never worked right from the start
Dealership looked at it twice and pronounced " nothing wrong "
It kept displaying low voltage , till it finally went belly up 1600 miles from home base .
A investigation reveled it had a old oil seal in it that let hydrolic fluid into the motor , more and more till it finally shorted out .
Lippert was great and sent me a new motor and the new type oil seal . After a 1 hour remove and install it runs fine .
Keep an eye on it I am on my 3rd one. Same issue fluid in motor I could see it dripping from end cap
on the Ford F53 V10 chassis
around 6800 miles
Driving back to San Diego from Sequoia NP. Pulled into the Bakersfield Costco to fill up. After filling, wouldn't start. No click, crank, or any other indication that I had turned the key to the start position, although all the lights came on as normal. Batteries were fully charged as expected after driving for 4 hours. After calling Ford roadside assistance, (of course), the MH started as normal. I thought it was pilot error. We drove to Bakersfield RV Resort to spend the night (wonderful place, BTW) and after registration, wouldn't start again, so I couldn't get to my space. Called Ford again and was towed to the Ford dealer. After some time, they replaced the starter motor/solenoid. They said the exhaust pipe was too close to the starter motor and caused overheating and failure of the motor. The time from the second call to Ford roadside assistance until I was back to the resort was around 4 hours, and of course, there was no charge. After the repair, the service manager told be he could see there being a recall for this issue for 2011 F53 chassis to install a heat shield.
So, if you're in the middle of nowhere and experience this problem, whack the starter motor with the handle of a hammer while someone turns the key for a temporary fix, then replace the starter motor under warranty.
Tony Tait
2011 Winnebago Adventurer 32H
Pulling 2002 Jeep Liberty
F53 chassis - 460 w/ overdrive
111K miles
Trans failure - burnt the oil
This past week going south on I5 started up the grapevine after gasing up in Bakersfield.
Long slow pull, engine got to the top of the "normal" range. A short stop and some water spray got it cool enough to continue.
I didn't think about the trans baking and continued for a bit (slower with more rpms) until is started to slip. It was dumping fluid fast. Leak appears to be from the front main seal.
Got towed, no fluid in trans. Added 6 quarts to test it, seemed to work with no leaks, but agreed with shop to drop the pan for a look see....what are those chunks?
Anyway, used a rental to get home and the new trans will be installed this week.
I was thinking a sprayer using a windshield washer tank and pump would work nicely.
Rob
30,000 miles
Problem - gearshifter was free moving and would not shift from Drive.
Parked a month at in-laws. Moved it 100 feet to use it for Labor Day weekend and when I went to put it in park, the gearshift was loose and not moving MH into any gear except Drive. Put on parking brake, chocked the tires and had wife put foot on brake peddle. Found the shifting cable in free play due to the Cable sheath coming out of retainer bracket due to missing retainer clamp. Repaired with new fabricated clamp. This is the first bracket for the cable from the side of the transmission. Glad it was something easy. No idea what the missing retainer was made of.
Dave & Vicki Tedesco
2004 Itasca Meridian 36G
2005 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited
2008 Escape Hybrid
Brake Buddy
Falcon Tow Bar
35,900 miles
Problem- Chassis battery disconnect solenoid failed.
Immediate loss of all power, lights, engine, power steering and braking while on interstate highway on-ramp. Shortly after the break-down, a tractor-trialer sideswiped cargo trailer and RV, causing considerable damage to RV rear, bedroom slide and awning. Had Hurricane towed to local RV, where Thor tech support advised them to jumper around the solenoid to get me back on the road. Cut the remains of the awning off the coach. Back on the road, the coach bounced horribly due to bent rims.
Thor says they will replace the control center that houses the disconnect solenoid. Thinking seriously about jumping around the solenoid anyway. If one can fail, so can its replacement.
Luckily no loss of life. I can't imaging what could have happened if it had failed a minute or two later at interstate speeds in heavy traffic, since the failed solenoid LEFT ME WITH NO LIGHTS TO WARN ANYONE...
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): Cummins ISX 525HP, Allison 6 speed
Miles: 65K
Year: 2003
Break Down Description: Road debris was deflected off the rear tires towards the radiator and was deflected into the radiator by the rotating cooling fans.
Symptoms: Coolant release (steam), as seen in the driver's side mirror
Effect: Overheated engine, shutdown on mountain summit.
Cause: Punctured radiator core.
New rad: $6K
Removal and Replacement: $2K
Breakdown rescue/tow: $1K
Additional travel costs & unplanned expenses: $2K
$11 thousand dollars later, because a piece of tire rubber from the road deflected up off the road and hit the cooling fanand was unfortunately deflected into the rad.
Solution: Install expanded sheet metal covers over the fans. Engine cooling isn't compromised and the radiator is fully protected. IMHO this problem is particularly significant for those coaches with tag axels. Single axle coaches dont have the same open chamber where the deflection and damage can occur.
Outcome: Serious, expensive Lesson Learned. Im told by the rad and service shops......this is a common mode of failure for many coach owners...Malcolm
Malcolm & Wendy Hepburn
2003 Monaco Signature - 45' Commander TS
Cummins ISX 525HP - 6 Speed Allison
Chevy HHR-SS - Demco Towbar/BlueOx Patriot Brake
Good Sam would have picked up the tow, my insurance would have paid for the motel if it happened at a distance from home, road hazard insurance should have kicked in for damages to engine.
Since I run lots of fuel from the aux tank and the required prefilter #2 that protects the pump is small, I have a medium sized filter #3 (yes, I carry a spare #3 filter) located between the aux tank and prefilter #2.
The engine began to miss as though it was being starved for fuel. It was starved when switched to either tank, which made me think it was in the main filter #1. I limped to my destination and replaced main filter #1. I found water in that filter as well as debris making me think the problem was solved.
The next trip out, it starved on only the aux tank. I replaced the medium filter #3. That seemed to fix it for 200 miles.
The next trip out the electric fuel valve failed. It wouldn't switch between tanks. I limped to a gas station to fill that tank and I replaced that valve at my destination. After 400 miles it began to hesitate again and died at a toll booth, but started up and I was able to limp home by repeatedly switching between tanks.
There was one last filter #4 - a tiny final one in the carburetor (yes, I also carry spare for #4 in my kit). It looked fine, but I couldn't blow through it, so I replaced filter #4. It's run fine for the next 500 miles, knock on wood.
It's hard to say which filter or valve was the problem. I know the valve was bad and that filter #4 was bad, but regardless of the problem, "Carry spares and build redundant systems" is my motto. None of the failures stopped any of the trips, but the DW does get a bit nervous when we see a series of issues like that.
In the Boonies!
Can hardly beleive this happened with only 42000 miles. Oh well happy trails
* This post was edited 03/24/13 11:55am by Jaybird *
32' Fleetwood Southwind, Triton V-10 "Gerald FORD",
Chebby HHR with Stowmaster
I am happy you were able to get help.
Got back from trip to northern California. First trip with new to us RV and had a blast. Parked in driveway and will leave for next trip in two weeks. Couple days out from trip and start engine, air up and get everything ready. As I walk out of coach...man that puddle underneath the engine couldn't be diesel could it. Lift Fuel Pump gasket leaking even when shut down. Can't get old style gasket so a new lift fuel pump is installed and everything is right again. So the one story I have is how my new to me RV stranded us a little before the trip in my side yard driveway! Not a bad lick if you ask me!
Was on a trip into the mountains and lost some engine power, I have a boost gauge and exhaust pyro. gauge installed and notice exhaust temps were really high. Found the bolt that hold the turbo together had backed out and some had broke off causing the halves to split. I had replace the turbo. I told a friend who has the same year and model about my breakdown, He checked his and noticed the same problem, the bolts were loose holding the turbo together.
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): Cat C7, Allison 6spd
Miles: 26,000
Year:2006
Break Down Description: I had my first breakdown the 2nd day I owned my motorhome. Fortunately I noticed it I the driveway before I started my vacation. One of the air suspension lines was punctured.
Symptoms: The sound of leaking air and a low air warning buzzer anytime the key was turned on
Effect: Nothing really, the compressor created more air than what was leaking out, but it was working harder than it should and could have gotten worse
Cause: Unknown. The air line had a small hole in it and appeared to melted around it a little, but was on the inside of a bundle of several lines and inside the frame rail. I'm guessing it was damaged when the coach was being built but didn't start leaking until recently.
Outcome: Cut out a small piece of the air line and repaired with a union fitting. Total cost $62, but only because I decided to buy a kit with several fittings and the tool to cut the hoses properly.
I went through some of the posts in here, but never found any report about it like the first post had mentioned. Was there ever one put together? Anyone know where I can find it?
Use the shift lever or down arrow if Allison to lock the transmission in the lower gear. "Hunting" hurts all transmissions.
Of course, the other issue is that running at max RPM uses a lot of fuel.
Brett Wolfe
1997 Safari Sahara 3540
EX: 1993 Foretravel 36' U-240
FMCA Forum: www.community.fmca.com/index
Diesel RV Club:http://www.dieselrvclub.org/
While traveling thru Delaware in November, as I pulled up to a traffic light the engine stumbled and quit. The normal dash lights were all out, nothing associated with the chassis seemed to have power. The ignition key, and all gauges dead. After being towed off the road to a rest area, I began trying to determine the cause of the situation. First I checked the battery's both house and chassis. Both battery' banks we're showing more than 12.6 volts. Checked for loose cables or any obvious problems. Tried the auxiliary start relay to see if that would power the starter, no such luck. Checked the front automotive circuit breakers and fuzes, and the buss that powers them, no power?
Called the Freightliner 24/7 Customer Service (800) 385-4357, and described my problem. Much to my surprise the Freightliner tech was extremely knowledgeable. He walked me through the diagnostics and we determined that the culprit had to be the main chassis battery 135 Amp circuit breaker. The FL tech described in detail exactly where the breaker was located and how to bypass it to determine if it was bad. The breaker is located on the drivers side behind the rear wheel attached to a flange below the rail. Not to be confused with a similar breaker assembly on the passenger side in the same location which is for the engine intake air starting aide. The test of the breaker revealed it was ok, but in the process I noticed that one of the. Wires attached to it seemed to be loose and arked as I moved it around. Simultaneously a relay chattered and the dash powered up. I cleaned and tightened the connections, the relay held and everything powered up. Engine started ect.
The location of both of these breakers is below the rails and may be in or near the road debris stream when the vehicle is moving. It is likely that water/moisture is sprayed on these assemblies when driving in the rain. Put them on you check list. Also recommend that you carry a spare, as the are not found in local auto stores. You will have to get them from FL parts. According to FL to get going until you can replace the part, you can simply disconnect the battery and connect both circuit breaker leads together on one terminal reconnect the battery as a temporary measure without harm.
On and Off Again Full Timer, Workamper, 43+ years of camping experience, 21+ years towing 5'ers.
New Toy, Winny, Journey WKP32T, Cummins ISB 275 HP, Allison 2000, 5 speed Auto, towing 2012 Nisson Xterra 4X4 Auto with drive shaft disconnect!
Winnibago, Journey 2002, 34' Cummins ISB 275hp, Allison 2000, Freightliner Chassis.
Put them on you check list. Also recommend that you carry a spare, as the are not found in local auto stores. You will have to get them from FL parts. According to FL to get going until you can replace the part, you can simply disconnect the battery and connect both circuit breaker leads together on one terminal reconnect the battery as a temporary measure without harm.
Gypsy1, thanks for the really good info! However, I would like to add that before you bypass that breaker to get going, old make sure it wasn't actually doing its job correctly in the first place. Otherwise one could end up in a real world of hurt.
Jeff
Jeff
Retired AF, retired contractor, really retired!
2007 Winnebago Journey 34H 350hp Cat
2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee Toad
Thankfully for us, a young trucker came over to see what our problem was. He climbed under, found a bolt in his gear, straightened the bracket and put everything back on so we could travel to our next stop.
I ordered a new set of brackets and bushings and we had a mobile repair service install them.
Just a note for everyone that you might want to check those bolts. The repair guy said that this sometimes happens to a series of chassis when the torque is set wrong and is not changed for an entire run of chassis. They eventually catch it and change the torque back to what it should have been, but those that were not tightened properly all have a problem.
This should be a recall
Triton V-10
I just bought the rig, first time having one with leveling jacks, just had to try them out. Parked in the BMV parking lot which was unlevel , I was told that it was automatic so I tried it out followed directions and nothing happened, manually leveled it all jacks worked. Went to lower it dropped like a rock, except the driver side rear. Raised the rig again and lowered the left rear came 2/3 back up will not go up any farther. Has rained ever since and not been able to work on it. Where would be a good place to start?
I am looking for a RV blog? Do you know any informative blog to live in RV lifestyle? I have one - http://livingrvlifestyle.wordpress.com/. If you know better than this blog, then please share.
Thank you!
Hello members,
I am looking for a RV blog? Do you know any informative blog to live in RV lifestyle? I have one - http://livingrvlifestyle.wordpress.com/. If you know better than this blog, then please share.
Thank you!
Welcome to the forum. I think you pressed the wrong key or something, this thread is for tales of breakdowns with a specific format. I expect the moderator will come along and move it to an appropriate thread.
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): 1995 p30 chassis with 454 Engine
Miles: 42000
Year: 1996
Break Down Description: Oil pressure problem
Symptoms: Driving above 50 mph the oil pressure drops to zero.
Effect: Forced to drive slower than normal taking an extra day.
Cause: Oil pump pickup came loose from oil pump.
Outcome: Picked up the rv in San Antonio and drove to Columbia Mo. with this problem. Changed the oil en route and added an oil thickener in an attempt to boost oil pressure. In service center in Columbia had the oil pan dropped and found the oil pick up at the bottom of the pan. New oil pump and pickup and problem fixed.
Miles:48k
Year: 1998
Break Down Description #1: Loss of chassis electrical power leaving gas station
Symptoms: none
Effect: no power, autopark brake engaged
Cause: failed battery disconnect switch
Outcome: towed to repair facility, however, I bypassed the switch before the repair facility opened and regained power. Cancel northeast trip and started to return home b/c of the possibility of breakdown #2. Drove 300 miles before we experienced ...
Break down description #2: autopark brake engaged while in construction zone - not moving at the time
Symtoms: autopark light would stay on longer than normal, then would not go out
Effect: park brake engaged, rv would not move.
Cause: blown seal on autopark brake actuator
Outcome: Added transmission fluid to autopark brake to move to shoulder, had rv towed to MIL house 32 miles away. Disabled autopark brake system and drove almost 400 miles to get home.
Thanks
Driveline: Chevy 7.4L, Allison AT542 (P12 chassis)
Miles:48k
Year: 1998
Break Down Description #1: Loss of chassis electrical power leaving gas station
Symptoms: none
Effect: no power, autopark brake engaged
Cause: failed battery disconnect switch
Outcome: towed to repair facility, however, I bypassed the switch before the repair facility opened and regained power. Cancel northeast trip and started to return home b/c of the possibility of breakdown #2. Drove 300 miles before we experienced ...
Break down description #2: autopark brake engaged while in construction zone - not moving at the time
Symtoms: autopark light would stay on longer than normal, then would not go out
Effect: park brake engaged, rv would not move.
Cause: blown seal on autopark brake actuator
Outcome: Added transmission fluid to autopark brake to move to shoulder, had rv towed to MIL house 32 miles away. Disabled autopark brake system and drove almost 400 miles to get home.
You should not have to worry a both the autopark brake. It was used on GM chassis.
I have a 2000 PA Ford F 53, please enlighten me on what the failed parts are and where they are located?
Thanks
Driveline: Chevy 7.4L, Allison AT542 (P12 chassis)
Miles:48k
Year: 1998
Break Down Description #1: Loss of chassis electrical power leaving gas station
Symptoms: none
Effect: no power, autopark brake engaged
Cause: failed battery disconnect switch
Outcome: towed to repair facility, however, I bypassed the switch before the repair facility opened and regained power. Cancel northeast trip and started to return home b/c of the possibility of breakdown #2. Drove 300 miles before we experienced ...
Break down description #2: autopark brake engaged while in construction zone - not moving at the time
Symtoms: autopark light would stay on longer than normal, then would not go out
Effect: park brake engaged, rv would not move.
Cause: blown seal on autopark brake actuator
Outcome: Added transmission fluid to autopark brake to move to shoulder, had rv towed to MIL house 32 miles away. Disabled autopark brake system and drove almost 400 miles to get home.
the problem or where the wires from the switch go?
Thanks
The chassis battery disconnect, also know as the salesman switch, failed without warning. Apparently, it is not an unusual event. After reading a few forum posts, I knew that was my problem ( after checking the battery). On my PA, it is located behind the plastic 12v fuse box in the engine compartment. On mine, the only thing I see of that disconnect are the two cable connections at the bottom. Had a really hard time identifying it. I had to use the lower fuse box wiring diagram to identify it by a wire connecting to it. I really didn't use the disconnect so, like some others, I may not replace it. I do not like the idea of that one failure shutting down the entire rv. Thank God I was not rolling down the interstate when it happened. Right now, both leads are on the switched side, effectively bypassing the switch. There is also a switch for the coach battery as well. You really need to take the time to find both of the disconnects. Trust me, you don't want be looking for them after either one has failed.
You should not have to worry a both the autopark brake. It was used on GM chassis.
I have a 2000 PA Ford F 53, please enlighten me on what the failed parts are and where they are located?
Thanks
Driveline: Chevy 7.4L, Allison AT542 (P12 chassis)
Miles:48k
Year: 1998
Break Down Description #1: Loss of chassis electrical power leaving gas station
Symptoms: none
Effect: no power, autopark brake engaged
Cause: failed battery disconnect switch
Outcome: towed to repair facility, however, I bypassed the switch before the repair facility opened and regained power. Cancel northeast trip and started to return home b/c of the possibility of breakdown #2. Drove 300 miles before we experienced ...
Break down description #2: autopark brake engaged while in construction zone - not moving at the time
Symtoms: autopark light would stay on longer than normal, then would not go out
Effect: park brake engaged, rv would not move.
Cause: blown seal on autopark brake actuator
Outcome: Added transmission fluid to autopark brake to move to shoulder, had rv towed to MIL house 32 miles away. Disabled autopark brake system and drove almost 400 miles to get home.
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